Tag Archives: Lyn Paolo

Scandal 3.06 Costume Review: Team Josie Marcus

8 Nov

It seems silly to suggest that things are heating up on Scandal because it never slows down and in “Icarus” it’s getting a little bit too hot for some. There are multiple threads with B613 and Remington moving in tandem, a hint at Harrison’s past and the campaign for the Democratic nominee is giving Olivia the distraction she definitely needs right now. The big bombshell that Huck and Jake dropped at the end of last week provides much of the impetus for Olivia’s actions this week and we also get a glimpse at her childhood. Familiar costume patterns show that Olivia is trying to keep the status quo and there is a superb discussion on image and what it means to be a woman courtesy of the Josie Marcus campaign. So let’s get to it.

Scandal 3.06 Armani coat

Olivia perfects her penetrating stare this week as she tries to get to the bottom of her mother’s death while not getting anyone else that she cares about killed. This trip to the Oval Office to turn down the request to work on Fitz’s re-election campaign is a fleeting visit and Olivia doesn’t even take off her Armani Collezioni funnel neck tweed coat (it’s very similar to this Stella McCartney one from a few weeks ago). Olivia spends a lot of this episode in grey, especially when she is dealing with anything Fitz related.

Scandal 3.06 campaign OliviaA couple of white jackets do make an appearance and she explains her choice of Josie over Fitz as her standard mantra “White hats people.” Olivia wears white when they’re trying to convince those with a lot of money to give to the Marcus campaign and in this scene they are trying to explain to Josie that to win she can’t just be nice, unless she wants to be President of Candy Land of course.

Scandal Lisa KudrowThat line pokes the bear and we get this delightful shot of Lisa Kudrow as Josie Marcus showing that nice isn’t her only move. Josie doesn’t want to be made into someone that she isn’t but at this point she doesn’t get the game like Olivia does. So far Josie is playing the baking and chat show friendly lady persona when she needs to be working on combining this personable charm with her leadership skills.

Scandal 3.06 Josie baking show Scandal 3.06 the view

Both of these TV appearances show Josie doing the rounds that campaigning politicians make, but with both of these examples it is highlighting her femininity in a way that can be edited together to make Josie seem nice, but inexperienced as a leader. One of the things that The Good Wife does so well is mirror the media commentary surrounding sex scandals and elections and here Scandal is showcasing their ability to do the same.

Scandal 3.06 pitcher of iced tea

When it comes to Josie’s big interview with James, Olivia and Abby use their earlier experience of being on the receiving end of Josie’s anger to provoke her into giving the interview that will give her the bump she needs. They know that she doesn’t want to be told how to change and while she would be pissed at their manipulation it does the trick and Josie proceeds to dissect the image BS and sexism that female candidates face. This includes terminology like ‘Cinderella story’ and the pitcher of iced tea that has been put on the table by James’ producer. They’re all subtle enough phrases or images that a viewer might not give it a second thought but it helps form a perception.

If Hillary Clinton runs in 2016 I’m sure we’ll have a lot of these kinds of things to look forward to. *Sigh* This includes talk of what the candidate is wearing and they’ve been smart with Josie because there’s nothing of note to mention; her clothes are neither too flashy nor too dowdy and that’s the point. The focus should be on her, not on what she is wearing.

Scandal 3.06 drunk Olivia

Olivia needs to be busy because when she isn’t, she is at home doing the above. Seeing Olivia this drunk and desperate sounding is new, wine is normally her solace and we’ve seen her down more than one glass in the past but never like this. Olivia does what I’m sure most of us have done in the past and that is drunk dial someone you shouldn’t, though this is normally reserved for romantic mistakes. Olivia calls her dad and wants to know what he did, Eli gives her one question but isn’t particularly forthcoming.

Scandal 3.06 pocket full of polka dots

While Olivia is dealing with family drama, Harrison gets to do something other than saying Gladiators as Cyrus uses a face from his past to motivate Harrison into getting Olivia to drop Josie as a client. Harrison has a pocket full of polka dots and looks as dashing as ever. While the name Adnan Salif sends Harrison into a tailspin and the arms of Huck (well not literally, he just needs a favor) I am so glad to have a hint at a Harrison backstory.

Scandal 3.06 serious Harrison

This also leads to this darker suit/shirt/tie/pocket square combo and while it’s lacking the color of Harrison’s usual attire it’s still giving the  Harrison power clashing signature style. Will Huck come through or will Cyrus get the mysterious Adnan Salif back in the US?

Scandal 3.06 Charlie and quinn

Meanwhile, Quinn is fed up of Huck ignoring her and being terrible with guns so she lets Charlie give her some lessons. Charlie can never be trusted so it’s no surprise that he is still in cahoots with Eli Pope. The hint of black lace on Quinn’s top and the close proximity between this pair as he demonstrates his gun skills (phrasing) would suggest that an unholy union is going to occur. Oh, Quinn. Quinn also earns herself yet another nickname as Charlie refers to her as Robin – this is much better than Baby Huck but still not great.

Scandal 3.

Huck is too busy hanging out with Jake – ok they’re working on top secret spy stuff – to worry about what Quinn is doing and I think this is something he will come to regret. The B613 crew like to wear a lot of blue, nice not a deep-V Jake.

Scandal 3.06 Abby and Olivia

Abby gets to spend most of the episode with Olivia and she is super happy to be on the Marcus campaign, Abby’s makeover continues to look wonderful and this week she wears more animal prints, long cardigans and her infinite supply of belts and necklaces.

Scandal 3.06 Abby

My favorite is this Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress for the simple reason that I always love DVF wrap dresses (see pretty much everything Alana Bloom wears on Hannibal). One major drawback was the lack of David this week, but there was more than enough going on for them to get a free pass on this absence.

Scandal 3.06 Chanel pearls

At the White House Mellie is not happy that she practically begged Olivia to come back and Olivia still said no. Mellie has another plan up her sleeve when she finds out that Veep Sally’s husband has a wondering eye. There’s a brief moment of sympathy from Mellie but she’s not going to waste an opportunity like this to get Sally to fall in line. So at dinner Mellie does her best subtle flirting at it turns out that Daniel Douglas doesn’t need much prompting to get a little touchy feely. The deep dark burgundy combined with the Chanel pearls look exquisite as Mellie has her game face on.

Scandal 3.06 push ups

What’s a guy to do while he is waiting for some important information other than do some push-ups? This is an apartment that has many lights and yet still appears to be incredibly dark at the same time. Maybe it’s a spy thing.

Scandal blurry FitzLike Olivia, Fitz does a lot of staring this week including out of this window and the blurry quality suggests that he is heavily conflicted. We don’t need the window to tell us this but thanks to what he did or did not do with regard to Remington he has a lot on his mind. When Olivia drops her mother bombshell there is a flicker of confusion on his face and this looks like the first time he has heard this story. He still won’t tell her what happened though.

The Remington plot is ticking along and the other pieces are starting to come together, but it’s Lisa Kudrow’s performance that elevates this episode from good to great.

Scandal 3.04 Costume Review: Trying to be a Good Girl

27 Oct

On Scandal last week Olivia Pope pretty much wore one outfit and to mix it up in “Say Hello to my Little Friend” there are nine costume changes for Olivia. The rest of Pope & Associates also show off their pattern filled closets and these might need downsizing if their financial troubles continue. So let’s get right to it as Olivia showcases her many white jackets and also throws in some rare patterned pieces.

KERRY WASHINGTON, MELORA HARDIN, PATRICK FABIAN, MICHAEL B. SILVER, DARBY STANCHFIELDOlivia in plaid is unusual even though this beautiful Ralph Lauren coat it sticks to her color palette, especially as Olivia is addressing the press. Olivia is facing a lot of turmoil in her personal life as she tries to ignore the plot her father is involved in and she wants to get back to “being a good girl.” Good girl would suggest the white hat but has Olivia come too far with everything she has done to reclaim that role? This shot also gives a better look at Abby’s wine colored Donna Karan draped cashmere coat that she wore a couple of weeks ago pairing it with another patterned scarf.

Scandal 3.04 Olivia on TVThis is one of the white jackets that Olivia wears in episode 4 and she is appearing on TV to talk trash about the girl that their client is accused of murdering. This is the look I expect from Olivia when she is creating spin to help her client and it is paired with a dark top; the battle between light and dark is a repeated motif this year. It’s hard to tell where Olivia is coming from this season and how much of this is intentional and over at The AV Club Sonia Saraiya addresses the confusing nature of Olivia’s motivations and why certain things feel a bit off.

Scandal 3.04 Olivia off white suitA classic Olivia Pope pant suit as she addresses her new client for the first time in front of the other associates; it’s not the bright white we see later in the episode and is entering grey territory. This reflects Olivia’s already wavering belief in this client as also represented by the plaid of her Ralph Lauren. The rest of the Gladiators in this shot are in their usual attire as Quinn is in the electric blue that has become her color this season, Abby is showing off another gorgeous blouse/pencil skirt combo and Harrison looks as dapper as ever.

Scandal 3.04 another white jacketWhite is Olivia’s uniform of choice and this double breasted white jacket is Olivia fits this description as she meets a potential client for the first time. This scene comes after her discussion with Jake about returning to normalcy so it’s not surprising to see her in something like this.

Scandal 3.04 a whole lot of patternAnother patterned piece with a textured wool blend jacquard Akris jacket showing another slight departure for Olivia as the case against their client gets stronger. Patterns aren’t really Olivia’s thing and the chaos that she is trying to control is showing through her clothing choices.

Scandal 3.04 will work for freePatterns are both Harrison and Abby’s thing as Harrison continues to power clash his tie with his shirt and Abby adds more animal print to her wardrobe with this Diane von Furstenberg leopard print silk blouse. The palazzo pants and Tory Burch leather and chain belt are part of Abby’s big wardrobe update and Lyn Paolo has been killing it with Abby’s styling this season. In this scene they tell Olivia they are willing to work for free and I think we need more backstory from both of them to reinforce this level of devotion.

Scandal 3.04 flirty AbbyMore form Abby’s new look and attitude as she attempts to coax David back on side as she visits him for a maybe lunch in this super sexy belted jacket and as I mentioned in the epic pre-season 3 Scandal chat, David and Abby are the couple I root for and it’s good to have one romantic story on this show that isn’t DRAMA all the time. More of this please to go with Abby’s fabulous new look.

Scandal 3.04 Donna Karan jacketBack to Olivia and another incredible jacket – I’m sure her coat/jacket collection could keep the electricity on at OP&A for a good year. This belted Kimono Donna Karan is stunning and as she tries to coax Jan Levinson from The Office into testifying for her husband she indulges in her favorite beverage. This piece covers the Olivia Pope color spectrum with ash grey, white and black and she shows off her amazing red wine not spilling power that I sadly don’t possess.

Scandal 3.04 white burberryBack to white with Burberry (of course) as the verdict is fast approaching. Olivia is in her armor but she has judged the situation wrong and a killer gets to walk free. I think it’s time for Olivia to question her gut as a judging device. Everything is all messed up.

Scandal 3.04 lounge wearThis of course leads to red win and lounge wear because what else can you do at the end of the day but pound a large glass of wine? I like Jake and I think it’s good to have conflict and obstacles with the central love pairing of this show but I also want to see Olivia without the ball and chain of a love triangle around her neck.

Scandal 3.04 Fitz at the funeralThe same applies for Fitz who I find a lot more watchable when it isn’t purely about Olivia. This is why his scenes at the funeral are interesting as it shows him apart from the political machine that has made him a dishonest figure (though really everyone on this show, aside from maybe David is a giant liar at times). Alas he soon gets dragged back in as Cyrus tells him “I would hate to see your conscience get in the way of your goal.” Oh Cyrus, ever the manipulator. This scene also features a wonderful soundtrack moment with Nina Simone’s “Wild is the Wind” accompanying this excellent and emotive scene.

Scandal 3.04 a tender momentThere’s another moment of honesty with Fitz in this episode and it comes from an unexpected place as he offers Mellie comfort and stands up for her after Cyrus berates her for the big microphone gaffe. Mellie is taken in by this for a second but then storms out; is she worried this is another part of their seemingly endless game of who has the upper hand?

Scandal 3.04 Mellie in pink

Mellie’s mistake (#MelliesBigFatMouth) takes place when she is looking at her most First Lady; wearing nurturing pink and her pearls. It’s a rare mistake and one that calls into question her already waning popularity. This runs parallel to Olivia’s reputation being questioned and shows they have more in common than they like to admit.

Scandal 3.04 definat Mellie in black

Mellie’s outfit choice after this blunder goes for the opposite of what Olivia would suggest as there is no soft color in sight, instead Mellie goes for black lace and her titanium looking pearls. She’s trying to downplay the moment to Cyrus who is having none of her shenanigans. Cyrus also gives out some fashion advice later in the episode as Ethan returns from Montana wearing cowboy boots telling him “We wear shoes, real shoes, thinking man’s shoes.”

Scandal 3.4 Lisa KudrowThis brings me to Scandal’s latest guest star and TV Ate My Wardrobe favorite Lisa Kudrow who only appears on TV screens in this episode wearing both red and blue jackets.

Scandal 3.04 more Kudrow on TVWhile there is not much to talk about regarding her costuming at the moment, she is happy to wear the color of both parties and Congresswoman Josephine Marcus is here to cause some political conflict. Cyrus thinks he has the way to take her down swiftly and regain the female vote but he hasn’t factored in the Olivia Pope and she will come into play next week as Josephine becomes Olivia’s latest client.

This episode pushed the Remington plot forward and introduced a new political foil. While Olivia’s motivations are spotty in places I am glad that we got a more Gladiator centric storyline this week. They could definitely broaden Harrison’s role but I will leave you with his excellent dance moment that almost makes up for his lack of backstory.

[Source]

Scandal 3.03: Staying in the Grey

18 Oct

Going from binge watching a show to seeing it week by week means that you get to pay more attention to the details. This helps with focusing on the costume design of Scandal; it also means that you can get a bit restless with certain storylines. This happened with “Mrs Smith Goes to Washington” as certain aspects like Mellie’s drunken diatribe worked, whereas the Remington barely there development felt frustrating. I understand that we can’t have everything all at once and I’m all for drip feeding information with these conspiracies but at the moment they are sacrificing the screen time of Olivia’s team and characters like David Rosen (who thankfully did get to take part in the overall case of the week).

Now to the costumes and while Olivia pretty much wore the same thing throughout the episode we still have plenty to talk about and coats take center stage once again.

Scandal 3.3 Olivia DKNY

Here is Olivia in a Donna Karan grey draped cashmere coat and Olivia’s coats tend to fall into two categories; structured form fitting trench coats and slightly over sized ones (belting is optional). This is part of the standard Olivia Pope color palette and it’s all about the blue/grey tones. Gone is the white of defiance and she is firmly in the moral grey; her white hat is locked away in a box somewhere.

Scandal 3.3 Olivia Armani

This shot is from the post bomb confrontation with Huck and it’s safe to say that Olivia has had a pretty terrible day. This is reflected in her disheveled appearance as her single button Giorgio Armani suit is bearing the marks of the bomb blast. It’s an eye opening chat as she discusses her father with Huck and Eli Pope is the puppet master of everything right now. While this story is being nudged along and the net of the conspiracy widens I also hope we get to see the focus shift back to Olivia Pope & Associates in the coming weeks.

Scandal 3.3 All the wine

Another big part of Eli Pope’s agenda is Jake who was freed last week and Olivia wants to know why. Jake claims that he doesn’t know, but he is also part of Remington and so he is an integral piece of the overall puzzle. Whether he is aware of this is unclear and while he’s got rid of his box beard he still has the cuts and bruises from his time down there. He’s also made himself rather comfortable at Olivia’s apartment and as he watched her for months he knows that red wine will be required. Maybe the Gettysburger was a mistake; it’s all about the popcorn after all. This final shot from the episode emphasizes Olivia’s point that this isn’t a fairy tale and there is no happily ever after.

Scandal 3.3 Happy family

Also not a fairy tale is this image of a ‘happy family’ as Cyrus talks photo opportunities as Mellie and Fitz argue about how best to feed baby Teddy. Mellie is wearing wine colored purple in this scene and this hints at the notion of royalty and power as she continues to have her battle of wills with Fitz; Cyrus attempts to play the role of referee. This doesn’t stop Mellie from one of her best insults yet as she refers to Teddy as the “son you could barely get it up for to conceive.” I see so much therapy in the Grant children’s future.

Scandal 3.3 Drunk MellieLater Mellie is in a very different shade of purple as she gets drunk in the dark. Fitz thinks that she is wallowing because Olivia wasn’t killed; in fact she is doing the opposite and the shot above is Mellie demonstrating what Fitz would have been like if Olivia had died a hero. The pearls are off and her hair has lost some of its volume, she is not pretending to be something she isn’t. Mellie spends a lot of her time manipulating everyone around her to get what she wants but she tends to be very honest with Fitz and no more so than when she has been drinking her dad’s hooch.

Scandal 3.3 Cyrus and David

Cyrus has another battle with David Rosen and while there isn’t much to say about either of their costumes (except David’s suits are much better this year thanks to his new job) this scene is a highlight as Cyrus tries the stone cold approach and David whips out his notepad of power to gain the moral high ground.

Scandal 3.3 Abby and David office

This is a situation where despite what he thinks David does not have the upper hand as he gets double teamed by Abby in person and Olivia on the phone; both know that David’s weak spot is his moral conscience and his love of white hats. I have somehow picked the most awkward moment in this scene and there is clearly still unspoken feelings between this pair. Abby once again looks incredible and wears another fantastic scarf/coat combination. For a better look at this DVF Tanaquil Suede Leather Combo Coat head here as the color blocking is obscured by Abby’s accessories.

Scandal 3.3 The office

While Harrison, Abby and Quinn have not had a ton to do so far in season 3 they at least get to look stylish in the office. Abby is in a polka dot blouse (no surprise that I want it) and the vintage Chanel gold belt is a really nice touch. Quinn is wearing a TV Ate My Wardrobe favorite as her dress is French Connection and Harrison is looking sharp in a suit (standard).

Scandal 3.3 Harrison

Harrison does get to leave the office and that means he gets to join the cool coat club. He also gets to pull his serious face of the week, but please can he get something more to do than looking snazzy and intense?

What is your favorite Scandal fashion moment from “Mrs Smith Goes to Washington?”

Scandal 3.02 “Guess Who’s Coming to Dinner?”: It’s All About the Coats

11 Oct

On the season premiere of Scandal Olivia wore a very striking white Burberry trench coat and in this week’s flashback episode she gave the audience at least 3 more reasons to have some serious coat envy.

So let’s get straight to it as we look at the costume design on “Guess Who’s coming to Dinner?” and the various coats from Olivia’s past and present

Scandal ep 2 Olivia StellaThe first flashback reveals this is five years ago and the light in the scene is softened to differentiate form past and present. It’s immediately clear even without this chyron that this is some time ago as Huck is homeless and living in Union station and this is the only point in the episode where we get a date stamp. The first flashback coat is a grey tweed Stella McCartney funnel neck and while Olivia is giving off a relaxed attitude to Huck as soon as her back is turned her expression changes and we find out that Sunday’s are dinner with dad day.

Scandal 3.2 Prada PurseThe coat that Olivia wears for most of the flashback scenes is a traditional looking camel Burberry trench coat and in the shot above you can also see the Prada purse that costume designer Lyn Paolo got shipped in for the episode. It’s the black version of the bag that Meryl Streep has at the start of The Devil Wears Prada. Last week’s big bunker moment saw a completely different Burberry coat/Prada purse combination and shows that Olivia is consistent with her designer choices. In this scene Olivia is so transfixed by her dad’s possible deception that while searching for the pen she literally throws the other contents on the floor.

Scandal 3.2 BurberryHere’s another close up shot of the Burberry coat and pretty much all of Olivia’s coats and jackets have amazing buttons on them (I’m a sucker for great button details).

Scandal 3.2 McQueenIn the present Olivia is also having frantic and threatening phone calls and here she is showing off both her old school looking Fitz only phone and her white backed (off course) smart phone. The navy blue Alexander McQueen jacket is what I want to focus on and once again it’s all about the buttons. This the kind of tailoring we expect to see from Olivia when she is in full crisis mode and it also reflects how buttoned up her character is as she rarely lets anyone in.

Scandal 3.2 white pantsThis is paired with white trousers and the light/dark motif is repeated in the flashback scene where Olivia meets David Rosen for the first time.

Scandal 3.2 Meeting David RosenThe difference here is that Olivia is wearing a skirt and this goes against her pants only work wardrobe. This is prior to Olivia’s big dad discovery and involvement with Fitz and a lot has changed in the last five years for this character and her clothing has evolved with these personal changes. David looks different too, his suit isn’t tailored showing he isn’t making all that much money – he jokes that he should have gone into corporate law. His glasses have heavier looking frames and yes that’s a goatee. It’s a small scene but I’m glad to see how these two crossed paths and how David inadvertently helped Olivia discover the truth about her dad as he’s always a strong purveyor of the truth.

Scandal 3.2 white dressAh yes Eli Pope the man who is Command and this episode filled in a lot of the blanks about Olivia’s fraught and estranged relationship with the man who didn’t really raise her. In the scene above Olivia is in her defiant color – she’s wearing a white dress so we know she means business and this is where she threatens her father to get Huck back. Of course Eli has his way of showing his daughter just how powerful he is and that involves hurting Edison. Eli Pope might look meek in his Sunday sweater but he’s one scary dude.

Scandal 3.2 HarrisonHarrison isn’t as scary as Eli but he’s pulling a face to suggest that Olivia needs to do something and do something now. All while looking snazzy (standard) in another power clashing ensemble. Now that we know pretty much everything about Huck can we please find something out about Harrison? He’s still pretty much a blank slate right now.

Scandal ep 2 AbbySame applies for Abby and while we know more about her than say Harrison, her background is still full of holes including what exactly prompted this awesome new look. This is a lot funkier than anything we have seen Abby in before and it could be as a reaction to everything that happened with David, whatever it is I hope we continue to see more of this side of Abby. That’s a nice flash of leopard print.

Scandal 3.2 DKNYAbby also gets to join Olivia in the amazing coat club with this DKNY wine colored cashmere shawl collar coat and it compliments her amazing raven hair. Good scarf accessorizing too.

Scandal 3.2 shoppingEverything is about perception which is why they take Jeneane shopping and they need something current but classic and professional yet relatable. This is what Olivia is an expert in and it’s why she has been so good at creating an armor for herself out of the clothes she wears.

Mellie cobalt blueRandom observation time but is it more than just a coincidence that Mellie and Quinn are wearing the same cobalt blue color? Mellie is aware that all of her snooping is bad – when Cyrus calls her evil she simply responds with a “You’re welcome.” Whereas Quinn is tapping into her dark side and not realizing the consequences of her actions; this involves Olivia’s emails and accidentally revealing that Olivia’s father is actually the head of the program that ruined Huck’s entire life. Pretty sure Olivia is going to be super angry when she finds out that Quinn has been looking through her emails. Mellie is learning the hard way that her meddling is having the opposite effect of what she hoped.

Scandal 3.2 MorgueOne final coat and it’s in the present viewed through the smeared windows of the morgue that Olivia checks throughout the episode for the missing Jake (he turns up at the end beardy, bruised, bloody and alive at the end of the episode). This is a grey Max Mara belted shawl coat and it’s another one to add to the “Olivia Pope Coats I Covet” list (see also the “Virginia Johnson Coats I Covet” list).

What is your favorite outfit from the episode?

Scandal 3.01 “It’s Handled” Costume Review

4 Oct

It’s back! After a summer of catching up with Scandal, talking about Scandal, predicting what Olivia Pope might wear and admiring what star Kerry Washington has been wearing we can finally talk about the season 3 premiere. This is going to be a different kind of review as I’m going to be looking at the costuming and how this adds to the narrative and tone of the episode. Costume designer Lyn Paolo has done an excellent job of establishing key aspects of a character’s wardrobe – such as Olivia never deviating from wearing pants in the office – and I will be looking at how this informs a scene and how it evolves over the season.

Scandal 3.1 Olivia Burberry Trench

The centerpiece outfit is this incredible Burberry Prorsum Caped Duchess Satin Trench Coat and it acts as armor for Olivia; it’s what Olivia wears to tell her father that she is never out of options and as she tries to work out the best solution with Fitz and Mellie. Olivia has worn other more traditional Burberry trench coats in the past and there is a powerful image that this silhouette produces as Olivia walks with determination to her destination. We’re not used to seeing Olivia backed into a corner like this and while she is trying to give off an image of control her expression reveals how hurt and lost she is feeling. This piece features in the “Storm is Coming” promo photos and it’s one that I wrote about in the Fantasy Costuming series back in July (yes I still can’t believe something I picked something that features this heavily in the season premiere).

Scandal 3.1 Mellie and Olivia

If you knew nothing about this show then the image above quickly identifies the two opposing styles of the women in Fitz’s life. Mellie is very traditional and while she rails against the notion that as First Lady she is ornamental not functional she knows how to dress the part. Block colors are very much part of the Mellie look and here she wears midnight blue to emphasize that in her position no matter how ornamental, she still has power and authority even in the presence of the woman that Fitz really loves. Despite their differences Mellie and Olivia are mirroring the other with arms folded as they try to resolve this situation. Olivia is very much in what you would consider work wear – her uniform consists of well tailored pant suits and the costuming shows a clear divide between the roles these women play.

Scandal 3.1 Mellie in black

Olivia lays out what color Mellie should wear when they tell the press about the affair details, she tells her to wear a soft color like lavender and as you can see from the photo about Mellie goes in the opposite direction with black. Mellie is clearly not on board with Fitz and Olivia’s plan and this is because she has figured out that Fitz is the one who leaked Olivia’s name. She’s ready to go to war with Fitz and by dressing in black she is mourning the death of her marriage (which died a long time ago) and shows that she is not backing down from this fight. While the cut is still very much in the First Lady tradition, it’s going against the vibrant color palette that we normally associate with Mellie. Gone are the regular pearls too and the necklace she is wearing looks like pearls made from gun metal which is appropriate given all the war talk with Fitz.

Scandal 3.1 Fitz as Kennedy

While Fitz’s costuming is pretty much what he has always worn, I really like the above shot as it’s reminiscent of this JFK portrait and the image of Kennedy has already been mentioned earlier in the episode. Fitz also pulls a move when he takes off his jacket that at first suggests that he expects some sexy time in the bunker, instead he pulls Olivia into a very different kind of embrace as he comforts her. I’m not Fitz’s biggest fan as he tends to act like a horny teenager a lot of the time so this was a very pleasant surprise.

Scandal 3.1 Olivia and Harrison

Olivia returns to the office mad as hell because of the role her team played in choosing an innocent woman to get Olivia off the hook. Harrison is all “There’s nothing wrong with a little self-preservation” showing that these gladiators sure like to live in the moral grey areas. As always Harrison is impeccably dressed and by mixing a polka dot tie with a gingham shirt he shows that power clashing is something he does with both his clothes and with his boss. Olivia is in her usual work wear and I wonder if we will be seeing more dark shades after this experience. I don’t think she will be wearing the white hat that David gave her anytime soon.

Scandal 3.1 Quinn and HuckQuinn jokes that they should find a bad intern they can blame again who can end up dead, well she made it seem like a joke but considering how she took to torturing at the end of season 2 part of her is probably being serious. From the way Quinn dresses you wouldn’t be able to tell that she is developing this darkness and she wears the brightest colors in the office. Her costuming is still very girly and this gives her an unassuming quality.

Scandal 3.1 AbbyThere’s something different about Abby this season her poker straight hair has been transformed into this gloriously wavy style (something I have praised about Darby Stanchfield’s red carpet look). We’ve been promised more Abby backstory this season and her style has evolved from being somewhat uptight to this more relaxed and confident appearance. Her relationship with David might have something to do with this and while it doesn’t look like they are back together there was definitely something that bordered on flirtation in the premiere. Abby is one of the only characters that calls Olivia out and so this confidence might also be down to feeling less like one of Olivia’s fixing projects and something nearer to an equal, especially as Olivia has a problem that needs to be fixed now.

A really strong start to the new season and I’m looking forward to discussing how the costuming on Scandal informs and adds to the experience of watching this show.

TV Costume Designers and Impacting Fashion

19 Sep

TV Ate My Wardrobe isn’t surprised to read that TV costume designers are having an impact on fashion at the moment, as The New York Times proposes in an article today. This site was born out of an interest and passion for costuming on TV and while other avenues are explored on a daily basis this is still at the heart of what we do here. Costuming can aid the storytelling process, but we also look at trends on the runway that filter through to stores. What is featured in magazine editorials can impact what we see on screen, but as we have seen with shows like Sex and the City and Mad Men they can have just as much influence on style as the fashion houses themselves.

Olivia Pope leather gloves

One aspect this article from The New York Times discusses comes from Pretty Little Liars costume designer Mandi Line as she explains that in her interview she stated “If you let me make fashion the fifth character on this show, people will watch it just for the clothes.” This is something that can probably be said about a show like Gossip Girl which I have recently realized that I miss purely for the clothes. The way costuming can appeal can be dependent on the target demographic and with something like Pretty Little Liars Instagram reveals how fans of the show compare their clothes to the ones they see on screen. Costuming can help create buzz and a show like Scandal has benefited from these types of discussions, especially now that star Kerry Washington is covering major fashion magazines and landing on every best dressed list. Lyn Paolo has done an excellent job not only with Olivia Pope’s wardrobe, but with each character’s clearly defined look. In the pilot episode of Scandal the notion that they are “Gladiators in suits” was repeated and now both Olivia’s team and fans of the show use this moniker.

NG_Neighbors-Sc9_0017 The time between when a TV show is made and when it airs is often relatively short and so this immediacy means that the clothes we see on screen are still often in stores. While you might not be able to afford the Prada purse that Olivia Pope uses, the J Crew sweater that Jess wears on New Girl could be a more affordable option. Websites such as What Would Zooey Deschanel Wear? and its broader ranging sister site Worn on TV not only find where to buy the clothes you see on screen, but also cheaper similar looking alternatives.

Elementary costume designer Rebecca Hofherr talks about how “TV deals with realistic issues and more realistic clothing” as opposed to film which might deal with more fantastical subjects. While I’m not a proponent of any TV vs. film debates I think TV can have a bigger impact on personal tastes because shows air on a weekly basis and so we see style evolution over a period of time. Characters become familiar to us and so as viewers it can be easier to identify with them and their look. There’s also a variety so one week I might see Joan Watson wear a scarf I really like and another will have me adding an April Ludgate shirt to my always growing wish list. You can sample many different looks across many different shows.

banana-republic-mad-men

This also covers period costuming and as I’ve mentioned Mad Men has influenced fashion in a major way and costume designer Janie Bryant has managed to create a brand thanks to her excellent work on Mad Men. Bryant has developed pieces with Maidenform (also a client of Sterling Cooper), Banana Republic and Brooks Brothers. There is also a reality show on the way from Janie Bryant that will give aspiring designers a chance to show off their skills by recreating classic Hollywood film costumes and celebrity signature styles.  Having just finished watching the Masters of Sex pilot I can confirm that there was a high amount of sweater and coat envy; as the colder season approaches I’m sure this will have some impact on forthcoming purchases even though it is set in the mid 1950s.

It’s not surprising to read that Good Wife designer Daniel Lawson is developing a line of clothes for professional women, or that Lyn Paolo is contemplating a book that will include Scandal related tips. Eric Daman whose previous credits include Sex and the City and Gossip Girl is now the costume designer for The Carrie Diaries and one of his non-TV related projects is a prom collection for Charlotte Russe. Girls and Orange is the New Black’s Jenn Rogien is currently one of Gap’s “Styled By” experts producing a series of style tutorials. For these costume designers they are diversifying their work and using their expertise on projects that relate to the TV work that we are familiar with. We have seen what these designers can do on screen so we know where their strengths lie and so there is already implied trust that they can produce excellent work outside of the TV show they design for.

A costume designer isn’t there to simply make the characters look good or to sell clothes; they help add another layer to the storytelling process and can inform the viewer to certain characteristics without a single word being said.

Fantasy Costuming Fall 2013: Dressing Olivia Pope

23 Jul

TV Ate My Wardrobe’s Fantasy Costuming series took a brief hiatus and now that all of Scandal has been consumed it’s time to turn to one of the most talked about characters currently on TV. Olivia Pope is an interesting figure beyond her clothing of course, but aspects of her wardrobe set her apart from the usual Washington D.C. power suits and the lack of navy and red makes her stand out from the political crowd. Scandal costume designer Lyn Paolo isn’t a stranger to the White House scene as she worked on The West Wing. Even though they share a location Scandal is far removed from the that version of politics and creator Shonda Rhimes told Entertainment WeeklyI feel like The West Wing brought us Washington as we’d all want it to be. And this show brings us Washington as we hope it would never be.”

The costuming of Olivia Pope is far removed from Aaron Sorkin’s politic world (Mellie would probably fit right in as her First Lady pieces are pretty traditional). The first thing that is striking about Olivia is the amount of white she wears and this intentionally reveals several things about how she wants to be perceived – she’s the good guy, she’s not on the red team or blue team and there is a calming presence to her limited and neutral color palette.

Kerry Washington recently tweeted “I’m CRAZY excited about this #Scandal fitting that I am about to have with @LynPaolo – like giddy butterflies kinda excited. Wow” and so to fill in the time between now and the new season we wanted to find some potential outfits for Olivia Pope from all corners of the internet both high end and more affordable. For those who might love Olivia’s wardrobe, but might not want that much white in your wardrobe then we’ve got a few pieces for you. The gowns that Olivia wears are impressive (and sometimes one of a kind) but we’ve decided to focus on work and lounge wear.

French Connection Olivia Pope

French Connection A/W ’13 

Feminine tailoring is a key factor when it comes to the Olivia Pope look and this “Pop Dot Woven” jacket and matching pants from French Connection is an affordable way to deliver this sharp style. This outfit creates the all important silhouette and uses the key tones that we see in Olivia’s office wear. The contrast piping breaks down the polka dot texture, as do the black lapels, cuffs and pocket details on the jacket which help give it a structured appearance.

Burberry Spring 2014

Burberry Prorsum S/S ’13

Out of all of Olivia’s amazing clothes it’s not her incredible gowns that we here at TV Ate My Wardrobe covet (though we wouldn’t say no), instead it’s her vast collection of coats that take our fancy. Washington D.C. can get rather chilly in the winter (both the weather and politically) and so it’s only appropriate that she has so many. While we’ve already seen Olivia in a traditional Burberry trench, this more embellished “Double Duchess Caped Trench Coat” from Burberry Prorsum adds a modern twist with the canopy cape. While costume designer Lyn Paolo has said they try to avoid anything that is too catwalk, this version of the Burberry trench maintains the traditional look and enhances it without being too showy.

Carven mint-green

Carven

Mint green works on the Olivia Pope color spectrum and these Carven double crepe pants might be from last season (now on sale with more than half off) but pastel colors are here to stay and feature in collections for the fall. Olivia has worn green before in a slightly warmer shade than this in the episode “Whiskey Tango Foxtrot” that saw a 10 month jump and showed Olivia trying to move on with her life (and failing to do so).  Hopefully if she was to opt for green again it would be under better circumstances; judging from how season 2 ended this is unlikely.

Maison Martin MargielaMaison Martin Margiela MM6

Not only does Olivia have a vast array of coats, but her lounge wear collection is also pretty impressive. Olivia is just as happy at home on the couch eating a bowl of popcorn and drinking red wine as she is fixing things and this grey oversized cape cardigan from Maison Martin Margiela MM6 is perfect. Luxurious knitwear seems like the worst idea as it’s super hot at the moment but come the fall when Scandal returns this won’t feel like such a ridiculous idea.

Reiss

Reiss A/W ’13

Another office look for Olivia and this one maintains feminine and slim-cut styling, while also featuring a harsher edge thanks to the “Ezra” leather skirt. This wouldn’t be the first time we have seen Olivia in leather as she has worn olive leather leggings in the episode “Seven Fifty Two” (paired with a Burberry trench) and of course there are those many leather gloves. Black leather gives off a strong impression but pairing it with the “Mimi” frill neck and sleeve top offers a soft compromise. Olivia is going to have new challenges when Scandal returns so it is likely that her costuming will evolve.

Would these outfit choices get the Olivia Pope approval?

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