Tag Archives: costume design

Game of Thrones in Discussion: From Spoiler Culture to Style Inspiration

18 Jul

Over the past couple of months I finally did that thing that I have been saying I would do for the past three years and I watched Game of Thrones. After mainlining four seasons I wanted to discuss everything GoT related that I have tried to avoid up to now, which in turn brings me to a relatively recent prevalent pop culture hot topic; spoilers. I am joined by my Felicity discussion partner Julie Hammerle to look at the many GoT talking points of including spoiler culture, the books vs. the show, nudity, violence, the exquisite costuming and who our Westeros style inspiration is. Speaking of spoilers we talk about everything up to the end of season 4 with a brief abstract mention of the thing that didn’t happen at the end of this recent season.

TyrionEmma: Game of Thrones has been part of the pop culture conversation for the past 3 years (18 if you factor when the books was first published as this Buzzfeed “18 things that turn 18 this year” listicle informed me – off topic but Romeo + Juliet makes me feel the oldest) and for most of those three years I have been saying that yes I do want to watch and will catch up soon. Well that finally happened recently and I can now finally stop trying to avoid chat, photos and anything GoT related to stay as spoiler free as possible. In fact spoilers might be a good place to start this discussion as it’s become such a cultural phenomenon with anti-spoiler zealots often shouting the loudest (this essay by Todd VanDerWerff on this subject is pretty great) and it’s pretty hard to catch up on something like GoT without knowing a few of the big story beats.

Brutal and violent death is one constant on GoT (nudity is another, which I am sure we will talk about later) and by killing Ned Stark in season 1 (and book 1) both George RR Martin and David Benioff/D. B. Weiss are sending out a message to say that in this world there is no one who is safe. Sean Bean is the most famous person in that season 1 cast and of course it was a big shock to kill off the star (though Bean’s filmography and this handy montage show that it would be way more surprising if Bean had lived). The season 2 artwork featured Ned’s head on a spike and I saw a lot of people who hadn’t watched S1 complain how this was a major spoiler, however this is a case where HBO shouldn’t refrain from using something that has happened (in a previous season) to protect those who have yet to watch.

This is why I don’t mind that I knew about who died at the Red Wedding (well two of the big ones) or when Joffrey was going to meet his end. Those spoilers are on me as I spend time in a TV heavy discussion area on Twitter and online in general, that is all on me finding out. What I do want to look at in terms of spoilers is how it then impacted how I watched and what it added/took away. I also want to ask you about your position as a book reader and how being in this privileged position in terms of what you know is coming up (or not as they change the material) shapes how you watch.

I spent most of season 1 waiting for Ned Stark to die and even though I knew which episode it happened in, it didn’t take away any of the tension because knowing doesn’t necessarily reduce the desire to see the opposite happen. To bring it back to Romeo and Juliet even though you know they’re both going to die it doesn’t stop you desiring the impossible and for Romeo to see Juliet’s fluttering eyelids before he drinks the poison. So in a similar vein I knew his head was going to get loped off and I still willed it not to happen; it was also fun working out who was going to be behind his downfall (always Littlefinger).

WolfieSeason 2 is the only one I knew nothing about and I guess ultimately it’s the one with no HUGE deaths. Red Wedding has been a term that I have been so familiar with and yet I didn’t know whose wedding it was going to be or who would be the one behind the killings. I had a good idea that Catelyn Stark was dunzo as this is an image I saw everywhere and Robb’s death was one I was certain of. Knowing that it happened in episode 9 (always episode 9) meant I spent the whole thing with my stomach churning due to the tension and it was the stomach stabbing of Talisa that drew the biggest gasp from me, quickly followed by the shooting of Grey Wind in front of Arya – I have a habit of yelling “Woolfie” at the screen when any of the direwolves appear like I’m a toddler or something so I was particularly upset by this.

If tension and dread sponsored this episode then pure joy was behind the Purple Wedding of season 4. I’ve watched all of GoT with my now fiance (still sounds so weird/too formal) Titch and he’s also had some prior knowledge of certain storylines, though we haven’t wanted to reveal what we knew to each other in case the other didn’t know that bit. Jofffrey’s death is something we had both found out about and in this case I had the upper hand as I knew the how and the when, just not the who. It made this episode more fun in a way as they make Joffrey his most vile self to give those final moments a much bigger punch and so while he is being this disgusting I took pleasure in what was about to happen. Pretty much a reverse reaction to the previous deathly nuptials (also getting heaps of ideas of how not to throw a wedding).

There are many other spoiler points I can reference like how a friend mentioned Tywin’s death as he misheard me saying I was only on episode 8 of the most recent season or how if an actor was on a different show it probably meant their character had met their end (like Jason Momoa). Or how as soon I finished the last episode I immediately looked up what book fans were mad about being omitted (and holy shit LSH would have been an amazing scene to end with). Before I go on any further I want to hand over to you and what you think about spoilers in general and books vs. the show. You know, the easy stuff, haha.

Game of Thrones red weddingJulie: The reason I started reading and watching Game of Thrones was because of a spoiler. I opened up my Entertainment Weekly a few weeks (days?) after the infamous Season 1 episode and saw a picture of Ned Stark’s head rolling across the ground. That blew me away. I had never seen the show and I didn’t know much about it, but the fact that the biggest actor, the lead actor, could be killed off like that intrigued me.

I started by watching the pilot episode, but it didn’t grip me right away. I had trouble distinguishing the young men from one another, and I just felt kind of lost. So, instead of 86-ing the whole enterprise, I jumped in and started reading the books, so obviously I saw something there that I liked.

The books are my everything, though you wouldn’t know it by the way I read them. I burned through the first book (and immediately watched the first season). It took me almost six months to finish A Clash of Kings. I read A Storm of Swords in two weeks. I let A Feast for Crows linger on my (digital) shelf for almost a year. And then I read A Dance with Dragons over the course of about a month. Apparently I’m very motivated to read the odd-numbered books.

Knowing about Ned Stark’s death didn’t impact my enjoyment either. Like you, I had no idea how we’d get to that point, and I had no idea about the other surprise deaths that would happen along the way — King Robert, Drogo, and Viserys, namely. While people love to talk about the Big Shocking Moments, this show is way more than a few brutal deaths. What happens between the deaths is what makes the show so compelling.

Ned Stark GoT(Though, honestly, part of the reason I read Book 3 so quickly was because I saw someone on Twitter mention that they had gotten to the point in ASOS that everyone “speaks about in hushed tones.” I just HAD to see what that part way. I just had to! And honestly, when Catelyn and Robb got popped in the middle of the book, I wasn’t all that shocked about it. Maybe I was shocked about Catelyn’s death. As far as Robb went, I knew he’d be a goner eventually. I actually thought the show did a better job of mining the tension from the Red Wedding than the book did. Adding the stomach stabbing was horrifyingly potent.)

As the show continues, though, the writers have started to take more liberties with the source material (probably since GRRM is taking his sweet time finishing the series, but don’t tell him that). There are a few characters who are alive in the book, but have died on the show (and vice versa, actually). The Theon storyline in seasons 3 and 4 didn’t happen until the fourth book. The stuff with the crows attacking Craster’s Keep this season was manufactured just to give the Crows something to do (I’m assuming). And heading into the next few seasons, which will focus on two books that are so scattered, geographically and story-wise, I have no idea how they’re going to handle it. And I do have concerns that many of the Big Moments have come and gone. I’m sure the writers feel like they owe it to the TV-only fans to manufacture some new Big Moments, and I wonder what they’ll come up with.

AryaEmma: I rewatched the pilot after the season 4 finale – I was in that post finishing funk and it felt like a good use of my time – and of course it reads in an entirely different manner. On first watch there are so many names and dynamics to take on board, plus something bristles pretty bad about the inherent misogyny that pretty much all of the female characters are subjected to. It’s like when you first watch Mad Men and it’s hard to not react to the situation these women find themselves in. Of course they have power in many other ways (and not just boobs thankfully, though that is also an issue on occasions), but it’s hard to adjust to the overt masculinity that’s on screen. Like straight away Arya was favourite character, pretty much from when she shot the arrow while Bran was failing miserably and Cersei is clearly the HBIC (with Catelyn a close second), it just doesn’t necessarily leap off the screen like that straight away.

In fact I watched season 1 at a pretty steady pace, a few episodes here and there. And then I think I probably watch 2-4 in the same amount of time it took to do the first one. It sometimes takes a while to get into something and it was the moment where Littlefinger betrays Ned that it all clicked into place for me and I understood why everyone is so mad for this show. And you’re right, the deaths can be shocking but it’s how these characters react and adapt to these moments that is far more interesting to watch. Big Moments are easier in a way, it’s the what happens after that is harder and can be way more compelling.

That’s interesting about the books and ha to GRRM’s reaction to that question. I do want to read them, I just know that my current reading pile is ridiculous and I really shouldn’t start something I have already watched, if that makes sense. Maybe when the new book comes out I will catch up.

The position of reader and knowing when the Big Moments are coming can be beneficial, but now those are pretty much done I guess it means book readers might be more concerned, whereas just watchers are blissfully ignorant. It must be kinda fun when they go off book as you’re now in for surprises too. Am I right that the Bran story is now up to date with where the book is? Creepy children and tree people.

I have one more book related question before I move onto more show based thoughts (like how much I want to talk about the costuming, because oh my word are they beyond incredible) and that’s if there are characters/locations that you like on the page and not on the screen or vice versa? Like I’ve grown very restless with Daenerys scenes (except for her costume design and Daario) and never tire of King’s Landing.

Cersei Game of ThronesJulie: First of all, the ladies. Maybe it’s because I read the books first, but I’ve never really gotten the whole “this show is so misogynist” thing. I actually wrote a post about how the show is very good for women (horn toot). The women in the books and show have to play by the rule of the male dominated society, but they all find ways around them. They all find their way of grabbing for power, some overtly (Dany) and some covertly (Cersei, and now Sansa).

One thing I love about the way GRRM writes women is that he doesn’t treat them as a monolith. Every woman on this show is her own person, fully realized. Do we like all of these women? No, which I think is fabulous. They all have their strengths and faults. He allows them to fail and succeed in equal measure with the men. There aren’t a lot of stereotypical Strong Female Characters here.

Daenerys is the exception. She’s sort of the Mary Sue of the story, and obviously the one GRRM is rooting for. At this point, everything she’s done has been above board and has worked out well for her. And it drives me crazy. Her story is the least compelling to me, in the books and on screen. There’s always been this subtext that Dany is the one who will drag Westeros out of the mess, and I just think that’s too easy and boring. Or maybe GRRM will shock us all (again) and kill Dany in Book 6. I would cheer. I’m a jerk.

As far as the stories I like vs. the ones I don’t on screen and off…Bran’s stuff bores me in the books, but I kind of like it on screen (and, yes, his story is all caught up now). The two POV characters that are my favorites right now in the books (as of Book 5, A Dance With Dragons) were two of the most boring stories early on, in my opinion. Those characters are Jon Snow and Davos. On the show, we haven’t gotten to their ADWD stories obviously, so who knows. But right now those two really don’t do much for me on the show. Jon has his moments, but I’m hoping they’ll really beef up the complexity of his character in the coming seasons. And the Davos stuff, without revealing anything, he ends up going off on his own to places we haven’t been before, generally proving what a savvy badass he is wherever he goes. The show has shown us glimmers of this kick ass Davos, but I want more, MORE.

I’ve said enough. Let’s talk about costumes!

Goth SansaEmma: Woah to the article that prompted your GoT/women viewers piece and I was trying to figure out if the original is satire because it hurts my brain if those are real thoughts.

When it comes to HBO and nudity it is disappointing that it’s generally a whole lot of boobs and not all that much male nudity, my response is eye rolls more than anything – The Leftovers might be setting a new record as I don’t think there’s been any female nudity, brief flashback aside in three episodes. I was surprised to see Theon’s favorite toy before it got lopped off in season 1 so there has been dong on at least one occasion. I am also thankful for the Daario stripping scene to take this down to the most superficial level I can. Sexual violence and the threat of it is something I think that is used too often and the Cersei/Jaime scene made no sense and was incredibly disappointing, particularly when I heard how the book version was different. I know I’ve asked a few book questions already, but how did you feel about this whole debate?

la_ca_0224_game_of_throneI’m also glad that the power wielded by the women on this show is varied and goes beyond their sexuality. Manipulation is the tool that Cersei has mastered over the years and she’s terrifying. Cersei does have a weakness and that’s her kids, but this doesn’t feel like the usual motherhood cliches that get portrayed on TV time and time again. I’m also really pleased to see Lena Headey up for an Emmy as she’s killed it this season. Strength comes in other ways – Brienne is awkward, but physically strong and incredibly loyal. I’m going to miss the friendship that developed between Jaime and Brienne, but he sure does know how to give a good parting gift and her new armor is very impressive. Arya as I’ve mentioned is my favorite and yet the other Stark sister has gone up in my estimations.

Sansa gets a bit of a raw deal from both viewer reactions (I’ve heard many call her whiny, which she was at first because she was a brat and definitely had a right to be after everything she has gone through at King’s Landing) and the shit she has dealt with. I forgot how young she was playing so when Tyrion asked her age and she said 14 my jaw dropped on the floor. Sansa’s crowning moment comes in the form of Goth Sansa in the last episode we saw her in and this is one of my favorite costumes from GoT’s entire run. I’m really looking forward to seeing what lessons she has taken from her time with Cersei and those imbued on her by her mother.

The ladies of the Tyrell family are also good fun to watch and while I worry that Margaery is in over her head, I enjoy watching Natalie Dormer navigating those treacherous waters and Diana Rigg as Bad Gran (okay Olenna) is incredible. Another Emmy nominations that I was happy to see.

This is a good place to discuss costumes (also Emmy nominated) and I’m constantly in awe with what I see on screen. This is also where the women truly shine as while the armor is of course incredible, it’s the different styles and color palettes that get used for the female characters that stand out. Blue is dominant for Daenerys, the Tyrells and Brienne so am I right in assuming these are their family colors? Red and gold is of course Lannister and the Starks wear much more muted tones (Arya’s got brown down now). It’s all about those fur pelts up north. I do associate green with Catelyn, is this the House Tully color?

This distinctive approach helps for a variety of reasons, partly so you can identify who everyone is and where they fit in this expansive world. Costume is of course used to show wealth and by that extension the Lannister gold is showing just how rich they are and how happy they are to show their wealth. No one likes a show off. Cersei’s dress that featured a metal breast plate is probably my favorite piece on the show so far, I am also partial to Margaery’s plunging necklines and her wedding dress is also a highlight. Daenerys graduating to pants as her power grew is also up there for me.  Before I go on, I want to throw it back to you to see what has stood out to you? Whose wardrobe would you like to try in the real world? Maybe for your Mimi going down the park moments.

GoT C and MJulie: First of all, about Jaime and Cersei’s relationship — I was really upset by the rape scene, for obvious reasons, but also because it didn’t feel true to the Jaime character. He is very loyal and thinks of the greater good. He loves his sister; I truly think he does. I just can’t reconcile the character that I’ve gotten to know over the past five books with this guy who would force his sister to have sex with him in front of their son’s corpse. (That was a sentence I never thought I’d type.)

There has been some discussion about the fact that this scene occurs from Jaime’s POV in the book, and maybe he thought it was consensual and the TV show was just supposing it wasn’t, which I suppose makes sense, but it still doesn’t jibe with everything we’ve learned about him.

Also, I love Sansa. She is one of my favorite characters on the show and in the books. I liked her from the start because she’s obviously someone who has a lot of growing to do, and we’ve seen her do it. I also love her relationship with the Hound, which hasn’t been highlighted as much in the show. I totally ship them. She’s the girl who has been looking for a handsome knight to save her. He’s the unlikely brute to do it. (And, yeah, I know we saw that Sandor Clegane was left for dead in the last episode of the show, but even in the books, we’re still not sure of his whereabouts. If you don’t see someone die on this show, assume they’re not dead. Hell, even if you do see them die.)

GoT DaenerysI looked up the sigils. House Tully is red and blue. House Tyrell is green and gold. Lannister, red and gold. Stark, black and gray, which really goes with the dark, winter motif. House Targaryen is red and black, which doesn’t really fit Dany’s blue wardrobe. I’m assuming the blue is represents her calm demeanor, and maybe that she holds the promise of peace for Westeros. Also, blue is the color of the sky, where her dragons reside (when she’s not locking them in dungeons).

When I dress up like Mimi to take my kids to the park, I want to dress like Cersei. She is The Queen. I know that Daenerys thinks she’s the queen, but no. It’s all about Cersei. She gets the hair and the jewels and the clothes (not to mention the arm candy; Dany can keep Daario). I love the rich reds and golds. She’s the Head Bitch in Charge, and she dresses like it. I think I might need to get this Cersei-esque dress by Ella Zahlan. I’d be the best dressed at the park.

Who’s your GoT wardrobe inspiration?

GoT JoffreyEmma: Cersei definitely has the best style and that Ella Zahlan dress is perfect park Mimi-like material. I’m going to go slightly left-field with Joffrey as boy did he rock a beautiful patterned cape and half capes well. He definitely has his mother’s style – Jaime also is sartorially gifted – even if he is a massive prick. I think I might miss Joffrey. I am also partial to the Starks styling as while they don’t have much colour in their wardrobe, they still have a lot of flare thanks to their furs (although I’m anti-fur IRL). If I was doing fancy dress I would be Arya all the way as we have similar haircuts now. Plus she’s a badass. And as I mentioned previously, Goth Sansa is one of my all time favorite costumes this show has done – I’m glad to hear you’re a fan of this character too. Do you think they transferred the Hound/Sansa relationship onto Arya? I’m with you on thinking that he probably isn’t dead, even if he was in a bad way when Arya left him.

I also find something rather enticing about the Night’s Watch and Wildling attire; I mean who wouldn’t want to wear something that doubles as a super warm duvet? Clothes that can also be bed linen are my jam, so I’m also weirdly drawn to the Shae’s bed sheet like gown.

One character whose style I was very fond of is Oberyn before his head went pop so I’m looking forward to seeing what Dorne will bring to the style table next season. Also a quick word on the violence of the show as I think this is the first time I screamed at something the show has done; I was pre-warned that something on an epically horrific scale was going to happen in this episode so I was amped for something super gross, but I did not expect THAT.

Is there anything else you want to mention?

GoT OberynJulie: For a second there I thought you were calling Jaime a prick and I was like, “Wait.” But no. You were referring to Joffrey. Carry on.

The Hound/Arya stuff is all in the books. And I completely love the two of them hanging out together.  They’re both loners who really have no one else to turn to, so they turn to each other. And they learn life lessons. It’s beautiful.

I’ve never considered clothing-that-doubles-as-bed-linens as a fashion category, but I think it should be the new wave. Maybe we’ll see some of that at NYFW in the spring. With last winter we had, I don’t think it’s a bad idea to carry a duvet with you wherever you go.

About the Dornish, it looks like we’ll be getting a lot more of them next season (minus sexy Oberyn, of course). This show does a great job of giving each new place its own sartorial flavor. Next season, it looks like we’ll be seeing more of Braavos as well (home of the erstwhile Jaqen H’ghar and Syrio Forel, AKA Arya’s teacher). We may spend more time in Theon-land, the Iron Islands, where I expect some Poseidon-like garb to accompany Yara’s battle grays.

As far as the gore goes, it’s something I accept as part of the show, but I could do without it. Sometimes things are better left unseen. I watched Snowpiercer over the weekend; and every time something violent was about to happen, the camera would cut away. It did nothing to dampen the suspense. Less is more for me; but based on the collective reaction to Oberyn’s death this season, I think I may be in the minority.

GoT Jon snowEmma: Ha, oops yeah that isn’t that clear. I wasn’t too keen on Jaime in season 1, but he has definitely grown on me. The scenes with Tyrion in the jail cell were some of my favorites this show has done. As I tweeted at the time when Jaime kissed his brother on the cheek, it was one Lannister sign of affection that I didn’t mind witnessing.

Wildlings and Crows have got Polar Vortex fashion down and I hope to see a whole range of inspired clothes come the next NYFW.

Super excited for the new lands that will be featured next year and you’re spot on with how different each location/family is. Even the characters that share a color palette like Margaery and Daenerys look incredibly different thanks to cut, embroidery and texture.

As with the Scandal catch up last year, I am very much looking forward to sharing in the wider collective conversation and not having to scroll through endless tweets that I can’t read. That’s going to be fun as while it’s been good talking to people while I’ve been catching up everyone is always in that “oh has that happened” yet mind space where they don’t want to say too much as they might accidentally say something of give away a character’s death through a facial expression. Now to catch up on other things like Fargo (there is always something).

Julie Hammerle is, according to Klout, an expert in the areas of both Morgan Freeman and glasses. Her writing can be found at chicagonow.com/hammervision and you can holler at her on Twitter as well.

 

Masters of Sex 2.01 “Parallax” Review: Going off Book

14 Jul

The big rain soaked grand gesture that ended season 1 of Masters of Sex is revisited in the form of flashback from both Bill and Virginia’s perspective throughout this premiere – the different points of view give the episode its title – and it is even followed by an equally rom-com like “What do we do now?” This question is incredibly loaded and neither Bill nor Virginia is very good at saying what they really mean; there is no scientific instrument than can speak for the (metaphorical) heart. Everything has been displaced and in this excellent first outing back we see pretty much every character clinging to the past while being deluded about the present. As with last year these reviews will be looking at Masters of Sex through the prism of costume design and how this plays a part in the overall narrative, as well as exploring other broader themes this show is addressing. Masters of Sex 2.01 no eye contactStarting at the end of the episode, which in a sense is the beginning of this seasons time line as Bill and Virginia discuss the finer points of Freud’s “there are no accidents” philosophy – this is one occasion where they agree with Freud after debunking his female orgasm theory – and end up in their standard stalemate relationship position. Bill and Virginia work incredibly well together and are both rather intuitive when it comes to the work, not so much with saying how they really feel as one of them is always erecting walls to protect their heart. Bill was the one to lay it all out this time and then pulled the classic “oh you misunderstood what was saying” after Virginia use word “affair” and how amazing he is for getting that she choose work over love. They can barely look at each other in this scene and they’re wearing their standard armor; Virginia’s high neckline/dark palette is her serious person wear and Bill’s immaculate suit and bow tie reflects his stiff exterior. Masters of Sex 2.01 Bill and Virginia suspendersTheir versions of armor do get stripped away in the bedroom and this is the first time they have been intimate outside of a controlled environment and it is jarring seeing them engaging like this outside of blue robes and medical instruments. The quick cuts as they go from doorstep to bedroom and finally a longer sequence of them naked enhances how impulsive this moment is and they are both laid out bare both physically and emotionally. Bill’s inquisitive side comes into play as he checks Virginia’s pulse and the first mention of no medical equipment is uttered; it’s impossible for this pair to separate the study from intimacy. This is the barrier they have used in the past to justify what they are doing as science. Now comes the psychological side of sex and Virginia ponders how they will measure this kind of data. Ah the study and its ability to provide an excuse for ignoring what is really going on while confronting these feelings in equal measures; Virginia even refers to it as “like nuclear rain falling on us all.” That is some stark imagery. Masters of Sex 2.01 kimonoVirginia barely wears any color in this episode and the ones she does are relatively muted aside from the celadon scarf that gets commented on at the hotel (“you can call it green”) and this incredible floral kimono. Again this is a much different look to the blue robes worn during Virginia’s previous sexual encounters with Bill and while they have of course been intimate with each other prior to this, the different setting and personal details like this kimono show how this relationship enters a new phase only to be back where they started by the end of the premiere. The different versions of the phone call, one in which we see Bill with a post-sex hopeful glow as Virginia turns down Ethan and the other as we hear Ethan’s side and see Virginia choosing work over love (even if she was never really in love with Ethan) earn an “it’s complicated” relationship status update. Masters of Sex 2.01 AustinIf this episode had a sponsor it would be denial and the result of what denial can do is helpfully demonstrated by Dr. Austin Langham as he hides from his scorned wife in Dr. Lillian DePaul’s office – he interrupts Lillian and Virginia having their own conversation about denial – as she roams the halls with her kids in tow yelling about her unfaithful husband. I have to admit that I totally bought into Austin’s sincere sounding declaration that he was a changed man and was no longer the cheating hound dog he was last season. Instead he has actually been sleeping with his sister-in-law and his fear of the study being like a mummy’s curse wasn’t his downfall, his inability to keep it in his pants did that just fine. Virginia getting to hold yet another baby reluctantly combined with Lillian’s admonishing of Austin made this the comic relief this episode craved. It also raised the question of whether Virginia should have ratted out where Austin was as a sign of solidarity even though Austin is the one who is her friend, not his wife and this situation is even more problematic as Virginia is also currently sleeping with the husband of a friend (no I am never buying the “it’s for science” defense which is why the Bill/Libby/Virginia love triangle is so fascinating). In one other moment of hilarity Lizzy Caplan did get to show off her fantastic comic timing as she attempts to use the script given to her to sell the diet pills, improv is definitely more Virginia’s speed. Masters of Sex 2.01 Libby and VirginiaWhile I’m on the subject of the Libby/Virginia friendship it is a good time to point out the stunning outfit Libby wears while on her trip to the hospital – inspired by Dior’s New Look – and there’s a couple of things that stand out to me here. First there’s light and dark; Virginia is in her standard dark tones and it’s not surprising considering the reaction from hospital employees that Virginia is doing all she can to not stand out. Libby is facing similar stares when out at functions and I’m not sure if she is aware of these disapproving looks or is she is using standard WASP protocol and pretending everything is fine, I suspect the latter. The color of this dress matches her son’s attire and it instantly made me think of how the Virgin Mary is often depicted wearing light blue and white. Masters of Sex 2.01 baby johnnyThis is reflected later when Bill scoffs that their baby isn’t Jesus despite being a ‘miracle,’ no to Bill he is like a crying monster to be drowned out by records and thoughts of Virginia. If only he could see the above shot to make things even more jumbled in Bill’s mind. Masters of Sex 2.01 horror povPure horror movie POV as Bill contemplates entering dear, sweet Johnny’s room before opting for the record player. Libby later calls Bill a “baby magician” before realizing that his mother is the one with the baby skills beyond the hospital. Bill’s baby fear stems from his own troubled family history and he banishes his mother back to Ohio after spitting at her how he is sleeping with Virginia and that he has become both his father and her. Bill really needs therapy as these issues are not going away and it is unfortunate that Libby has to deal with both their crying child and her repressive husband. Masters of Sex 2.01 LibbyLibby asks for advice from Virginia with how to deal with Bill’s work situation and Virginia’s words of wisdom focus on Libby “most of all I would take care of myself, it’s all you can do” as Bill is not great when being pushed in a certain direction. Libby does some of the former, but really more of the latter and this calls for more stunning vintage garments including this blue alpaca coat. Masters of Sex 2.01 poisedLibby is all poise at this event showing off what is under the above alpaca coat – a spectacular necklace and pale blue dress -as she tries to make things work, all while Bill is polishing off multiple martinis and snarking about her attempts to talk to Greathouse. Bill has his own chance meeting that helps him secure a new job and outlet for the study (more on that below). Masters of Sex 2.01 Libby floralTying Virginia and Libby together through floral print is not something I would have necessarily expected; Libby wears hers to maintain her social standing and to help Bill’s career through the only way she knows how and Virginia’s comes as personal and professional intersect in a new location. Libby and Virginia are of course linked through Bill and as their friendship developed prior to any Bill/Virginia sexy times it makes everything even more complicated. Libby is a sympathetic figure – which a lot of other shows with a difficult/brilliant man storyline have struggled with – and at the same time she isn’t painted as a weak 1950s housewife. There is real steely determination here and I worried when Masters of Sex first started that Libby would end up as nothing more than a pretty face with a nagging disposition so that you would will Bill and Virginia to be together. Instead we have a character who has strength and isn’t afraid to go against her husband’s wishes if she thinks it will help her family. That Bill has two women like this in his life who want to go to bat for him, despite his prickly and difficult nature is pretty astounding.

We know that when Bill lets his guard down there is a very caring side as he shows when he accompanies Barton to his electroshock therapy. When Barton pukes on him he barely blinks “it’s just a suit.” Bill can’t hide his disgust at this barbaric course of treatment and he uses science to try and convince Barton that he shouldn’t continue down this path.

Masters of Sex 2.01 Scully womenI’ve talked about how the theme of this episode is denial and Barton has this is droves as he tries to convince himself and Margaret that he can be ‘cured.’ Margaret sees through his sexual advances as soon as he wants to do it from behind pleading with him “there’s only a shred of me left that feels like a woman.” Margaret and Barton break my heart on every level in this episode – and have all but guaranteed repeat Emmy nominations for this time next year – as they both struggle with the reality of Barton’s sexuality. He so desperately wants to feel another way that his last resort is suicide and he is saved by his wife and daughter who have just returned from a shopping spree. Mother and daughter discuss the color of Vivian’s new top – she’s moving away from the pinks of last season as she has grown up and is talking about moving away – when they hear what they think is a thud from the basement window. Instead it is Barton’s hanging attempt and thankfully they reach him in time to save his life. Where the Scullys go from here is unclear, but they aren’t letting even those nearest to them in as Margaret makes excuses to Bill; a long distance phone call is the 50s version of a video call I guess. Masters of Sex 2.01 LillianWhat dish of denial is Lillian cooking up with her medicine cabinet story? Am I wrong in inferring that alcohol might be behind this shiner? One thing that I love about Masters of Sex is that it doesn’t have just one great lady friendship, there are currently three – though Jane will be departing soon sadly – and each brings out a different richness. Lillian and Virginia call each other out on their BS, Lillian disapproves of the diet pills Virginia is hawking and Virginia quickly flips the tables when Lillian blames her black eye on an object and not a person. Lillian has trouble getting her words out which might add to my booze theory or it could be down to her illness which I fear will take this incredible character away from us. It’s all about being careful and not reckless, a position that sends Virginia down Bill Masters memory lane for the final time in “Parallax” (this title also sounds like a diet pill to be honest) as their guarded nature could be seen as being careful, but it is probably going to be far more detrimental in the long run. Lillian as ever is buttoned up and muted in her costuming. Masters of Sex 2.01 Jane yellowYellow bag, coat, dress and jewelry is what I wanted from Jane’s brief appearance this season (Heléne Yorke is switching with Annaleigh Ashford as the actress with Broadway commitments this year) and I’m really going to miss this character’s ability to be honest without being hurtful. Jane wants Virginia to move to California as she thinks Virginia is deluding herself with the study and Bill. It’s colorful versus muted tones once again (Virginia’s collar is making me think of vicars and how she is trying to reject the sexual image people associate with her after the presentation) and Virginia also uses this opportunity to convince her friend that maybe she isn’t making the right choice either. Jane is following her dream and in a way Virginia is doing the same by putting her faith in Bill and their work. Masters of Sex 2.01 BettyBetty is back! Welcome to another installment of denial as she still hasn’t told her husband that a) she is gay and b) she can’t have kids. Masters knows about both of these things and is pissed that he has been drawn into this mess again, but hey he also gets to restart the study and get a new job out of this association so let’s play nice Bill. Betty is also not thrilled to see Bill and the Pretzel King is oblivious to all of this. Oh, Greg Grunberg (and another Felicity alum getting discussed on both his former and current show). Betty wears red, which was a staple color during her brief, but memorable stint last season and her relationship with Bill is one of the many conflicts I am looking forward to them exploring this year. An excellent first episode back propelling the story forward while characters try to adjust to big changes while denying that anything is different despite the obvious shifts and upheavals. Incredible work from Ane Crabtree and her costume design team as they add another layer to the text through what the characters wear and how they wear it.

2014 Emmy Nominations – Costumes (Updated to Include Winners)

10 Jul

The 2014 Emmy nominations were announced this morning (for the full list head here) and while I have many thoughts regarding the omissions – The Americans, Tatiana Maslany and The Good Wife in the drama series category just for starters – I wanted to highlight the shows that have been nominated for what we like to talk about a lot here and that is costume design.

There are two costume categories; Outstanding Costume Design for a Series and Outstanding Costume Design for a Miniseries, Movie or a Special and those nominees are below. I would have loved to see Masters of Sex, HannibalThe AmericansSleepy HollowThe Mindy ProjectScandal and The Good Wife feature in the nominations -yes all the shows I write about regularly – however it is a very strong field and some of my favorite costumes from this year are featured on this list of nominees.

Updated! Find out who won below.

GoT

Outstanding Costume Design for a Series

Boardwalk Empire – John Dunn, Lisa Padovani and Joseph La Corte

Downton Abbey – Caroline McCall, Heather Leat, Poli Kyriacou

Game of Thrones – Michele Clapton, Sheena Wichary, Alexander Fordham, Nina Ayres – WINNER

Mad Men – Janie Bryant, Tiffany White Stanton, Stacy Horn

Once Upon a Time – Eduardo Castro, Monique McRae

American Horror Story

Outstanding Costume Design for a Miniseries, Movie or a Special

American Horror Story: Coven – Lou Eyrich, Elizabeth Macey, Ken Van Duyne – WINNER

House of Versace – Claire Nadon, Nicole Magny

Sherlock: His Last Vow – Sarah Arthur, Ceri Walford

The Normal Heart – Daniel Orlandi, Gail A. Fitzgibbons, Hartsell Taylor, Maria Tortu

The White Queen – Nic Ede, Raissa Hans, Elizabeth Healy

The 66th Primetime Emmys will take place Monday, August 25 and will be hosted by Seth Meyers.

Fantasy Costuming Masters of Sex: Vintage Inspired

7 Jul

As Masters of Sex is a period drama the costume design relies on vintage pieces and new garments that have been inspired/adapted by Ane Crabtree and her team (Crabtree’s Instagram has some great behind the scenes videos) to keep in line with the look of the late 1950s.* This edition of Fantasy Costuming is going to be a bit different from previous outings as I have selected garments from a variety of stores ranging from affordable to ‘one month’s rent’ and everything chosen is available to buy right now. Both 1950s and 1960s silhouettes (and especially the latter) have refused to be relegated to the past and each season seems to have a hint of these decades on the runway (much to my delight).

*Updated to include this behind the scenes video from Showtime and one revelation is how Crabtree makes everything.

The garments featured are reflections rather than something one of these characters might wear; an homage using current collections and inspired by the costuming from the first season. Virginia, Libby and Jane are the three women I will be looking at for wardrobe ideas as all three represent different aspects of this period.

Virginia’s wardrobe is dominated by subdued colors as she wants to be taken seriously and this means there’s a whole lot of black and grey. Color does slip in with red and green, plus bows and buttons are very much part of her look. One of my favorite aspects of 1950s style is how detailed necklines are and they often feature added embellishments/intricate collars.

Modcloth blackThe Rockabilly Your World top is one of several items from the vintage inspired ModCloth and the rounded collar/bow detail is so on point for Virginia.

Carven black dressSticking with black and a similar neckline with a Carven dress that sits a lot higher (mid-thigh) than something Virginia would wear, but definitely shares in the essence of her serious work attire.

LanvinGrey is Virginia’s backup work power suit color (just throw a white coat over the top for extra Virginia Johnson confidence) and this knee-length Lanvin wool dress is all nipped in waist, keyhole detail and shoulder embellishment.

red dress modclothTime to inject some color and red is rather symbolical for a number of reasons; it reflects the passion that both Virginia and Bill are having a hard time reconciling with as each pushes the other away at various points during season 1. Red is a dominant color on the artwork for season 2 and it holds significance when Virginia wears it. Plus Lizzy Caplan looks stunning in any form of crimson (lip color included). This frock is from ModCloth and is appropriately called the Dance Floor Date dress.

RedValentinoOne more Virginia item and Masters of Sex had me coveting all the coats last season. Coming from RED Valentino this stunning and super chic black woven coat has a hint of bowed femininity and an enduring quality. Virginia is both fashion forward for the time period and at the same time maintains a timeless look as a woman in the workplace.

ModCloth yellow Yellow heels

Moving on with a couple of items that make me think of Jane. Jane’s dominant color matched her sunny disposition with a whole lot of yellow. Both the You Got the Upbeat blouse and Member of the Board heels are from ModCloth and are well suited to those who wear this shade all of the time and those who want to give it a go for the first time. Regulars to the site know I am a slight yellow clothes obsessive and so I’m always happy to have a reason to shop this color.

Topshop skirtLibby is the most classically feminine of the women on Masters of Sex as she plays the traditional role of housewife and now mother. In season 1 Libby’s costuming reflects a wealthy lifestyle and even her loungewear/cooking/cleaning clothes are beautiful. This might see a shift in season 2 as she’s now dealing with a baby and their financial situation is far from secure. This beautiful cornflower jacquard skirt is from Topshop and matches the pastels and patterns Libby wears.

Alice and OliviaMore soft color from Alice + Olivia and this works for both a Libby influence and her younger counterpart Vivian Scully (pink dominates her costuming). The floral lace detail is stunning and the classic A-line cut is perfectly Libby with a modern twist.

Tory BurchLibby doesn’t really do the whole monochrome thing; if she did this Tory Burch ‘Wilda‘ polka dot affair would be her speed as those dots aren’t actually white but rose pink.

Masters of Sex returns Sunday, July 13 so be sure to join us next week for all the costuming and narrative analysis.

Not Letting Go of the Bad Ex: How Don Draper Changed in Season 7 of Mad Men

2 Jul

Last year there was Don Draper fatigue here at TV Ate My Wardrobe and I was joined by Kerensa Cadenas to discuss Don Draper’s bad habits and tiresome antics. Kerensa is back to talk about the more optimistic first half of this final season of Mad Men as we take a look at this excellent run of episodes and how both Don and this season surprised us with its generally optimistic outlook. We also address how this season compares to the previous one and how our predictions matched up (I don’t think they did). In a similar vain we talk about the second half of the final season and where we would like to see these characters end up.

Mad Men 7.06 Burger ChefEmma: I had a quick look back at our last Mad Men discussion and boy was the end of season 6 bleak as Don bottomed out in the Hershey’s pitch going a bit to far into the old memory bank. Nope, no one wants to see a grown man cry over chocolate in 1968 (the same can probably be said for now). One thing we both said we wanted for the final season was to see Joan and Peggy running the show, now while that hasn’t happened entirely, “Waterloo” included a huge professional victory for Peggy and Joan is going to be getting a sizable amount from the deal Roger has struck, so they’re both doing rather well.

Now, before I get into specifics of either of their storylines (and I could basically spend this entire time talking about Peggy and I already have) I want to ask about your general overall feelings about this season. How are you finding Don now as I know we both had reservations about his super shitty behavior last season. Has this season panned out how you expected? Or are you like me and go into Mad Men with no preconceived notions or expectations?

Mad Men 7.07 Peggy and Don hotelKerensa: I think, as we could tell, from last season’s discussion, I was having a bit of a Mad Men burnout. I was frustrated with Don, his actions and his inability to change. And I try to go into a season without expectations but I totally went into this season with completely expecting that Don would be continuing the same old shit that we’ve become accustomed with. And I was totally wrong!

I don’t think Don is totally vindicated yet (which I’m sure we’ll discuss) but overall I enjoyed this season and especially these last two episodes more than I’ve enjoyed Mad Men in a while. And a lot of that does have to do with the character development that Don had–which was not what I expected from this season at all. I really thought I would get more of the same and I’m so glad I was wrong.

What did you think?

Mad Men 7.04 DonEmma: I should add a slight caveat to my no expectations proclamation as Don screwing around was something I fully expected to happen, especially with Megan out in LA. Instead we see Don turn down offers from Neve Campbell – please show keep casting from the 90s teen pool, Rayanne would be my next choice – and a woman in a bar who claims to know him. This is not the Don Draper we have seen in any of the previous seasons and I wonder just why he can suddenly keep it in his pants. He could be trying to make it work with Megan, but I actually think it has more to do with Sally walking in on him with Sylvia and exposing him for the man he is. There is one non-Megan dalliance, however Megan is also there as he responds to a threesome in the most lackluster way I think I have ever seen on TV going from “I’m tired” to “I guess.”

We’ve seen Don hit rock bottom on multiple occasions, this is a whole new subterranean level of shit as he’s been put on leave and is essentially living his life vicariously through Freddie Rumsen. Not that Freddie is the rock bottom signifier and he is the exact person who Don needs in his life. It’s a big surprise seeing Freddie in this role and it is something Mad Men excels at as there is such a wealth of supporting characters from the previous 6 seasons and I like the idea that any of them can pop up at any one time. The opening scene of the premiere is so jarring with Freddie in the pitching seat and yet I never clued in that he had become Don’s mouthpiece.

Freddie plays a pivotal role when Don acts like a big baby when he first goes back to SC&P and this is the episode where Don has been at his most loathsome and pathetic all season – there’s nothing quite like the sight of him emptying out his coke and pouring vodka in to replace it. Freddie has been in Don’s position and like anyone else who has been put on leave he never returned, Don is a special case and it’s when his dick swinging and inability to quit works in his favor. I’ve really enjoyed seeing Don both falter and walk into a room like he owns everything, finally he has some humility and yet the cocksure attitude is also an important attribute. We needed to see him truly fall to appreciate those often unsavory parts of his character.

The first half of this first half of season 7 (or 7a which is less of a mouthful) deals with bridge mending. On the surface everything is fine with Megan and their reunion at LAX is gorgeously shot and she looks amazing in the blue mini baby doll dress. It’s a marriage that has always been superficially fine, underneath it’s like they’re strangers. I do want to talk more about Don and Megan, but first I’d like to take a look at one of the fractured relationships and that’s with Sally.

Oh Sally, what to do with you and your supremely disaffected view on everything. Actually, to be honest Sally is well more adjusted and together than I was expecting and I figured there would be a lot more spiraling and teen rebellion. There’s smoking of course and holy shit is her stance the exact same as her mother, it’s uncanny and once again I would like to bestow all the plaudits on Kiernan Shipka – I would also like to see the Sally college spinoff that Molly Lambert suggested on Twitter. Other than that her greatest act of defiance has been shopping after the funeral (or during maybe) of her roommate’s mom, getting a nearly broken nose while ‘sword fighting’ which leads to some incredible Sally sass at her mother – “It’s a nose job, not an abortion” – and probably her biggest rebellious moment is smooching the nerdy kid instead of the stud. Her mother would not be happy with that last one, though I did worry they were heading towards a Betty going for the young guy story. Maybe Sean’s stripy pants (which are so Felix from Orphan Black) and moon landing bad mouthing put her off. Or she realized how gross it would be.

Wow that was a tangent and what I really wanted to discuss is the Don/Sally road trip that finally allowed Sally to rail against her father. Don finally showed his children where he came from at the end of season 6 and Sally is still justifiably angry at him for all those other secrets he kept. The anger and hurt in her voice as she spits out the word hairspray in reference to Sylvia is another astonishing delivery from Shipka and Sally’s rage at this shattering moment – I would say it took her innocence but seeing Roger getting a blowjob gets this unfortunate crowing glory – is what Don needs to hear to wake up to the asshole he has become. After the good, but not great season premiere this second episode delivered and Sally telling Don that she loves him at the end of the episode is one of the several scenes over this season that I suddenly found myself tearing up at. Before I dive too far down the Sally/Don rabbit hole, I want to ask what your thoughts are regarding this sequence of Don and Sally scenes?

Mad Men 7.02 Sally and DonKerensa: I think that after the last season–Sally’s come to see her father in a much different light. I think especially after seeing his childhood home, that it puts some of Don’s behavior in a context to her. I think Sally (and Kiernan’s always awesome performance) is at that point in teenager-dom where you being to recognize that your parents aren’t infallible which is always a cocktail of emotions–angst, respect, disbelief–and I think that’s where Sally is at with Don. Which I think echos in that final “I love you,” is that she appreciates that he’s opened up but does that change that much?

Mad Men 7.06 Megan and DonEmma: Yeah I think you’re very right and in a way Peggy’s experience with Don has echoed that of his daughter; realizing how fallible he is and how at times he can be downright awful. This season has been about Don proving to those closest to him that he isn’t a lost cause and he has certainly won me over. Contrition is important and it’s why his whiny baby drunk antics when he first went back to SC&P felt like an ‘uh oh’ moment. Luckily Don does have some capacity for change and Freddie Rumsen has been vital in Don coming to terms with his limitations and bull shit.

With Megan, the dissolution of their marriage seemed inevitable as no matter how hard either of them tried and how great they look together (and the shot of them on the balcony together is stunning). It’s all a facade and it always has been in a way; was the only time they were happy on screen when they were on their first trip to Hollywood and have they been trying to mimic that ever since? As a self-confessed Megan lover (and I’m pretty sure you feel the same way) I’m going to be sad if this is the last we see of her (in part because think of all the outfits we’re going to miss out on), but I’m also glad to see how they ended things. Not with shouting and screaming, instead with quiet resolution and acceptance this over. Or as Pete affirms that marriage is “a racket.”

We’ve barely seen Don interact with Betty all season, she refers to him as being like a bad ex-boyfriend and a fleeting memory and the strongest relationship he has with a woman is Peggy and to be honest I quite like it like this.

How do you feel about Don and Peggy this season?

Mad Men 7.06 Don and PeggyKerensa: I’m going to really miss Megan as well. I do kinda think that it will be the last time we see her though. I mean, what ties other than being Don’s wife does she really have with him now? She’s in LA, he’s in NYC. They don’t have kids. I’d be very happy to see her, but I think the resolution that their relationship came to felt perfect and in the changing scope of Don, felt adult.

I think your thoughts about the Peggy/Don relationship echoing the Sally/Don one are spot on. Don lashes out and Peggy and she to him because they know that deep down they are the two who truly understand one another. You can see that in the ways they both work, live and even love to a degree. I think that Don, especially during Peggy’s pregnancy, functioned as such a formative figure in shaping who she has ended up becoming. I think we can argue that at times that can be detrimental, but when you see her give her pitch to Burger Shack, it’s great to see that she’s beat the king.

Mad Men 7.07 hugEmma: I’m so glad we got to see Peggy get a win this big after how she started the season on her hands and knees crying in her apartment. When season 6 ended with that glorious pantsuit it seemed set for Peggy’s moment of triumph, but of course this isn’t that show and she still has many hoops to jump through. So to see someone like Lou in Don’s office rather than Peggy wasn’t a surprise and yet it was still disheartening.

Peggy hasn’t been completely innocent this season and I’m glad they haven’t shied away from how difficult and even awful she can be at times – the Valentine’s incident with Shirley is the best and most cringy example of this – she is Don Draper-esque in quite a lot of ways. Peggy pushes everyone away and her closest relationship is with a 10-year-old boy, which is incredibly depressing considering the child she gave up and just how alone she is. And yes I really want her to hook up with Stan still. We got that very cool scene of Joan joining Peggy for a drink and a Don bitching session and as always I want these two to rule the world.

What did you think about the power shift in the office first with Don’s absence and then with his return? Oh and Ginsberg’s breakdown – did you see that coming?

Mad Men 7.05 Peggy and GinsbergKerensa: I’m not totally surprised re: the power shift. Part of me obviously hoped that they would put Peggy in charge but of course Lou was brought in. And he’s the worst.

With Don’s return the skittishness of the office towards him made a lot of sense, especially for Peggy, cause I know I’d live in continual fear that Don would outshine me yet again which I felt a lot of her contempt stemmed from. But Peggy is really Don’s girl–so many of her actions echo his behaviors.

I actually wasn’t expecting Ginsberg’s breakdown. At first, I actually read it as he was trying to come out? But that SCENE, totally shocked me. It was very upsetting. Were you expecting it?

Mad Men 7.07 PeteEmma: The work place set up and power shift has been one of my favorite aspects this season even if the bi-coastal set up meant a whole lot less Pete Campbell as I love the weasel that he is. The conference calls and technology issues with this was fun as was seeing how well Pete took to the LA lifestyle as he always seemed like such an East Coast guy. Every outfit he wore in LA pretty much made me scream (with joy) as did his receding hairline and awful tan. Just how did he get a woman like Bonnie? (this of course also applies to Trudy and every other woman he has hooked up with, aside from hookers as the answer there is obvious)

Roger taking the death of Bert to step up and get his scheme on is magnificent as is how much disdain everyone has for Harry Crane and I was so happy that his path to power was cut down – even if he has good ideas and tipped Don off I can’t help but despise him.

My Twitter feed was full of a lot of “Holy shit, Ginsberg” before I saw the episode so I knew something was going to happen and as the episode progressed I figured he was going to trash the computer and cost SC&P a whole lot of money. Never did I expect what actually happened and my first reaction upon seeing the box was of course horror, but I also thought it was his ear at first because in terms of what people cut off that seems like the logical (if you can call it that) answer. It’s yet another occasion this season where Elisabeth Moss nails her reaction as she is terrified, shocked and heartbroken.

Hats off to Ben Feldman who has given Ginsberg this skittish energy since day one and didn’t play it as an “I’m so kooky” quirk or go way over the top with these moments of madness. I also got major character whiplash going from his performance in Mad Men to his one on Silicon Valley and even though it looks kinda terrible from the preview I will be watching A to Z purely for Cristin Milioti and Feldman. Like the lawnmower incident this is going to go down as one of those incredibly weird and fucked up Mad Men moments.

Last year we talked about how Betty got her groove back and this season Betty got the best line of the season – “I’m not stupid, I speak Italian” (closely followed by Sally’s “It’s a nose job, not an abortion”) – what did you think of Betty this year?

Mad Men 7.03 BettyKerensa: Ben Feldman has always been so great as Ginsberg and I’m totally looking forward to A to Z–even if it does look kinda terrible. He always played Ginsberg from a place of compassion when he, like you mentioned, could have gone the “I’m kooky” route.

Betty was Betty as always for me. Her trip with Bobby made me feel so bad for him. And I felt for her when she felt like she was being underestimated. But I would argue that her best line of the season was when she was looking back as Don as a “bad boyfriend” someone a “teen anthropologist would marry.” I feel like we didn’t get enough of her for me to fully form anything. What about you?

Mad Men 7.07 Sally as BettyEmma: The problem with the Betty storylines is that other than their shared children, the link to Don and the overarching story is tenuous and so it doesn’t always make sense to see what’s going on with Betty other than the fact that she’s a fascinating character. You’re right about that line, it is fantastic. The trip to the farm was heartbreaking because she really doesn’t understand anything when it comes to her own children; Bobby clearly adores her and yet she thinks the only one who still loves her is Gene. Bobby’s sandwich trade was a dumb move, but then again his mother’s relationship with food is a complicated one that he doesn’t understand. He probably thinks that cigarettes are her lunch now that she is thin again.

Betty’s standard position is envy – of her children, friends, neighbors, husband and ex – and while she can be unpleasant I never tire of seeing how she reacts to these situations. So with Francine (yay!) she sets out to show she’s a fantastic mom by going on a school trip she had absolutely no interest in previously, with Sally they bicker about everything and I was convinced she was going to go after Sean and his stripy pants just because Sally had shown an interest in him. Luckily Sally went for the more age appropriate Neil after he showed her the stars and went against the type of dude her dad is (which is not a surprise after the Sylvia incident last season).

For me, Betty’s crowning moment was standing up for herself against Henry – no she doesn’t want to go outside just because he does and yes she will give her opinions on Vietnam if she is asked. Betty had a habit of repressing everything when she was with Don in true WASP fashion and throwing up on her pretty dress was the way she showed her sadness and dissatisfaction. With Henry she’s not going to be a shrinking violet.

Have you got anything else to add about the first half of season 7? What would you like to see happen in the final 7 episodes?

Mad Men 7.06 Bob and KevinKerensa: I appreciate her standing up for herself with Henry as well which I think also speaks to the type of relationship that they have.

For the final 7, I want all the best things to happen for Peggy, Joan and Megan. I’d love to see the show actually explore what was happening with Stonewall and the beginnings of the LGBT rights movement but I don’t think that will happen. I’d love to see Don continue to grow but I don’t know if I think that will happen either, I really think he’s gonna backslide.

What are you hoping for?

Mad Men 7.05 SallyEmma: With the portrayal of the LGBT rights movement I wonder if the Bob Benson stuff in “The Strategy” is all we’re going to get when it comes to that. Hopefully Bob will be back for the final 7 for this reason and James Wolk reasons. His proposal to Joan was so ill-advised but I do understand where he was coming from and there’s no fairy tale ending for him in 1969 sadly, Joan still believes in love which is something I  didn’t necessarily expect considering how pragmatic she has become since having Kevin. Like you I want all the good things for the women of this show. I want to see Sally rule the world or at least get through school without a drug addiction; I have high hopes considering how well she is doing at the moment and how her rebellions have been pretty atypical of a teenager without veering into excess territory. Don’t fuck with Sally, Weiner.

This season ended on such a hopeful note that it’s making me feel somewhat optimistic for Don and I’m not sure if Matt Weiner is lulling us into a false sense of security with this. He is always teetering on the edge of oblivion and I have a friend who is convinced he will kill himself. I think this is maybe too nihilistic and I have hope that Don Draper will be alive at the end of the final episode. I’m not sure what state he will be in, but what I’m picturing is similar to how it started – a dude smoking and drinking alone.

I’d like to see some folks return, but I also don’t want it to turn into a blast from the past parade. Sal would be number one on that list, just to see where this character is now (and this also fits in with the LGTB rights movement) and yet I do understand why they might shy away from bringing back certain people just because they’re a fan favorite.

I’m also very excited to see more psychedelic styling and all things polyester from the end of this decade. It’s going to be pretty sad when this show is over and while I was ready to let Breaking Bad go because of how draining that show is to watch, I’m not sure I’m ready to say goodbye to these characters and for that reason I’m somewhat glad they split the two seasons up.

Kerensa:  Looking forward to what’s next–and I agree. Don’t fuck with Sally, Weiner!

Kerensa Cadenas is a writer living in Los Angeles. She is an Editor for Snakkle. She also writes for Women and HollywoodThe WeekThis Was TelevisionForever Young Adult, and Bitch magazine. She was the Research Editor for Tomorrow magazine. You can follow her on Twitter and read her ridiculous thoughts about teen television at her website.

Hand-Me-Downs, Helena and Identity on Orphan Black

23 Jun

“We’re so different, all of us.”

This assertion made by Sarah in the Orphan Black season 2 finale is by no means a bold statement as it has been clear from the outset that no one clone is like another (aside from the obvious matching faces). Nature vs. nurture is being won by the latter on Orphan Black and from a narrative perspective having such easily identifiable and contrasting characters helps an audience when these characters are played by the same actress (the formidable Tatiana Maslany and I could spend this entire essay discussing how phenomenal she is).

As I discussed in the Best of 2013 Orphan Black article costuming plays a big part in establishing who these women are; it helps to identify through non-verbal communication and provides a way for each clone to pretend to be another through clothing and accessories. The clone that has undergone the most changes is Helena and I want to take a look at how costume has been used to signify this and why she is the one person on this show that doesn’t have a definitive look beyond her wild blonde hair.

HelenaIn season 1 Helena’s white satin baby doll and scarred back gave the impression of a deranged angel and her feral instincts (and accompanying off kilter theme music) made her unpredictable nature a terrifying prospect for Sarah. There is far more to Helena beyond these moments of intense violence and she is someone who is easily impressed upon when a family is dangled in front of her; it’s why the Prometheans managed to get their claws into her with such ease. Sarah, her twin, changed everything and despite a battle to what seemed the death at the end of last year Helena comes searching for her “seestra” once more.

Light and dark are key components to both Helena and Sarah’s look as Sarah favors black clothing and Helena is often wearing the color of purity. It’s not a simple case of good vs. evil or ying and yang as these visual cues are disrupted by the presence of blood. Bloodstained clothes are an unfortunate side effect to all the shit Helena has been through and this is no more obvious than the wedding dress bathroom scene with Sarah in “Governed As It Were By Chance.”

Helena bloody wedding dressBlack and white with a big dollop of red; it’s a scene that is about terror and forgiveness, it’s also one of the most effective and devastating Orphan Black has delivered. I was initially worried when they revealed Helena hadn’t died at the end of season 1 that she would again be the unpredictable obstacle who obsessed over her relationship with Sarah and it would end up being a repeat of the previous year. What actually happened is Helena’s murderous side, while still bubbling under the surface was eclipsed by her heartbreaking desire to be part of something and to bond with her “seestra” and *if* I had to rank the clones (please don’t ask me to do that) she would probably be number one. I never saw that coming.

In the bathroom scene Sarah is dressed in her standard all black attire and Helena is once again in clothes that don’t belong to her. Angel and now wife, the innocence motif is strong with Helena and yet it is always subverted by something more sinister that has been done to her. Helena’s wardrobe consists of hand-me-downs and none of her clothes are ever truly hers; this character just can’t hold onto anything. In season one she dressed as Sarah (or rather as Sarah dressing as Beth) and outerwear helped mask who she was when she was initially targeting clones.

Borrowing clothes is what also happens when your current ones are covered in blood (and when these clothes also double for a wedding dress from a super creepy ceremony). Felix provides Helena with her next outfit (including a unicorn tee I adore) and this one is also an eclectic mix of style: Orphan Black HelenaBeetlejuice pants, another coat, unicorn tee and cowboy boots (these are not from the Felix collection and are from the farm). It is unlikely that Helena has ever had much to call her own as she grew up in a convent and so obtaining clothes from a variety of sources is part of why she isn’t fazed by the mismatched outfits she has worn so far. Helena’s identity exists outside of the clothes she wears and because of this she is probably the hardest of the clones to mimic. When Sarah doubled for Cosima she wore The Cosima Coat and pretending to be Alison through wardrobe involves pastels, Lululemon and a headband to hide the lack of bangs. Helena’s defining characteristic isn’t her attire, it’s her hair and it’s not easily faked.

Helena returns to the Promethean farm on the promise of children and a family; this means the Felix borrowed threads are ditched and replaced by ultra conservative attire with a hint of cowboy (those boots).

Orphan Black HelenaTerrible high necked white patterned night dresses ahoy! Oh and super invasive procedures too. The violation of the female body involves extreme methods on Orphan Black and Helena gets to exact her revenge with a giant needle followed by lighting a fire. Helena is rather Old Testament when it comes to these matters.

Orphan Black Helena plaidThe clothes she escapes the farm in for a second time are less ridiculous than the first and once again there is an element of innocence to her attire. This time she looks like a school child in plaid and the clashing patterned blouse beneath the uniform like dress once again gives the appearance of hand-me-down clothing. This is what she is wearing when she meets Alison and Cosima for the first time; it reflects the sweet, shy and longing for an emotional connection side of Helena that we have come to know this season – “I like your hairs” – and it is only when Cosima puts on a record that Helena allows some of her more eccentric qualities to shine through.

In the extraordinary dance sequence Helena starts off slow and then she finds the freedom her other sisters are displaying through movement. Helena’s dancing is wild as she headbangs with her glorious mane and there’s even a point where she bites the bottom of her dress. It’s why what happens to her next is so devastating as she is taken once again, just as she was finally feeling freedom and being part of an actual nurturing family with no hidden agenda.

Orphan Black 2.10 HelenaThe red coat comes from the farm and it’s another mismatched part of the Helena look (and also makes me think of Cosima) and the only costuming addition (and yet another piece of borrowed clothing) is the beanie and this does nothing to assimilate her with the ominous military figures surrounding her. It can’t contain her locks and her fear/confusion is etched all over her face. Reasons to take Helena center on the baby she is now carrying and separating her once again from the family she has just found feels incredibly cruel. Helena was about to go looking for Jesse – the guy from the bar who she shared her first dance and kiss with – she leaves behind his hat that she was sniffing so tenderly (as tenderly as something can be sniffed) and for Helena this one possession means a lot.

Each clone has a distinct personality and they share a strong ability survive despite the inherent weakness that exists in their genetics; together they are a formidable opponent and their vulnerabilities are exposed when they are pulled apart. Helena is a survivor and has already escaped from various tormentors who want to poke, prod and use her. This is another in a long line of personal battles for her and now that she is pregnant her self-preservation instincts are going to kick in even harder. Helena’s abilities shouldn’t be underestimated even when her appearance suggests otherwise as she is so much more than the unhinged fanatic we met in season 1.

The Americans Best Disguises of Season 2

21 May

Tonight is The Americans finale, concluding what has been an incredible second season as Philip and Elizabeth have skated even closer to danger. The disguises are of course a big part of the aesthetic, so I want to take a look at this season’s best looks and how they represent the ever growing dread and tension from the outset. It is 1982 so the frames are big and there’s a drab quality to a lot of the clothes; this isn’t the neon/bold print 80s that will come later. Generally they don’t want to stand out unless the mission calls for it so there’s a whole lot of short wigs for Elizabeth and era appropriate facial hair for Philip; blending in is what they do best. Oh and there might be some artistic license with what I call these disguises when a real fake name has not been mentioned.

The Americans 2.01Philip’s flashiest attire appears in the season opener and a wig malfunction for Cowboy Steve leads to the shooting of an innocent teenage boy and a look at how much glue is used to keep this hairpiece on. Not enough by all accounts and I’m guessing Philip has a good quality shampoo to keep his locks from being a gluey mess the entire time. Before disaster strikes, Philip’s Texas drawl and negotiations are going well as he looks rather menacing, if not out of place in his leather/suede combination jacket and aviators.

The Americans 2.02 PhilipMatthew Rhys has dubbed this disguise ‘Fernando’ but to me it’s Rust Cohle’s older brother. This costume is an Americans staple and he first used this in the pilot when he interpreted barbecue on a whole new level. It’s a multipurpose look and it’s rather unassuming as he uses it whenever he wants to play a blue-collar worker, allowing him access to areas that might otherwise be off limits. It is also how he came to meet Fred when he broke into his house as an electrician and now he has to wear this every time he meets with him.

The Americans 2.11 ElizabethHere is one of several wigs that has me asking “How do they fit Keri Russell’s hair under there?” and a recurring cover. This is Ann Chadwick from the Child Advocacy Center and she looks suitably bland. It’s all beige and big frames; there’s not meant to be anything fancy about someone who holds this position.

The Americans JenniferWe first ‘met’ Clark’s sister Jennifer at the wedding last season and Jennifer is a hoot and self-confessed Betty Buttinsky. It’s just as well, as when Clark is indisposed Jennifer can step up to the Martha wrangling plate, even if it means hearing about how Clark is an “animal in bed.” Not something you want to know when it is about your fake brother who is actually the love of your life. Philip and Elizabeth have been relatively solid all season except for the Clark in bed experimentation that goes horribly awry. Aside from this Jennifer is a fun and dorky look on Elizabeth, it’s just a shame it leads to one of the most heartbreaking/fucked up moments of this season.

The AmericansMore bureaucratic disguises and as CIA Security Elizabeth breaks free of those dowdy short wig/glasses chains for something on the funkier side. The same can’t be said about Philip’s facial add-ons. I can picture Valerie and Bob shooting the shit after work in a dive bar together and they’re definitely having an affair on the side. Yes it’s fun making up names and backstories for their covers.

The Americans 2.10 ElizabethIn “Yousaf” it is “bring your sexy disguise to work” day as both Philip and Elizabeth up the hotness ante. Elizabeth is all shoulder pads and plunging necklines, however Gloria Shoulder Pads is a double threat thanks to an interest in current affairs and she uses this as a ruse to get Yousaf to notice her beyond the heels and blonde hair. This is one of the most quintessential early 80s looks they have done so far – just look at that hair flick – and sadly this is all we get to see of Gloria Shoulder Pads as Philip brings in Annelise for the honey trap plot. Philip is reacting to how hesitant Elizabeth has been with using sex this season to get what they need, not that she has overtly said something and it also raises questions about how detrimental their real love is to their seduction performance.

The Americans 2.10 swimming capIn the same episode Elizabeth plays the unassuming Swimming Sally and pulls an assassination move in the pool. It’s the perfect disguise as the swimming cap and goggles obscure her face. I love the textured look of this swimming cap and how it reads on camera.

The Americans 2.11 Philip and ElizabethFlat caps, beanies and baseball caps are all essential components of ‘light disguise.’ Ditto wearing all black. It’s not as altering as any of the other disguises of course, but not all occasions call for wigs and glasses. Throw in a black turtleneck and this is when they look like classic spies (or maybe a cat burglar).

The Americans 2.11 PhilipVietnam Ted will pay for your meds and listen to your crackpot theories because he knows those theories have weight to them. Ted is Philip’s hairiest look and he also develops a rather gruff speech pattern to add to his disillusioned Vietnam vet demeanor. The brown suede and sheepskin coat looks pretty toasty and considering how much snow has featured this season (thank you Polar Vortex) it’s the ideal outerwear.

Be sure to stop by tomorrow when I will be discussing the season 2 finale “Echo” and for all our coverage on The Americans head here.

The Wish List: Chunky Knits, Tees and Patterns on Orphan Black

20 May

Each clone on Orphan Black has their own distinct look and their costuming is one aspect that signifies just how different they all are. The Cosima coat is still top of the ultimate wish list and somewhere between Cosima and Sarah is where my own style preferences stand. Sarah’s wardrobe is dominated by black and Cosima is all about pattern and color; there are also those who are romantically entangled with them and this wish list includes items from Cal (who would be on another kind of wish list) and Delphine. Plus, Helena’s new threads courtesy of Felix and it’s a big clothes sharing week.

Orphan Black Cal cardiganCal’s attire is outdoorsy and rugged with lot of chunky knits, plaid shirts and beanies; he looks like he’s always ready to bolt (just like Sarah) and can handle whatever shit is thrown at him. There is a mystery to Cal and his collection of fake IDs in “Ipsa Scientia Potestas Est” suggest he could be more involved than Sarah expects. Cal’s style is the opposite of Paul’s black tees/immaculate suits, but there is a chance that Cal has a military background like Paul and looks are definitely deceiving. This cable knit brown cardigan from Diesel looks super comfy and it’s probably why Sarah ends up nabbing it.

Orphan blackSarah doesn’t have a whole lot of clothes with her so it makes sense for her to lay claim to something that looks this cozy and she spends a lot of “Governed as if by Chance” instinctively wrapping it around herself. It softens Sarah, as does this connection with Cal. Sadly this cardigan might be lost to the murder/torture location of Rachel’s previously immaculate apartment.

Helena unicornHelena has spent far too long in various blood stained clothes from her off white slip last season to the wedding dress she escaped in. Thankfully Felix donates some of his castoffs in “Ipsa Scientia Potestas Est” to Helena including this maroon tee with a unicorn on it. Helena is a magical unicorn of a character and she is quickly becoming my favorite clone, so this shirt is pretty apt.

Costuming plays an important role in how we perceive these characters and so Sarah’s hard edge is tempered in Cal’s cardie; in a similar respect by giving Helena something that resembles regular clothes she comes across as far less feral. From this wonderfully sneery shot above, the mass of blonde hair and dark roots don’t even give off an air of instability.

Orphan Black HelenaHowever when you factor in the whole outfit Felix has donated, Helena looks just as erratic. Yep that’s a pair of cowboy boots, Beetlejuice-esque pants and a fantastic Felix coat. The cutting of the hair and Helena’s manic gaze, coupled with the strong blue light makes this big bag of surreal. Instead of wearing clothes that read as ultra feminine like a slip or wedding dress, Helena’s now got a more masculine ensemble and this seems like an intentional move as she has been horrifically violated.

Orphan Black CosimaCosima’s lab coat is never too far away and yet nothing about her style screams scientist as she’s the most boho of the clones. Mixing patterns and textures is a key element and in the shot above Cosima is wearing a cardigan with studded shoulders, two turquoise necklaces and a purple ruched waist dress from See by Chloé. Cosima also mixes baggy with fitted pieces and abstract prints tends to be the unifying theme. Cosima is comfortable in her own skin and this evident in how she presents herself.

Orphan Black horse shirtPattern isn’t restricted to Cosima and Delphine’s horse print collarless blouse shows that couples do sometimes mirror each other’s style (Sarah has literally borrowed from Cal’s wardrobe with his cardigan). This reminds me of this French Connection dress from last year and perhaps “put a horse on it” could become an extension of the bird of it all.

For more wish lists head here.

The Good Wife, Boundaries and Changing the Rules

12 May

Boundaries are important and these have shifted this season on The Good Wife; relationships are not what they were and the rules have been redefined. Loyalties changed, first when Alicia and Cary started their own firm and Will’s death has further altered the equilibrium. When Kalinda tells Canning “Or we could be adults, just ask questions and talk” it seems like the most simple and obvious statement, however this isn’t how things work in either the legal or political sphere and it’s all about gaining the upper hand by whatever method no matter how nefarious. Straight talking can make things even worse from hyperbolic off the cuff remarks to throwing a glass of water in someone’s face (actually that was pretty great) and there should be a certain amount of wall building, but there’s also a danger that you will cut yourself off from everyone as Diane is learning.

The Good Wife 5.21 Alicia and FinnAlicia’s arrangement with Peter is problematic for all the reasons Eli lists as someone is always going to talk, no matter how much you think they won’t. Peter might be an incredibly savvy politician, but when it comes to his emotional reasoning he runs hot. We see this in his interactions and face soaking of Castro, but Castro’s not going to yell about this from the rooftops and yet if he sleeps with this intern (with a blog) then he’s the biggest idiot there is. She will definitely talk (or blog) and yes I love that lipstick too. It also calls into mind this New York magazine Eliot Spitzer cover, after all that is who Peter is loosely based on.

The goal posts have been moved and Will’s death did act as catalyst, but it’s not just this and Alicia reiterates her feelings of being tired and done with this aspect of her life, this time to Eli. Eli tries to appeal to her from an emotional standpoint mentioning how good they have been together over the past year and while part of me knows this is part of Eli’s job, I do also think he is the only Alicia and Peter shipper out there. Enter James Castro’s smear tactic and Finn claims there is nothing hiding in his closet – as an aside it’s interesting that the word divorce pops up with his wife and why haven’t we seen Mrs Polmar yet? Is this why he moved to Chicago from New York? – Castro takes something innocent as a suggestion of something duplicitous. It’s a security photo of Finn leaving Alicia’s apartment, Castro claims it was from only two weeks ago but Finn is wearing his sling in the photo which he definitely hasn’t worn for a while now. Instead of showing the photo to Finn or Alicia, Peter barely shows it to Eli and gets in a huff about it. To Peter it’s another Will waiting to happen and he probably thinks this is partly why Alicia implemented the new rules. Peter has been given no choice in this decision and that’s compounding these bratty reactions.

Boundaries have always been important to Alicia when it comes to her relationship with Eli; she imposed them when it came to using the kids during campaigns and there’s always been frankness to their interactions. So when Eli mentions they need more walls at Florrick Agos he is talking about the physical kind and yet he needs to break down the mental ones that both Peter and Alicia have erected so he can do his job to the best of his capabilities. The reason he interferes with Peter’s interactions is because if Peter fucks up it could bring the whole thing crashing down and the way he watches the Florrick family at home shows just how vicarious his relationship with them has become. Alicia notes “we seem to share everything these days” and Eli really is the third person in this marriage and there’s this blurring of professional and personal responsibility.

Alicia and Cary’s case is all about a lack of filter and how words can be worth a whole lot of money. Diane is learning this the hard way as a smear campaign is being waged against her by Louis Canning as he’s using Will’s death to try and undermine her. This is pretty low tactic, but it is Canning after all. Diane’s only really ally at Lockhart Gardner is Kalinda and really if I had to have anyone in my corner it would be Kalinda. Kalinda unfortunately doesn’t hold much sway in the grand scheme of things and Diane realizes this is a fight she has to go at alone. Cary didn’t seem overly receptive to Diane and her problems so while I’d love to see Diane join their firm, there will be resistance.

Costuming wise there’s an interesting amount of color palette sharing between the three main women, a few weeks ago this happened with teal and once again there is a mirroring. Both Alicia and Diane wear monochrome:

The Good Wife 5.21 Diane monochrome The Good Wife 5.21 Alicia monochromeIt’s a flip reverse it take on monochrome with Diane in predominantly white and black dominates this look on Alicia. Diane’s includes a bow flourish standing in for the usual pin or statement necklace. The balance is off with both of these characters at the moment because of what happened with Will and these women are connected by their relationships with Will, as well as a professional and personal admiration for each other. It’s why Alicia doesn’t react in a hostile manner (as Cary does) to Diane’s accusations.

The Good Wife 5.21 Kalinda The Good Wife 5.21 DianeDiane and Kalinda both wear deep shades of blue in “The One Percent” and this color has featured heavily in their costuming recently. Blue means loyalty and it’s significant that despite their very different styling this is something they share. Diane is pretty exposed at Lockhart Gardner and the only thing that will ensure her position is her monetary worth to the firm. Her worth could be impacted greatly by Canning’s tactics and he is doing a very good job of making her very paranoid. Kalinda’s loyalty is vital and it’s another case of these women being tied together by their relationship with Will; he might be gone, but the bonds he formed are still very present.

Next week is the season 5 finale and there’s a fight brewing. I’m not sure it can top the dizzying heights of “Hitting the Fan” or the shock of Will’s death and yet I am also very excited to see how they are going to finish this exceptional season. Everything has dramatically changed since this time last year and I don’t even want to try to predict where these characters will end up in the aptly named “A Weird Year.”

Mad Men “Field Trip” Costume Design Highlights

28 Apr

With the Mad Men coverage this season I wanted to try something that didn’t necessarily follow the types of straightforward reviews that I have written on this site and others for previous seasons. So for the season premiere I showed an example of Mad Men influencing my style choices, last week it was all about the closing credits music and for the third episode “Field Trip” I want to take a look at some of the costume highlights from the episode.

Mad Men 7.03 MeganI’m pretty sure I had a bed spread and sleeping bag that resembled Megan’s blouse when I was kid; items from the late 60s/early 70s that my parents still used. They were pretty hideous like Megan’s blouse (swap the green for more brown and you get the idea), but now I find something rather nostalgically charming about this floral mess and I wish I still had them now. It’s like someone vomited flowers on this top and pairing it with a canary-yellow crotchet micro means that Megan would *almost* fit in at Coachella. She just needs to cut the sleeves off the blouse, knot it and she would be good to go.

Mad Men 7.03 BettyMegan’s style is always evolving; keeping in tune with her surroundings and what is featured on the pages of Vogue. Whereas the former Mrs Draper is all about simple glamour pairing her dress and jackets, the last time she looked fashion forward was on her trip to Rome with Don and that was all a facade. There’s the whole politicians wife look, but Betty is once again the Grace Kelly double even with these trappings. The frumpy fat days are long gone and Bobby still isn’t sure if his mom eats anything (hence why he traded her sandwich). This is where the sunglasses, cigarette and silent treatment come in. To prove her worth she drinks out of the bucket of milk, unlike the real farmer’s daughter she will always be wearing a bra and clutching her purse.

Mad Men 7.03 Anne DudekAnne Dudek! Beyond thrilled to see the return of Francine and she’s part of the reason behind Betty’s sudden interest in going on a school trip to the farm. One of Betty greatest weaknesses is how much she compares herself to others, sure we all do it, but Betty reaches new depths with her competitive streak. Look how great Francine looks as she excitedly gesticulates what she’s been up to and that’s working three days a week as a travel (something Betty tries to undermine by mentioning real estate, which Francine failed at). Francine’s matching coral pant suit is spectacular and she looks modern in a way that Betty’s pearls will never do. Betty is also shameless when it comes to name dropping and pretending that she doesn’t love to show off about her life. Betty still gets usurped as Francine has something Betty doesn’t and that’s fulfillment.

Mad Men 7.03 JoanJoan in a Peter Pan red rose covered dress and knee boots (not removing for Bert’s no shoe rule) is everything. I would wear this now.

Mad Men 7.03 PeggySame goes for Peggy’s green emphasized seem dress and things are looking less tween in Peggy’s work attire this week and yet she still gets no respect. PS. Peggy, Don’s taking your office, which they’re still calling Lane’s office.

Mad Men 7.03 groupStan’s going on safari, Ginsberg’s taking smart casual to a whole new cardigan/tie level, Peggy’s got prim down and Meredith likes what she sees while wearing one of the official patterns of this year; paisley.

Mad Men 7.03 DawnDawn’s got a new job and she’s gone for a sharper look and she’s killing it in this blazer. It’s a shame Don hasn’t paid much attention to all of these changes as he still gives her his hat and coat to put away, plus she’s still his go to coffee maker. Moving up, but only kinda. Another item for my closet and mustard list is that blouse, not sure how much I could work a collar like that.

Mad Men 7.03 RogerThe hippie and the rich man in plaid. It’s an odd combination and while Roger is still clinging to his place in the hierarchy at SC&P, he manages to show loyalty and business acumen by arguing why they need to keep Don. The LSD hasn’t completely ruined his capacity to show charm, wit and smarts.

Janie Bryant continues to produce costuming that adds rich textured layering to the viewing experience and also manages to make me feel nostalgic for items I cringed at having to use – that sleeping bag at sleepovers seemed like the ultimate embarrassment and now there is only love. One important figure who doesn’t feature this week in these shots from the episode is Don as his style is never evolving; does he have the capacity for change?

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