Archive | April, 2018

The Americans 6.05 “The Great Patriotic War” Review: Trying Your Best

26 Apr

The Americans pilot opens with Elizabeth in a bar wearing the first of many wigs, sidling up to a government employee, who she then extracts some information with the power of a blow job. Sex on this show has always been a tool in the spy manipulation arsenal, a signature move if you will. What “The Great Patriotic War” does is showcase how sex complicates things, as well as underscoring why Philip didn’t want Paige to become embroiled in this work.

Paige is getting exposed to everything Elizabeth reassured her husband that she wouldn’t; she has seen her mother covered in the blood and brains of someone else, now she is using her sexuality to get information (despite Elizabeth forbidding her to do so). And at this point Paige still doesn’t know how to separate the personal from the professional, something her parents occasionally have an issue with.The reappearance of Kimmy last week means a return the parallels that ran throughout season three between the two teens.  Back to a time Philip was doing everything in his power not to sleep with a girl that was pretty much the same age as his daughter. And his tactics worked. “Jim” became a surrogate father type for Kimmy, even while Philip struggled at parenting his own inquisitive daughter. Kimmy has gone from typically rebellious teen with daddy issues to a stable, well-adjusted young woman. She even quit smoking weed two years ago.

The things Philip says to her about being proud are true, even if he is using it as a tool for manipulation. To finally get her into bed. I pretty much watched that scene in the car through my fingers, knowing what was going to happen next. Kimmy is no longer underage, but it is still creepy as fuck. Watching Philip steel himself for that inevitable is crushing, right now he will do anything that Elizabeth asks of him because she really hasn’t asked for a lot and he can see how much the work is grinding her down. And the plan works. Kimmy smiles, while Philip grimaces. How he has he found himself back here?

Elizabeth’s plan to get Philip to plant drugs on Kimmy in a Communist country is hardly fool proof. They don’t even know whether Kimmy’s dad will give the information they need. Considering how well Elizabeth’s operations have been going this season, it is highly likely that he wouldn’t. Elizabeth is trying her best with what she has, but what she has is not amounting to much. She can’t even get her art homework done. It is such a weird moment to see her get rebuked by someone else. Erica continues to needle Elizabeth in a way we haven’t seen since Young-Hee. But Erica’s condition continues to get graver; will she end up with nothing here too? Thomas Schlamme directed “The Great Patriotic War,” his sixth outing behind the camera on The Americans. And interestingly enough he also directed “Dimebag;” the episode in which Philip came up with using Paige’s interest in Christianity to solve his horny Kimmy issue. Featuring a scene with Philip and Elizabeth at their most lighthearted, getting stoned and giggling over prayer suggestions. As with any moment in this show, there is still a level of darkness; Philip notes that when she gets older he might have to sleep with her. Prophetic words it turns out.

But Philip can’t go through with the plan, even after he has crossed the physical intimacy line. Every episode this season has delivered those Emmy-worthy moments, but I can’t get over the phone call Philip makes to Kimmy. He’s out of disguise, which brings another level to it, as he tells Kimmy he can’t go to Greece. Philip has fucked her, but he can’t take the risk of fucking with her life. They have already destroyed too many people in the name of their country. Too many kids.

Elizabeth notes Kimmy is no longer a kid, legally she isn’t. But she is still a young person with a bright future ahead of her. There is no way he can control Paige’s path, but he can with Kimmy. What he is risking is huge; his entire relationship with Elizabeth could rest on this (oh and the fact he is going behind her back with Oleg), but he does it anyway.Both Matthew Rhys and Julia Garner crush the emotion of this scene. Garner because Kimmy has just been told the person she has wanted for a long time will no longer be in her life, Philip because he is “trying his best.” He got a taste of the spy life again and it was not good, but the tipping point comes after Stan is a lot more loose lipped than he has been in the past. Coming over for a beer after a hard day at work used to be the norm, now Stan rarely does this. Stan tells him about the double-murder and the 7 year-old boy that got to see the bloody aftermath of Elizabeth’s handiwork. Even without knowing Elizabeth did it, Philip *knows* Elizabeth did it. Another kid impacted by the work.

Elizabeth and Claudia’s Russian history lesson for Paige this week centers on the Great Patriotic War aka WWII; they underscore just how much the Soviet Union lost in comparison to the U.S. (400,000 to 27 million), the battle that changed everything (Stalingrad, not D-Day) and the poverty that followed (Elizabeth mentions eating rats). The history book erasure is a valid point. They suffered, they died, they won. But this doesn’t justify what Elizabeth has been doing this season. How every operation and episode has added to the body count. Each death has come as a result of operations not going to plan; Elizabeth attempts her “got a light?” (how very Twin Peaks) tactic again, this time she is interrupted.Plan B involves going up the fire escape and into Gennadi’s safe house. A plan that would have been fool proof if Stan hadn’t succeeded in getting Sofia to give Gennadi another chance. Elizabeth goes to exit the kitchen, first hiding behind the fridge, then the door. But she is spotted, there is only one way out of this building for Elizabeth alive; another bloody mess bringing her work back in the orbit of Stan.

Also in the orbit of Stan is Oleg, but he gets a different visitor asking exactly what he is doing back in the US. One-time love interest Tatiana approaches as a friend, but when Oleg uses study as the reason he is here, she loses her shit. She is mad that he used the information she gave him about the bio-weapons, costing her career. She has been stuck in the same position ever since, her star was previously on the rise. Tatiana calls him a traitor and later at the Rezidentura she underscores how little he can be trusted, putting his life in danger. It doesn’t feel like things are going to end well for Oleg.This episode clocks in at just under 60 minutes, currently some shows unnecessarily extend their run-time (shout-out to Kathryn VanArendonk’s A+ piece about this trend), this is not one of those cases. Thomas Schlamme makes very scene feel worth it, every word by writer Hilary Bettis is earned, the performances from top to bottom are fantastic. In a long list of very good Americans episodes, “The Great Patriotic War” is up there with the best. And we are only halfway through the season.

There is a fluidity in the way the camera moves, whether it is capturing Elizabeth’s daring Gennadi plot, moving from hiding place to hiding place or the closest The Americans has come to a walk and talk scene. Instead it is walk and argue starting with Paige essentially yelling “You’re not the boss of me” at her mother in the garage, then Philip and Elizabeth carrying on this heated discussion moving from the kitchen, to the stairs and then the bedroom.Elizabeth’s “it’s none of your business” retort to her husband about who Paige is sleeping with is also very teen like, but she goes from being incredibly defensive to accepting that Philip was right about Paige not being cut out for this business. But this is not what he said, he reiterates this by saying “She can do it, my point was always that she shouldn’t.” This argument starts because Paige lost her cool in a bar, a super skeezy guy laid his hands on her so she reacted. But this was impulsive, drawing unwanted attention that could put the entire family in danger. It is also worth noting that Paige’s surprise visit interrupts a tense debriefing scene after Philip gets back from his Kimmy trip, every conversation in this sequence feels unfinished and emotionally charged.

Right now Paige feels empowered. So while Elizabeth is out murdering more people (albeit she does it without drawing attention to herself), Philip swings by Paige’s apartment to find out just how much she knows about fighting. And to teach her an important lesson.What Philip gets is another case of Paige acting superior as she tells him “I know you’re not into what me and mom do.” Like he doesn’t share an interest in their hobby. Instead Philip tells her to come at him, his hand still in his pocket nonchalantly as she quips about how they don’t have pads. Again the contempt in his voice is impossible to ignore (again it is delicious to hear) as he notes “There aren’t really pads in the real world.”

He pulls some moves out of the bag, easily putting her into a choke hold. This moment is Philip giving her a vital teaching moment, to make sure she doesn’t feel invincible, but he still looks incredibly disgusted at himself. As he does multiple times in this episode.Before Kimmy, the murders, Paige being a know-it-all; Philip and Elizabeth do experience something we haven’t seen all season, real physical intimacy. For a brief moment they are back to how they were. Last week it almost happened, but Elizabeth rolled away from her husband.

Schlamme previously directed one of the most intimate Philip and Elizabeth scenes, thankfully this time there is no tooth pulling. Here the only thing getting removed (on camera) is Elizabeth’s earrings. The camera moves from a static shot to overhead as they lean into each other, then lying down on the bed. The calculator beeps causing Elizabeth to laugh, it is good moment. Cut to a now familiar setting the next day; Elizabeth smoking outside with Philip coming out to see him. But there is a lightness, a spring is his step* as he notes that he hasn’t slept that well in ages with Elizabeth joking “I wonder why.” She still hasn’t slept well, the reason probably has something to do with what follows in the kitchen, as she asks him to go to Greece because without the Kimmy tapes she’s screwed. Sex again comes into focus as a manipulation tool; was Elizabeth just doing this so Philip would bend to her will.

*A nice costume detail here is that Philip hasn’t put his sneakers on properly because he isn’t going to wearing them for long. Also the brr noise he makes is the most adorable.

This is far more complicated than the many people they have slept with for information. Yes part of her probably did this to make him more compliant, but they have both been lacking and yearning for this connection. Paige thinks it is ridiculous that she would ever sleep with someone she didn’t like, Philip and Elizabeth know this feeling all too well. And it is not like they are fucking the empty void in the couch as Elizabeth’s first paramour ended up doing.

This will be the end of it for Philip, if he just did what Elizabeth asked, but he can’t and it isn’t. With just five episodes left it looks like things will come crashing down for this relationship before the Berlin Wall does. But part of me still believes they will come back together for each other, but I can’t see a happy ending. It is The Americans, after all.

Dream PhoneOther than this being a crushing scene for character reasons it also reminded me that I really wanted a phone like this when I was growing up. I did not get it.

Costume wish list

What better way to dress up a shirt than with a collar pin. Paige is crushing the style stakes this season, even as she finds out about the very bad things that happened to the Soviet Union during WWII.

Drinking Tips Claudia and Elizabeth give Paige a lesson in how to drink more; have a shot of olive oil before you start. Holly Taylor does not recommend this. Also I now very much want to get drunk with Claudia (and Margo Martindale).

Family Portrait 
A point I keep returning to is how well the Jennings’ house is used in times of harmony and discord. And that they have an excellent production design department. The pictures on the wall reinforce this notion of family; showing what is always at stake.

Out of the Box: Look of the Week

20 Apr

After last week’s pink suit extravaganza, Look of the Week and spring fashion is a bit more eclectic. Lots of bold patterns, some fabulous ladysuits and sequin delights. Behold! Regular (or even not so regular) readers will not be surprised to see me kick off this week with Busy and Michelle. At the I Feel Pretty premiere, Busy looks incredible in sparkly Christian Siriano. Siriano, as Busy shared on her Stories also provided the dress for her sister.

Meanwhile, I wish Michelle’s Louis Vuitton was a jumpsuit rather than a witchy dress. The collar is reminiscent of this LV dress she wore at the SAG awards last year, but I like this detail more on this occasion even if the sequin SAG frock is better.

Also while I’m on the subject of I Feel Pretty, this by Alison Herman is an interesting look at Amy Schumer’s career trajectory.
I am never not going to love a sequin mini dress, especially when Natalie Morales is the one in it. I just finished season two of Santa Clarita Diet, this show and Morales are so much fun. I liked season one, but it has really found its weirdo voice. I hope there is more to come.Evan Rachel Wood is Queen of the Ladysuits; she does not disappoint in this very beige, very ’70s looking Altuzzara ensemble. Also opting for a vibe from my fave style decade is Thandie Newton in patterned and peplum Osman.

Really looking forward to see these ladies tear show shit up on season two of Westworld.Hello, handsome. James Marsden is coordinating with the carpet and showing how to pattern clash in style.Carrying on the crush theme with Jimmi Simspon; I adore him and those clear frames. This is also a fun and different suit choice for spring.I finally saw A Quiet Place and I am thankful for Krasinski’s beard/knitwear in this movie, as it gave me something to focus on instead of the intense dread levels. What a movie. Emily Blunt delivered reactions to destroy me on every level and it is nice seeing them having a lovely time on the red carpet.

This is at Variety’s Power of Women‘ event, where Blunt was being honored. Blunt wears floral Prada, which has a surprising touch of sequins on the shoulders. Also getting honored was Viola Davis, wearing her fave shade of pink (it looks great on her) in Pamella Roland; more peplum and it would appear that 2012 is making a comeback. I’m not sure how I feel like this on the whole, but Davis looks fabulous. Sandra Oh gives great casual outfit heading into Jimmy Kimmel Live! I am a little obsessed with sweats like this at the moment. In fact I would wear this entire outfit.And now for what Sandra Oh wore on the show. This is a great jumpsuit; Oh looks chic as hell (sorry, Reynolds Woodcock). This also reminds me that I still need to watch Killing Eve.

Get yourself someone who can do both casual and fancy. It was the Scandal series finale last night (things were handled, great clothes were worn), but earlier this week Kerry Washington attended Eva Longoria’s Star ceremony in a killer outfit.

Houndstooth appeared from time to time in Olivia Pope’s wardrobe, but she would not have worn something as colorful as this Oscar de la Renta frock. Sunglasses give it a daytime glam feel and I am head over heels for this look.

The Americans 6.04 “Mr. and Mrs. Teacup” Review: Staying the Same

19 Apr

Nothing lasts forever, things move on, regimes change. The final season of The Americans is hurtling towards the end of the Cold War; those who want to see progress are being met with resistance. The Berlin Wall is still up, but everything around Philip and Elizabeth is crumbling. Elizabeth’s body count continues to grow, not only that but she is yet to yield any significant results. The radiation sensor continues to be her white whale, she is tired all the time. The anchor of this show is this relationship, right now all is not well in this area either. The marriage is adrift.

No, Elizabeth doesn’t want a beer (though she could probably do with having one).Philip is having a hard time with his version of the American Dream. Instead of looking sad about his spy work, he’s looking increasingly glum at the paperwork that just doesn’t add up. In a catch-up with Stan he waxes philosophical about business, why there is this incessant need to grow. Philip is not so good at this capitalism thing, he likes the idea of staying the same. Stan mentions how his father used to say “The more you want, the more you get.” But the reality is very different. Just because you want something, doesn’t mean you’ll get it.

Later Elizabeth jokingly asks—yes there are still some lighter moments in the dark, much like Elizabeth’s drawing lesson—whether Philip is rich yet, his “I wish” response is tinged with regret.Opposition to progress in relations between the US and Soviet Union is partly because a section of those in charge want the dynamic to stay the same. Oleg mentions that some worry they won’t be Communists anymore if any deal transpires. An identity crisis. In this sense, Philip is caught between these two ideologies. And he always has been. Elizabeth knows who she is, how she feels about this country. But Philip has fallen for aspects of this American life. The only time he has looked generally at ease this season is while he is line dancing with his staff, but his business is on shaky ground. Elizabeth thinks he will figure things out, he is not so sure.

The episode closes with Philip at his desk surrounded by papers, thinking back to the scraps he used to eat as a kid. His face as he contemplates his sandwich suggests his distaste for the capitalist cycle he has found himself caught up in, but even with this financial peril it is still a much better scenario than the poverty he grew up in. But there is always a fear that he could return to that, the real possibility that he could lose everything.If Paige is mirroring her mother, then Henry is very much his father’s son. He has the ‘soul getting crushed into a million pieces’ face down after Philip tells him they might not have enough money for boarding school next year. There is plenty of time to turn it around, but Philip seems pretty resigned at the moment. This episode is also sponsored by deep sighs of pretty much every character. The split in the Jennings family is felt most in the scenes where the kids are being discusses.

Philip is appalled that Paige has seemingly got over the whole seeing her mother covered in another man’s brains thing. They have already moved onto the next thing. He also doesn’t hide his scorn for Paige parroting her mother’s “sometimes bad things happen in the world” line. The way Matthew Rhys says “the world” is dripping with contempt and it is delicious. The things Philip has seen, he doesn’t need his daughter acting so high and mighty, like he doesn’t know. An argument is brewing, but Philip leaves before one can start saying there is no point. This feels far more unsettling than if they did have a blowout shouting match.It isn’t all pointed conversations, there is a long overdue moment of intimacy. They actually touch each other for the first time this season. Not only that, but Philip tells Elizabeth about the financial trouble their business is in—of course Elizabeth doesn’t know the names of the new staff—and she shares just how tired she is. A tender kiss fills in this void, the ache returns when Elizabeth rolls over. There is only so much sharing Elizabeth can do, she is not the talker. Sex used to be how they worked out their frustrations with each other or this job, not right now. Girl just wants to sleep.

We don’t know exactly what reason they gave Paige about why Philip quit, but Elizabeth reinforces the notion that Philip still loves them; however this job gets too much for some, even the best. Elizabeth is showing signs of this herself. Keri Russell continues to show Elizabeth’s exhaustion in the labored way she moves at home, the look on her face when she realizes she didn’t get any intel from the World Series opportunity—it is always fun to see their safe house/wig cave spaces. Ultimately, Emmys don’t really matter and yet I’m going to so annoyed if Keri Russell or Matthew Rhys don’t win for this final season.Even in heavy disguise, Rhys shows the exact moment Philip weighs up betraying his wife for his country. He weighs up everything Oleg says realizing that her loyalty could be manipulated by those seeking to stall progress. There is an rapport between these two men; they are both risking so much, but sadly this will be the last time they can meet in person as Oleg is being monitored by the FBI. The FBI resources are stretched thin, but it isn’t worth the risk.The information Philip gives is passed on by Oleg to his father using a code over the phone. Igor then delivers the message to Arkady. Here we find out that everything Igor has told his son about how everyone is doing, is a lie. They are fraught with worry about the mission Oleg is part of. Arkady tells Igor the reason why Oleg wants to do something that matters is because of him; this is his legacy, in a corrupt system Igor has instilled a sense of honor in his son to do the greater good, no matter the risk.

Legacy is something that came up last week when Elizabeth was talking to Paige about why she isn’t afraid of dying for this cause. It is bigger than her. This notion of what we leave behind is mentioned again, but this time in the form of Erica’s art. Erica is in a regretful mood, wondering why she even bothered. She wishes she had spent more time with her husband—will Elizabeth ever leave the work for her family? Which legacy is more important? Elizabeth exploits this vulnerability to get intel on the Russians working on the negotiations. It would be a sweet suggestion, if it wasn’t so calculated. It doesn’t work anyway, as Erica is far too sick to be out of the house.The information Elizabeth got from Evan (RIP) is used to break into the warehouse, but the shit really hits the fan. Well what we can see of it. This sequence involves flashes of light; from Elizabeth’s gun, flashlights and it is incredibly disorientating. I get what they are going for, but I would like to see a little bit more. Elizabeth makes it out just in time, empty handed once again. This pretty much sums up her work this season.

Claudia gives her yet another mission; the teacups of the episode title. They don’t feature this week, but Elizabeth has been tasked with getting rid of Gennadi,as his defection will be a propaganda gold mine for the Americans. This puts her back in Stan’s orbit as he is still being used as a counselor of sorts for the pair, much to his annoyance. He can’t quite get rid of this pesky pair. Elizabeth is looking to make sure he never has to hear from them again. Putting her team on Stan, Elizabeth makes sure that Julie aka Paige is nowhere near this operation because Stan would quickly ID her. Paige, is undertaking her own little spy op as she hooked up with the guy that her mother told her not to. Using sex to get information is not part of the grand plan for Paige. Sadly for Elizabeth, it doesn’t look like she is going to keep her out of this side of the spy biz after all.

Earlier in the episode, Elizabeth tells Paige how proud she is and this validation is all Paige needs. I have a feeling we might see the Emmy forehead vein when Elizabeth finds out about this extracurricular activity.While I’m on the subject of teens, Kimmy is back! And she might not be a teen anymore. Kimmy is at college, so the opportunity to switch out the tapes is limited and it doesn’t help that she won’t be coming back before the summit. Instead she is going on vacation to Greece with her friends, not if Elizabeth has a say in things she won’t. Kimmy notes Philip’s sadness, saying he is stuck. An apt description of where Philip is right now.

Teens in Jeans

More amazing ’80s jeans to add to Henry and Paige’s pairs. I am thrilled Julia Garner is back on this show. The Kimmy storyline has always walked the incredibly uncomfortable line, but I love her trajectory from troubled teen to grounded college student. In a twisted way, Philip is a big part of that.

Pattern Clashing Superstar 

As Philip’s business woes get bigger, his pattern clashing levels go up. Here he wears pinstripe, window pane check and paisley.

No Man is an Island

I’ve talked about the use of the kitchen in the Jennings house a lot; the island this season is being utilized as a visual and physical barrier (see also the first photo at the top).

To watch the Times Talk full video with Keri Russell, Matthew Rhys and co-showrunner Joel Fields, head here.

The Americans Times Talk Panel (Video)

15 Apr

It isn’t quite Emmy roundtable season* yet, but TV panels aren’t just for awards campaigning. The Times Talks series delivers a fascinating discussion about The Americans featuring Keri Russell, Matthew Rhys and co-showrunner Joel Fields. This is ideal Sunday viewing for me on a Sunday of excellent viewing (see also Beychella and John Mulaney on SNL).

*I am convinced thanks to this photo of Evan Rachel Wood and Rachel Brosnahan that Emmy related stuff is occurring

And as it is the final season there is an element of celebrating the show, while also remembering that there are still seven episodes to enjoy. Everything from the current political climate, writing process to disguise highlights is covered (including one that seems to have made Russell horny af). As with a lot of Americans panels it is insightful, while keeping things mostly light despite the heavy subject material.

Elizabeth’s high body count comes up; Russell talks about how difficult it has been playing Elizabeth at the start of this season and how she reconciles these elements. There is also an amazing impression of Beloved Character Actress Margo Martindale by Matthew Rhys and Keri Russell (skip to just past the hour mark for that).

As this is the final season there will likely be more of these (including the ATX Festival) and hopefully Russell and Rhys will be taking part in Emmy roundtable season.

And let’s hope the Hart to Hart reboot becomes a thing. Even the miserable version.

Out of the Box: Look of the Week

13 Apr

Pink, patterns and things that sparkle are all on the “Out of the Box” agenda this week. Despite the overcast view from my window, I am so ready for all things spring fashion.

Emmy nomination campaigning has begun; new shows are being promoted while other stars are celebrating the end of their long-running series. Plus, there is the 29th Annual GLAAD Media Awards, checking in with Harry Styles on tour and some magazine covers.  My resolution to not buy a new issue until I have read the previous one has not panned out well. *looks at the unread stack and weeps*The women of American Horror Story give great pattern clashing while standing together at a recent FYC event—this is technically last week, but whatever. Sarah Paulson and Leslie Grossman both in animal print Carolina Herrera, while Adina Porter is in a fabulous geometric pattern frock from the Tracee Ellis Ross collection.

Panel attire is something I have discussed a lot of the years here on the blog and you can really go in a lot of different directions. What the AHS ladies have done is coordinate without being too matchy matchy. Killing Eve is very much on my To Watch list; created by Phoebe Waller-Bridge and starring Sandra Oh and Jodi Comer. Here they are attending the 1st Cannes International Series Festival to promote the show.

All three looks are perfect for the French setting (I won’t be using the word chic, because Reynolds Woodcock); Waller-Bridge in wide-legged pants and caped sleeve double-breasted ladysuit, a floral jumpsuit for Comer and Oh wears a mix of black tulle and fur. There is a mix of romance and whimsy across the board.Also taking the pink suit to the next level is Busy Philipps in velvet Anaïs Jourden to match the Three Olives Rosé Vodka she is sipping, as part of an endorsement deal. And if you haven’t read Allie Jones’ excellent profile of Philipps from last week then what are you waiting for?The pink suit theme continues with Adam Rippon, looking incredibly sharp (even without socks) at the GLAAD Media Awards.Obsessed with everything Queer Eye and the Fab Five at the moment—including this wonderful collection of reactions from Reddit at The Cut. It is honestly so great to see something so positive on TV and all over my Instagram feed. Karamo Brown also did the black shirt/bow tie combo, which works really well with this jacquard three piece stunner.

Brooklyn Nine-Nine won best comedy—Rosa’s coming out as bisexual storyline has been a highlight of the season—and Stephanie Beatriz is deservedly holding the award. This B99 quote from Beatriz’s speech is worth repeating:

“Every time someone steps up and says who they are, the world becomes a better and more interesting place.”I am on a self-imposed stripe buying ban until June (which is also part of a bet) so instead I have been buying a lot of polka dots. Luckily for me, polka dots are big this spring in stores and on the red carpet; Chelsea Peretti’s frock looks perfect for cocktails, dancing and celebrating media that is inclusive in its representation of the LGBTQ+ community.

For the full list of winners head here.The Scandal farewell tour is in full swing (the series finale is next week) and while I have dipped in and out of these last few seasons, I am excited to see how it will all end for Olivia Pope.

Kerry Washington combines the pink and sparkly trends in a super romantic Erdem on The Tonight Show with a big dash of ’70s inspired disco hair courtesy of hairstylist Takisha Sturdivant-Drew.Let’s take a moment to see what Harry Styles is wearing on tour. You guessed it; another Gucci stunner. And it’s pink and sparkly! Very on trend.

At the London date fans Ksenia Kulikova and Luna Riedel organized a massive light up rainbow tribute during “Sweet Creature.” Kulikova and Riedel run the London Rainbow Project and you can read more about this amazing moment at Teen Vogue.Another pink jacket! And for Marie Claire’s fifth annual Fresh Faces issue they have picked five actresses who represent why we should be excited by what is going on in Hollywood right now.

Each look is super colorful, Issa Rae gets the purple treatment and is serving up some ’80s office to the bar outfit realness in Céline. All five covers are fabulous—for Sophie Turner, Yara Shahidi, Riley Keough and Katherine Langford head here—and I will definitely be picking up this issue. The magazine stack grows ever higher.

The Americans 6.03 “Urban Transport Planning” Review: The Way We Were

12 Apr

Nostalgia is powerful as it can make us long for a time that was less than perfect. Change can be hard particularly when the place you long for no longer exists. This final season of The Americans encapsulates how romantic notions of where we came from can cloud perspective. Elizabeth and Claudia are teaching Paige about her Russian heritage, but Elizabeth is very much stuck in the past, clashing with the political progress being made. A collision course has been set and knowing the global outcome makes it is hard to not scream at Elizabeth to let go. Pizza Hut is indeed coming to Moscow.

Hatred for America still burns inside Elizabeth, the look on her face when Philip mentions serving zharkoye to Stan is a flicker of betrayal. Season five focused on food, but it has always been an important aspect of The Americans. It is a family-centric show, so naturally a lot of scenes take place in the kitchen; the heart of the home. It has been a long time since the tap has been left running or the radio switched on, this used to be a place where they talked work and family. Paige demanded to know the truth in this very room, it is where Philip tore Paige’s Bible, late night cigarettes and sex as salvation. The Jennings kitchen has seen it all.Philip and Elizabeth growing up in poverty means they are particularly attached to the small amount they had. It isn’t about what you liked and didn’t like or getting bored of eating the same thing—Paige, still so American—but appreciating what you had.

Elizabeth sneaks some leftovers to Philip, which he can only manage one bite of because he is stuffed full with takeout, which is very reflective of Philip’s push/pull between American culture with his home. Smell is very important when it comes to memory and this moment of connectivity between husband and wife fills this void. It also reads as a nod to the caviar surprise from the second episode of season one. Circumstances are very different; then they were truly getting to know each other on an intimate level, now they are adrift. For a brief moment it feels like it used to, the intimacy is back. But the food ends up down the garbage disposal and they have a bitter back and forth about the state of the world.

The shift in body language goes from pointing toward each other to standing apart. Philip doesn’t think Elizabeth can speak for people back home as she hasn’t spoken to anyone there in over twenty years, her retort of “neither have you” is met with a weighty silence. This would be the time to tell her about Oleg, but he just can’t do. Philip clearly fears whatever Elizabeth is working on and her passion to do whatever needs to be done. Later he contemplates it while brushing his teeth. She asked him to let her sleep and now he does. The amount Philip clenches his jaw at the moment, he’s gonna need a trip to the dentist. And not the basement kind.

A quick costume note to point out how great the winged shoulders of Elizabeth’s coat look in every shot. And if you’re wondering where it comes from, alas it is a custom design by Katie Irish. You won’t be able to pick this one up from Coach. A heavy sigh emanates from most of the major players this week. Elizabeth has no time for talking of feelings. It doesn’t matter that EST has rebranded to The Forum, you will never see Elizabeth indulge in this program. This isn’t a new stance from her, but the work is very much starting to weigh on her, even if she can’t admit it to anyone. She is unwavering in her anger toward her daughter. There is no sleeping over on a work night.

When Philip tells Elizabeth he told Paige she could talk to him, she snaps that she was doing just that. Elizabeth’s lack of empathy here made me laugh out loud because it is so brutal. And yet this is how Elizabeth has chosen to protect herself from all the horrible shit she has done. The cracks are starting to show.Again, Keri Russell gives a masterclass in showing Elizabeth’s exhaustion before steeling herself in front of others. The ‘out damn spot’ opening sequence is incredibly telling, but it is the moment she realizes she has to kill yet another person (that makes two murders and one death caused indirectly at her hands) which delivers the “Give Keri Russell all the awards” moment of the week.

Elizabeth’s repeated stressing that it is important Evan doesn’t spill anything about this meeting is undercut as soon as he mentions his girlfriend as she works in the same department as Elizabeth. The fake smile flickers as he eyes register exactly what must be done, but it is the moment after she has choked Evan that betrays how Elizabeth is really feeling. A mixture of “not this again,” exhaustion and emptiness as Leonard Cohen’s “Dance Me to the End of Love” plays over the top (another incredible music choice and one that connects me to my family as Cohen was my dad’s favorite singer).

Three missions have gone to shit in such a short space of time. Elizabeth has a team, but doing this alone is really fucking with her strike rate. Elizabeth might not be scared of dying for her country, but at this rate it is going to happen sooner rather than later.While Elizabeth is killing yet another guy, Philip has suited and booted or rather wigged and mustached as he keeps with his meeting with Oleg in the park. Matthew Rhys is also doing an incredible job in showing Philip’s betrayal; he is part disgusted at himself with a dash of looking like he wants to vomit, complete with the classic Philip ‘soul being crushed into a thousand pieces’ face. There is no easy solution to the Jennings martial strife, but we all know how Elizabeth feels about Philip lying to her, so this is really not going to go down well when she eventually finds out about the park rendezvous. Although it is not like Elizabeth has been particularly forthcoming either.

One person wants to help Elizabeth and Philip fill their relationship void and that’s Father Andrei. The last time we saw this priest was in much happier times for this couple on their big day and he can sense all is not well with this marriage. Like the audience, he has a personal investment and he tells Elizabeth to bring her husband the next time they see each other. She explains Philip is out of the spy biz, but Father Andrei insists.Will some spiritual guidance be the surprise fix? That fact that Elizabeth is willing to admit to Father Andrei there are issues with Philip is quite a big deal; last week I mentioned Elizabeth on Claudia’s couch as giving off therapy vibes, but this conversation is even more like that. I can’t see Elizabeth showing a lot of vulnerability in front of Claudia, but Father Andrei is another story. He knows them on this intimate level because that ceremony was just for them. There was no ulterior motive or reason behind it. This is what could bring them back together

Unlike the last time Paige saw a violent act up close and personal, she doesn’t seem particularly shaken even though she can’t get it out of her mind. Or at least on the surface level she isn’t. The following day Elizabeth is far kinder to her daughter with regard to this operational error. Elizabeth points out she also made a mistake with this guy, but Paige put everyone at risk. There is also the emphasis that Paige’s job will be different. She might not be throwing on a wig or seducing strangers for information, but the evidence of this is lacking. Is Elizabeth kidding herself?Meanwhile Philip is having a hard time financially due to expanding the business and not having the sales to match. He sweet talks his way into deferring tuition payment—he’s still got it—and gives pep talks straight from “Success through Positive Mental Attitude.” It is awkward as hell.

In other job related conversations there is an odd one in the Beeman kitchen where Renee points to the success of Philip and Elizabeth’s relationship is that they work together. Stan notes they don’t do that much work together anymore as Elizabeth is in charge of the corporate clients (lol at this excuse for her not being in the office much). When Stan finds out the truth… Anyway, Renee floats the idea of joining the FBI, which is bizarre because we of course still don’t know whether Renee is for real or a spy. Stan shoots this idea down because she is too old (the cut off is 37) and I wonder if we will ever find out if Stan is the Martha of this marriage.Stan has some pressing work business including the disaster that is Sofia and Gennadi. Sofia is a bad Soviet if she thinks Soviets are good at keeping secrets and they end up pulling them both out. Very publicly. Gennadi wants to stay together and tasks Stan with fixing his marriage.

There is also Stan’s catch up with Oleg where they catch up on old times including Nina. There is a mutual respect even if Oleg is still pissed at him for the CIA stuff. Stan warns Oleg to leave because he doesn’t have diplomatic immunity, but that meeting in the park still takes place. Each storyline looks set to overlap in a big way and it is only going to get more fraught. Strap in, this is only the beginning of the end.

Get Me That Electric Blue Eyeliner Another week. Another new wig. Or rather a wig we haven’t seen since season one. There are no Stephanie curls, but Elizabeth can get up close to Glen in this getup because she looks so different. Plus she has her back to the group they are tailing. The electric blue eyeliner/pink lipstick is the one.

What is Henry Up To? Henry’s jeans aren’t so acid wash as he rings to tell his dad about his hand in the hockey win. Sadly for Henry he calls at a bad time and this is the first time Philip has referred to spy shenanigans as work this season.

The DARE poster detail is just one reason I love the production design team on this show.

Hat Watch This isn’t the first time Paige has worn this pink beanie this season and while she hasn’t got to wear a wig yet, she does have a steady rotation of hats. Good job it is winter. Elizabeth also got in on the beanie action with Father Andrei, giving her a break from the cavalcade of wigs she’s been wearing this season.

Fun fact – Elizabeth has already worn ten different disguises in three episodes, the most she has ever worn in an entire season is twelve (season two), the least is six (season four).

Out of the Box: Look of the Week

6 Apr

How is it April already? A question I gave been asking since Sunday. However, it is finally light jacket temperature and I am thrilled. My winter coats have served me well, but I am ready to wear something else.

On the red carpet and at events this week there is an injection of color with a dash of classic black frocks thrown into the mix (it still isn’t that warm tbh).

Confession – I struggled with the first few episodes of Legion and fell off after episode three. I think it looks incredible and the performances are great, I just felt very disconnected with it all. Maybe I will try again, but TV watching time is already very busy.

At the premiere TV Ate My Wardrobe fave Aubrey Plaza gives great red lip and velvet Vince Camuto. A striking and classic look. Meanwhile, Dan Stevens goes bold in both his suit and footwear choice. Reader, I am enjoying this. Now this is spring florals; Katie Aselton is a pattern clashing delight in Preen with a Clare Vivier bag, which I have fallen in love with. The eye detail is creepy AND charming.

There is a lot to love about Atlanta, but the episodes which have been the highlight for me in both season one and two are Van-centric. Zazie Beetz is incredible and I cannot wait to see her in Deadpool 2. This stripe/zig-zag dress combo is also fantastic.

And here she is on Late Night with Seth Meyers in that fabulous dress talking about her German upbringing (including some things that influenced a recent Atlanta episode).I am also very much looking forward to having the living crap scared out of me when I go to see The Quiet Place. This has been a fun press tour with IRL couple Emily Blunt and John Krasinski.

At the London premiere, Blunt goes super spring in floral tiered Elie Saab and while Krasinski could have maybe been a little less casual, I am a sucker for this look on a dude (especially one with a beard this good).

https://www.instagram.com/p/BhHazcQA-ks/?hl=en&taken-by=ragandbone

This is also a very strong look.Leighton Meester has turned an icy shade of blonde and to my great surprise, I am very much here for it. Less surprising is how much I am coveting her airport ensemble.Book-ending this week with black dresses, but adding some spring fever with the floral backdrop at the New York screening of Howard’s End. The costumes in this show are fantastic—so much gingham—and it is always a pleasure to have Hayley Atwell on TV (I miss you, Agent Carter). Atwell is joined by on screen sister Philippa Coulthard and there is definite coordination here; Atwell gets my dress vote, Coulthard wins the shoes.

The Americans 6.02 “Tchaikovsky” Review: The Dark Parts

5 Apr

Elizabeth Jennings has a lot on her plate. Not only is she running all the operations alone, when she used to have a partner to share the load, but now she is also being taught how to draw. This is of course part of a very important operation, but Elizabeth could end up exploring a part of her psyche that could be enlightening. But only if she lets it.

Right now she doesn’t get why someone would dedicate their life to something she sees as unimportant, but being told to draw what’s dark is pretty much what she does every day. Her darkness isn’t the mug before her, but the life she lived for all of her adult life. Erica explains that drawing is about looking at what is light and dark, but Elizabeth has spent so long in the moral grey area her eye isn’t trained in this way.The world Elizabeth works in is far from black and white, no matter how much Reagan tried to paint the Soviets as the Evil Empire. A point that Elizabeth reinforces when Paige mentions some light reading she has been doing on the tactics of spies. Paige is still very much in the dark about some of the things her parents have done in the name of the cause; when she asks outright whether operatives use sex as tool to get information her mother lies. The truth would be devastating because as we saw from last week’s opening montage Elizabeth is still very much using this tactic. Not to mention the many men and women her parents have seduced in the name of Mother Russia including the one that ended up as a wife and the one that ended up in a suitcase.

Dancing around the subject Elizabeth explains that those close relationships with sources could turn into something else. This conversation also reinforces how cut off Elizabeth is from everyone else; there is no water cooler in the spy biz. Or at least not in the version Elizabeth lives.

Words like monster and evil have been applied to Elizabeth in the past, most notably in the incredible season three episode “Do Mail Robots Dream of Electric Sheep?” when she forced an old lady to kill herself (I watched this episode again recently and Lois Smith is devastatingly good in her condemnation of Elizabeth’s justifications). Here she tells her daughter that things aren’t black and white, the world is complicated.But the weight of doing this alone is getting to Elizabeth. She lies back on Claudia’s couch talking to her as if this is therapy appointment—Matthew Rhys directed this episode and the intimacy of these moments is extraordinary—and when Paige comes in things switch from work chat to another Russian history lesson.

Elizabeth might scoff at artists, but she appreciates classical music. She took Paige to see The Nutcracker and Claudia explains that Tchaikovsky was all she could listen to after the war. It all sounds very melancholic to this classical music novice’s ear, but each woman seems to take something different from this moment. I really love what is going on with the three generations of women this season. These moments are really effective. We have come a long way since Elizabeth beat the shit out of Claudia; now Elizabeth is asking Claudia to continue with Paige if anything happens to her. This is a disturbing conversation when you think about her relationship with Philip because he has been entirely cut out of this huge part of this life.

Considering how many risks Elizabeth is taking that now seems more likely than ever. Whether it is switching out wigs/outfits within the State Department walls or wildly underestimating how much General Rennhull wants to help out the enemy. Formally a Colonel, who first appeared in the season one finale, “The Colonel” (btw I am so glad I rewatched all of The Americans before this final outing), Rennhull believed he was sharing intel for the greater good. It was to stop a crazy arms race that was more a sci-op than technology that would be possible in this period. But it spun out of control (as things do on this show) and he ended up killing someone to save his skin. It also shows that in this world, anyone can come back. No matter how long ago they were involved. It isn’t an easy life to escape no matter how much you try. Just ask Philip and Oleg.

Elizabeth uses this knowledge as leverage to get a lithium based radiation censor—for the Dead Hand—but what she doesn’t factor in is Rennhull’s state of mind. He would rather kill her than go to jail or betray his country again. The climatic moments in the park has Elizabeth using her kids as a way to stall, to get sympathy and after a brief tussle, Rennhull shoots himself covering Elizabeth’s face in his blood. It is quite the striking image, one that Paige sees as she runs over to make sure her mom is okay. Just another day at the spying office. Of course this isn’t the first time Paige has witness the aftermath of a violent act, but it isn’t getting any easier. And I don’t think Paige is ready for Disposing of a Body 101. After all, it was meant to be better for Paige in this line of work. Not the shit Elizabeth has been through. Getting a bloodier version of Dustin Hoffman in Straw Dogs vibe from this shot. Again, Matthew Rhys did an incredible job behind the camera as well as in front.

As Elizabeth juggles her care work (and art classes) where she offers her euthanasia services—while lying about how effective morphine can be—and the various other multi-wig requiring ops, Philip is having some money woes at the travel agency. Not so much life and death, but Philip is learning the price of expanding the business too much. Capitalism at its finest. A call to a very relaxed and happy sounding Henry has his son noting how forlorn his dad sounds—see Henry is perceptive. But with the Oleg thing hanging over his head it isn’t surprising to see that very familiar clenched jaw.In terms of Philip/Elizabeth interactions it follows the same pattern as last week, but without the fight at the end. She comes down for breakfast, which is a cigarette outside and later on they have a stilted conversation (also while she is smoking). She shares the vaguest of information with him about Paige; it is heartbreaking to see just how much she is keeping from him. This is worse than when they were screaming at each other about whether to tell Paige in season three. They are shells of themselves with each other and you can feel the ache emanating from them both. Philip’s different perspective is why they were so effective as a team, he took the time to think rather than act on a duty bound impulse. Without this Elizabeth ends up in a park at night with blood all over her face. Just how long will it be before he gets pulled back in? Her impulsiveness is a strength, but it can also be a near deadly weakness.

The Jennings aren’t experiencing marital strife per se, more like marital emptiness. Maybe they could do with the not so stellar marriage advice from Stan. Stan is mostly working homicide, but Sofia and Gennadi—the Russian couple from last season—are experiencing relationship woes that could impact a long running operation. Gennadi is a courier and we get to see his operation play out with another excellent music choice; “Slippery People” by Talking Heads. How to x-ray a diplomatic pouch while undetected is hard

And just like Philip, Stan seems reluctant to be drawn into his old life. But the return of Oleg certainly causes some interest.

The Felicity LinkFelicity could teach Elizabeth a lot about art. I don’t think Elizabeth would enjoy it very much. Felicity could also give Elizabeth some curly hair tips for her Stephanie wig.

Teens in ’80s Jeans The ’80s jeans continue to be amazing. Particularly the ones they give Holly Taylor and Keidrich Sellati to wear.

Fake Teeth

When I spoke to costume designer Katie Irish, one of the things she mentioned was the fake teeth that everyone loves, but rarely get used because the actors can’t really speak in them. Well, they made an appearance in “Tchaikovsky” in one of the many new Elizabeth disguises.

Smoking Cardigan UpdateElizabeth has more than one. We will continue to update the smoking cardigan collection as hey come. There’s a lot of walls between Philip and Elizabeth right now.

Julie Hammerle

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