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Tag Archives: Jenn Rogien

The Wish List: Mimi-Rose’s Pajamas and Khaki Jacket on Girls

10 Mar

When Girls shot its fourth season over last summer it became clear that Gillian Jacobs would be playing a love interest of Adam’s and we were left pondering how/why Hannah and Adam would implode. The pap shots showed Jacobs wearing what first appeared to be a pair of hospital scrubs with a khaki paint splattered jacket over the top while holding a bouquet of flowers. Was she just getting home from the night shift? On closer inspection the scrubs are in fact pajamas and Gillian Jacobs is definitely not playing a medical professional on the show.

Gillian Jacobs

[Source]

Instead Mimi-Rose is an artist as the paint splatter might suggest, but nope that was already part of the Zara jacket – thanks to Girls costume designer Jenn Rogien for answering this mystery on Twitter – and it’s part of this well crafted minimalist look for Mimi-Rose.

Girls Mimi RoseThis jacket makes a repeat appearance in the following episode “Ask Me My Name” pairing it once again with pale blue (of the double denim variety) and shows reusing pieces in the same way a person would in real life always makes me more thrilled than I probably should be.

Girls ask me my nameAlas the Zara jacket is no longer available – these episodes did shoot back in June so it is not surprising – but there are some on eBay. In better news Mimi-Rose’s classic J Crew pajama set is still on sale for all your comfy bedtime/flower shopping needs.

J Crew pajamas

For more from the TV Ate My Wardrobe wish list series including Jane the Virgin and the final season of Parks and Recreation head here.

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NYFW Fantasy Costuming: Rachel Antonoff Fall 2015 for Girls

14 Feb

The first Fantasy Costuming of 2015 courtesy of New York Fashion Week and Rachel Antonoff’s Fall RTW 2015 collection is a mixture of subversive whimsy. Scrolling through the photos it became clear rather quickly that this selection is ideal for the characters on Girls. There is a preppy edge to some of the pieces; which is perfect for both Marnie and Shoshanna, plus Hannah has a tendency to lean this way.

Even as the characters on Girls continue to grow up they can fall back on old tendencies which is why the provocative edge of some these pieces is dream wear for Hannah. And she has definitely worn something that resembles pajamas while out and about cycling in Iowa. A family connection is also present as Rachel Antonoff’s brother Jack is dating Lena Dunham and Hannah has already worn Rachel Antonoff on the show including some very lovely shoes in season 2. As always the Fantasy Costuming selections are inspired by the costume design from the show in question – Jenn Rogien- and are in no way suggesting this character should wear a specific item mentioned.

Rachel Antonoff ovariesA sweater with the female reproductive system pretty much screams Hannah as it is comfy and a little daring. Of course Hannah and Lena are not the same person, but it is pretty safe to say they hold similar views on the reproductive rights of women.

Rachel AntonoffContinuing the tradition of Hannah wearing very cute dresses on occasions such as at Jessa’s wedding, her birthday, dinner with her parents and after she got her first big paycheck with this floral offering. For more Hannah picks check out the gallery at the bottom of the page.

Rachel Antonoff pleatsPleats and tartan for Shoshanna as a reaction to marathoning Outlander and trying to find her very own Jamie. Shoshanna is the one who changes her look the most dressing with a theme or occasion in mind.

Rachel Antonoff cropAnd this is more party wear for Shosh with a matching polka dot crop and skirt number.

Rachel Antonoff RTW 2015Marnie is trying to do the whole boho folk singer thing but we all know she is a preppy girl at heart.

Rachel Antonoff summer dressAnd here is something for Marnie and a return to the beach house for the sophisticated bonding trip she desired. Okay that probably won’t happen but she can still wear this is flirty girly frock.

Rachel Antonoff maxi dressBotany is one of Rachel Antonoff’s points of reference here and Jessa has been known to rock a hippy-esque maxi dress (okay maybe to hide Jemima Kirke’s pregnancy).

Check out the gallery below for more looks for Hannah from Rachel Antonoff’s Fall 2015 collection and stay tuned for more NYFW Fantasy Costuming.

Out of the Box: Look of the Week

5 Dec

Award shows and end of year celebrations are upon us which means fancy frocks aplenty. This week’s “Out of the Box” also includes a magazine editorial with someone who is making the style round up for an immense fourth week in a row.

Amy RyanAmy Ryan looks delightful at the Gotham Awards doing the black and winter florals thing with aplomb. Major red lipstick points and her shoes are fantastic.

Jenny SlateAsymmetric peplum is not the easiest of looks to work, but Jenny Slate is killing it in this Roksanda skirt and top. Black nail polish was on trend at the Gotham Awards and there’s a whole ’40s vibe to this look. Imagining Janet Snakehole’s pillbox hat and cigarette holder as accessories (I pretty much always want Janet Snakehole’s hat).

Ruth WilsonThe final of the three Gotham Awards looks is one that could be a big ball of huh, however I am all in and Ruth Wilson’s Dior ensemble with the oven mitt front pocket and crinkly top; I just really like the color combination. Soft pink lipstick with this updo and the silver metallic shoe goodness sets the whole thing off.

Michelle Dockery British Fashion AwardsMichelle Dockery continues to make style choices that go way beyond English Rose blah and at the British Fashion Awards she wore this foliage fantastic Erdem while presenting Erdem Moralioğlu with the Womenswear Designer of the Year accolade.

Gillian Jacobs FlareMoving on and it is the fourthOut of the Boxin a row for Gilliam Jacobs. Covering the new issue of Flare Jacobs once again gives good quote and pose. After Bust’s ’60s inspired shoot this is very much in the present and the Timo Weiland skirt and top combo paired with super funky Alexander Wang shoes is already giving me ideas for spring. Jacobs discusses the two TV shows she successfully landed in 2009 and why she choose Britta “It was a real Sliding Doors moment. My character on The Good Wife was sort of peripheral, Community was more central.” I adore Britta and even more I adore how much Jacobs loves this character “It’s more interesting and fun to be flawed. I also love that Britta bounces back no matter what.” Jacobs also briefly discusses her forthcoming Girls appearance with little detail aside from asking costume designer Jenn Rogien to steer clear of the very Britta stripes and leather. 

TV Costume Designer Secrets Revealed at Vulture’s First Festival

29 May

Costume designers from some of the shows TV Ate My Wardrobe covers extensively took part in a panel at the inaugural Vulture festival a few weeks ago and it is about time a roundtable like discussion went beyond just the actors, directors and writers. It is a discussion I have been highly anticipating and it doesn’t disappoint as the costume designers talk about their process and the shows they work on in an insightful and detailed manner.

The panel consists of Lyn Paolo (ScandalShameless), Jenn Rogien (GirlsOrange is the New Black), Jenny Gering (The Americans) and Tom Broecker (SNLHouse of Cards). Scandal and The Americans are two shows we cover extensively on an episode-by-episode basis and Girls is another TAMW regular. We’re also pretty excited that season 2 of OITNB lands on Netflix in just over a week!

Vulture Festival costume designersA variety of genre, time period and socioeconomic situations provide the backdrops these costume designers work on. One of them has to deal with a live show and the parameters for that are very different from working on a pre-filmed comedy. Live TV is generally chat show based which is all about wardrobe rather than costume design, not SNL where a sketch can get changed at the last minute and Broeker’s 20 years working on the show has informed how he handles these quick turnarounds. Time constraints are something all panelists have to work with as scripts can come in very late; Lyn Paolo mentions this can be as late as the night before on Scandal, so she preps a lot ahead of time.

One important aspect they all agree on is what is on the page is the biggest influence and it is the writing that informs their design process. Sometimes this can be incredibly vague and Jenny Gering mentions how the disguise descriptions on The Americans are often sparse in detail. The disguises are not meant to call attention, they should be invisible and this is part of the reason why it will say “generic bureaucrat” and nothing more. As it’s a period show, costume helps establish time and place without distracting from the story they are telling. It’s why their version of the 80s is not about the big trends, especially on the adults as this wouldn’t be how a regular mom in 1982 would dress and especially one who is trying to fit in. Gering goes on to talk about the evolution of Paige and how as a 13/14 year old girl this is a very transitional period in her life where she wants to look older and be taken seriously. In the season finale while they are on their impromptu mini-vacation Paige very much looks like a mini version of her mother in similar sweaters and heeled boots; the slight tightening of her clothes/heel addition reflects her desire to look older.

Evolution of a character through costume is something all the panelists talk about and Jenn Rogien mentions color palette and silhouette changes over the three seasons of Girls. Shoshanna started with a very feminine shape and cosmetic color scheme of blush pinks and pastels, in season 2 yellow and purple were added and by the third year she has graduated to stronger color and way more black. Shoshanna has become more aware of her body and so her very feminine style has been altered in response to this sexual awakening. Silhouette and color reflect how the “emotional landscape” has either become looser or tighter. Marnie has relaxed over the seasons and so her costuming reflects this. It might explain the beanie.

Rogien has a lot more restriction on how she portrays character evolution on Orange is the New Black as everyone pretty much wears the same thing and the prison uniform reflects the loss of identity through the khaki color and baggy fit. Some characters have altered their uniform, but only the ones who would have the ability or inclination to do so and Sophia is an example of this as her khakis are a lot more fitted and feminine.

On Scandal Abby and Quinn’s style has shifted the most from where it was in the pilot; Abby fell in love and so there’s less structure and Paolo uses lighter fabrics on this character now – all those scarves and wrap dresses I love – with Quinn as she’s got darker so has her attire. Some of these shifts aren’t meant to be all that apparent and it can act on a subliminal level. With Olivia Pope we associate the color white with her wardrobe and as Paolo points out Olivia doesn’t wear all white all that often. Gray is her staple and the reason we remember the white is because these outfits tend to come at heightened moments like the amazing Burberry trench from the season 3 premiere.

The absence of costume is discussed and nude scenes take place on most of these shows; it hadn’t occurred to me before watching this panel that the costume designer would play a pivotal role in this process. This even includes being the one who tells an actor how much skin they are showing. On OITNB they have had to come up with inventive ways to solve their modesty cover issues as a lot of their nude scenes occur in the shower room and water/adhesive don’t work well together. They also have to think about clothes coming off during sex scenes so while on Scandal you might want that top to come off with ease, on Girls or Shameless the more awkward this undressing act the better.

It’s an incredibly insightful and fun conversation, to watch the whole thing (and I’d highly recommend it) head over to Vulture.

 

TV Costume Designers and Impacting Fashion

19 Sep

TV Ate My Wardrobe isn’t surprised to read that TV costume designers are having an impact on fashion at the moment, as The New York Times proposes in an article today. This site was born out of an interest and passion for costuming on TV and while other avenues are explored on a daily basis this is still at the heart of what we do here. Costuming can aid the storytelling process, but we also look at trends on the runway that filter through to stores. What is featured in magazine editorials can impact what we see on screen, but as we have seen with shows like Sex and the City and Mad Men they can have just as much influence on style as the fashion houses themselves.

Olivia Pope leather gloves

One aspect this article from The New York Times discusses comes from Pretty Little Liars costume designer Mandi Line as she explains that in her interview she stated “If you let me make fashion the fifth character on this show, people will watch it just for the clothes.” This is something that can probably be said about a show like Gossip Girl which I have recently realized that I miss purely for the clothes. The way costuming can appeal can be dependent on the target demographic and with something like Pretty Little Liars Instagram reveals how fans of the show compare their clothes to the ones they see on screen. Costuming can help create buzz and a show like Scandal has benefited from these types of discussions, especially now that star Kerry Washington is covering major fashion magazines and landing on every best dressed list. Lyn Paolo has done an excellent job not only with Olivia Pope’s wardrobe, but with each character’s clearly defined look. In the pilot episode of Scandal the notion that they are “Gladiators in suits” was repeated and now both Olivia’s team and fans of the show use this moniker.

NG_Neighbors-Sc9_0017 The time between when a TV show is made and when it airs is often relatively short and so this immediacy means that the clothes we see on screen are still often in stores. While you might not be able to afford the Prada purse that Olivia Pope uses, the J Crew sweater that Jess wears on New Girl could be a more affordable option. Websites such as What Would Zooey Deschanel Wear? and its broader ranging sister site Worn on TV not only find where to buy the clothes you see on screen, but also cheaper similar looking alternatives.

Elementary costume designer Rebecca Hofherr talks about how “TV deals with realistic issues and more realistic clothing” as opposed to film which might deal with more fantastical subjects. While I’m not a proponent of any TV vs. film debates I think TV can have a bigger impact on personal tastes because shows air on a weekly basis and so we see style evolution over a period of time. Characters become familiar to us and so as viewers it can be easier to identify with them and their look. There’s also a variety so one week I might see Joan Watson wear a scarf I really like and another will have me adding an April Ludgate shirt to my always growing wish list. You can sample many different looks across many different shows.

banana-republic-mad-men

This also covers period costuming and as I’ve mentioned Mad Men has influenced fashion in a major way and costume designer Janie Bryant has managed to create a brand thanks to her excellent work on Mad Men. Bryant has developed pieces with Maidenform (also a client of Sterling Cooper), Banana Republic and Brooks Brothers. There is also a reality show on the way from Janie Bryant that will give aspiring designers a chance to show off their skills by recreating classic Hollywood film costumes and celebrity signature styles.  Having just finished watching the Masters of Sex pilot I can confirm that there was a high amount of sweater and coat envy; as the colder season approaches I’m sure this will have some impact on forthcoming purchases even though it is set in the mid 1950s.

It’s not surprising to read that Good Wife designer Daniel Lawson is developing a line of clothes for professional women, or that Lyn Paolo is contemplating a book that will include Scandal related tips. Eric Daman whose previous credits include Sex and the City and Gossip Girl is now the costume designer for The Carrie Diaries and one of his non-TV related projects is a prom collection for Charlotte Russe. Girls and Orange is the New Black’s Jenn Rogien is currently one of Gap’s “Styled By” experts producing a series of style tutorials. For these costume designers they are diversifying their work and using their expertise on projects that relate to the TV work that we are familiar with. We have seen what these designers can do on screen so we know where their strengths lie and so there is already implied trust that they can produce excellent work outside of the TV show they design for.

A costume designer isn’t there to simply make the characters look good or to sell clothes; they help add another layer to the storytelling process and can inform the viewer to certain characteristics without a single word being said.

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