Tag Archives: costume design

Scandal 3.10 “A Door Marked Exit” Costume Review

13 Dec

Welcome to the last Scandal costume chat of 2013 and the season 3 midseason finale. As the Pope family secrets continue to unravel, Vice President Sally Langston encounters a problem of her own making (with a little hint of Cyrus and Mellie) and Fitz attempts to deal with Olivia’s father.

Scandal 3.10 shoes offThe frenetic editing of the opening sequence details the Sally and Daniel Douglas confrontation and we already know how this is going to end; the quick cuts of before, after and during the murder heighten the feelings of hysteria. It’s not premeditated and the impulsive reaction is emphasized by how it is shot. We see Sally wondering around in a daze blood-splattered and bare footed, we see the point she takes her heels off and loses the height and power she has been trying to exert over her husband (of course he is still about a foot taller than her even when she is in heels, but he’s lying on the floor dead at this point). It reminds of Mellie’s barefoot drunken Oval Office hangout and as someone who lasts about an hour in heels before I take them off, it makes sense to ditch them when something terrible has happened.

Scandal 3.10 OPABack to the office wear of OPA and it’s a veritable pattern fest; Abby has been wearing a lot of Diane Von Furstenberg this season and here is yet another amazing DVF wrap dress this time in snakeskin, the animal print is another repeated theme emphasizing Abby’s feisty nature. Olivia is becoming increasingly buttoned up in both clothing choices and as she tries to protect herself from the infinite hurt caused by her parents’ duplicity. This charcoal woven jacket is by Armani and like all the coats/jackets in Olivia’s closet it is exquisite. Harrison displays his standard dapper pattern clashing in checks and polka dots. Harrison and Abby are the two associates that I’d want on my team, as at least they’re not going to bring out the pliers and duct tape.

Scandal 3.10 woven jacketLater on when Jake comes to say goodbye, Olivia wears yet another beautiful textured jacket – a Dolce & Gabbana garment combining lace and tweed.

Scandal 3.10 Olivia greyIf you’re wondering where Olivia gets her coat taste from we can look no further than…

Scandal 3.10 MyaMaya! Who also happens to be back in Washington DC and making phone calls from outside Fitz’s house (I’m not even going to start figuring out the logistics of how she got back here) and doing so in a gorgeous belted coat that could have come from Olivia’s extensive collection. Those leather gloves help add to the dastardly, but super stylish appearance of Olivia’s mother.

Scandal 3.10 popcorn and wineOne thing Olivia is still doing is living off the snack her mom made her when she was sad and drinking copious amounts of red wine thanks to her father. So not only did Olivia’s parents abandon her when she was about to enter her teens, they also gave her some pretty bad eating and drinking habits. As always Olivia defies logic with the color and quality of her loungewear. Not a pair of sweat pants in sight.

Scandal 3.10 rowanOlivia’s father spends most of the episode hanging out with Fitz stripped of his coat and tie, which considering what Quinn didn’t get to wear during her interrogation with Huck last week he should consider himself very lucky. It’s all about attempting to strip him of some semblance of power, but for all the “I sleep with your daughter” digs that Fitz tries to drop, Eli is ten steps ahead of him with everything he says in his “You are just a boy” speech. It’s an incredible scene and it takes Olivia asking questions about her mother and the plane to make Eli look small in front of Fitz.

Scandal 3.10 Jake is commandFitz can’t usurp him face to face, instead he can twist Eli’s proclamation that B613 isn’t a person to gain power as he makes Jake the new Command and while it isn’t clear that this is within Fitz’s pay grade, it happens. Say goodbye to the hoodies and leather jackets as suited Jake is here and he looks good. Bonus points for the rugged stubble.

Scandal 3.10 Jake leather jacketHere is said leather jacket as Jake tells Olivia that he loved her, scratch that he loves her and yet he has bigger things to do. That’s not before he plants a smooch on her. Jake needs his own storyline and he finally became more than just the jealous guy as he reinforced the notion that Olivia’s father is still the bad guy to the people that he kept in a hole in the ground for months.

Scandal 3.10 Mellie in blueOver at the White House Mellie is dominating in a royal blue Michael Kors ensemble and you can tell Mellie has her groove back as her costumes have been primary color focused. Mellie is ecstatic about the Daniel Douglas news and even when Cyrus tells her what really happened she uses it as an opportunity.

scandal 3.10 Mellie in mourningThis is Mellie’s best mourning and caring face and the clickety-click inserts included this beautiful shot with Mellie’s game face on.

Scandal 3.10 Mellie in blackThe blue has been swapped out for the more appropriate black and she informs Sally that she knows the truth and uses this to gain some advantage. I still have a feeling that Sally will ultimately run as Leo has just as much control at this point.

Scandal 3.10 Cyrus underwearHe doesn’t have red horns but Cyrus equates his part in the death of Daniel Douglas as being like the devil. Mellie played a much more passive role in the whole affair which is why she can distance herself from the blame game; Cyrus is right in the middle of it as he pimped his own husband out. In yet another excellent turn by both Jeff Perry and Dan Bucatinsky that rivals the wiretap strip from last season Cyrus asks “I’m standing here afraid in my underwear and without a soul and I’m asking you what happens now?”

Scandal 3.10 James barbor jacketJames has the upper hand in all of this and his indignation is more than justified. Cyrus is hunched and his top is wrinkled, in contrast James is rocking the wax jacket scarf combo and Cyrus is at his mercy. James has tried to go to David Rosen, but after the election rigging debacle, David is reticent to help let alone believe this. A test from David’s substitute teaching job with penis drawings all over it is how David tells James he’s not interested.

Scandal 3.10 unhappy bedfellowsLast time Cyrus bought James a baby to get him to keep quiet, now it’s the Press Secretary job – that’s not going to arouse suspicion is it?! Add to the mix the evidence that has been given to David Rosen that implicates both Cyrus and Sally, and it’s going to get a lot more complicated for Cyrus, James and Sally. I’m glad David will have a storyline in the second half of the season that goes beyond helping Abby out.

Scandal returns Thursday, February 27 and we talk about the importance of the white hat conundrum in the TV Ate My Wardrobe Best of 2013 series here.

Best of TV Costuming 2013: Scandal and Olivia Pope’s White Hat

12 Dec

Continuing TV Ate My Wardrobe’s “Best of 2013″ costuming series and rather than doing a straightforward countdown we’re going to do a variety of posts that look at which costumes and shows have made a huge impact this year. From items that we want in our own wardrobe to pieces that got everyone talking, we want to look at this year’s TV through the prism of costume.

It would be impossible to talk about shows that dominated 2013 without talking about Scandal and I marathoned the first two seasons over the summer. This is a decision I am very happy with as not only is the storytelling at the speed of a juggernaut, but it also features some of the most exquisite costume design work courtesy of Lyn Paolo.

KERRY WASHINGTON

Olivia’s wardrobe is a plethora of neutral tones and the white attire of her collection is when she is at her most defiant. ‘Wearing the white hat’ is one of Olivia’s core ideals and it’s a notion that she uses to justify her less than legit methods (election fixing anyone?) and in the season 2 finale “White Hat’s Back On” Olivia received a real white hat from David Rosen. The symbolism is explicit as David is who Olivia tends to have these ethical debates with (this has sadly been lacking in season 3 so far) and the box also contained evidence to implicate Billy Chambers. David at this point is probably the one character who could be described as morally good in this very murky world, he hasn’t murdered anyone (yet) and he still has a strong moral compass; at this point the white hat belongs to him.

While my own relationship with white clothes is rather fraught (I am a perpetual spiller), Olivia has the poise to drink red wine in her luxurious lounge wear and not spill a drop. It’s more impressive when you factor in the occasion when she got super sloshed and drunk dialed her terrifying father. White is Olivia’s armor and this was no more apparent than in the season premiere when she wore this incredible Burberry trench – I’m still riding the high of predicting this piece would feature in season 3.

Scandal 3.1 Olivia Burberry TrenchWhite is a color that suggests purity and while we know Olivia steps way into the moral grey areas, it’s still the image she wants to project to the world. By putting on the white hat both literally and figuratively it acts as justification of those nefarious methods. This season has focused on B613 and Olivia’s parents; hopefully tonight’s mid-season finale will put some of those stories to rest as I miss how Scandal previously balanced the long term arc with the procedural elements. Shows need to evolve, they also need to not get bogged down in shadowy puppet master storylines (see previous offenders Buffy the Vampire SlayerRevenge24Alias).

It’s a show that isn’t afraid to head down some very dark roads (wrist munching/face licking) and while I don’t necessarily agree that these parts are necessary, showrunner Shonda Rhimes justifies these moments to Vulture stating “For me, it’s a reminder that as much as we all love these people, they’re all still monsters. They’re all still monsters walking around in human skin.” Is Rhimes including Olivia in this grouping? If so these monsters also wear some fabulous Prada, Burberry and Armani.

Scandal has become one of the most discussed shows here at TV Ate My Wardrobe and the costuming is a huge part of that. Abby’s Diane von Furstenberg infused wardrobe upgrade would feature highly on our wish list and every coat that Olivia wears is perfection. What these characters wear informs the story as well as my own shopping fantasies and it is a vital part of the big Scandal success story of 2013.

Scandal 3.09 “YOLO” Costume Review: Power, Protection and Manipulation

6 Dec

In what has become a standard Scandal tradition, that last moments of this episode had me yelling “WHAAAAAAAT?” at the screen. The torture opening sequence elicited the same response and even though the promo had prepared me for Huck’s lick of crazy, it was still pretty disturbing; most of the Quinn scenes were coated in a sheet of ick. This is more than I can say for Quinn who only had an outfit made out of duct tape and while Lady Gaga could maybe make this work it felt like a step too far to have Quinn sans clothes as part of this torture; would Huck really do that?

It’s an episode that featured very few costume changes by Scandal standards, but we’ve still got plenty to talk about as a lot of the characters use clothes as a form of protection (except Quinn who can’t). Olivia wraps herself up in another big, beautiful coat, Jake pulls out his uniform and James mimics the color that Cyrus picked out for him when he set him up with Daniel Douglas.

Scandal 3.09 Mama PopeThe team get all caught up on the no longer Dead Mama Pope situation and as you can see white items of clothing run in the Pope family. Ok not really as this is Maya’s hospital attire, but Maya is wearing a white top/black skirt combo in the flashback sequence that is reminiscent of Olivia’s present clothing choices.

Scandal 3.09 breakfast bondingIn what you could call a strained breakfast catch up – and none of that food really looked like breakfast, not a waffle in sight – Olivia is surprised to hear that her mother thinks she doesn’t have much laughter in her life. For someone who has been locked away in a cell for 20 years she’s pretty perceptive. Maya has been given a wardrobe change and like her daughter it’s all neutral tones. Only one of the Pope women has a Prada purse.

Scandal 3.09 draped coatOlivia spends the episode in this double grey ensemble and the draped coat is reminiscent of the Donna Karan one that got blown up earlier this season. Like all of Olivia’s outerwear it’s beautiful and the oversized trend is coming in useful this season. It also gives Olivia something to wrap around herself and we’ve seen her do this in the past as a form of protection. Grey is also the perfect color to show the insanely messed up situation that Olivia has found herself in this season. Election rigging has got nothing on this.

Scandal 3.09 hugMaya gets her own camel coat of glory and a hug from her daughter after Abby pretty much forces Olivia to reach out in a physical way. The hug from Abby a few weeks ago was part of the emotional preparedness training. This also prompts another piece of the flashback puzzle for Olivia and like everyone else who has seen Alias I am getting every single “Spy Daddy is always good” related feeling. So Maya is actually Marie Wallace and Eli was just protecting his daughter and now his life is in the hands of Quinn?! Well that’s a whole lot of uh-oh going on. This show likes to create six twists for every one so I’m not going to put all my eggs in the “Eli is good” basket; however his comment about not enjoying killing at the start of the episode is pointing towards some white hat intentions.

Scandal 3.09 palazzo pantsHarrison thinks that Olivia is “handling it” and I don’t know who is in more denial as I’m pretty sure she’s a mess, even if she can cover it up most of the time. Abby spends most of the episode sassing people which I’m fine with because some straight talking is required and her palazzo pants are magnificent in the shot above. Abby also gets to be the connection to David Rosen and this is pretty flimsy in the attempt to use him with their get Maya out of the country plan, the dude needs his owns storyline. Speaking of guys who need their own story a mystery unnamed associate of Harrison’s, helps with some documents and lets him know the dreaded Adnan Salif is back. She also refers to him as H and doesn’t care to introduce herself to Abby.

Scandal 3.09 quickest walk and talkIn what might be the fastest walk and talk I’ve ever seen on TV making everyone on The West Wing look like they’re taking a pleasant stroll (which they are in comparison) Cyrus and Mellie discuss all things operation Daniel Douglas. Well not all things as Cyrus is trying to keep James’ infidelity out of it all. The infidelity that he set up and believed would never happen as he snarked to Mellie that his marriage is nothing like hers. Mellie is wears her political power color (complete with pearls) of red throughout the episode and instead of playing the “I told you so” card she offers the limited amount of comfort that she has to offer – that “it hurts and then it doesn’t.” She doesn’t go so far as offer him a hug, but this really isn’t a hugging kind of show unless someone is coerced.

Scandal 3.09 JamesJames wears a similar plum shade to the one he wore in his intimate interview with Daniel Douglas. James spends the first half of the episode passive aggressively taunting Cyrus using phrases like “got him to go deep” and “quick and dirty.” Cyrus eventually cracks and tries to blame James for going through with it. Cyrus doesn’t have an ethical leg to stand on (does he ever?) and James spells it out loud and clear what he wants to happen.

Scandal 3.09 loud and clearIt’s certainly not a cryptic message and so Cyrus puts the photos of James and Daniel into play. Well he only shows them to Sally and she doesn’t blink an eyelid, that is until she gets home and murders her husband. Everyone in political power on this show seems to have a killer instinct. Cyrus asks James for forgiveness, could this honey-trap scheme be a manipulation too far for James? The whole murder aspect isn’t going to help either.

Scandal 3.09 posturingIn another posturing match Jake pulled out the big guns by switching out his hoodie for his military uniform, which he must keep in his car as surely his apartment is being watched. Regardless it’s a clothing choice to try and assert some power with Fitz and also emphasize why he is so pissed off with the current situation. Jake might have had time to change clothes, however he’s rocking some light stubble. There’s no time for shaving. I’ve been writing about Felicity a lot recently for This Was TV and this is the first time I’ve had Scott Foley character whiplash; it might be down to the hilarious goatee that Noel was growing in one of the recent Felicity episodes I have discussed. The stubble looks a lot better on Foley here.

Next week is the mid season finale! Expect a whole lot of plot crazy and probably more coats to add to my covet list.

Out of the Box: Look of the Week

29 Nov

Costumes and red carpet appearances all feature on this week’s edition of “Out of the Box” and include 19th century dueling attire, pajamas, sweaters and houndstooth. I did want to talk about something from the Boardwalk Empire season finale, but as this blog doesn’t have page breaks there’s no way to conceal this very spoilery image (click on the link to see the shot). Suffice to say it is a stunningly executed scene and one that makes my heart ache.

Elijah The OriginalsFlashback time on The Originals and Elijah’s hunter green dueling costume complete with tailcoat, pantaloons, cravat and leather knee high boots is an impressive look. There’s not a bad wig in sight (Klaus also looks rather dashing in his waistcoat), something the flashback scenes occasionally suffer from. The Originals has impressed me so far this season as we learn more about the perceived cycle of betrayal that Klaus thinks he is experiencing as he continues his constant quest for loyalty – he had it from his siblings, but he’s treated them in such a way that they can no longer stand by him. This is A+ costuming work from Jennifer Bryan.

NG_310-2_0011Moving on to the present and another superb pajama set from Jess on New Girl. These ones are custom made and you can get the bicycle pictured material here if you fancy making your own (thanks Worn on TV for the heads up). Jess’ pajama collection is pretty immense and while most of the sets tend to come from Victoria’s Secret (unlike the models Jess tends to button hers up), having a few that are one of a kind injects originality into the mix.

Gina Brooklyn Nine Nine ThanksgivingIt’s been a big week for sweaters here at TV Ate My Wardrobe and Gina from Brooklyn Nine-Nine has already featured on the wish list for a sweater she wore earlier this season. Wearing a Marc by Marc Jacobs sweater on this week’s Thanksgiving themed episode, Gina takes a place on the “Out of the Box” list as this jungle green (yeah it looks blue to me) patterned piece is a delight. As is the high horse that Gina is riding out on in this scene. The ‘Luna’ sweater is currently at sale price here.

lizzy-caplan-at-golden-globe-awards-season-celebration-in-hollywood-1My current hankering for all the toothed patterned clothing – puppy, dog and hound – means that Lizzy Caplan’s double houndstooth print by Reem Acra is a sight to behold. The gold waistband helps to break up the contrasting, yet similar prints and this is brilliantly bold look. Caplan’s is a TV Ate My Wardrobe favorite and she is willing to mix things up on the red carpet and step out of the safe zone, it doesn’t always work but on this occasion it is terrific and we applaud her for it. Plus she has been a complete charmer on Masters of Sex this season.

Masters of Sex 1.09 “Involuntary” Costume Review: Drawing the Line

25 Nov

What is passion and what is simply biology? The study on Masters of Sex continues to progress and “Involuntary” explores a variety of internal and external feelings and factors. It’s an episode that finds several of the characters reaching an impasse and the time for simple compromise is no more. There is also an overarching theme of evaluations and not everyone scores highly, particularly in the perception section. The return of Bill’s mother Essie manages to dredge up some home truths and Libby has her own secret that she is afraid to share.

Masters of Sex 1.09 Jane's concernsJane has provided much of the heart of Masters of Sex and she tends to be the ray of light in both costume color and general attitude. Early in the episode Jane is wearing a less than sunny beige and she is trying to be everything she can so she gets a high score on her evaluation. Bill is still pretty oblivious to how vital Jane has been and it’s Virginia that knows her true value, not just as a secretary but also as a key participant in the study. Virginia has a way of phrasing things so that it makes Jane feel more comfortable with what she will be undertaking and on this occasion another filming session is required. Jane has a list of concerns as it’s her external bodily reactions that are in focus and understandably she doesn’t want anyone recognizing her.

Masters of Sex 1.09 Jane in pale yellowJane’s signature color returns later in the episode and this dinner sequence includes a lot of Jane’s no nonsense straight talking. Jane responds with “Generally I masturbate” when Essie asks what she does and she’s not shy about discussing her role in the study. Jane does have concerns about who will see the film footage even with the contract and caveats she insisted upon.

Masters of Sex 1.09 drawing the lineJane, once again in yellow (though this time of the darker mustard variety) is incredibly uncomfortable with watching herself on screen. Despite the notion that like Virginia, Jane is ahead of ‘her time’ in terms of how comfortable she is with her sexuality there is this outward/inward factor that is holding her back. It’s perfectly understandable and Virginia complies with her wish to destroy the footage and Jane explains that up until now it has all been about internal feelings and this is very much an external expression. Jane has done a lot for the study and she’s drawing the line of what she is willing to do here.

Masters of Sex 1.09 baby showerJane and Virginia are similar in a lot of ways and some of this extends to how much we know about their inner lives; Jane is a supporting character and so it’s not vital that we know everything about her just yet, with Virginia it feels like we are still only scratching the surface and this is more problematic. In the scene above we get to see what the social dynamic is like now for Virginia at the hospital as there is a baby shower for one of the secretaries in the cafeteria that she knew nothing about it. It’s awkward and Jane tries to include her, but as Virginia is no longer part of this group there is no seat at this table.

Master of Sex 1.09 lunch with Dr. DePaulInstead Virginia makes her own excuses to save face and opts to lunch by herself. Up to this point Dr. DePaul has been hostile toward Virginia, but thanks to some good grades in her class it looks like Lillian is warming to her. Lillian talks cafeteria group dynamics and how she had no table to sit at – imagine your own 1950s Mean Girls/Clueless/10 Things I Hate About You like explanation of who all the cliques are. Lillian offers some words of wisdom that Virginia will recite later “The work is what endures.” Virginia’s white and grey ensemble is very much in tune with Lillian’s wardrobe color palette; Virginia’s tailoring is more modern and less severe in style and the bow mimics the other secretaries. In a way she is caught between several different roles and not fitting in with any of them.

Masters of Sex 1.09 study sessionThis black jacket/dress combo is similar to everything that Virginia has been wearing this season and the neck bow detail is common to female collars from this period. It also adds a splash of color (albeit dark color) and she stands out in the white coats/shirts/ties of her fellow students. Virginia has different priorities than the other students in her class and they’re confused as to why Virginia is even doing this and how she gets such good grades. They assume that the latter is thanks to some sisterhood solidarity and she explains to these bozos that this is far from the case – it’s another reason why Lillian has been so cold to Virginia, so people are incorrect in this helping with grades assumptions. The group which should have been about helping each other ends up heading down a one way street as they just want to borrow Virginia’s notes.

masters of Sex 1.09 paymentAh the envelope stuffed full of money is always a good idea, right? Virginia thinks that Bill must be making some kind of joke, but alas Bill’s gesture is a real one. Bill thinks that Virginia should be adequately compensated for her work and when she asks whether he is paying himself he gets the answer wrong by saying no as it is his study. Virginia believed this to be a 50/50 thing since she got her promotion and became a participant along with Bill; instead there is still an issue of power. Bill is struggling after Libby’s reveal and the many stressful conversations with his mother so this move feels like a knee jerk response to these external factors. Virginia, like Jane doesn’t take the money and even though this is for science there is still a seedy association when it comes to taking money for sex. In non-story news this grey double breasted coat is on my ever growing covet list.

Masters of Sex 1.09 power clashingMasters of Sex spends a lot of time observing other people and the whole idea of the study is to explore things that have never been scientifically recorded before. This means a lot of observation time and even though you can give a fancy scientific name for those fuzzy feelings, there are things that can’t be measured by science. While they might be able debunk the idea of passion as involuntary bodily reactions can be explained through scientific theory, there are still things that can’t be measured thanks to human emotions. Bill knows that he’s made a mistake trying to give the money to Virginia and by not completing her evaluation – he mentions that he failed the ‘do no harm’ mandate. The evaluation he has half-written starts off as dry as you might expect but then notes how vital she is to both him and the study. We hear her version of this evaluation as Bill is mesmerized by the footage of Virginia, in it she mentions that her passion is both an asset and a weakness and how she needs to not be so attached in the future. There is a constant push/pull with this pair as outward circumstances change and it wouldn’t surprise me if she tries to pull herself back emotionally as Bill tries to open himself up as we enter the last third of this first season.

Bill is impeccably dressed and his power clashing is nothing of the Harrison from Scandal variety, he is still rocking three different patterns between his shirt, bow tie and jacket (check, polka dot, tweed).

Masters of Sex 1.09 EssieOne of the external factors that is causing Bill stress this week is his mother and he still isn’t really on speaking terms with her. Bill thinks by revealing what he is actually researching at the moment it will get her out of his hair and it’s quite the opposite as Essie refuses to be shocked by this. Essie’s crime is not protecting Bill from his violent father and her general denial demeanor. Unlike anything else she tackles this problem with her son head on and this includes showing up with a hamper full of food at work. The “E” pin on her coat is very much like Jane’s “J” from earlier this season and the flashes of fur and matching red accessories show that Essie is a woman of means.

Essie decides that the time to stand up and say something is now and tells Bill about his father’s affair with his secretary. This is her not so subtle way of telling him to stop screwing around; in fact she comes right out and says this regardless. Is it too late for her to be laying down the law like this?

Masters of Sex 1.09 dead birdLibby hasn’t told Bill that she is pregnant because she knows he will figure out what she has done. Instead she sees meaning in everything including the bird that killed itself by flying into her window. She sees it as a terrible omen and she doesn’t want to say the word pregnant out loud in case she jinxes the whole thing. This is rare Libby wearing pants moment and all of her clothes throughout this episode are devoid of any strong colors. Libby isn’t one for bright attire but there is something a lot more somber about these neutral items that she is wearing this week; it’s as if she doesn’t want to show anything off.

Masters of Sex 1.09  baby newsThe big moment of truth with the pregnancy reveal has about 10 elephants in the room as Libby talks about her barren condition while hinting that she knows that it is Bill with the infertility issues. Libby gives a bold impassioned speech about the state of things at work vs. at home “This is life. This is love. Without is you’re just a man lost in space calling out hoping to hear something back.”

Gravity masters of sexThe late ’50s is all about space imagery and this was used earlier in the season, this is a shot from Henry’s comic book and the idea of Bill as an explorer of new frontiers like space is a comparison I think we will hear again.

Bill is in his very own version of Gravity

Masters of sex 1.09 routineLibby wants him understand that his study is cold and clinical; “there’s no humanity in it.” At home she believes that a family is like an echo and they settle back into a routine by the end of the episode. The problem is of course is that this family is the thing that is devoid of humanity and the study is full of life for Bill. The tableau above shows familiarity and little else.

Masters of Sex 1.09 Vivian in pinkMeanwhile, Vivian is trying to create her own perfect relationship scenario and she has a new mission when stumbles upon the information that Ethan’s parents are Jewish – this conversation starts because she didn’t know that foreskin is a thing that exists, another reason why people need to be better educated about sex. Vivian insists that Ethan pick a religion as she really wants a church wedding and like everything that Vivian does she’s very enthusiastic about the whole thing. Vivian is dressed in her super girly bubblegum and pastel pink throughout the episode (all except for the final scene in which she gets dumped).

Masters of Sex 1.09 Vivian and EthanMore pink and Ethan has a moment that gives him clarity, thanks in a very roundabout way to religion. A discussion leads to him realizing that his whole life has been about floating along, including this relationship. The thing he really wants and has tried to fight for is unobtainable. Yeah he’s talking about Virginia.

Masters of Sex 1.09 engagement breakupIn a baby blue version of all of her pink clothes Vivian finds out that not only is Ethan quitting bacon, but he also wants to quit their engagement too. Vivian takes this as best as expected and if I was Ethan I’d be concerned that not only is his immediate boss probably pissed (for helping get Libby pregnant) but so will the Provost as he’s not going to be thrilled that his daughter has been dumped. This is the first time that Ethan is really making his own decision and it’s one that Vivian should be thankful for as this whole relationship was about convenience.

Out of the Box: Look of the Week

22 Nov

It’s all about the color red on this edition of “Out of the Box” as both costuming on TV shows and public appearances have been hit by scarlet fever and as December is fast approaching (shh we have started our gift buying yet) we thought it was time to get into the festive spirit. Not that any of these outfits are celebrating the holidays, instead we have the uniform of the enemy, more coat envy, the launch of a new Banana Republic line and a bold red carpet statement.

Hessian Mask Sleepy HollowFirst up it’s those pesky Hessian riders on Sleepy Hollow and their uniform is made all the more menacing by their black masks (no there isn’t an Eyes Wide Shut party around the corner). The masks have a slight beaked quality and while they’re not as severe as the plague doctor masks it’s an incredibly unnerving look. In this week’s Sleepy Hollow we found out the original identity of the Headless Horseman; he’s Ichabod’s former BFF Abraham. Abraham was engaged to Katrina and well we all know who she ended up marrying. This development was unexpected and Abraham’s transformation involved not only offering up his soul but shedding everything about his appearance. Red is seldom used as a clothing choice outside of these flashbacks with Abbie and Ichabod sticking to blues, greys and blacks. This makes it instantly identifiable with being the color of the enemy.

Mindy red coatI’ve already discussed Jess’ red coat from this week’s New Girl and Mindy’s Smythe red floral brocade affair is yet another excellent outerwear offering. Mindy’s wardrobe is full of bright and bold pieces like this and costume designer Salvador Perez often puts Mindy in a variety of colors and textures. This ensemble includes two different monochromatic patterns (hearts and houndstooth) that shouldn’t go together with this crimson coat, but do. The red helps Mindy stand out in the sea of darker coat colors.

Jessica Pare Christina HendricksChristina Hendricks and Jessica Paré both shine in red tones at the launch party celebrating the new L’Wren Scott Collection for Banana Republic. While I would have preferred to see them without the draped sparkly cardigans and together they look super matchy-matchy, I do like the ruffled blouse with the fitted skirts (especially Paré’s combination).

alan Cumming red suitNow here’s how you wear a red suit and matching shoes, while we wouldn’t recommend this look for everyone, it suits Alan Cumming’s daring style. It’s a big contrast to the grey suit stylings of Eli Gold on The Good Wife and Cumming likes to have fun with fashion when he hits the red carpet. It’s a really well tailored suit and it fits him perfectly.

Masters of Sex 1.08 Review: Do You See What I See?

18 Nov

So much about Masters of Sex is discussing what can’t be said in the public sphere; including the research that Bill and Virginia are conducting and many other personal matters. “Love and Marriage” explores the idea of perception as we delve further into the why of these characters and the relationships they have. Perceptions can be formed from a whole host of things including social status, race, gender and sexuality and these are all covered in this episode.

One of the reasons I find costuming such a fascinating topic to write about comes from the amount of information that can be derived from what a character wears and how this can influence both those around them and the audience. When it comes to the study there is no costuming (aside from the blue bathrobes) and all they are looking at is the data, but with everything else opinions can and are formed.

Masters of Sex 1.08 VirginiaVirginia sticks to the dark colors that we have seen her in throughout the series so far and aside from two different bathrobes (at home and at work) and her lab coat in class, it’s all greys and darker tones this week. Virginia is trying to be taken seriously by Dr. Lillian DePaul and Dr. DePaul is pretty hard on Virginia with her passive aggressive comments about her capability. Experience dictates reaction and Dr. DePaul has faced opposition to get where she is. This doesn’t mean that Virginia has had it easy, far from it but they’ve taken very different paths to get to this place. You could chime in with female solidarity, but for Dr. DePaul she has had to leave her gender at the door to get this far and she doesn’t want Virginia to have it easy either. It doesn’t help that Virginia asks for her work with Dr. Masters to count as partial credit as Dr. DePaul reads this as Virginia asking for an easy grade.

Masters of Sex 1.08 Dr DePaulThere is a severity to Dr. DePaul that is evident in the way she dresses and her costuming lacks any color, nor is it tailored to show off any kind of femininity. This reveals how little she wants to or can rely on her gender even though she specializes in female related medicine. Dr. DePaul is keeping her own secret and her research is a personal issues because she has Stage VI cancer; ultimately she has become her research in the same way that Bill and Virginia have become theirs – with very different outcomes of course. It makes the boredom that everyone is exhibiting at her presentation all the more painful and it shows why she has such a tight deadline for completing the work.

Masters of Sex 1.08 shoes offWhile I don’t see Lillian and Virginia becoming BFFs anytime soon, there is a new found respect garnered in this episode as Virginia aces the test and scores 100%. Virginia also shows that she has a backbone by calling Dr. DePaul out on her shit. The moment above where DePaul silently moves Virginia’s heels under her chair could have turned into a spectacle of pointing out Virginia’s flaws (as she did with her punctuality), instead she lets it slide.

Masters of Sex 1.08 virginia in greyWhenever Virginia wears grey it makes me think of Dr. DePaul and while this neckline and style is not something Dr. DePaul would wear it’s also signifies serious work attire.

Masters of Sex Virginia with the kids studyingIn an entirely different look Virginia gets her kids to help her study for the big test and they ask her why she wants a degree? Virginia answers in a fanciful way that makes perfect sense because they’re kids and she invokes the idea of magic; “You still do your job, but when you have a degree people believe you know what you’re talking about.” Tessa’s response is pretty darling and totally spot on for how Virginia hopes it will improve perceptions of her “So people see you right from the start.” This is why going from secretary to researcher is so important because even though labels shouldn’t matter, they definitely do. It’s also really great to see Virginia’s career having a positive influence on her kids for once rather than being something that has her questioning her skills as a mother, especially when Henry beams when she gets an answer right. Education is empowering and it’s a shame that Bill is trying to sabotage Virginia’s efforts.

Masters of Sex 1.08 MargaretWife is another label of course and for Margaret her role as wife has been about companionship, this is no longer enough for her. Margaret has experienced a sexual awakening and even though it’s over with Austin, she can’t go back to her routine with Barton. The outfit that she is wearing in the bar after her Austin breakup is decadent and is not what she would wear to go visit her aunt, Barton knows that she was going to be sleeping with someone else and their confrontation in the bathroom makes him openly weep. Both Allison Janney and Beau Bridges are terrific in these scenes as they try and come to terms with how external factors are altering what seemed to be a strong relationship – though a relationship built on a foundation of lies is always going to have its weak points.

Masters of Sex 1.08 Margaret and DaleThis disconnect between Margaret and Barton is made even more awkward with the presence of Dale and Margaret can tell straight away that Dale is not a grad student – is it his clothes? How he talks? One thing Margaret hasn’t perceived yet as far as I can tell is that Barton is gay; all the clues are there including his insistence last week that he hasn’t slept with another woman, his disinterest in Margaret’s body when she is standing in front of him naked and this meeting with Dale. Instead she buys his story that Dale is his pimp for lady prostitutes. Barton doesn’t want his marriage to be over and he wants a solution to what he calls “this terrible habit” and he seeks out Masters’ help. It’s pretty painful to watch someone contemplating aversion therapy like this – and sadly Masters and Johnson did at one stage claim that homosexuality was curable – and it shows the desperation to avoid admitting to being a gay man in the late 1950s.

Masters of Sex 1.08 Vivian singingOne Scully is having a better time in her relationship and rather than putting Ethan off with her morning routine of “Love and Marriage” (which is now stuck in my head, thanks show), Ethan has taken the next step with Vivian and purchased an engagement ring. Vivian looks like a girl playing make believe housewife as she prepares breakfast singing and so it’s surprising that Ethan takes this as his cue to ask the big question. As Ethan views the whole routine through a mirror it’s as if he’s watching a movie and not real life. Austin can’t understand why Ethan would do this to himself if he hasn’t got Vivian pregnant and Ethan thinks that a wife is the way to get ahead, he mentions that out of all of the presidents only one was a bachelor and no one remembers him – Austin does and it was James Buchanan. Austin has a pretty terrible attitude towards his wife now and thinks a vacuum cleaner that hovers can makes up for his dalliances, but he sure knows how to spin a story to get another woman into bed.

Masters of Sex 1.08 propsalThere are so many traditions when it comes to a proposal and Ethan is clueless about every single one, this includes how much you should spend on the ring (two months’ salary) and from Vivian’s perspective what kind of dress she should wear (tea length or floor length) and whether she should get a manicure as Ethan is taking her to a restaurant nicknamed ‘the hitching post.’ The proposal happens early, or rather it’s a non-proposal as Ethan doesn’t even answer the question and Vivian still says yes. There’s no getting down on one knee or grand gesture that he will be able to recount in years to come, instead a whole host of questions and a face of instant regret.

Masters of Sex 1.08 Libby in yellowThere’s an episode of Mad Men where Betty is nervous about inviting a salesman in while Don is out that makes me assume that inviting someone in while your husband is not at home wasn’t really the done thing – it’s only one example and of course Bill Masters is no Don Draper – but it still occurred to me during this Libby storyline and I’m not entirely sure what they are trying to say with this plot. Libby takes some dance advice off Walter (Libby has called him to fix her gutters but from her initial reaction she was surprised that he is black) and it feels like there is chemistry between the pair; is this because they have both lost someone or is it something more? Walter is also the one who takes Libby to the hospital after she faints and the doctor wrongly assumes that he is “her boy.” I’m interested to see if this develops any further and if they will be making any other nods to issues of race or whether it is just a way to introduce another Libby pregnancy story outside of the regular hospital she visits. Another assumption is that Walter took her to the nearest place but it could also have been a purposeful decision to avoid Bill’s workplace.

Masters of Sex 1.08 Beav St. MarieLike Libby, Jane is in yellow (and by now you know that this is the Jane standard). Jane was the first person to sign up for the study and once again thanks to a little coaxing from Virginia she agrees to be the first to try out the internal vagina camera. It feels like Virginia is subtly manipulation Jane which makes me a tad uneasy, but Jane does seem fine with it when she stops associating the film aspect with dirty movies and thinks of it like a hand model for science. Plus Jane comes up with the hilarious stage name Beav St. Marie. Valerie also gets in on the jokes as she tells Lester (the very nervous camera operator) that “vaginas don’t bite,” unless you’ve seen the movie Teeth of course.

Masters of Sex 1.08 More Jane in yellowAnother day, another yellow outfit for Jane and she’s pretty comfortable in the environment of Bill’s office. This could be thanks to Virginia’s helpful tips including no stray paperclips ever and no mayo on Bill’s sandwiches (like Bill I’d also prefer it if there was a law against mayonnaise). Jane is responding to Austin in this moment and Austin wants back on the study and he no longer only wants Jane as a partner.

Masters of Sex 1.08 camera missionThere’s something a little X-Files like about this scene as Masters goes on a secret mission to get a camera that will record their research.

Masters of Sex 1.08 Masters is smilingThe episode ends with Bill and Virginia in their blue robes watching the footage. There’s intimacy and not just because they are having sex, but because they are discovering these things together. This is the happiest we have ever seen Bill and his arousal isn’t because of what is on screen but because they are the first people that have seen this in the world. Something that was previously undocumented has been recorded and this result is everything that this study is about. Now if only some of the characters had the ability to show themselves to the world for the first time.

The Good Wife and a Tale of Two Suits

12 Nov

The Good Wife made a bold move at the end of last season as Alicia decided to start her own law firm with Cary. Instead of opting for a time jump a la Mad Men the tension has dramatically increased as we watch the tumultuous process play out. The Good Wife doesn’t have a habit of disappointing (I’m pretending Kalinda’s ex didn’t happen) but this storyline has taken the show to new heights and it has been one of the most compelling shows of the year.

Last week Anne Helen Petersen wrote an excellent piece about the evolving costumes on The Good Wife and what meanings can be derived from the uniforms these characters wear. One of Petersen’s comments that really helps emphasize why I find costuming so fascinating is because “Wardrobe matters because wardrobe communicates.” This leads me to two of the trips that Alicia makes to Lockhart/Gardner in the most recent episode “The Next Week.” It’s the first time Alicia has been back to her old firm since she was escorted from the building by security and her outfit upon her return makes a statement.

Alicia Escada Tuxedo JacketThis is not the face of someone who regrets her decision, even if Florrick, Agos & Associates have hit a number of speed bumps in their first week as a firm – the time frame of the last 4 episodes has covered just over a week in their time. Alicia is not attempting to blend in or wallflower this situation in this midnight blue (it reads black on the screen but costume designer Daniel Lawson refers to it as blue) Escada tuxedo blazer that stands out thanks to the contrasting white panels that sit under the lapels.

Alicia The Good WifeWhen Diane stalked the corridors of L/G a few weeks ago when she was having her own dispute with Will (which has now been resolved) she did so pretty uninterrupted. Diane was also dressed in a dark color and at the time I remarked there was something predatory about those scenes. Alicia represents a different kind of danger and the reaction of the L/G employees is to not enter her sphere as if she has some kind of plague. This is probably thanks to Will’s “destroy the competition” mantra and no one wants to be seen anywhere near Alicia. I’ve been writing about Scandal a lot recently and so the light and dark contrasting elements on the blazer combined with the white cowl neck blouse is giving me all kinds of Olivia Pope associations. Like Olivia, Alicia might have a confident demeanor, but there is still much conflict at play.

Alicia and the opposite sidesIt’s not going to be easy to get a rise out of Alicia as she sits on the opposite side because at this point she has leverage over them. Diane might be wearing the bold red that is generally associated with Alicia – Diane has previously worn this color but there are strong associations that tie Alicia with red clothing – but in this scene Alicia has the upper hand. Diane asks if Alicia has always been like this giving Alicia the opportunity to flip it around as she “had some of the best teachers in the world. I couldn’t help but change.”

Alicia grey pant suitThere is one notable person missing from the first meeting and that’s Will. When returning to L/G for a third time Alicia’s costuming makes her look less self-assured. Alicia is back in grey and while this Ferragamo pantsuit is more tailored that her season 1 outfits, it still harks back to a time when Alicia’s confidence wasn’t particularly high. In the scene captured in the photo above Will and Alicia share a moment; neither speaks a word but the penetrating stare between them could fill volumes with betrayal and heartbreak. Last week saw Will enjoying this personal sparring match with Alicia, this time they are both caught off guard and because they are back at the scene of the crime it feels incredibly fraught all over again.

Alicia Florrick and a different kind of exitLater Alicia is blindsided by the actions of Anthony, who with endless moaning about bonuses and terribly executed schemes has always been the weakest link in the FA&A chain. Alicia’s expression here as she exits Lockhart/Gardner is the polar opposite of how she entered these offices at the start of the episode and I’m impressed that she doesn’t tell David Lee to go fuck himself (in a network approved manner of course).

Returning to Anne Helen Petersen’s piece and this all important observation “Yet as Alicia rose through the ranks in the firm, had a steamy affair with her boss/old flame, and laid down the law with her husband, her suits got wild, and by wild, I mean they got peplumed.” The first suit in question doesn’t feature a peplum, but the details are just as bold and demonstrates through costuming the change that Alicia informs Diane was inevitable. Grey isn’t necessarily a color that denotes weakness in Alicia, but there is a shift in her confidence in the latter half of this episode that is reflected in what she is wearing. The case is going against her and FA&A face another setback thanks to Anthony’s deception; it’s not all doom and gloom as they’ve gained Clarke so it’s time to bring out the bold suits and continue to fight this fight.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Review: How to Save a Life

11 Nov

Don’t worry this isn’t going to turn into a Fray sing-along (though I am sorry if it’s now stuck in your head, as it is in mine) but there is a lot of talk in this week’s Masters of Sex revolving around the idea of saving someone’s life and they all occur in secret. While certain storylines are bubbling to the surface, there is still much that is not being outwardly discussed. The same could be said for both the study and Virginia and Bill’s relationship; both are progressing and barriers are being broken but there are still lines that are constantly being redefined.

Masters of Sex 1.07 bow tie undoneOne huge development is that Bill and Virginia are now participating in the study with each other and the opening scene showed just how awkward this can be when it is pure science and no passion. Bill is still pretty clueless when it comes to the non-medical aspects of sex and when a couple he is treating mentions the Karma Sutra his world is blown wide open. Things do get better for Bill and Virginia as the episode progresses and there is a relaxed atmosphere in the scene above as Bill lets his bow tie hang loose; he’s becoming slightly less buttoned up.

There’s no need for either of them to wear their white coats now – in the first post sex scene they were both wearing them but now things have progressed beyond that. The dress Virginia is wearing is nothing out of the ordinary for her, but this episode does see the return of both burgundy and red to the wardrobe color palette that was mostly lacking last week. Bill offers to zip up her dress, but Virginia insists that she has got it, maybe to reduce the intimacy of this moment they just shared.

Masters of Sex 1.07 bathrobesThese are the blue robes we are familiar with, but this is the first time we have seen either Bill or Virginia in one and there is something vulnerable about this almost naked state. The build up to this scene has Bill and Virginia answering their questionnaires intercut with them getting undressed separately in a very practical manner, there’s no tearing off clothes here. Their answers are of course very different; Virginia lost her virginity at 15, Bill at 20. Virginia slept with both of her husband’s before they were married, Bill waited until after before he slept with Libby. Virginia thinks that she is different from most women as she can separate sex from love and this is where we hit a stumbling block as while I believe that Virginia thinks this to be the case we need more character depth from Virginia to really get to the bottom of this.

Masters of Sex 1.07 reflectionsThis is where the final scene comes into play and it’s the classic reflection shot as we see Virginia staring intently at the bed that she just shared with Bill. He is off to meet Libby, something that Virginia encouraged earlier in the episode but now she has been left alone. Up until this point it has seemed like the Bill/Virginia attraction has been from one direction, but something has changed thanks a not-so awkward and in fact really pretty hot sexual encounter between Virginia and Bill. Bill is reinvigorated, but Virginia is left contemplating alone. What we need here is to understand more about who Virginia is as everything so far has been pretty much surface level and mostly from observations of others. Lizzy Caplan has been excellent so far so I hope they get to delve deeper as this is the one thing this show really needs. Other than the lab coat this is also the first time that Virginia has worn white and this generally represents purity, it’s an interesting costume choice to come after a scene like this.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Libby and EthanI’ve buried the lede somewhat but Libby asks Ethan for help conceiving because it will help save her life. This is a bold and rather grand statement but Libby believes that if she has a baby with Bill then they will share in loving something together. A shared passion is lacking and this has been obvious from the first episode. Libby performs the function of 1950s housewife because effectively that’s what she is and she thinks a baby will bring her closer to Bill and fill the void in her life. Libby in incredibly glamorous and her Grace Kelly stylings are on show throughout the episode. This is where a comparison could be drawn between Masters of Sex and Mad Men, but it’s hardly surprising that Grace Kelly is a recognizable influence considering her star power at this time, just listen to how the car salesman tries to use Kelly’s look as a selling point.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Libby seduction attemptThe Grace Kelly influence can been seen with both drunk and hungover Libby and Libby’s clothes tend to fall into two camps – Grace Kelly glamour and housewife chic. It’s why I found it so amusing that she mentioned getting dressed to make dinner as she needed to get out of her clothes for the world to see into her home attire. See I do this, but it involves pajama pants or sweats. Not as decadent as what Libby likely has in mind. In the scene above she does the opposite and swaps her regular Household magazine reading wardrobe for something with a flash of fancy.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Household magazineI just got stuck in a black hole of cover archive photos of Household magazine and it’s mesmerizing. Who knew there are so many ways to improve your house on the cheap?! Unlike today’s magazines bylines don’t clutter the cover image – I’m somewhat of a magazine enthusiast so I find this kind of thing fascinating.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Lord HarryThe ad that catches Libby’s eye is for Lord Harry gin, which as far as my internet research can tell me is a made up brand and therefore this is a fabricated ad – excellent work from the prop department because this looks all kinds of real. If you google Lord Harry and alcohol you will find Harry Potter suggested cocktails instead.

Masters of Sex hungove LibbyLibby comes to see Virginia looking amazing despite her hangover – giant sunglasses are perfect for this kind of occasion – and she wants to discuss her sex life with Virginia. Ethan has already dropped a giant foreshadowing anvil saying that Bill and Virginia would never end up together and while they’re doing what they’re doing for science (at the moment) it’s clear that Virginia feels guilty about the impact on Libby. Libby and Bill haven’t been hot and heavy in the entire time we have seen them, but this doesn’t mean that Virginia won’t draw the line and stop their participation until Bill has tended to matters at home.

Masters of Sex 1.07 got woodBill sets about this task like gangbusters and this is the most intimate and passionate that we have seen this couple; it feels incredibly spontaneous even though we are fully aware of why Masters is taking the lead. When Libby puts her jacket around Bill it’s a sweet and tender moment, but both Libby and Bill are lying to each other. Libby needs to have sex with Bill so it doesn’t look like she has immaculately conceived and Bill just wants to sleep with Virginia again. Even though it’s sex through deception I’m glad we finally got to see some intimacy between this pair.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Margaret and AustinTalking of intimacy Margaret Scully is back in red after her experience with Austin last week and she feels truly alive; she compares what she has with him to giving birth and getting married. It’s that much of a life changing experience and she’s another person who credits someone with saving her life this week. For Austin this is a big ‘holy shit what have I got myself into’ moment as he used this original encounter with Margaret to get over his own performance problem.

Masters of Sex

Austin is still going to therapy and still thinks it’s all bullshit even though his therapist nails it when he says that Austin talks about women as being types rather than people. Austin’s metaphor about Margaret being like the high striker is all over the place and the therapist uses this as another way to show that Austin basically equates women with being objects. When Austin is at Margaret’s house he plays dress up in Barton’s glasses and sits in his chair which feels somewhat childlike. Later Margaret gives him milk which he claims hasn’t happened to him since he was 10. There is so much Freudian stuff going on in these scenes.

Masters of Sex 1.07 awkward breakfastWhat Margaret really wants is a reaction from her husband and to understand why Barton doesn’t want her physically. Barton of course all but spells it out to Margaret by overtly stipulating that he hasn’t been with another woman. Margaret thinks it’s something to do with her and it’s a heartbreaking scene that underlines how hard it was being gay in this period. By denying who Barton is, he is also hurting his wife. As with Bill and Virginia’s bathrobe scene there is vulnerability here, but in this case it’s matched by a daily routine that becomes too much for Margaret as she demands the truth. Barton is the one character this week whose life really was in danger and he is saved by Dale after he is set upon for waiting in a cruising spot. This is all kept hush hush with only Bill knowing the truth about why Barton didn’t want to go to hospital.

Masters of Sex 1.07 JANE

As I suggested last week, Jane would be the perfect secretary for Bill and this is a conclusion that Virginia comes to after Bill fires the previous two candidates. One of his complaints is that they couldn’t spell ‘anesthesia’ which is obviously a ridiculous stipulation and it’s hilarious that Virginia has prepped Jane to show off this spelling skill. In a show as serious as this I am glad that there are characters like Jane who provide moments of levity and once again she is wearing the bold yellow that has become her signature color. Jane is a good secretary and while Masters thinks she’s only adequate, I think she is pretty exceptional as she is one of the only open and honest people on Masters of Sex. Granted we still only know a little bit about her, but she doesn’t possess the same buttoned up quality as the majority of these characters.

Scandal 3.06 Costume Review: Team Josie Marcus

8 Nov

It seems silly to suggest that things are heating up on Scandal because it never slows down and in “Icarus” it’s getting a little bit too hot for some. There are multiple threads with B613 and Remington moving in tandem, a hint at Harrison’s past and the campaign for the Democratic nominee is giving Olivia the distraction she definitely needs right now. The big bombshell that Huck and Jake dropped at the end of last week provides much of the impetus for Olivia’s actions this week and we also get a glimpse at her childhood. Familiar costume patterns show that Olivia is trying to keep the status quo and there is a superb discussion on image and what it means to be a woman courtesy of the Josie Marcus campaign. So let’s get to it.

Scandal 3.06 Armani coat

Olivia perfects her penetrating stare this week as she tries to get to the bottom of her mother’s death while not getting anyone else that she cares about killed. This trip to the Oval Office to turn down the request to work on Fitz’s re-election campaign is a fleeting visit and Olivia doesn’t even take off her Armani Collezioni funnel neck tweed coat (it’s very similar to this Stella McCartney one from a few weeks ago). Olivia spends a lot of this episode in grey, especially when she is dealing with anything Fitz related.

Scandal 3.06 campaign OliviaA couple of white jackets do make an appearance and she explains her choice of Josie over Fitz as her standard mantra “White hats people.” Olivia wears white when they’re trying to convince those with a lot of money to give to the Marcus campaign and in this scene they are trying to explain to Josie that to win she can’t just be nice, unless she wants to be President of Candy Land of course.

Scandal Lisa KudrowThat line pokes the bear and we get this delightful shot of Lisa Kudrow as Josie Marcus showing that nice isn’t her only move. Josie doesn’t want to be made into someone that she isn’t but at this point she doesn’t get the game like Olivia does. So far Josie is playing the baking and chat show friendly lady persona when she needs to be working on combining this personable charm with her leadership skills.

Scandal 3.06 Josie baking show Scandal 3.06 the view

Both of these TV appearances show Josie doing the rounds that campaigning politicians make, but with both of these examples it is highlighting her femininity in a way that can be edited together to make Josie seem nice, but inexperienced as a leader. One of the things that The Good Wife does so well is mirror the media commentary surrounding sex scandals and elections and here Scandal is showcasing their ability to do the same.

Scandal 3.06 pitcher of iced tea

When it comes to Josie’s big interview with James, Olivia and Abby use their earlier experience of being on the receiving end of Josie’s anger to provoke her into giving the interview that will give her the bump she needs. They know that she doesn’t want to be told how to change and while she would be pissed at their manipulation it does the trick and Josie proceeds to dissect the image BS and sexism that female candidates face. This includes terminology like ‘Cinderella story’ and the pitcher of iced tea that has been put on the table by James’ producer. They’re all subtle enough phrases or images that a viewer might not give it a second thought but it helps form a perception.

If Hillary Clinton runs in 2016 I’m sure we’ll have a lot of these kinds of things to look forward to. *Sigh* This includes talk of what the candidate is wearing and they’ve been smart with Josie because there’s nothing of note to mention; her clothes are neither too flashy nor too dowdy and that’s the point. The focus should be on her, not on what she is wearing.

Scandal 3.06 drunk Olivia

Olivia needs to be busy because when she isn’t, she is at home doing the above. Seeing Olivia this drunk and desperate sounding is new, wine is normally her solace and we’ve seen her down more than one glass in the past but never like this. Olivia does what I’m sure most of us have done in the past and that is drunk dial someone you shouldn’t, though this is normally reserved for romantic mistakes. Olivia calls her dad and wants to know what he did, Eli gives her one question but isn’t particularly forthcoming.

Scandal 3.06 pocket full of polka dots

While Olivia is dealing with family drama, Harrison gets to do something other than saying Gladiators as Cyrus uses a face from his past to motivate Harrison into getting Olivia to drop Josie as a client. Harrison has a pocket full of polka dots and looks as dashing as ever. While the name Adnan Salif sends Harrison into a tailspin and the arms of Huck (well not literally, he just needs a favor) I am so glad to have a hint at a Harrison backstory.

Scandal 3.06 serious Harrison

This also leads to this darker suit/shirt/tie/pocket square combo and while it’s lacking the color of Harrison’s usual attire it’s still giving the  Harrison power clashing signature style. Will Huck come through or will Cyrus get the mysterious Adnan Salif back in the US?

Scandal 3.06 Charlie and quinn

Meanwhile, Quinn is fed up of Huck ignoring her and being terrible with guns so she lets Charlie give her some lessons. Charlie can never be trusted so it’s no surprise that he is still in cahoots with Eli Pope. The hint of black lace on Quinn’s top and the close proximity between this pair as he demonstrates his gun skills (phrasing) would suggest that an unholy union is going to occur. Oh, Quinn. Quinn also earns herself yet another nickname as Charlie refers to her as Robin – this is much better than Baby Huck but still not great.

Scandal 3.

Huck is too busy hanging out with Jake – ok they’re working on top secret spy stuff – to worry about what Quinn is doing and I think this is something he will come to regret. The B613 crew like to wear a lot of blue, nice not a deep-V Jake.

Scandal 3.06 Abby and Olivia

Abby gets to spend most of the episode with Olivia and she is super happy to be on the Marcus campaign, Abby’s makeover continues to look wonderful and this week she wears more animal prints, long cardigans and her infinite supply of belts and necklaces.

Scandal 3.06 Abby

My favorite is this Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress for the simple reason that I always love DVF wrap dresses (see pretty much everything Alana Bloom wears on Hannibal). One major drawback was the lack of David this week, but there was more than enough going on for them to get a free pass on this absence.

Scandal 3.06 Chanel pearls

At the White House Mellie is not happy that she practically begged Olivia to come back and Olivia still said no. Mellie has another plan up her sleeve when she finds out that Veep Sally’s husband has a wondering eye. There’s a brief moment of sympathy from Mellie but she’s not going to waste an opportunity like this to get Sally to fall in line. So at dinner Mellie does her best subtle flirting at it turns out that Daniel Douglas doesn’t need much prompting to get a little touchy feely. The deep dark burgundy combined with the Chanel pearls look exquisite as Mellie has her game face on.

Scandal 3.06 push ups

What’s a guy to do while he is waiting for some important information other than do some push-ups? This is an apartment that has many lights and yet still appears to be incredibly dark at the same time. Maybe it’s a spy thing.

Scandal blurry FitzLike Olivia, Fitz does a lot of staring this week including out of this window and the blurry quality suggests that he is heavily conflicted. We don’t need the window to tell us this but thanks to what he did or did not do with regard to Remington he has a lot on his mind. When Olivia drops her mother bombshell there is a flicker of confusion on his face and this looks like the first time he has heard this story. He still won’t tell her what happened though.

The Remington plot is ticking along and the other pieces are starting to come together, but it’s Lisa Kudrow’s performance that elevates this episode from good to great.

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