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2017 Costume Designers Guild Awards Winners and Red Carpet

22 Feb

Celebrating all things costume design at the 19th annual Costume Designers Guild Awards last night in LA at the Beverly Hilton with accolades getting handed out to the best in television, film and short form.

These awards are split into contemporary, fantasy and period, which means that a wide range of work is acknowledged as opposed to say the Academy Awards which tends to lean towards the more period costuming when it comes to which projects are nominated.

The award season juggernaut that is La La Land is one of the rare non-period contenders – it isn’t always period as Jenny Beavan won for Mad Max last year – and it also won last night. And for fantasy it was all about Doctor Strange.

Two of my favorite overall contenders this award season are Hidden Figures and Jackie; both were in the period category and while Madeline Fontaine recently won the BAFTA for her incredible work on Jackie it was Renee Ehrlich Kalfus who was honored by the Costume Designers Guild for her take on the early 1960s.

On the TV side there were some repeat winners with Game of Thrones and American Horror Story taking home the fantasy and contemporary accolades. The Crown’s debut season receiving the period award and the work on all three of these projects is incredible.

The red carpet was also awash with fabulous outfits from designers and those there to celebrate with them. This included some of the actors they dress on a daily basis and I want to take a moment to shine the sartorial light on both.michele-claptonThis is now the third win for Michele Clapton and Game of Thrones (sharing this award with April Ferry this year) as this show continues to dominate all things fantasy. Clapton was behind the incredible Cersei revenge ensemble and she will be returning to Westeros full time this season. This means she has to depart her other winning project and Clapton also won for The Crown last night; I particularly love all things Margaret on The Crown.

Clapton’s geometric patterned gown is a big departure from either GoT or The Crown, but there is a hint of Daenerys with her choice of choker. Plus those all important pockets tick all those boxes.hala-bahmetHala Bahmet is currently working on This is Us and she is responsible for making me want to dress like Mandy Moore in the late ’70s/early ’80s. Here she is giving great black frock and accessories.helen-huang-and-lou-eyrichThis is now Lou Eyrich’s fourth win for American Horror Story and this year she shares this with Helen Huang. I don’t always make it through a whole season of AHS (I’ve only seen Coven and Hotel in their entirety), but the costuming is always next level. As Ryan Murphy’s main costume collaborator it is no surprise to see Eyrich working on Feud and the promo shots from this mini-series are already making me drool all over the keyboard in anticipation.

Eyrich delivers on the dramatic here in a fabulous green ladysuit, oversized glasses and earrings, whereas Helen Huang is going more classic all in black. ane-crabtree-and-jimmi-simpsonAne Crabtree looks like a host from the future in a Westworld park that has yet to be made and I love the high collar detail coupled with the texture and pattern of this frock. And Jimmi Simpson has left the hat at home, but scrubs up well.lily-collinsAt first I thought this was Valentino, but instead it is Alexander McQueen and it is just as intricately beautiful on Lily Collins.amy-landeckerAmy Landecker in another fabulous ladysuit and she injects even more color by pairing it with yellow pumps. Love this entire ensemble.matt-bomerHello, handsome. Matt Bomer serving up a classic look in a white tuxedo jacket as he presents the Lacoste Spotlight Award to his Last Tycoon co-star Lily Collins.mandy-moore-cdgaHost Mandy Moore in red Jenny Packham and also as the human version of the ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ kaomoji.

On my way to host #cdgas. Red-y to go 💃🏻.

A post shared by Mandy Moore (@mandymooremm) on

The dress looks really great in this posing in the hotel Instagram shot.octavia-spencer-renee-ehrlich-kalfus-jane-fondaOctavia Spencer with her Hidden Figures costume designer Renee Ehrlich Kalfus and among the many things I was raving about when I came out of this movie was the costume design and this win pleases me immensely.

The composition of this shot is great with Jane Fonda looking on and the image from Hidden Figures showcasing this costume excellence in celebratory poses.

More from the classic black attire category from both Octavia Spencer and Renee Ehrlich Kalfus. mamie-gummer-and-meryl-streepMeryl Streep was presented with the Distinguished Collaborator Award and she wore hot pink Valentino to accept this honor. Daughter Mamie Gummer’s short blonde messy bob and glasses is everything I want right now.lily-tomlin-and-jane-fondaJane Fonda not only delivers on dramatic shoulder in Versace, but she is also serving dramatic face with co-star Lily Tomlin. This photo makes me so happy.

Here is the full list of winners and nominees.

CONTEMPORARY TELEVISION SERIES

American Horror Story: Roanoke – Lou Eyrich, Helen Huang – WINNER 
Empire – Paolo Nieddu
Grace & Frankie – Allyson B. Fanger
House of Cards – Johanna Argan, Kemal Harris
Transparent – Marie Schley

PERIOD TELEVISION SERIES

The Crown – Michele Clapton – WINNER
Penny Dreadful – Gabriella Pescucci
Stranger Things, Series – Kimberly Adams, Malgosia Turzanska
Westworld, Pilot – Trish Summerville
Westworld, Series – Ane Crabtree

FANTASY TELEVISION SERIES

Game of Thrones – Michele Clapton, April Ferry – WINNER
The Man in the High Castle – J.R. Hawbaker
Once Upon a Time – Eduardo Castro
Sleepy Hollow – Mairi Chisholm
The Walking Dead – Eulyn C. Womble

CONTEMPORARY FILM

Absolutely Fabulous: The Movie – Rebecca Hale
Captain Fantastic – Courtney Hoffman
La La Land – Mary Zophres – WINNER
Lion – Cappi Ireland
Nocturnal Animals – Arianne Phillips

PERIOD FILM

The Dressmaker– Marion Boyce, Margot Wilson
Florence Foster Jenkins – Consolata Boyle
Hail, Caesar! – Mary Zophres
Hidden Figures – Renee Ehrlich Kalfus – WINNER
Jackie – Madeline Fontaine

FANTASY FILM

Doctor Strange – Alexandra Byrne – WINNER 
Fantastic Beasts and Where to Find Them – Colleen Atwood
Kubo and the Two Strings – Deborah Cook
Miss Peregrine’s Home for Peculiar Children – Colleen Atwood
Rogue One: A Star Wars Story – David Crossman, Glyn Dillion

SHORT FORM

Beyoncé: “Hold Up” – B. Åkerlund
Dos Equis: “The Most Interesting Man in the World – Mission to Mars” – Julie Vogel
Dos Equis: “The New Most Interesting Man in the World Traverses the Sand and the Serengeti” – Liz Botes
H&M: “Come Together” featuring Adrien Brody, directed by Wes Anderson – Milena Canonero
Pepsi: “Momotaro” Episode Four, featuring Jude Law — Ami Goodheart – WINNER

Guild Honors 

Distinguished Collaborator Award: Meryl Streep
Lacoste Spotlight Award: Lily Collins
Career Achievement Award: Jeffrey Kurland
Distinguished Service Award: Lois DeArmond
Hall of Fame: Ret Turner

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2016 Emmy Nominations Quick Take – Costumes (Updated with Winners)

14 Jul

This intro is usually where I would complain about the lack of nominations for The Americans, but this is an Emmy miracle as Keri Russell, Matthew Rhys and the show all received nods today and I maybe blacked out after this so I’m catching up on everything else still.

It wouldn’t be the Emmys without some grumbles and only about half of my wish list made the cut – no Leftovers, Rachel Bloom, Aya Cash and more – but I am so surprised/amazed/happy about The Americans finally breaking through in its forth season that it somehow softens the blow of the other snubs.OutlanderI’m here not to talk acting nominations, instead I want to take a quick look at the costume design nominees. There are three different categories for costume; contemporary, period/fantasy and variety/non-fiction/reality. Specific episodes are chosen to submit and some of my favorite costume moments from this year are featured including the incredible red gown designed by Terry Dresbach for Claire Fraser to wear to the fanciest of fancy parties on Outlander, the jaw dropping revenge/mourning/coronation outfits as worn by Cersei in the Game of Thrones season finale, everyone in white at the wedding that turned disaster on Transparent and Lady Gaga’s stunning American Horror Story purple number.

As with every category there are some notable omissions including Katie Irish taking us further into the 80s on The Americans with Elizabeth’s cover Patty, all the many covering up coats and the Princess Di inspired maternity wear. The Knick picked up some technical nominations, but I am disappointed this isn’t one of them.

In the contemporary category I am thrilled to see Daniel Lawson recognized for his Good Wife costumes particularly after this one of my snubs from last year. As with last year I am sad to see some of the bold wardrobes from comedy not among the nominees with Salvador Perez for The Mindy Project and Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt’s Tina Nigro missing the cut. Girls had a stunning season and for Marnie’s red dress alone I would have loved to see Jenn Rogien on here.

The full list of costume design nominations are here and congratulations to all on this list!

The Good Wife 7.22 Alicia and Diane

OUTSTANDING COSTUMES FOR A CONTEMPORARY SERIES, LIMITED SERIES OR MOVIE

Winner! American Horror Story: Hotel, “Chutes and Ladders” – Lou Eyrich, Helen Huang, Marisa Aboitiz

Empire, “Past is Prologue” – Paolo Nieddu, Jennifer Salim, Mary Lane

The Good Wife, “End” – Daniel Lawson, David Brooks, Daniele Hollywood, Angel Peart

Grace and Frankie, “The Party” – Allyson B. Fanger, Lori DeLapp

Transparent, “Kina Hora” – Marie Schley, Mark A. Summers

Cersei

OUTSTANDING COSTUMES FOR A PERIOD/FANTASY SERIES, LIMITED SERIES OR MOVIE

Downton Abbey, “Episode 8” – Anna Mary Scott Robbins, Michael Weldon, Kathryn Tart

Winner! Game of Thrones, “The Winds of Winter” –  Michele Clapton, Chloe Aubry, Sheena Wichary

Outlander, “Not in Scotland Anymore” – Terry Dresbach, Elle Wilson, Nadine Powell, Anna Lau

The People v O.J. Simpson: American Crime Story, “Marcia, Marcia, Marcia” – Hala Bahmet, Marina Ray, Elinor Bardach

Roots, “Night One” – Ruth E. Carter, Diane Cilliers, Meagan ‘Bijou’ Coates

GREASE: LIVE: (L-R) Julianne Hough and Aaron Tveit rehearse for GREASE: LIVE airing LIVE Sunday, Jan. 31, 2016 (7:00-10:00 PM ET live/PT tape-delayed), on FOX. © 2016 Fox Broadcasting CO. Cr: Kevin Estrada/FOXOUTSTANDING COSTUMES FOR A VARIETY, NONFICTION OR REALITY PROGRAM

Dancing with the Stars, “Disney Night” – Daniela Gschwendtner, Steven Lee, Polina Roytman, Karina Torrico, Howard Sussman

Grease: Live -William Ivey Long, Paul Spadone, Nanrose Buchman, Gail Fitzgibbons, Tom Beall

RuPaul’s Drag Race, “Keeping it 100!” – Zaldy Goco

Saturday Night Live, Host Ryan Gosling – Tom Broecker, Eric Justian

Winner! The Wiz Live! Paul Tazewell, Rachel Attridge, Rory Powers

 

For all Emmy nominations head here and excuse me while I go celebrate The Americans finally breaking into the main categories

The Americans 4.02 “Pastor Tim” Review: “You Were Almost Free”

24 Mar

Saying you’re fine and actually being fine are two very different things and quite often when we are asked “Are you alright?” it doesn’t matter if the answer is actually yes and the polite thing to reply in the affirmative. When this question is posed by someone close to us the same brush off response is sometimes still the one we reach for and in the season 4 premiere of The Americans Philip insisted he was fine on each occasion Elizabeth asked.

Elizabeth accepted this as a suitable answer rather than pushing further despite it being clear that something was up; while they are far more solid than when we met them four years ago their strength as a couple does not come from spilling their emotional guts all over the place. The confrontation with Stan forces Philip’s hand and it is a big week for confessions as Philip finally comes up with an answer to Elizabeth’s checking in questions that goes beyond the waving off with a hand deflection.The Americans 4.02 the jenningsIt doesn’t all come pouring out because this is not who Elizabeth and Philip are; instead a series of sighs punctuate the hard to get our words as Philip struggles to explain just what he has been doing and why he has been doing it. In a way it is like he is admitting to an affair as this is an activity he has done in secret and while Elizabeth was out of the country. The ‘feeling’ that Philip got last week which caused him to call off their original meeting with William clearly bothered Elizabeth as she asks if EST is the kind of thing that teaches this. It isn’t and she seems more open to what it is after he confirms that. When she asks if it is something he would like her to go to he looks genuinely surprised and happy by her willingness here. I don’t think Elizabeth would be very receptive to the actual process of EST – now I really want to see her attend a seminar – and yet this offer of potential attendance is a big step.

Sandy Beeman was Team Tell Elizabeth as a way to really benefit from the seminars and Martha also championed the idea of sharing as a way to strengthen a relationship (if only she knew). The experience Philip has been fixating on and one we saw in flashback form last week is something he sees as a defining moment in who he is now and he could only share the very edited version of what happened with both women (and the EST class). With Elizabeth he can spill the whole thing and yet she is the one he finds it the hardest to talk to about this stuff. After the handover goes “pretty bad” it gives Philip the ideal time to unburden his soul and reveal the childhood memory which has been plaguing his recent thoughts. What this also does is serve as a good lesson in what EST does; it helps deal with painful memories, but it requires a confrontation of those experiences rather than avoiding them.

It isn’t surprising to see Elizabeth sympathize with Philip over this incident and she thinks it is good that he stood up for himself; there is no judgement that it went as far as it did. The reveal that he was 10 when he did it is instead met sadness that something this brutal happened to him at a young age, but Elizabeth is not surprised nor horrified. Instead she reaches out her hand to him and this marriage hits another stage of intimacy and shedding of layers. I’m not sure how good it will be for them to completely unpack everything they have done, but therapy of some kind is required to heal their fractured souls.The Americans 4.02 ElizabethAdverse side effects from conversations like this could include nightmares and Elizabeth dreams of the Pastor Tim murder plan and Paige with a blast from her own past. It is a pretty quick moment, but we see Nikolai Timoshev grab Paige in Elizabeth’s dream; Timoshev is the operative who Elizabeth and Philip kidnapped in the pilot episode and he is the man who raped Elizabeth while she was training to be a spy and who Philip killed. It is like she has reached into her most terrible moment and her subconscious is pairing this with bringing Paige into the fold.

In fact the Paige situation is spiraling and Elizabeth’s fears about Paige spilling everything to Pastor Tim have come true in quick fashion. Instantly going for the killing him solution is not a surprise and I think everyone in the audience expected Pastor Tim to meet his end as soon as Paige uttered those words. But in the same way I think a lot of us expected Martha to have peaced out by now it doesn’t look like Pastor Tim is on the chopping block just yet because Paige ruins everything by telling her mom what she did.

The plan was to make it look like an accident using the space heater in Pastor Tim’s sermon prepping cabin, but because Paige has revealed her slip of the tongue it will now be pretty clear to Paige that her parents had something to do with it if he does indeed end up dead. Accident or no accident. Philip for his part already suggested this would be the case and the idea to run gets floated a couple of times this week. His main concern is that if they do kill Pastor Tim it will send Paige running instead; basically they’re fucked whatever they do.The Americans 4.02 Elizabeth and PaigeThis doesn’t even factor in the deadly pathogen that keeps on coming back to their house, which itself is very much a symbol of the poison seeping in every crack of their family life and it becomes comical that they can’t shift it. Of course this is hilarious in the darkest possible way, but I couldn’t help but let out a laugh when Philip looks down and sees the tin sitting on the bus seat with the guy he has just killed stuffed next to him. Yes the mission did go “pretty bad.”

Both Elizabeth and Philip are pissed with Gabriel and how this is all turning out; that they get the grunt work and are tasked with the delivery of the package. Philip wants to do a dead drop, but this poses a list of potentially lethal issues. It does mean we get to spend more time with the fascinating and super belligerent William, who also really wants Philip to fail at getting that level 4 clearance. Their conversation is peppered with droll zingers and the moments of dark comedy this week are high.

Gabriel is concerned with Elizabeth’s state of mind particularly with the news he has to share with her; her mother has died but she did make sure to pass on a message of love, which Elizabeth does not believe for a second. What this death does is give a moment of mother/daughter bonding for Elizabeth and Paige because of their very recent trip to Germany and in turn this causes Paige to confess about her confession. Unlike her parents or her brother, Paige is not the best at lying. Even though Elizabeth already knew the rage she has tempered while talking to Philip about Paige boils to the surface and she lets her daughter know exactly how much she has fucked up. Paige for her part doesn’t just stand there and take it pointing to how it is Elizabeth and Philip who did this and they have to deal with the consequences. It’s a pretty heartbreaking scene and the phone call from Philip that interrupts Elizabeth’s rage also gives us a chance to see her quiet desperation as she emotionally and emphatically asks him to come home.

Every inch of the Jennings home is a space to confess and this adds to the intimacy. The kitchen is the place where Paige found out the truth; it is the heart of a home and this heart has been stomped all over. It is telling that rather than wait for Philip to come in the house, Elizabeth waits outside having a much needed cigarette. She gets into the parked car in the garage with him and as the walls close in around them there is still the potential for flight, but as the camera pulls away from their place of refuge it is clear that this is far from a simple solution.The Americans 4.02 carElizabeth is not the only person who faces a death in the family and Oleg receives some bad news about his brother who has been killed in combat. Oleg tells Arkady that he didn’t even have to be fighting still as his tour ended in October (we are still in March), but he chose to stay. This theme runs throughout and it is the question plaguing Philip and Elizabeth; even if they did want to leave is that a choice offered to them? Stan tries to use this news as a way to get to Oleg on another level but is met with a brush off. They are not friends.

Friendship is hard in this business especially when a sea of ideology stands between them and Stan is still on the outs with Philip after he accused him of sleeping with Sandy. Elizabeth jokes about Philip making up with his boyfriend (see even Elizabeth can make light of a situation) and it looks like Stan has found a surrogate son in the form of Henry Jennings as he is hanging out at Stan’s eating mac and cheese while getting lady advice. Henry is also adding to his cologne collection which is sure to please his parents even more.The Americans 4.02 Anton and NinaFamily plays an important part in Nina’s actions this week and in the past she has been very much about self-preservation and her loyalty has not always been the easiest to read. Last week she asked to see her husband and her request has been granted. It isn’t a particularly long scene, but we learn a lot about who Nina was before she came to the US; she was married, got pregnant and the intimation here is that she either miscarried or had an abortion. The interaction with Boris is full of so much warmth, but the lack of heat shows that this was not a passionate relationship and Boris sums up Nina’s trajectory with this sad and beautiful sentiment “My world was too small for you.” What Nina wants from Boris is a favor regarding Anton; she wants his son to know he is alive. This is a huge risk and one that doesn’t benefit Nina in a way which Vasili can understand when he confronts Nina about it later.

There is a sense of absolution in her decision and even though she was almost free Nina is no longer “who I was.” In the past we have seen her scramble and do whatever to try and earn her freedom, but something in this place has changed her and that is no longer her prime objective. Her relationship with Anton is an interesting one because it isn’t based on anything sexual and this connection is incredibly important in shaping her decision. Making sure that Anton doesn’t disappear into dust is a priority even if it is detrimental to her position.

And really is there anyone on The Americans who is close to being free?

Disguise of the WeekThe Americans 4.02 disguiseThis looks like a less curly version of this season 3 delight and Philip tries to work all his persuasive magic with sadly terrible results and it gives rise to some disturbing choking imagery plus a whole lot of “are you fucking kidding me?” facial expressions. Plus this scene also uses Soft Cell’s “Tainted Love” in a way which underlines just how quickly this situation turned and just how shit it is for everyone involved. If only that Russian pilot hadn’t been twitchy as fuck. What helps about this look for Philip is that it is pretty bland and that suit is not going to stand out to anyone. The only defining feature is the fake mark on his cheek and that should be the only thing someone should remember.

Shot(s) of the Week

The Americans 4.02 Elizabeth and PhilipReturning to my earlier point about how different parts of their home are used for confession and the laundry room is a prime example of this. At the start of the episode Philip initially finds it hard to look at his wife when he explains why Stan is mad at him. The Americans 4.02 bathroomLater on when it is time for the secret sharing of the crushing his soul variety it starts with this display of utter exhaustion, but a lot more openness in a much bigger and brighter space. For starters the way Elizabeth is lit, dressed and stood suggests tenderness rather than this harried expression and dark attire from the opening scene.The Americans 4.02 Philip and ElizabethThey end in this moment of really looking at each other and I really love how the big bathroom mirror is used in this shot.

Outfit I Would Wear in 2016The Americans 4.02 Elizabeth and GabrielThis week for The Observer I spoke to Americans costume designer Katie Irish and one of the items we discussed was this Coach Wool Icon Trench (we will see Elizabeth sporting one in tan this season too) and as I mention in the piece a trench coat is timeless and this whole look would not look out of place in the 80s or present day. Plus Elizabeth really looks like she is not going to take anyone’s shit in that getup.

Bonus – The Most ‘Felicity’ Elizabeth Jennings Has Ever Been
The Americans 4.02 Elizabeth FelicityRandom and late observation and in this bathroom scene I got a whole lot of Felicity Porter vibes (yes I know they are played by the same actress but there has never been ANYTHING Felicity about Elizabeth). Here in this bathroom as Elizabeth ties up her and goes about her evening skin routine – even spies must moisturize – wearing a plaid shirt it read a little Felicity. The sympathetic ear aspect also adds to this factor and it also hits my love of secrets shard in a bathroom setting.

The 18th Costume Designers Guild Awards

24 Feb

Costume design took center stage last night at the 18th Costume Designers Guild Awards. A celebration that is TV Ate My Wardrobe award season high point as it showcases the incredible talent that has such a big influence on us here.

Film, TV and short-form are all included with period, contemporary and fantasy getting their own TV and film categories (this is the first year in which television has a fantasy option rather than the mini-series/TV one). Plenty of stars were in attendance both in a presenting capacity and to support the costume designers they have worked with and Besty Brandt was the evening’s host.

For the third year in a row Mindy Kaling wore a gown designed by The Mindy Project costume designer and Designers Guild president Salvador Perez; once again it is a look which shows how well Perez knows Kaling’s body and embraces her incredible figure. It is something he has done time and time again on The Mindy Project and of course it is bold in the color choice.Mindy KalingWinners included Michele Clapton taking home the first fantasy television award after winning for Game of Thrones last year when fantasy shared a category with period. Lou Eyrich also won two years in a row for American Horror Story despite a change of category (going from mini-series/TV movie to contemporary) and she can be seen in an incredible black ensemble with Beasts of No Nation winner Jenny Eagan below. Eagan won for True Detective in the contemporary category last year (and was also nominated for Olive Kitteridge).Lou Eyrich and Jenny EaganNon-costume designer special achievements were given to Quentin Tarantino who received the Distinguished Collaborator Award and Cate Blanchett was honored with the Lacoste Spotlight Award. Blanchett is in both films that Sandy Powell is nominated for this year (Carol, Cinderella) and she did not disappoint in her choice of custom Versace with a very impressive Tiffany necklace. Powell also looks fabulous with added mirrored and sparkle details.Cate Blanchett and Sandy PowellIn Blanchett’s speech she acknowledged the importance of working with costume designers saying “Everyone talks about their relationship with the other actors and the director, and of course those are important. But in the end, it’s in those costume fittings; those silent moments away from the rush, where you make manifest the psychological things you talk about in the rehearsal room. It’s the building blocks of a character.”

The Distinguished Service Award was given to master dyer Edwina Pellikka and The Knick’s Ellen Mirojnick not only won for The Knick this year, but she was also the recipient of the Career Achievement Award.Ellen MirojnickMirojnick’s work has spanned over 30 years and projects include many iconic costume moments such as Glenn Close rocking a lot of white in Fatal Attraction, all of those Wall Street suits, the Sharon Stone interview in Basic Instinct, recreating Charlie Chaplin’s famous look in Chaplin, Keanu Reeves in a white tee in Speed and so many flamboyant looks in the recent Behind the Candelabra. Some of Mirojnick’s pieces were on display as part of the stage decoration including Liberace’s incredible (and super heavy) fur coat that Michael Douglas wore in Behind the Candelabra and John Thackery’s signature white shoes from The Knick.Costume Designers Guild AwardsCostume Designers Guild Awards 2016Here is the full list of nominees and the winners have been highlighted.

Outstanding Contemporary Television Series

American Horror Story: Hotel – Lou Eyrich (Winner)
Empire (Season 1) – Rita McGhee
House of Cards – Johanna Argan, Kemal Harris
Ray Donovan – Christopher Lawrence
Transparent – Marie Schley

Outstanding Period Television Series

The Knick – Ellen Mirojnick (Winner)
Mad Men – Janie Bryant, Tiffany White Stanton
Masters of Sex – Isis Mussenden
Outlander – Terry Dresbach
Penny Dreadful – Gabriella Pescucci

Outstanding Fantasy Television Series

Game of Thrones – Michele Clapton (Winner)
Once Upon a Time – Eduardo Castro
Sleepy Hollow (Season 2) – Kristin M. Burke, Mairi Chisholm
Sleepy Hollow (Season 3) – Mairi Chisholm
The Wiz Live! – Paul Tazewell

Excellence in Contemporary Film

Beasts of No Nation – Jenny Eagan (Winner)
Joy – Michael Wilkinson
Kingsman: The Secret Service – Arianne Phillips
The Martian – Janty Yates
Youth – Carlo Poggioli 

Excellence in Period Film

Brooklyn – Odile Dicks-Mireaux
Carol – Sandy Powell
Crimson Peak – Kate Hawley
The Danish Girl – Paco Delgado (Winner)
Trumbo – Daniel Orlandi

Excellence in Fantasy Film

Cinderella – Sandy Powell
Ex Machina – Sammy Sheldon Differ
The Hunger Games: Mockingjay – Part 2 – Kurt and Bart
Mad Max: Fury Road – Jenny Beavan (Winner)
Star Wars: The Force Awakens – Michael Kaplan

Excellence in Short Form Design

“And So It Begins,” Old Spice Commercial – Mindy Le Brock

From the Makers of Happy & Merry, H&M Presents Katy Perry Commercial – B. Åkerlund

The Hobbit: Kingdoms of Middle-earth – Dance Battle, Video Game, Kaboom/Warner Interactive Commercial – Soyon An

Kevin Spacey, E-Trade Commercial – Johanna Argan

“Most Interesting Man in the World Wins on Land, Sea & Air,” Dos Equis Commercial – Julie Vogel (Winner)

All worthy winners and yet I am a little disappointed for Janie Bryant and Tiffany White Stanton that they didn’t win for the final season of Mad Men because there were so many standout costuming moments.Kiernan Shipka and Janie BryantHere is Bryant with Kiernan Shipka and both ladies are crushing it with their red carpet choices with Shipka opting for Alexander McQueen.

Check back on Friday for more looks from the Costume Designers Guild Awards as part of “Out of the Box: Look of the Week.”

Get the Look: Donna’s Stripes Tees and Plaid Shirts on Halt and Catch Fire

25 Aug

The amount of good TV which has aired in 2015 has become a hot topic item as we get to the point where there are too many shows to keep up with. Fall television is quick approaching so now is prime catch up time and this week I decided to go against my better viewing style judgement skipping Halt and Catch Fire’s first season and diving straight into the second. I did watch the pilot back when it aired, but if I recall correctly I didn’t like it enough to keep watching even though the Girls in Hoodies podcast – miss you guys – always made me want to check back in.

So now I have and if I was to start my own Mutiny community room it would be dedicated to all things Donna and Cameron with a costume focused annex. As Halt and Catch Fire is set in the mid-80s the ideal places to find era appropriate garments are from vintage and thrift stores shopping. With Donna her Mutiny work style gravitates towards classic staples such as striped t-shirts, high waisted jeans, plaid shirts and college hoodies. It is the kind of wardrobe which easily doubles for off duty leisure time and she has plenty of business suits for those all important meetings.

IMG_1907The headband is also a vital part of her look and this is practical touch while serving up a girly approachable appearance. And it also means I can see a whole lot of Leighton Meester in Kerry Bishé.stripe teeRed and white stripe tees are available (in long and short sleeve) in pretty much every store including super affordablemid point and splurge.

IMG_1906Where the internet did fail me was finding a rainbow stripe t-shirt like this one and early to mid-80s fashion really excels at splashing multi-color stripes on an array of kids and adult clothing. This might be a search better suited for vintage stores.

Donna’s other wardrobe staple is plaid shirts. It might be sticky and hot at the moment, but the ideal time for this is item is fast approaching and I am so looking forward to the change in season. As with stripe tops, plaid shirts can be found in all price points and in a vast array of colors with Uniqlo being one of my go to brands.

IMG_1914 IMG_1913Pair either stripes or plaid with a pair of high waisted jeans for that Donna Clark look. These ones are from Madewell:

Madewell jeansDonna has done full fancy pants dress up mode in season 2 and looked stunning to boot; however it is her Mutiny party outfit which I am more interested in and it keeps in line with Donna’s overall casual wear look combining stripes with a shirt dress.

IMG_1916I love shirt dresses because they are easy to dress up or down and because they work in stripes, checks, polka dots and pretty much every pattern. This Tory Burch polka dot delight has caught my eye (okay I have previously featured the shirt version) and you could definitely change up the belt to something more Donna-esque.

Tory Burch polka dotAs with The AmericansHalt and Catch Fire’s costume designer Kimberly Adams hasn’t going all in on lurid 80s stereotypes. Yes Joe is all about the Miami Vice sleeve pushed up stylings and so many white jackets, but Joe is very different kind of character to Donna. He is the kind of person who would jump on trends, whereas Donna’s everyday attire is going to be similar to the kinds of clothes she has worn for the last few years.

Hopefully AMC will renew Halt and Catch Fire for a third season for many reasons including seeing how the new Cali location will impact the costume design.

2015 Emmy Nominations Closer Look – Costumes (Updated to Include Winners)

17 Jul

Ah the Emmy nominations and the usual amounts of rage and joy were felt as the names were read out. There were the expected omissions which still caused the air to turn blue (The Americans getting nothing aside from writing and guest star and Jane the Virgin getting shut out) to the surprises (TATIANA) and out of the 14 performances on my wish list, 5 made the cut. Now let’s take a look at who has been nominated for costume design.

Game of ThronesThe costume design awards are split into two categories and unlike previous years which have mirrored the way the acting awards are divided between series and then mini-series/TV movie/special they are now organizing it by contemporary and period/fantasy. This makes so much sense and it means contemporary shows which have been overlooked in the past now get their chance to shine.

That being said there are still a few notable omissions and I cannot understand how Janie Bryant’s work on Mad Men has not been recognized. It is baffling when you consider the influence and impact this costuming has had on the way we talk about costume design (see everything to do with “Mad Style“) and runway trends. I would maybe understand if the final season of Mad Men was lacking in the nomination department overall and yet it has 11 in total.

Adding to this list of snubs with shows talked on a weekly basis here at TV Ate My Wardrobe include Ane Crabtree’s exquisite work on Masters of Sex, Jenny Gering’s subtle take on early 80s and all things excellent spy wear on The Americans and while I have fallen out of love with Scandal, Lyn Paolo’s costume design and all those wine cardigans are still on top of the game. Not to mention Diane Lockhart and Alicia Florrick’s executive attire that goes beyond boring pantsuits on The Good Wife thanks to Daniel Lawson.

One super bright and pattern filled comedy has been nominated and I am thrilled to see Salvador Perez’s name on there for The Mindy Project, but it seems like there is only room for one color soaked comedy as Tina Nigro is sadly not included for The Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt.

Going through the full list of Emmy nomination ballot submissions means I am also now sad that the “Sunday Funday” episode of You’re the Worst missed the cut (there are SO many good costumes in this one) along with the Val episode of Broad City, Halloween on Looking, the pilot episodes of Agent Carter and The Knick, plus the amazing coat filled season 3 opener of Orphan Black. I’ve only seen the first couple of episodes of Outlander and yet I know this is another big disappointment and it straddles both period and fantasy elements.

Of course not everyone can be nominated but as I scroll through the list there are some really disappointing entries that didn’t make it. Hannibal was not eligible for voting and so the initial lack of murder suit outrage was quickly subdued.

By submitting a specific episode we can see exactly which pieces they are being judged on and I am so pleased to see Daenery’s incredible dragon neckwear is featured in the Game of Thrones “Dance of Dragons” choice. Empire has two nominations and the costume design team has changed between the pilot and full season with both getting recognized.

The full list of nominees:

Boardwalk EmpireOUTSTANDING COSTUMES FOR A PERIOD/FANTASY SERIES, LIMITED SERIES OR MOVIE

American Horror Story: Freak Show, “Monsters Among Us” – Lou Eyrich, Elizabeth Macey, Ken Van Duyne

Boardwalk Empire, “Golden Days for Boys and Girls” – John Dunn, Maria Zamansky, James P. Hammer, Jr., Joseph LaCorte

Downton Abbey, “Episode 9” – Anna Mary Scott Robbins, Michael Weldon, Kathryn Tart

Game of Thrones, “Dance of Dragons” – Michele Clapton, Sheena Wichary, Alexander Fordham, Nina Ayres WINNER!

Wolf Hall, “Part 3” – Joanna Eatwell, Ken Lang, Clare Vyse

Empire The Lyon's RoarOUTSTANDING COSTUMES FOR A CONTEMPORARY SERIES, LIMITED SERIES OR MOVIE

Empire, “Pilot” – Paolo Nieddu, Eileen McCahill

Empire, “The Lyon’s Roar” – Rita D. McGhee, Sukari McGill

Gotham, “Under the Knife” – Lisa Padovani, Danielle Schembre-Borakovsky

The Mindy Project, “San Francisco Bae” – Salvador Perez, Gala Autumn, Ivy Heather Thaide

Olive Kitteridge, “Incoming Tide” – Jenny Eagan, Debbie Holbrook

Transparent, “Symbolic Exemplar” – Marie Schley, Nancy Jarzynko WINNER!

 

The Creative Arts Emmys will take place on Saturday, September 12.

Masters of Sex 3.01 “Parliament of Owls” Costume Design Recap

13 Jul

The TV Ate My Wardrobe Masters of Sex coverage leans heavily towards costume design elements and as this first episode of the new season is also costume designer Ane Crabtree’s last episode on the show I want to focus on this aspect of this premiere. So there will be some plot discussion, but maybe not as much as previous reviews.

First thing to take note of is the time jump as season 2 ended in early 1961 and the very useful title card at the start of “Parliament of Owls” tells us it is now 1965. This means bigger hair, more pants and patterns. It isn’t a completely different change style wise with Libby still sticking to pastels and Virginia’s bow and button details remain intact (if not a little bigger in places) and the most notable difference is Virginia’s children who are now fully fledged teenagers (and different actors). The teens are used in this opening episode as a way to heighten conflict and so far they have proved to be pesky to both the adults and the audience. Think more Kim Bauer than Paige Jennings.

Masters of Sex 3.01 shoppingStarting with my favorite Virginia look from the episode in her oh so relaxed and chic combination of capri pants and a green shirt tied up in the middle signifying she is on vacation. Despite it being far from a chilled out break with so many different points of tension Virginia still manages to look the part in her sun hat and sunglasses. In fact you could wear this ensemble today and not look out of place.

A closer look at the pair:

Masters of Sex 3.01 sunglassesLibby on the other hand looks rigid and formal in her pale blue dress and while it is probably on trend for the time, the contrast between the two women and how comfortable they are in their skin is palpable.

Take Libby’s reaction when she sees Virginia hula dancing with Virginia’s daughter Jenny (Libby and Bill now have three children and the title card at the end informs us that everything about the kids is “entirely fictitious”).

Masters of sex 3.01 hula Masters of Sex 3.01 Libby watchingWhile Libby looks somewhat uptight here (although I love the gold belt detail) for their lakeside location, the outfit from the previous day is far more relaxed and shows just how much Virginia and Bill’s arrival has impacted her mental state.

Masters of Sex 3.01This reads as far more playful and vacation mom with her headscarf and gingham (which is so on point this season as Lizzy Caplan showed off on Jimmy Kimmel Live! recently). It is a very put together outfit and fits in with this whole ideal family that Libby is trying to maintain; the cracks are clear and even though she thinks it is best to put on a happy family front it is far more likely to be detrimental to the children.

Masters of Sex 3.01 Bill and VirginiaThere has always is a lot red, blue and white in Virginia’s wardrobe and she is killing it with her headscarf choice here which is the perfect accessory for a road trip in an MG convertible. Plus so many excellent side eye looks in Bill’s direction.

It is important to remember that even though there has been a significant time jump when it comes to personal style evolution it doesn’t tend to be all that dramatic when you are an adult, especially if you have found a look you are comfortable with and I would say Virginia has done just this.

Masters of Sex 3.01 Virginia sunglasses blue dressUnlike Libby, Virginia ditches her headscarf before she steps into her house and this dress is very much Virginia work attire.

Masters of Sex 3.01 Virginia and TessaLater on Virginia switches her work clothes for leisure ones, but there is room for more disdainful looks as her daughter Tessa pushes boundaries. But hey her blouse and pants are a good look.

Masters of Sex 3.01 Bill cardiganBill’s version of vacay dressing is removing his bow tie and putting on a chunky knit cardigan that Olivia Pope would drink a whole lot of wine in.

Masters of Sex 3.01 cardigans and convertiblesThe cardigan and Bill are one.

Masters of Sex 3.01 bedVirginia’s bedwear screams winter rather than a warm weekend at the lake and I wonder if she is trying to be as unalluring as possible because even when a secret affair is not as secret as you think, you probably don’t want to be hooking up when the wife and all of your kids are under the same roof. This is the most forward we have seen Libby about this whole setup and again they are wearing garments that play on how different they are with Libby being the surprisingly provocative one in this conversation.

They do share one thing in this bizarre friendship and that is Bill Masters; for some reason all I can think about is the Princess Diana interview where she talks about there being three people in her marriage.

Master of Sex 3.01 VirginiaThere is a time jump within a time jump in this episode as the narrative moves between the presentation Bill and Virginia are giving to the press and the time at the lake when they have received the first galleys of their book. Their book is released in 1966, which means another year looms on the horizon.

I would be remiss if I didn’t show this shot of Virginia getting ready, practicing her talking points and eating breakfast because it is a perfect showcase of the foundation garments which I discuss in detail over at Flavorwire.

Masters of Sex 3.01 bathroomA well put together lady suit and a bathroom revelation with Bill putting the unzipped skirt and Virginia’s throwing up together to equal pregnant. After all the talk of making sure her daughter doesn’t end up pregnant it is Virginia who ends up in the family way. Super awkward and a story development that I’m not sure how I feel about.

Masters of Sex 3.01 BettyAnd to end things on a bright note with Betty in glorious yellow and while she only made a brief appearance, this ensemble is the best of all things Betty; bold and straight to the point.

I’m looking forward to seeing Ane Crabtree’s work on the forthcoming HBO show Westworld and I am intrigued to see how Masters of Sex will progress now that both feet are firmly in the 1960s.

Work in Other Places: Talking Underwear on TV and the Best Shows of the Year (So Far)

9 Jul

Shameless self-promotion time and if you can’t shamelessly self-promote on your own website then I don’t know where you can.

Over at Flavorwire I had the pleasure of talking to costume designers from Masters of Sex (Ane Crabtree), The Americans (Jenny Gering) and You’re the Worst (Wendy Benbrook) about the importance of undergarments and how both period and contemporary costuming reflects on and can impact current trends.

Masters of Sex 2.03 Fight The Americans 2.06 You're the Worst 1.01Here is an extract and you read the whole thing here

The Americans is a bridge between period and contemporary fashion — the ’80s don’t feel so long ago — and it helps that The Americans‘ costuming isn’t what you might typically expect from this decade (lurid neons, shoulder pads). The show keeps a toe in the ’70s, and that’s reflected in Elizabeth’s everyday underwear choices.

While a visible bra strap might have been an extremely telling costuming choice even in The Americans‘ era, shows set in the present day are likely to use this detail far more casually. For sitcoms featuring young women —  Youre the Worst, Broad City, New Girl, Girls — warmer weather means, “What kind of bra can I wear with this?” dilemmas.”

And over at Complex I wrote about why The Americans is one of the “Best TV Shows of 2015 (So Far)” focusing on the complicated relationships at the heart of this Cold War era spy show: “Disguises, wigs and missions create tense and fraught moments, but the heart shattering action takes place in the most mundane of locations as these characters reveal who they actually are. In a world where secrets protect, the truth is a loaded weapon and The Americans is not afraid of pulling the trigger.”

 

The Wish List: Tigers and Butterflies on Brooklyn Nine-Nine

30 Apr

Brooklyn Nine-Nine is back and so is the TV Ate My Wardrobe all things Gina love. This week’s Wish List is animal themed and Gina is joined by her drinking bestie Amy – Gina might try and deny this in front of other people but it is true – in costumes to covet.

First up and skipping to the end of “AC/DC” is Gina’s hangover outfit starting with the Torn by Ronny Kobo ‘Amira’ crop top featuring tigers. Spring is here so it is time to dig out playful prints like these. For the added morning after look add a sweater slung over your shoulders and large sunglasses that may or may not have been bought for $200 from a bodega (this cost covers two pairs and a Scarface hoodie).

B99 2.20 GinaHere is a clearer look at the top and matching skirt (the skirt does not appear to be listed anywhere for some reason, which is a shame as it is very cute):

Amira crop top and skirtEarlier in the episode, Amy also turns to a nature theme in this pajama style Equipment ‘Adalyn’ butterfly blouse.

B99 2.20 amy butterfly blouseAlthough I think I prefer the sleeves rolled up styling the model is sporting.

Equipment blouseAn episode that follows Amy and Gina on a night out when things get this messy is definitely something I need in my life. Make it happen, Brooklyn Nine-Nine.

Femininity, Menswear and Pattern on Mad Men

13 Apr

It’s May 1970 on Mad Men and the message is that some things change, some stay the same. Don’s penchant for brunettes in pain is one staple you can rely on and “New Business” opens with the exception to this rule. Yes Betty has been in pain, but she is never going to admit it and now she’s going to be studying psychology. Betty is smart remember (“I speak Italian“) and there’s part of me that would love her to be my therapist. No, really.

The tableau Don looks upon is the family he once had and he can’t go home as this family has moved on. So has Betty’s style as there is a softness here with frills and pattern.

Mad Men 7.09 Betty kitchen“New Business” showcases the women of Don Draper including Megan as she is in town to finalize their divorce and get the rest of her things from the apartment. Megan is as stylish as she has ever been doing Cali cool in a hoodie peasant blouse and flared jeans looking nothing like her more traditionally dressed mother and sister.

Mad Men 7.09 MeganFor her meeting with Harry, Megan dresses up in her “Welcome to LA” blue baby doll number prompting Harry to call her every man’s fantasy and that she looks like Ali MacGraw and Bridget Bardot had a baby. Harry does what Harry does and is the worst by hitting on her and then running to Don to call Megan crazy. Megan is incredibly fashion forward so it is strange to see her wearing something from a year ago, but it is obviously a look she feels confident in despite her lack of good acting fortune recently.

Mad Men 7.09 Megan and HarryPast and present collide for Don with elevator awkwardness and I don’t think Arnold would be cracking so many jokes if he knew what his wife Sylvia, had done with Don. Here we see sadness through the prism of the wealthy and the not so financially secure as Di has nowhere near the amount of money, but just as much pain. Di remarks to Don that he can’t know the amount of heartbreak and boy he should dish out the Dick Whitman routine. Don later gives Megan $1 million dollars and the feeling of ennui can’t be cure by money alone and there’s a whole lot of dissatisfaction running throughout this show.

Mad Men 7.09 awkward elevatorAnnie Hall before Annie Hall and celebrity photograph Pima Ryan sashays in with all her sexuality and confidence in a range of amazing tailored menswear. Pima seduces Stan after he is rude and abrupt when he first meets her and she tries her hand at Peggy delivering the super cheesy ‘I want to photograph you’ line. Mimi Rogers is incredible in this role as she plays Stan and Peggy sees through the hustle. On both occasions Peggy wears bold colors with strong patterns and while her style isn’t ever going to match the sartorial highs of her colleagues it is definitely improving. Peggy is still in control and showing her femininity at the same time.

Mad Men 7.09 Peggy and Pima

Mad Men 7.09 Pima and PeggyAnd because I can’t resist Pete Campbell in sportswear I will leave you with this beauty to round things off.

Mad Men 7.09 Pete and DonFrom these first two episodes alone I am so happy to see what Janie Bryant has already managed to do with the end of 60s fashion with a push into my favorite clothing decade.

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