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Thoughts on the 2017 Emmy Costume Design Nominations (Updated to Include Winners)

14 Jul

The Emmy nominations were the usual mix of joy, disbelief, bewilderment and disappointment and quite a few people from my dream picks had their name read out. But not enough. The lack of Leftovers nominations was not a surprise (oh hey, Ann Dowd representing this incredible show), but it is still maddening. At least Queen Carrie Coon did get *a* nomination.

There are already plenty of hot takes and reactions to what did and didn’t get recognized with Vox’s Caroline Framke giving my fave analysis and Libby Hill’s Leftovers article being pretty much the perfect reaction.

As is now tradition, I am here to take a look at which shows got nominated for costume design. For thoughts and previous winners from 2015 and 2016 click on those years.As with last two years there are separate categories for period/fantasy, contemporary and variety/non-fiction/reality. We also already know which episodes have been submitted and some of my favorite costumes from the year are included.

Of course there are shows/costume designers that have not been nominated, which I would’ve loved to see get recognition for costume design. Katie Irish for The Americans as she balances numerous disguises including an airline pilot and flight attendant and the Jennings at home. Irish does this all without screaming the ’80s at us. The episode Irish submitted also includes one of my favorite all time disguises and glasses influencer.  Also from the long list there is also Mari-An Ceo for the Bonnie and Clyde episode of Timeless and Laura Jean Shannon work on Good Girls Revolt. Yes I am still sad this show is cancelled. You can see the full list of shows submitted for the initial nomination process here.

I am thrilled to see Ane Crabtree up for The Handmaid’s Tale and we have been obsessed with Crabtree’s work since we started covering Masters of Sex, way back when. Also very excited to see Alix Friedberg nominated for Big Little Lies especially it is the finale with all the Audreys that has been submitted. And in finally getting recognized news; RuPaul’s Drag Race received a total of nine nominations including costume design!

Two of last year’s winners are nominated again and they are now in the same category; both are for different shows than their previous wins. Game of Thrones is not nominated this year (because it hasn’t aired yet) and Michele Clapton switches fantasy for period with The Crown. Lou Eyrich keeps with the Ryan Murphy team, but is nominated for Feud instead of American Horror Story. It is also interesting to note that both previous winners are up for projects based on real life figures. This category is truly stacked.

If Lou Eyrich does win, this will be her fourth triumph in a row.

One show that straddles categories is This is Us with both period and contemporary featuring. The episode submitted is the season finale, which does feature both flashback and present day and opting for the contemporary category obviously worked for them. But it is actually the period costumes that are my favorite.*

*Update! 

So the point I raised above was indeed an issue for the episode This is Us submitted and their nomination was revoked due to the rule that at least 51 precent of screen time must include contemporary costuming from a period of time covering the last 25 years. The episode “Moonshadow” had more than the allotted amount and House of Cards replaces This is Us in the contemporary category.

The full list of costume design nominations are here and congratulations to all on this list!Period/ Fantasy Costumes for a Series, Limited Series, or Movie

The Crown, “Wolferton Splash” – Michele Clapton, Alex Fordham, Emma O’Loughlin & Kate O’Farrell WINNER!
Feud: Bette and Joan, “And the Winner Is…” – Lou Eyrich, Hannah Jacobs & Katie Saunders
Genius, “Einstein: Chapter Seven” – Sonu Mishra, Martina Hejlová & Petia Krckova
The Handmaid’s Tale, “Offred (Pilot)” – Ane Crabtree & Sheena Wichary
Westworld, Trish Summerville, “The Original” – Lynda Foote & Jo Kissack FolsomContemporary Costumes for a Series, Limited Series or Movie

Big Little Lies, “You Get What You Need” – Alix Friedberg, Risa Garcia & Patricia McLaughlin WINNER!
Empire, “Light in Darkness” – Paolo Nieddu, Jennifer Salim & Mary Lane
Grace and Frankie, “The Art Show” – Allyson B. Fanger, Heather Pain & Lori DeLapp
House of Cards, “Chapter 61” – Johanna Argan, Kemal Harris, Jessica Wenger and Steffany Bernstein-Pratt
This is Us, “Moonshadow” – Hala Bahmet, Marina Ray & Elinor Bardach
Transparent, “To Sardines and Back” – Marie Schley, Hannah Schneider & Leslie HermanCostumes for Variety, Nonfiction or Reality Programming 
Dancing with the Stars, “Halloween Night” – Daniela Gschwendtner, Steven Norman Lee, Polina Roytman, Karina Torrico & Howard Sussman
Hairspray Live!,  Mary Vogt & Carolyn Dessert-Lauterio
Portlandia, “Carrie Dates a Hunk” – Amanda Needham, Jayme Hansen & Jordan Hamilton
RuPaul’s Drag Race, “Oh. My. Gaga!” -Zaldy Goco & Perry Meek WINNER!
Saturday Night Live, “Host: Emily Blunt” – Tom Broecker & Eric Justian

For the full list of Emmy nominations head here.

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A Non-Big Little Lies Season 2 Update and More from Variety’s Drama Discussion

21 Jun

Variety’s ‘A Night in the Writer’s Room’ is more of the kind of pre-Emmy nomination events that I get very excited about and this panel includes a lot of interesting shows (and one that doesn’t quite fit the pattern) covering network, cable and streaming. This in itself brings about the subject of the differences of working across these various platforms as several of these writers have experienced both the more traditional model and recent developments.

Also this is a good time to point out that the excellent Queen Sugar returned last night and Ava DuVernay talks about how this project came about. It includes a trip to Maui and I could listen to DuVernay chatting about this show for a long time.

A potential season 2 of Big Little Lies has been coming up a lot during these Emmy campaigning chats – I’m in agreement with Caroline Framke about why it should be a one and done series – and David E. Kelly is unsurprisingly non-committal saying it is all in the hands of author Liane Moriarty. He does have nothing but love for this entire project and set of characters. He also tells an amusing anecdote about how many pages director Jean-Marc Vallée likes to write with.

Both Mr Robot and Westworld had fans theorizing (and guessing correctly early on) so the question of fans guessing major twists is something that is addressed and whether streaming has an advantage here with how quick it gets consumed.

Watch the panel below.

Emmy nominations will be announced Thursday, July 13.

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Out of the Box: Look of the Week

31 Mar

On the “Out of the Box” menu this week we have more PaleyFest panels, lots of floral inspiration for spring, a good dollop of shimmer and a reunion that’s making me feel a lot of things.By now you will probably know how I feel about Evan Rachel Wood in a ladysuit – strongly positive – and this Cavalli is no different. The ruffled shirt is a fun twist and this overall vibe is a killer look that never gets old.Erdem florals for Thandie Newton mixing delightful levels of print (she put a bird on it) with a good level of shimmer and sparkle. This is a hard level of whimsy to work without falling into the too twee trap, but Newton is doing just that. Excellent PaleyFest panel attire from my fave Westworld robots.More botanicals and both Kirsten Dunst and Charlize Theron are in Gucci at CinemaCon; they’re different enough prints to not feel like they’re matching and yet there’s an element of coordinating (especially when you factor in the strappy heels). Kirsten Dunst also went to a Britney show this week and this Instagram post is everything. This week’s column includes a whole lot of the TV Ate My Wardrobe style ultimates and Jessica Chastain is ticking the rocks a lot of polka dots box in Givenchy with added ruffles. The real bonus here is the yellow pumps, which are fabulous.Uzo Aduba gives great black and white ensemble at the 2017 Garden Of Laughs Comedy Benefit; her clutch is very cute, but I would love to see Jessica Chastain’s yellow pumps with this look instead.A very busy time for Alison Wright at the moment as she’s crushing it (and me in the process) on Feud, making surprise appearances and performing on Broadway. At the Sweat opening night party she looks incredible in a Balmain mini dress and continues to give me so much eyebrow arch envy.Wednesday afternoon involved a whole lot of feelings when Entertainment Weekly unleashed their Buffy the Vampire reunion cover story and this shot of Amber Benson, Alyson Hannigan and Seth Green is too much to handle without taking a moment.

The general styling for this shoot was different variations on black attire and each ensemble did a good job of matching the character they played without falling into any Bad Buffy Outfit traps. #Slay

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Best of TV 2016: The Best Songs

29 Dec

End of year lists can focus on various things – performances, costumes, episodes, overall show – and one of my favorite things to look back at is the best use of music on TV. Song can transport us to those all important standout moments or introduce us to new music; over the last few years I have compiled playlists from TV to celebrate this. Last year I focused a single show as You’re the Worst is particularly strong in the end credit department, whereas in previous years I have done a general playlist of the year in TV music.

For 2016 I have returned to the latter format going all in with 28-tracks and you can find the full breakdown and playlist over at Collider. fleabagSongs and music from 21-shows were chosen with some getting two tracks (including the above Fleabag) because I just couldn’t chose and a variety of genres feature. There are songs to dance to, induce tears and all other kinds of emotions and I’m really happy with how it turned out.

You can find instrumental pieces from Westworld and Game of Thrones, tracks that have appeared on “Music Monday” from the melancholy to fun cover versions. Mr. Robot was messy in season 2, but nailed the soundtrack once again and shows like Atlanta and Crazy Ex-Girlfriend have music ingrained into the very fabric. You will find songs from The Americans, Halt and Catch Fire, Girls, Black Mirror and American Crime Story as well as a literal earworm from BrainDead. Plus many, many more.

Costuming is my first love, but soundtracks is a close second and I am so glad I got to compile such an extensive playlist and discuss the best of 2016 over at Collider. Check it out here and get your dance on.

[Source]

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Best of TV Costuming 2016: Work in Other Places

22 Dec

So 2016 has been bit of an emotional roller coaster on a large global scale and a personal one with moments of so much joy and immense sadness.

Writing wise this has been my best year yet as I finally got over my pitching fears (well, mostly) and have a weekly TV and Style column at The Observer where I have discussed numerous shows and costume moments beginning with Girls back in February. I have also contributed to Collider with several Americans essays and a TV themed gift guide (still time to buy!).

Here is a selection of my favorite pieces of work from 2016 including a personal essay, topics I have been obsessed with for a long time, discussing so many different shows from this year (with a dash of the ’90s) and I also got to interview two amazing costume designers.Outlander Season 2 2016Kicking off with the essay that was incredibly hard to write, but also gave me great comfort after my father passed away in July. I got married in September and in the lead up I knew it would be a very happy day tinged with sadness and writing about Outlander, my father and our shared heritage helped.

I don’t tend to be someone who is good with sharing my deepest feelings and personal essays are an uneasy prospect: however connecting to the work of Terry Dresbach and the Outlander team led to an outpouring of words.the americansI wrote about The Americans a lot in 2016 both here and other places. I spoke to costume designer Katie Irish at the start of the fourth season about Coach, the many coats and other costume design disguise secrets.

For Collider I went deep about Elizabeth Jennings and motherhood, why the teens on this show don’t fall into the usual annoying obstacle trap and looked at how the Cold War is making a comeback on TV (this was before other significant events).westworldOne of the most fulfilling experiences of 2016 was talking to Westworld costume designer Ane Crabtree after the season finale. Part of this is because I have been writing about Crabtree’s work since TV Ate My Wardrobe started with Masters of Sex and because of all the anecdotes and insight I got from this phone conversation.fleabagOne of the first pieces I wrote on TV Ate My Wardrobe was about lipstick on TV/film and I expanded upon this idea while discussing the Empire CoverGirl line and how powerful make-up can be.

Other key lipstick essays include two of my favorite shows of the year with how Fleabag paints over the cracks and the portrayal of women working in the tech industry in the ’80s on Halt and Catch Fire. And the time jump on Halt and Catch Fire allowed me to address my own nostalgia and one of my favorite style decades.img_4381In a similar vein, but at the end of the scale the build up to new Gilmore Girls was the perfect time to address all the fashion mishaps of the early ’00s.

BrainDead is one of my favorite shows of the year for being fun, weird, having so much flames chemistry and rethinking how to do a “previously on.” Plus it gave me so many outfit goals and I got to expand on this further here. game-of-thronesAnd now for my most viewed article, which also happens to be one of my favorite costume moments of the year when Sansa made sure Jon knew he was family by making him a very Ned fur.

Also on the subject of Game of Thrones I previewed the “Battle of the Bastards” with a ‘Who wore it better?’ competition and went all in on Cersei’s power move ensemble.

On the pieces I have wanted to write about forever track; Angela singing on Mr. Robot let me go all in on the sadness karaoke essay that has been itching to come out since Eliza sang “Chandelier” on Selfie.

The second season of Mr. Robot was messy in places, but the women delivered and it gave me plenty to write about from a costuming perspective. Oh and everyone looks hotter in sunglasses as the Fug Girls always say.felicity-and-marciaA tale of two haircuts and I am very proud of finding a very strong link between Keri Russell’s infamous Felicity haircut and Marcia Clark’s mid-trial makeover. American Crime Story’s “Marcia, Marcia, Marcia” is one of my favorite episodes of TV this year and exploring the legacies of a style change was incredibly fulfilling.

I binged the first season of Crazy Ex-Girlfriend the week after my dad died and it was a much needed distraction so I will forever be grateful for Rachel Bloom and Rebecca Bunch. Season 2 has also provided some very interesting talking points including portrayals of lady friendships and makeovers. Plus Rebecca’s imagination delivers on plenty of fun costume changes.

Here’s to more in 2017 and for my author pages at The Observer and Collider head here and here.

For individual costume highlights check out Best of the Rest Parts 1 and 2.

 

 

 

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Best of TV Costuming 2016: Best of the Rest Part 2

20 Dec

Welcome to TV Ate My Wardrobe’s “Best of 2016” costuming series and rather than doing a straightforward countdown we’re going to do a variety of posts that look at which costumes and shows have made a huge impact this year. From items we want in our own wardrobe to pieces that got everyone talking; we want to celebrate the work of television’s best costume designers.

First up we took a look at our best show of the year and how the Jennifer disguise on The Americans points to Elizabeth’s emotional journey. This was followed by the first part of the “Best of the Rest” list, which featured costumes from Game of Thrones, Stranger Things, Halt and Catch Fire, Broad City and Good Girls Revolt. Today we will be adding to this with some standout costume moments from some of our other favorite shows of the year including Fleabag, Outlander, Crazy Ex-Girlfriend, Jane the Virgin and Westworld.

For a slightly different end of year ‘Best of’ that I am taking part in check out the Observer tvDownload Superlatives series kicking off with Cutest Couple, Most Improved and Class Clown.fleabagLike Looking in My Own Wardrobe Award

Fleabag is a Top 3 show of the year and it tops the ‘comedy that is also a gut-punch‘ category. Phoebe Waller-Bridge’s character (also Fleabag) also happens to dress pretty much as I do with stripes and collars like the one above (which bears a strong resemblance to my Twitter profile pic) dominate my own wardrobe. This is a pretty self-centered award.

The lipstick used on the show – “Dare You” by MAC – is now in my collection and also featured on the Gift Guide I produced for Collider.timelessBiggest Range 

On Timeless they travel to different decades and centuries with very little time to prepare so it makes sense to have racks of clothes from different periods on hand. Getting a peek at the way their costume department is laid out is a fun meta nod to the IRL costuming team and so far their missions have included Union garb, WWII era ensembles, berets, Bonnie & Clyde styling, ’60s, ’70s and revolutionary attire. westworldMost Exciting Wardrobe Change

There wasn’t much room for character clothing changes on Westworld so when Dolores ditched her blue dress for the more appropriate cowgirl pants look I definitely clapped my hands. This costume by Ane Crabtree also proved to be quite symbolic romantically in regards to Dolores’ relationship with William and was another key to the mystery of Westworld.Best Non-Cowboy Cowboy

iZombie was one of my favorite catch-ups of the year and this very fun show gets to mess around with costuming thanks to the brains Liv ingests. In “Even Cowgirls Get the Black and Blues” Ravi plays the supportive friend as Liv embarks on a brief singing career and he very much dresses the part.OutlanderFanciest Gown

Outlander went all out in season 2 in the incredible gown department to match the lavish French location and this dress by costume designer Terry Dresbach was used as part of the striking promotional material; it was somehow even more jaw dropping in the second episode of the season “Not in Scotland Anymore.”the-crown-1-08Most on Point Accessory 

Quite literally as Princess Margaret is wielding a sword in this scene from episode 8 “Pride & Joy” of The Crown. The Crown is Netflix’s most expensive TV series to date and it is quite clear as to why from what we see on screen.

The costuming by Game of Thrones maestro Michele Clapton is exquisite from the intricate formal gowns to the more casual looks such as the blouse and skirt combo in the above scene. The way lighting is used in this shot is equally impressive and everything Margaret was the most compelling part of this first season.img_4201Wardrobe Most Coveted 

BrainDead is a special show that barely anyone watched; it was the kind of show 2016 needed and in a way it makes sense that is over after one season. The chemistry between Mary Elizabeth Winstead and Aaron Tveit earned all the flames emojis I used when talking about this show, it was funny, weird and had the most bizarre sex scene I have seen on TV.

Laurel also had a closet full of pattern clashing delights, super cool office wear, pussy bow blouses, blazers and ankle boots. All of which I would like in my own wardrobe and The Good Wife’s costume designer Daniel Lawson continues to crush the jacket game. img_3696Best Kroll Show Tribute 

Krystal was a new clone on Orphan Black last year and she appeared on the 2015 version of this list because of the Kroll Show influence; technically this is a repeat, but I miss Kroll Show’s PubLIZity. Plus, Tatiana Maslany is so good in this role (as she is in all of them) giving Krystal so much personality while also nodding to the original influence particularly in her choice of drink. Most Dapper 

So technically this is a 2015 TV moment, however this amazing song and dance number from Crazy Ex-Girlfriend scores a place because I only caught up with this show in 2016. In a very hard week in July I sat down and binged the first season and TV really is the best distraction.

Crazy Ex-Girlfriend takes inspiration from numerous genres; on this occasion looking to Fred and Ginger in styling as Greg proposes an offer to Rebecca. The whole sequence blends the funny with the charming and it also won an Emmy for the choreography for this song (and I’m So Good at Yoga” and “A Boy Band Made Up of Four Joshes”).img_4650Dangerous Yoga Position 

This year I also finally watched all of Gilmore Girls in preparation for the big revival Gilmore Girls: A Year in the Life. One of the main highlights in this new batch of episodes as well as in the original series is Paris Geller; her bathroom meltdown including this impressive in heels maneuver almost made up for the Rory Gilmore’s stunted character growth.

 

Show That Made Me Want to Watch Rear Window

Okay so Rear Window is on my most watched list (I find it weirdly soothing and is my ultimate bedtime movie) and the Jane the Virgin midseason finale looks to Hitchcock as part of the fantasy sequences. Where Crazy Ex-Girlfriend understands a huge range of music genres better than any other show on at the moment, Jane the Virgin is an expert in storytelling techniques using this to explore Jane’s creativity and expand on the telenovela.

As you can see from the outfits above, costume designer Rachel Sage Kunin has got the Kelly and Grant thing down (even if I’m more partial to Kelly and Stewart).]

For more from the TV Ate My Wardrobe Best of 2016 series head here.

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