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Tag Archives: Sandy Powell

Best of the 2016 Oscars Red Carpet: Sparkle and Pattern

29 Feb

Welcome to the final hurrah of awards season (well there are also still Vanity Fair after party photos to deal with) and after months of campaigning and many other red carpets the Oscars are here. Now I’m not going to say I was totally disappointed, underwhelmed perhaps as overall the Golden Globes and maybe even the SAGs had more standout dress moments. There was a lot to love this year, but not a whole lot that had that Oscar WOAH. No contenders to the Michelle Williams in yellow Vera Wang from 10 years ago.

There are still plenty of dresses to peruse and welcome to part 1 of our highlights – kicking off with all the sparkly delights.Saoirse RonanSaoirse Ronan delivered the first WOW reaction of the night in emerald Calvin Klein Collection and it is giving me Keira Knightley Atonement dress feelings with a 1970s sequin twist. That is a very good thing.Naomi Watts and Liev SchreiberMore sequins and a gown that looks just as stunning in motion as it does in these posed photos; Naomi Watts is onto a winner in Armani Privé and Liev Schreiber is doing the classic tux thing (for dudes in exciting suits check out the style highlights from the Independent Spirit Awards).Margot RobbiePlunging gold snakeskin for Margot Robbie and this is another dress that is giving off so many 1970s vibes and in not so shocking news I am very much here for this decade’s strong influence.Sandy PowellSound the #LadySuitWatch2016 klaxon and costume designer Sandy Powell (no E! this is not Tilda) does not disappoint in a year when she has been nominated not once, but twice (for Carol and Cinderella – see photos from a Cinderella exhibit here). Amy PoehlerWhen I first saw Amy Poehler in Andrew Gn I snap judgement declared this my favorite ever red carpet look for her and the morning after I still feel the same. Love the embroidery and the drama. Plus a caped sleeve is always going to hit my sweet spot.Alicia VikanderIt has been a season of big hitters for the always fashion forward and adventurous Alicia Vikander so I was a little disappointed with what Louis Vuitton made for her very big night. Don’t get me wrong it is a lovely gown (bubble hem aside), but it’s not the triumphant levels we saw at the SAGs. I feel greedy for wanting more.

I am glad she won (even if it should have been for Ex-Machina) and I’m really looking forward to seeing what she does both on screen and on the red carpet in the not too distant future. Shout-out to the woman in silver sequins in the background as she looks fabulous.Daisy RidleyAnother recent red carpet big hitter and Daisy Ridley crushed the Star Wars press tour on every level. Chanel Couture is a great step although I am not in love with the sheer trim, but Ridley is certainly working the awkward length and gets those all important lipstick points. John Legend and Chrissy TeiganChrissy Teigen posted a photo on Instagram of final Oscar prep which included getting sewn into her dress – standard fancy gown procedure which always has me wondering about trips to the bathroom – and she looks incredible in rose embroidered Marchesa. John Legend as always scrubs up very well.Juliet RylanceAnother incredible embroidered creation and Juliet Rylance’s Temperley London frock gives off a very fresh vibe. Rylance was there with her father Mark Rylance and his Best Supporting Actor speech was one of my favorites from the night. Such grace and humility. Plus that wonderful accent. Now I am also wondering whether we will get any more of The Knick as I have so many hopes for Cornelia.

Stay tuned for part 2 of our Oscar coverage.

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The 18th Costume Designers Guild Awards

24 Feb

Costume design took center stage last night at the 18th Costume Designers Guild Awards. A celebration that is TV Ate My Wardrobe award season high point as it showcases the incredible talent that has such a big influence on us here.

Film, TV and short-form are all included with period, contemporary and fantasy getting their own TV and film categories (this is the first year in which television has a fantasy option rather than the mini-series/TV one). Plenty of stars were in attendance both in a presenting capacity and to support the costume designers they have worked with and Besty Brandt was the evening’s host.

For the third year in a row Mindy Kaling wore a gown designed by The Mindy Project costume designer and Designers Guild president Salvador Perez; once again it is a look which shows how well Perez knows Kaling’s body and embraces her incredible figure. It is something he has done time and time again on The Mindy Project and of course it is bold in the color choice.Mindy KalingWinners included Michele Clapton taking home the first fantasy television award after winning for Game of Thrones last year when fantasy shared a category with period. Lou Eyrich also won two years in a row for American Horror Story despite a change of category (going from mini-series/TV movie to contemporary) and she can be seen in an incredible black ensemble with Beasts of No Nation winner Jenny Eagan below. Eagan won for True Detective in the contemporary category last year (and was also nominated for Olive Kitteridge).Lou Eyrich and Jenny EaganNon-costume designer special achievements were given to Quentin Tarantino who received the Distinguished Collaborator Award and Cate Blanchett was honored with the Lacoste Spotlight Award. Blanchett is in both films that Sandy Powell is nominated for this year (Carol, Cinderella) and she did not disappoint in her choice of custom Versace with a very impressive Tiffany necklace. Powell also looks fabulous with added mirrored and sparkle details.Cate Blanchett and Sandy PowellIn Blanchett’s speech she acknowledged the importance of working with costume designers saying “Everyone talks about their relationship with the other actors and the director, and of course those are important. But in the end, it’s in those costume fittings; those silent moments away from the rush, where you make manifest the psychological things you talk about in the rehearsal room. It’s the building blocks of a character.”

The Distinguished Service Award was given to master dyer Edwina Pellikka and The Knick’s Ellen Mirojnick not only won for The Knick this year, but she was also the recipient of the Career Achievement Award.Ellen MirojnickMirojnick’s work has spanned over 30 years and projects include many iconic costume moments such as Glenn Close rocking a lot of white in Fatal Attraction, all of those Wall Street suits, the Sharon Stone interview in Basic Instinct, recreating Charlie Chaplin’s famous look in Chaplin, Keanu Reeves in a white tee in Speed and so many flamboyant looks in the recent Behind the Candelabra. Some of Mirojnick’s pieces were on display as part of the stage decoration including Liberace’s incredible (and super heavy) fur coat that Michael Douglas wore in Behind the Candelabra and John Thackery’s signature white shoes from The Knick.Costume Designers Guild AwardsCostume Designers Guild Awards 2016Here is the full list of nominees and the winners have been highlighted.

Outstanding Contemporary Television Series

American Horror Story: Hotel – Lou Eyrich (Winner)
Empire (Season 1) – Rita McGhee
House of Cards – Johanna Argan, Kemal Harris
Ray Donovan – Christopher Lawrence
Transparent – Marie Schley

Outstanding Period Television Series

The Knick – Ellen Mirojnick (Winner)
Mad Men – Janie Bryant, Tiffany White Stanton
Masters of Sex – Isis Mussenden
Outlander – Terry Dresbach
Penny Dreadful – Gabriella Pescucci

Outstanding Fantasy Television Series

Game of Thrones – Michele Clapton (Winner)
Once Upon a Time – Eduardo Castro
Sleepy Hollow (Season 2) – Kristin M. Burke, Mairi Chisholm
Sleepy Hollow (Season 3) – Mairi Chisholm
The Wiz Live! – Paul Tazewell

Excellence in Contemporary Film

Beasts of No Nation – Jenny Eagan (Winner)
Joy – Michael Wilkinson
Kingsman: The Secret Service – Arianne Phillips
The Martian – Janty Yates
Youth – Carlo Poggioli 

Excellence in Period Film

Brooklyn – Odile Dicks-Mireaux
Carol – Sandy Powell
Crimson Peak – Kate Hawley
The Danish Girl – Paco Delgado (Winner)
Trumbo – Daniel Orlandi

Excellence in Fantasy Film

Cinderella – Sandy Powell
Ex Machina – Sammy Sheldon Differ
The Hunger Games: Mockingjay – Part 2 – Kurt and Bart
Mad Max: Fury Road – Jenny Beavan (Winner)
Star Wars: The Force Awakens – Michael Kaplan

Excellence in Short Form Design

“And So It Begins,” Old Spice Commercial – Mindy Le Brock

From the Makers of Happy & Merry, H&M Presents Katy Perry Commercial – B. Åkerlund

The Hobbit: Kingdoms of Middle-earth – Dance Battle, Video Game, Kaboom/Warner Interactive Commercial – Soyon An

Kevin Spacey, E-Trade Commercial – Johanna Argan

“Most Interesting Man in the World Wins on Land, Sea & Air,” Dos Equis Commercial – Julie Vogel (Winner)

All worthy winners and yet I am a little disappointed for Janie Bryant and Tiffany White Stanton that they didn’t win for the final season of Mad Men because there were so many standout costuming moments.Kiernan Shipka and Janie BryantHere is Bryant with Kiernan Shipka and both ladies are crushing it with their red carpet choices with Shipka opting for Alexander McQueen.

Check back on Friday for more looks from the Costume Designers Guild Awards as part of “Out of the Box: Look of the Week.”

Nominees Announced for the 18th Costume Designers Guild Awards

8 Jan

The nominations keep on coming and the Costume Designers Guild Awards are one of TV Ate My Wardrobe’s key celebrations of the year because they focus on excellence in costume design covering television, film and short form. Instead of one costume design category where period tends to reign supreme these TV and film awards are split into three separate groupings giving contemporary, period and fantasy their chance to shine. The awards will take place Tuesday, February 23 in a ceremony at the Beverly Hilton Hotel and if it is anything like last year then it will be a very glamorous affair.

We’re going to discuss who has been nominated and the names of those we would also have loved to see get recognized. Plus a fun treat at the end as I was lucky enough to get to see one nominee’s creations up close last year and now is the perfect time to share those photos.

Mad Men 7.12 Queen PeggyHere is the full list of nominees:

Outstanding Contemporary Television Series

American Horror Story: Hotel – Lou Eyrich
Empire (Season 1) – Rita McGhee
House of Cards – Johanna Argan, Kemal Harris
Ray Donovan – Christopher Lawrence
Transparent – Marie Schley

Outstanding Period Television Series

The Knick – Ellen Mirojnick
Mad Men – Janie Bryant, Tiffany White Stanton
Masters of Sex – Isis Mussenden
Outlander – Terry Dresbach
Penny Dreadful – Gabriella Pescucci

Outstanding Fantasy Television Series

Game of Thrones – Michele Clapton
Once Upon a Time – Eduardo Castro
Sleepy Hollow (Season 2) – Kristin M. Burke, Mairi Chisholm
Sleepy Hollow (Season 3) – Mairi Chisholm
The Wiz Live! – Paul Tazewell

Excellence in Contemporary Film

Beasts of No Nation – Jenny Eagan
Joy – Michael Wilkinson
Kingsman: The Secret Service – Arianne Phillips
The Martian – Janty Yates
Youth – Carlo Poggioli 

Excellence in Period Film

Brooklyn – Odile Dicks-Mireaux
Carol – Sandy Powell
Crimson Peak – Kate Hawley
The Danish Girl – Paco Delgado
Trumbo – Daniel Orlandi

Excellence in Fantasy Film

Cinderella – Sandy Powell
Ex Machina – Sammy Sheldon Differ
The Hunger Games: Mockingjay – Part 2 – Kurt and Bart
Mad Max: Fury Road – Jenny Beavan
Star Wars: The Force Awakens – Michael Kaplan

Excellence in Short Form Design

“And So It Begins,” Old Spice Commercial – Mindy Le Brock

From the Makers of Happy & Merry, H&M Presents Katy Perry Commercial – B. Åkerlund

The Hobbit: Kingdoms of Middle-earth – Dance Battle, Video Game, Kaboom/Warner Interactive Commercial – Soyon An

Kevin Spacey, E-Trade Commercial – Johanna Argan

“Most Interesting Man in the World Wins on Land, Sea & Air,” Dos Equis Commercial – Julie Vogel

Last year fantasy and period costuming were grouped together when it came to the TV nominees and mini-series/made for TV movie took up the third space. Splitting fantasy and period makes so much sense to me giving a broader scope especially when considering the volume and quality of period shows. Sleepy Hollow does have two nominations in fantasy because there have been two different costume designers (Kristin M. Burke and Mairi Chisholm) at the helm over this voting period and it is about time that this show got some recognition for the incredible collection of contemporary, period and monster attire. The other standout and the show to beat is Game of Thrones and as this is Michele Clapton’s final season this also gives her an added boost.

The period category is where a lot of the big hitters are including Janie Bryant and Tiffany White Stanton for Mad Men’s last hurrah (and another excuse to post a photo of my overall costuming highlight from 2015), Masters of Sex wobbled this year story wise, but the costuming didn’t dip in quality and The Knick is just as mesmerizing from a wardrobe point of view as it is from the way it is lit (and anyone who reads my Twitter feed knows how much I love the lighting). I still need to watch Outlander (I know) and while I couldn’t get on with Penny Dreadful it is easy to see why it has been nominated.

As far as shows I would love to see get recognized when it comes to period attire The Americans is top of that list as Jenny Gering managed once again to weave the spy wear with the at home styling so effortlessly and in a way which really informs the story without feeling like an anthology of everything 80s. Fargo is the other one I am disappointed to see not on the list as Carol Case produced some exceptional work. The same can be said about Giovanna Melton’s work on Agent Carter and this is one of the many examples of a show which could easily straddle two different categories as it can also be counted as a fantasy.

The biggest disappointment for me personally comes in the contemporary offerings and while they are all solid choices – American Horror Story: Hotel is another one which could be defined as more than one genre – I can’t help but feel Christopher Hargadon has been sorely overlooked for his work on Hannibal. Comedy has also been mostly ignored and there are plenty of sitcoms, half hours and those hard to define shows like Orange is the New Black missing out with only Transparent taking up that space. Jenn Rogien for Girls and OITNB, Broad City’s Staci Greenbaum, Wendy Benbrook for You’re the Worst and The Mindy Project’s pattern clashing king Salvador Perez are a few of the comedy options who I would have liked to see up for this award.

Moving on to the film options; Joy and The Danish Girl are two films I watched this week and while I didn’t love either one the costuming is a high point in both. I’m also really pleased to see The Martian up for an award as I’m still thinking about the various pieces of NASA apparel, plus the actual space suits and everything back on earth. It’s no surprise seeing either Carol or Brooklyn in the period category (both of which received a BAFTA nomination this morning) and I’ve been pretty obsessed with all things Carol since I saw it in November.

Fantasy is what really excites me film wise this year especially as most of these will sadly not cross over into Oscars territory; although much to my delight Mad Max is up for a BAFTA. Once again Kurt and Bart delivered big on The Hunger Games even if this one is less decadent and grimier than the other installments. When I saw Star Wars for the second time this week I was once again struck by costume details from Rey’s long gloves on top of gloves to Kylo Ren’s cape and there is so much going on that informs character. Ex-Machina is the little movie that could and yeah I think this is a good time to post this gif showcasing some of the simple, but super effective dancing attire.

 [Source]

Sandy Powell is a double nominee (both here and at the BAFTAs) for two Cate Blanchett movies (Carol and Cinderella) and while I haven’t watched Cinderella I was lucky enough to see the costumes up close and personal at an exhibition in London last March and you can see the photos from that in the gallery below.

For the nominees and winners from last year’s 17th Costume Designers Guild Awards head here and check back in to find out the winners of the 18th Costume Designers Guild Awards next month.

 

Rory Gilmore’s Very “Carol” Knitted Hat

5 Jan

Sandy Powell’s costume design in Carol has very much left its mark and while most of the attention has been placed on the standout pieces which Cate Blanchett as the titular character wore – and rightly so as they are incredibly captivating – it is actually Rooney Mara’s Therese Belivet who really caught my eye. Yes Carol gets to wear the most sumptuous items which make her the focal point of any shot, but it is Therese’s style which feels like it could easily be transferred from 1950s New York to now and that is why I have become slightly obsessed by it. Seriously I need her polka dot pajamas and winter coat in my life. And also her hat (especially as it is finally getting colder).

Which brings me to Gilmore Girls and right on schedule after mentioning how I needed to get back to watching this show for the first time, I did so this morning and much to my delight Rory ends up wearing something very Therese. It is in a completely different context and the item in question is meant to be a comedic focal point at first. Rory is joining her grandfather at his fancy golf club for some bonding time (and so she can choose a team sport for her fancy new school) and she doesn’t really have any golf attire; she dresses in a simple lilac shirt and beige chinos – how very 2000. Her grandmother gives her a colorful striped bobble beret and there might have been a slight yelp of excitement from my end when Rory puts it on.

This is the hat worn by Rooney Mara as Therese in Carol and the very first still I saw of Mara in the film. Like Carol and Therese across a department store floor, I fell in love in an instant.

Carol Rooney MaraAnd this is Rory’s, which caused the yelp of Carol related recognition joy.

Gilmore Girls 1.03 hatVertical versus horizontal stripes, but other than that I don’t think it is a reach in seeing a similarity; this isn’t just a case of wearing Carol tinted costumed design glasses.

Give her a hair chop, a camera and the right winter coat and she’s pretty much there as Luke’s place has a very retro feel to it.

Gilmore Girls 1.03 Rory hatAs the episode progresses and Rory feels more comfortable in her environment she warms to her new headwear and she only takes it off when her mother makes fun of it. Lorelai later contends that it is “kinda cute” but this conversation is about far more than knitted berets. That will be saved for when I discuss this episode and others with Julie Hammerle in our TV Rewind series. I personally heart the hat as my notes so vehemently say and this is why there is a whole post dedicated toward it. Now to find a version of my own.

For thoughts on the first two episodes of Gilmore Girls head here.

Julie Hammerle

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