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Scandal 3.08 “Vermont is for Lovers, Too” Costume Review : Fantasy and Reality

22 Nov

It’s time to declare a new coat champion on Scandal and this episode featured plot twists galore (of course), a surprising end to a campaign and a whole host of shirtlessness (the absence of costuming if you will).

So let’s get to it.

Scandal 3.08 Dior DogtoothStarting with THE coat and a trip to Vermont that includes a big declaration and reconciliation of sorts. This Dior dogtooth beauty provided Olivia’s armor for her initial conversation with Fitz. After ignoring his calls and breaking the Fitz phone, Fitz pulled out the helicopter grand gesture move with the added incentive that he now knows who Olivia’s father is. Other than the fact that I find this relationship toxic (to both parties), I’m not a fan of Olivia being at Fitz’s beck and call because he uses his status as the most powerful man in the world to see her. By not taking her coat off it’s a signal that Olivia has no intention of sticking around, but Fitz soon warms her heart by revealing that he bought this house for her and things soon heat up; the armor comes off.

Scandal 3.08 back shotThis shot helps show the structure of the coat and perfectly swishy it is. It’s saying “I mean business.”

Scandal 3.08 cable knitFitz is out of his presidential attire and it helps emphasizes that this is the Fitz away from the White House, the cable knit sweater is perfectly homely and is probably what Fitz pictures himself wearing in his house in his Vermont fantasy. On this occasion it’s a reality, but I still don’t know how they can ever really make this relationship work. They steal away moments like this, is it enough? Olivia does tell Fitz that he shouldn’t sell the house which is a signal that future rendezvous are on the cards. Fitz declares his love and says he’s going to stop Eli and he does have the power of his office behind him. Cyrus has already warned of the dangers of doing this, but Fitz seems pretty determined.

Scandal 3.08 Chloe blouseThis white Chloe sleeveless blouse with a black collar is pretty standard Olivia Pope and the buttons at the back (which costume designer Lyn Paolo modified) played their part in the sexy, slow mo sex montage with Fitz.

Scandal 3.08 twirling hairMeanwhile, Mellie is twirling her hair like a lovesick school girl while watching Fitz defend on her on TV. Fitz is distracted, instantly killing Mellie’s post-interview buzz as he’s not really there for her. For a moment she allowed herself to believe that Fitz was back, but the reality of the situation is not lost on her. Mellie has been through a lot to get to where she is now, as last week’s episode revealed and it makes everything all the more tragic that this role isn’t anything like she thought/hoped it would be.

Scandal 3.08 red suit plottingMellie is part of the honey trap conspiracy with Cyrus and this Ralph Lauren red suit gives off a super traditional Nancy Reagan vibe (the pearls are of course part of the ensemble). While she plays her role perfectly in this scheme she warns what this could do to Cyrus’ marriage. Cyrus is far too arrogant to heed these words of caution as in his mind James is nothing like Fitz. James isn’t Fitz, but Cyrus has pushed him too far this time.

Scandal 3.08 plum v neckCyrus even picks out the plum v-neck that James should wear on this seduction trip. James has been manipulated by Cyrus many times in the past, however this is the first time he has whored him out for political gain. Cyrus, you really should have listened to Mellie.

Scandal 3.08 peach suitMellie’s moved away from the bold red to this soft peach tone as she comes to see Fitz after his Olivia tryst. Mellie knows what has happened, but doesn’t let on and she’s playing the “for the good of the campaign” card as she suggests asking Olivia to run their campaign again. This is the kind of tone that Olivia told Mellie to wear in the season premiere to try and win back voters; a subtle nod that she’s listening to her advice.

Scandal 3.08 JosieSpeaking of campaigns, I’m sad to see the Josie Marcus one come to an end so quickly. I know Scandal moves at a breakneck speed but it only feels like Lisa Kudrow just got here. The outfit in the shot above is the most Olivia Pope Josie has looked in the entire run and shows the subtle work with Josie’s appearance that OP&A have done.

Scandal 3.08 popped collarHarrison did get to pull his most pissed off face all while looking super dapper in his popped collar trench, pinstripe shirt and polka dot tie combo. Harrison also got in on the shirtless action this week as after dressing Candice down for her rookie PR moves, he slept with her. Is this the first time we have seen Harrison get in on the romance?

Scandal 3.08 QuinnQuinn has got herself into a very Quinn like problem as now B613 “owns her” after she killed the security guard on camera. I’m not sure if there is much more they can do with this character and now she’s facing down the barrel of Huck’s pliers set. The two different shades of blue look good on her, maybe dial back the eyeliner. Abby is less kind to Quinn’s look as she gives the unknown suspect (that is Quinn) a fashion burn saying it’s a woman in a “cheap skirt suit and dumpy heels.”

Scandal 3.08 Abby DVFRounding off the associates is Abby – who should also ease up on the darker eyes- wearing another Diane von Furstenberg item that I would very much like in my closet. This time it’s an Alyce Houndstooth pencil skirt.

Scandal 3.08 beltBelts like this one are very much part of the season 3 Abby look and things are going well with David even if he refers to her co-works as Popeheads (hee).

Scandal 3.08 chuncky knitBack to Olivia and one of her many white chunky knit pieces of lounge wear. I just wanted to mention this scene in relation to something Mama Pope says when she mentions that she used to make Olivia popcorn when she was sad. Eli dismisses this and claims that she doesn’t know what Olivia is like, we know popcorn is pretty much what Olivia lives on and she’s pretty sad all of the time (especially at the moment). Olivia clears away a bowl of popcorn in this moment as she ignores the Fitz phone.

So Mama Pope has revealed herself to her daughter! This is an example of the crazy pacing of this show and I never expected this to happen as quick as this. I have no idea what this is going to do to the plot of the show but as long as we don’t have to see anyone eat their own wrists again then I will be very happy. In the meantime, I’m going to go on an Alias binge while we wait to find out what the return of Maya will do to Olivia.

Scandal 3.07 Costume Review: The Making of Mellie

15 Nov

It’s a big episode for Mellie as we find out what she was like long before the “Grant for President” campaign and we learn just how much she has sacrificed to become First Lady, a role that she pretty much despises. It’s a hard episode to watch because of what happens to Mellie and I’m still feeling uneasy about how this incident has been used as a plot device, particularly with the super soapy twist.

Scandal 3.07 Mellie docStarting with the present and the role we are used to seeing Mellie in as she puts her First Lady host hat on. This is the aspect of being in the White House that Mellie detests but she’s good at fake smiling her way through it all. The royal blue Michael Kors ensemble is a typically Mellie and denotes power. She’s wearing one of her many pearl necklaces and this is pretty much her standard First Lady uniform. Mellie’s hair is showing of the volume we have come to expect.

Scandal 3.07 no lipstick MellieFlip back 15 years (flashback filter alert) and it’s a very different look and I’m in agreement with this tweet from Libby Hill “Sorry Scandal, I don’t believe Mellie was ever the kind of woman to not wear lipstick.” Mellie is all fresh faced and in love and it looks like Fitz is confused by Cyrus’ beard – Cyrus also has another beard as he mentions his wife. It’s all idealistic at this point and this doesn’t last for long as Fitz’s dad is a big booming voice of derision (and much worse later on).

Scandal 3.07 turtleneck FitzThe neutral color scheme here is pure Olivia Pope and there’s a unity between Fitz and Mellie in this shot that we barely see in the present. Fitz is wearing a turtleneck and jeans and it’s a very waspy look.

Scandal 3.07 Mellie flowersThere are no pearls and this haircut screams mid to late 90s – they mentioned the Boston bombing a few weeks ago so this makes Scandal world in the same year as us; making these flashbacks are 1998. The floral dress is pretty and I could even see Mellie in something similar to this now (not paired with that cardigan and in a darker color), it also happens to be what Mellie is wearing when Fitz’s father rapes her. Yep, this happens and it’s awful and while I think that it is a step too far this review from Sonia Saraiya provides a good argument as to why this moment is important in the construction of who Mellie is now.

Scandal 3.07 Mellie turtleneckThe day after, Gerry tries to bring it up and apologize that ‘things got out of hand’ and Mellie doesn’t want to hear any of it as she has an entirely different plan. The only real acknowledgment is when she enters the room and wraps her cardigan around herself. The turtleneck is the most covered you can make your neck look and this is a sign that she doesn’t want any part of herself exposed to this vile man who just takes what he wants. Mellie is pragmatic and this is the first in a long line of moments that she fake smiles her way through. Bellamy Young is exceptional in this episode and Mellie makes my heart ache with her post-assault reaction and then this brushing it under the carpet decision.

Scandal 3.07 drunk MellieThe rape scene is followed by this incredible and slightly disorientating shot in the Oval Office as Mellie walks around bare foot drinking whiskey. It’s here that she hints at what she has been through, but Fitz is as clueless as ever when it comes to fathers (he later finds out that Rowan is Eli Pope). Mellie lays it all out here, she knows that there’s no longer any romantic love but can’t Fitz have her back the way she has his? This is the second pleading speech that Mellie has given recently and for all of Mellie’s schemes she does it all for Fitz (and to be part of a power couple) but she’s the one taking shit for his keeping his pants on problems.

Scandal 3.07 Baby TeddyPart of this plan to make her more likable to the general public involves parading baby Teddy around who is super adorable as he plays with his mother’s pearls.

Scandal 3.07 Mellie and CyrusMore pearls (as with last week they are vintage Chanel) and an amazing purple dress as Mellie gets her scheme on with Cyrus. It’s all back to normal, except this time Mellie and Fitz aren’t declaring war on each other and they seem to be on the same page. I’m looking forward to a Mellie/Fitz united front because the ‘I hate you, no I hate you more’ saga has become a little repetitive.

Scandal 3.07 flashbackOne final moment from the flashback scenes and Mellie looks happy as they start Fitz’s campaign for governor. She also tells him that she is pregnant and it’s this moment that made me throw my hands up as do we really need a “Who is the daddy?” story, especially one like this? This is probably the first time that Mellie did the faking it in public thing and it’s something she has become the master of. This is when Mellie developed the hard exterior and she barely lets the mask slip now.

Scandal 3.07 AMAZING Dior CoatMoving on to Olivia and this black Dior coat with big white lapels and cuffs is everything. Olivia has a lot of AMAZING coats and this one is up there with the Burberry trench from the season 3 premiere. The full skirt with a white lining on this coat makes it perfect for swishing purposes.

Scandal 3.07 spy shotHere is a better look thanks to Fitz’s surveillance guy. Olivia looks sad and with the reveal that her mother is alive (WHAT?! Yeah the only surprise is that this reveal came this early) I’m sure she’s not going to get any less conflicted soon. I want to see the more defiant Olivia and I know this will be hard considering the shit that is piling up, but there’s been a lot of semi crying Olivia recently.

Scandal Olivia in blueIt’s a rare sight, but Olivia is wearing something in blue and maybe her recent state of mind is throwing her off her usual wardrobe patterns. It’s a color that softens her and it complements the lighter shade of blue that Jake is wearing.

Scandal 3.07 Harrison's pink suspendersThere are two things you can guarantee with Harrison; that he won’t say no to a request from Olivia and that he will be wearing snazzy suspenders. This time in hot pink.

Scandal 3.07 watch chainAbby’s new look involves a lot of accessories including this amazing necklace and costume designer Lyn Paolo revealed that it is made from a vintage Movado watch. Darby Stanchfield also features on this week’s TV Ate My Wardrobe “Out of the Box.”

Scandal 3.07 braggart QuinnQuinn’s top is pretty hypnotic and maybe she stared at it for too long as Quinn did something incredibly dumb this week; not only did she smooch Charlie, but she’s now another pawn in the B613 parade. Oh Quinn, when will you learn? I think the answer is probably never. Pro tip – don’t brag about how awesomely perceptive you are and then go and kill an innocent person.

Scandal 3.07 JakeAlso hanging around is Jake and Olivia ignores Fitz’s warning to a) not hang out with Jake and b) not look into the reasons behind the plane crash. Jake’s wearing a leather jacket so he might be bad news for Fitz but he looks pretty great on protection duty.

Scandal 3.07 Say WhatOne final shot of Harrison wearing three different patterns and both Abby and Harrison are pulling their best “You what?” faces. There is no reference to Harrison’s troubled past and we don’t even get a David Rosen mention, let alone an appearance.

The Good Wife and a Tale of Two Suits

12 Nov

The Good Wife made a bold move at the end of last season as Alicia decided to start her own law firm with Cary. Instead of opting for a time jump a la Mad Men the tension has dramatically increased as we watch the tumultuous process play out. The Good Wife doesn’t have a habit of disappointing (I’m pretending Kalinda’s ex didn’t happen) but this storyline has taken the show to new heights and it has been one of the most compelling shows of the year.

Last week Anne Helen Petersen wrote an excellent piece about the evolving costumes on The Good Wife and what meanings can be derived from the uniforms these characters wear. One of Petersen’s comments that really helps emphasize why I find costuming so fascinating is because “Wardrobe matters because wardrobe communicates.” This leads me to two of the trips that Alicia makes to Lockhart/Gardner in the most recent episode “The Next Week.” It’s the first time Alicia has been back to her old firm since she was escorted from the building by security and her outfit upon her return makes a statement.

Alicia Escada Tuxedo JacketThis is not the face of someone who regrets her decision, even if Florrick, Agos & Associates have hit a number of speed bumps in their first week as a firm – the time frame of the last 4 episodes has covered just over a week in their time. Alicia is not attempting to blend in or wallflower this situation in this midnight blue (it reads black on the screen but costume designer Daniel Lawson refers to it as blue) Escada tuxedo blazer that stands out thanks to the contrasting white panels that sit under the lapels.

Alicia The Good WifeWhen Diane stalked the corridors of L/G a few weeks ago when she was having her own dispute with Will (which has now been resolved) she did so pretty uninterrupted. Diane was also dressed in a dark color and at the time I remarked there was something predatory about those scenes. Alicia represents a different kind of danger and the reaction of the L/G employees is to not enter her sphere as if she has some kind of plague. This is probably thanks to Will’s “destroy the competition” mantra and no one wants to be seen anywhere near Alicia. I’ve been writing about Scandal a lot recently and so the light and dark contrasting elements on the blazer combined with the white cowl neck blouse is giving me all kinds of Olivia Pope associations. Like Olivia, Alicia might have a confident demeanor, but there is still much conflict at play.

Alicia and the opposite sidesIt’s not going to be easy to get a rise out of Alicia as she sits on the opposite side because at this point she has leverage over them. Diane might be wearing the bold red that is generally associated with Alicia – Diane has previously worn this color but there are strong associations that tie Alicia with red clothing – but in this scene Alicia has the upper hand. Diane asks if Alicia has always been like this giving Alicia the opportunity to flip it around as she “had some of the best teachers in the world. I couldn’t help but change.”

Alicia grey pant suitThere is one notable person missing from the first meeting and that’s Will. When returning to L/G for a third time Alicia’s costuming makes her look less self-assured. Alicia is back in grey and while this Ferragamo pantsuit is more tailored that her season 1 outfits, it still harks back to a time when Alicia’s confidence wasn’t particularly high. In the scene captured in the photo above Will and Alicia share a moment; neither speaks a word but the penetrating stare between them could fill volumes with betrayal and heartbreak. Last week saw Will enjoying this personal sparring match with Alicia, this time they are both caught off guard and because they are back at the scene of the crime it feels incredibly fraught all over again.

Alicia Florrick and a different kind of exitLater Alicia is blindsided by the actions of Anthony, who with endless moaning about bonuses and terribly executed schemes has always been the weakest link in the FA&A chain. Alicia’s expression here as she exits Lockhart/Gardner is the polar opposite of how she entered these offices at the start of the episode and I’m impressed that she doesn’t tell David Lee to go fuck himself (in a network approved manner of course).

Returning to Anne Helen Petersen’s piece and this all important observation “Yet as Alicia rose through the ranks in the firm, had a steamy affair with her boss/old flame, and laid down the law with her husband, her suits got wild, and by wild, I mean they got peplumed.” The first suit in question doesn’t feature a peplum, but the details are just as bold and demonstrates through costuming the change that Alicia informs Diane was inevitable. Grey isn’t necessarily a color that denotes weakness in Alicia, but there is a shift in her confidence in the latter half of this episode that is reflected in what she is wearing. The case is going against her and FA&A face another setback thanks to Anthony’s deception; it’s not all doom and gloom as they’ve gained Clarke so it’s time to bring out the bold suits and continue to fight this fight.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Review: How to Save a Life

11 Nov

Don’t worry this isn’t going to turn into a Fray sing-along (though I am sorry if it’s now stuck in your head, as it is in mine) but there is a lot of talk in this week’s Masters of Sex revolving around the idea of saving someone’s life and they all occur in secret. While certain storylines are bubbling to the surface, there is still much that is not being outwardly discussed. The same could be said for both the study and Virginia and Bill’s relationship; both are progressing and barriers are being broken but there are still lines that are constantly being redefined.

Masters of Sex 1.07 bow tie undoneOne huge development is that Bill and Virginia are now participating in the study with each other and the opening scene showed just how awkward this can be when it is pure science and no passion. Bill is still pretty clueless when it comes to the non-medical aspects of sex and when a couple he is treating mentions the Karma Sutra his world is blown wide open. Things do get better for Bill and Virginia as the episode progresses and there is a relaxed atmosphere in the scene above as Bill lets his bow tie hang loose; he’s becoming slightly less buttoned up.

There’s no need for either of them to wear their white coats now – in the first post sex scene they were both wearing them but now things have progressed beyond that. The dress Virginia is wearing is nothing out of the ordinary for her, but this episode does see the return of both burgundy and red to the wardrobe color palette that was mostly lacking last week. Bill offers to zip up her dress, but Virginia insists that she has got it, maybe to reduce the intimacy of this moment they just shared.

Masters of Sex 1.07 bathrobesThese are the blue robes we are familiar with, but this is the first time we have seen either Bill or Virginia in one and there is something vulnerable about this almost naked state. The build up to this scene has Bill and Virginia answering their questionnaires intercut with them getting undressed separately in a very practical manner, there’s no tearing off clothes here. Their answers are of course very different; Virginia lost her virginity at 15, Bill at 20. Virginia slept with both of her husband’s before they were married, Bill waited until after before he slept with Libby. Virginia thinks that she is different from most women as she can separate sex from love and this is where we hit a stumbling block as while I believe that Virginia thinks this to be the case we need more character depth from Virginia to really get to the bottom of this.

Masters of Sex 1.07 reflectionsThis is where the final scene comes into play and it’s the classic reflection shot as we see Virginia staring intently at the bed that she just shared with Bill. He is off to meet Libby, something that Virginia encouraged earlier in the episode but now she has been left alone. Up until this point it has seemed like the Bill/Virginia attraction has been from one direction, but something has changed thanks a not-so awkward and in fact really pretty hot sexual encounter between Virginia and Bill. Bill is reinvigorated, but Virginia is left contemplating alone. What we need here is to understand more about who Virginia is as everything so far has been pretty much surface level and mostly from observations of others. Lizzy Caplan has been excellent so far so I hope they get to delve deeper as this is the one thing this show really needs. Other than the lab coat this is also the first time that Virginia has worn white and this generally represents purity, it’s an interesting costume choice to come after a scene like this.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Libby and EthanI’ve buried the lede somewhat but Libby asks Ethan for help conceiving because it will help save her life. This is a bold and rather grand statement but Libby believes that if she has a baby with Bill then they will share in loving something together. A shared passion is lacking and this has been obvious from the first episode. Libby performs the function of 1950s housewife because effectively that’s what she is and she thinks a baby will bring her closer to Bill and fill the void in her life. Libby in incredibly glamorous and her Grace Kelly stylings are on show throughout the episode. This is where a comparison could be drawn between Masters of Sex and Mad Men, but it’s hardly surprising that Grace Kelly is a recognizable influence considering her star power at this time, just listen to how the car salesman tries to use Kelly’s look as a selling point.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Libby seduction attemptThe Grace Kelly influence can been seen with both drunk and hungover Libby and Libby’s clothes tend to fall into two camps – Grace Kelly glamour and housewife chic. It’s why I found it so amusing that she mentioned getting dressed to make dinner as she needed to get out of her clothes for the world to see into her home attire. See I do this, but it involves pajama pants or sweats. Not as decadent as what Libby likely has in mind. In the scene above she does the opposite and swaps her regular Household magazine reading wardrobe for something with a flash of fancy.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Household magazineI just got stuck in a black hole of cover archive photos of Household magazine and it’s mesmerizing. Who knew there are so many ways to improve your house on the cheap?! Unlike today’s magazines bylines don’t clutter the cover image – I’m somewhat of a magazine enthusiast so I find this kind of thing fascinating.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Lord HarryThe ad that catches Libby’s eye is for Lord Harry gin, which as far as my internet research can tell me is a made up brand and therefore this is a fabricated ad – excellent work from the prop department because this looks all kinds of real. If you google Lord Harry and alcohol you will find Harry Potter suggested cocktails instead.

Masters of Sex hungove LibbyLibby comes to see Virginia looking amazing despite her hangover – giant sunglasses are perfect for this kind of occasion – and she wants to discuss her sex life with Virginia. Ethan has already dropped a giant foreshadowing anvil saying that Bill and Virginia would never end up together and while they’re doing what they’re doing for science (at the moment) it’s clear that Virginia feels guilty about the impact on Libby. Libby and Bill haven’t been hot and heavy in the entire time we have seen them, but this doesn’t mean that Virginia won’t draw the line and stop their participation until Bill has tended to matters at home.

Masters of Sex 1.07 got woodBill sets about this task like gangbusters and this is the most intimate and passionate that we have seen this couple; it feels incredibly spontaneous even though we are fully aware of why Masters is taking the lead. When Libby puts her jacket around Bill it’s a sweet and tender moment, but both Libby and Bill are lying to each other. Libby needs to have sex with Bill so it doesn’t look like she has immaculately conceived and Bill just wants to sleep with Virginia again. Even though it’s sex through deception I’m glad we finally got to see some intimacy between this pair.

Masters of Sex 1.07 Margaret and AustinTalking of intimacy Margaret Scully is back in red after her experience with Austin last week and she feels truly alive; she compares what she has with him to giving birth and getting married. It’s that much of a life changing experience and she’s another person who credits someone with saving her life this week. For Austin this is a big ‘holy shit what have I got myself into’ moment as he used this original encounter with Margaret to get over his own performance problem.

Masters of Sex

Austin is still going to therapy and still thinks it’s all bullshit even though his therapist nails it when he says that Austin talks about women as being types rather than people. Austin’s metaphor about Margaret being like the high striker is all over the place and the therapist uses this as another way to show that Austin basically equates women with being objects. When Austin is at Margaret’s house he plays dress up in Barton’s glasses and sits in his chair which feels somewhat childlike. Later Margaret gives him milk which he claims hasn’t happened to him since he was 10. There is so much Freudian stuff going on in these scenes.

Masters of Sex 1.07 awkward breakfastWhat Margaret really wants is a reaction from her husband and to understand why Barton doesn’t want her physically. Barton of course all but spells it out to Margaret by overtly stipulating that he hasn’t been with another woman. Margaret thinks it’s something to do with her and it’s a heartbreaking scene that underlines how hard it was being gay in this period. By denying who Barton is, he is also hurting his wife. As with Bill and Virginia’s bathrobe scene there is vulnerability here, but in this case it’s matched by a daily routine that becomes too much for Margaret as she demands the truth. Barton is the one character this week whose life really was in danger and he is saved by Dale after he is set upon for waiting in a cruising spot. This is all kept hush hush with only Bill knowing the truth about why Barton didn’t want to go to hospital.

Masters of Sex 1.07 JANE

As I suggested last week, Jane would be the perfect secretary for Bill and this is a conclusion that Virginia comes to after Bill fires the previous two candidates. One of his complaints is that they couldn’t spell ‘anesthesia’ which is obviously a ridiculous stipulation and it’s hilarious that Virginia has prepped Jane to show off this spelling skill. In a show as serious as this I am glad that there are characters like Jane who provide moments of levity and once again she is wearing the bold yellow that has become her signature color. Jane is a good secretary and while Masters thinks she’s only adequate, I think she is pretty exceptional as she is one of the only open and honest people on Masters of Sex. Granted we still only know a little bit about her, but she doesn’t possess the same buttoned up quality as the majority of these characters.

Scandal 3.06 Costume Review: Team Josie Marcus

8 Nov

It seems silly to suggest that things are heating up on Scandal because it never slows down and in “Icarus” it’s getting a little bit too hot for some. There are multiple threads with B613 and Remington moving in tandem, a hint at Harrison’s past and the campaign for the Democratic nominee is giving Olivia the distraction she definitely needs right now. The big bombshell that Huck and Jake dropped at the end of last week provides much of the impetus for Olivia’s actions this week and we also get a glimpse at her childhood. Familiar costume patterns show that Olivia is trying to keep the status quo and there is a superb discussion on image and what it means to be a woman courtesy of the Josie Marcus campaign. So let’s get to it.

Scandal 3.06 Armani coat

Olivia perfects her penetrating stare this week as she tries to get to the bottom of her mother’s death while not getting anyone else that she cares about killed. This trip to the Oval Office to turn down the request to work on Fitz’s re-election campaign is a fleeting visit and Olivia doesn’t even take off her Armani Collezioni funnel neck tweed coat (it’s very similar to this Stella McCartney one from a few weeks ago). Olivia spends a lot of this episode in grey, especially when she is dealing with anything Fitz related.

Scandal 3.06 campaign OliviaA couple of white jackets do make an appearance and she explains her choice of Josie over Fitz as her standard mantra “White hats people.” Olivia wears white when they’re trying to convince those with a lot of money to give to the Marcus campaign and in this scene they are trying to explain to Josie that to win she can’t just be nice, unless she wants to be President of Candy Land of course.

Scandal Lisa KudrowThat line pokes the bear and we get this delightful shot of Lisa Kudrow as Josie Marcus showing that nice isn’t her only move. Josie doesn’t want to be made into someone that she isn’t but at this point she doesn’t get the game like Olivia does. So far Josie is playing the baking and chat show friendly lady persona when she needs to be working on combining this personable charm with her leadership skills.

Scandal 3.06 Josie baking show Scandal 3.06 the view

Both of these TV appearances show Josie doing the rounds that campaigning politicians make, but with both of these examples it is highlighting her femininity in a way that can be edited together to make Josie seem nice, but inexperienced as a leader. One of the things that The Good Wife does so well is mirror the media commentary surrounding sex scandals and elections and here Scandal is showcasing their ability to do the same.

Scandal 3.06 pitcher of iced tea

When it comes to Josie’s big interview with James, Olivia and Abby use their earlier experience of being on the receiving end of Josie’s anger to provoke her into giving the interview that will give her the bump she needs. They know that she doesn’t want to be told how to change and while she would be pissed at their manipulation it does the trick and Josie proceeds to dissect the image BS and sexism that female candidates face. This includes terminology like ‘Cinderella story’ and the pitcher of iced tea that has been put on the table by James’ producer. They’re all subtle enough phrases or images that a viewer might not give it a second thought but it helps form a perception.

If Hillary Clinton runs in 2016 I’m sure we’ll have a lot of these kinds of things to look forward to. *Sigh* This includes talk of what the candidate is wearing and they’ve been smart with Josie because there’s nothing of note to mention; her clothes are neither too flashy nor too dowdy and that’s the point. The focus should be on her, not on what she is wearing.

Scandal 3.06 drunk Olivia

Olivia needs to be busy because when she isn’t, she is at home doing the above. Seeing Olivia this drunk and desperate sounding is new, wine is normally her solace and we’ve seen her down more than one glass in the past but never like this. Olivia does what I’m sure most of us have done in the past and that is drunk dial someone you shouldn’t, though this is normally reserved for romantic mistakes. Olivia calls her dad and wants to know what he did, Eli gives her one question but isn’t particularly forthcoming.

Scandal 3.06 pocket full of polka dots

While Olivia is dealing with family drama, Harrison gets to do something other than saying Gladiators as Cyrus uses a face from his past to motivate Harrison into getting Olivia to drop Josie as a client. Harrison has a pocket full of polka dots and looks as dashing as ever. While the name Adnan Salif sends Harrison into a tailspin and the arms of Huck (well not literally, he just needs a favor) I am so glad to have a hint at a Harrison backstory.

Scandal 3.06 serious Harrison

This also leads to this darker suit/shirt/tie/pocket square combo and while it’s lacking the color of Harrison’s usual attire it’s still giving the  Harrison power clashing signature style. Will Huck come through or will Cyrus get the mysterious Adnan Salif back in the US?

Scandal 3.06 Charlie and quinn

Meanwhile, Quinn is fed up of Huck ignoring her and being terrible with guns so she lets Charlie give her some lessons. Charlie can never be trusted so it’s no surprise that he is still in cahoots with Eli Pope. The hint of black lace on Quinn’s top and the close proximity between this pair as he demonstrates his gun skills (phrasing) would suggest that an unholy union is going to occur. Oh, Quinn. Quinn also earns herself yet another nickname as Charlie refers to her as Robin – this is much better than Baby Huck but still not great.

Scandal 3.

Huck is too busy hanging out with Jake – ok they’re working on top secret spy stuff – to worry about what Quinn is doing and I think this is something he will come to regret. The B613 crew like to wear a lot of blue, nice not a deep-V Jake.

Scandal 3.06 Abby and Olivia

Abby gets to spend most of the episode with Olivia and she is super happy to be on the Marcus campaign, Abby’s makeover continues to look wonderful and this week she wears more animal prints, long cardigans and her infinite supply of belts and necklaces.

Scandal 3.06 Abby

My favorite is this Diane von Furstenberg wrap dress for the simple reason that I always love DVF wrap dresses (see pretty much everything Alana Bloom wears on Hannibal). One major drawback was the lack of David this week, but there was more than enough going on for them to get a free pass on this absence.

Scandal 3.06 Chanel pearls

At the White House Mellie is not happy that she practically begged Olivia to come back and Olivia still said no. Mellie has another plan up her sleeve when she finds out that Veep Sally’s husband has a wondering eye. There’s a brief moment of sympathy from Mellie but she’s not going to waste an opportunity like this to get Sally to fall in line. So at dinner Mellie does her best subtle flirting at it turns out that Daniel Douglas doesn’t need much prompting to get a little touchy feely. The deep dark burgundy combined with the Chanel pearls look exquisite as Mellie has her game face on.

Scandal 3.06 push ups

What’s a guy to do while he is waiting for some important information other than do some push-ups? This is an apartment that has many lights and yet still appears to be incredibly dark at the same time. Maybe it’s a spy thing.

Scandal blurry FitzLike Olivia, Fitz does a lot of staring this week including out of this window and the blurry quality suggests that he is heavily conflicted. We don’t need the window to tell us this but thanks to what he did or did not do with regard to Remington he has a lot on his mind. When Olivia drops her mother bombshell there is a flicker of confusion on his face and this looks like the first time he has heard this story. He still won’t tell her what happened though.

The Remington plot is ticking along and the other pieces are starting to come together, but it’s Lisa Kudrow’s performance that elevates this episode from good to great.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Review: Different Kinds of Therapy

4 Nov

The women of Masters of Sex are doing it for themselves in a variety of ways in an episode that explores several different therapeutic methods. There’s a lot of healing that needs to be done and while this isn’t entirely successful, the study moves forward with leaps and bounds. Costuming patterns are repeated and continue to evolve and this is the first episode in which one of the prominent characters doesn’t wear red. In an episode that sees Virginia taking the reins of the research this may come as a surprise to lose one of her dominant and most powerful costuming color but it shows that Virginia is gaining confidence in her abilities as a vital member of this team.

Masters of Sex ep 6 lectureWe open with Virginia and Jane at a lecture being given by Sigmund Freud’s daughter, Anna and this kickstarts a discussion about Freud’s theory on female orgasms. Virginia is in professional mode and her grey suit mimics the styling of Dr. Lillian DePaul. It’s not as stiff or formal looking as Dr. DePaul’s and Virginia’s natural openness is why so many different people warm to her; she puts people at ease and they feel more comfortable sharing their most private information. Jane’s costuming continues to feature a range of blues and yellows and like Virginia, Jane is warm and approachable. “Brave New World” gives this pairing a chance to shine as friends, colleagues and pioneers.

Masters of Sex 1.06 lunch with JaneVirginia is skeptical when it comes to Freud in part because of what she has personally experienced and she is not alone as Bill has issues with Freud’s theories. Jane is more convinced by his work and part of that is thanks to Freud’s appearance as a photo in his book shows him with a cigar and this apparently indicates his wisdom – sometimes a cigar is just a cigar. Virginia and Jane discuss Freud over lunch and they standout in a cafeteria of white nurse uniforms and dark doctor suits. Jane is once again in one of her primary bold colors.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Libby and JaneOne woman is in a lab coat, the other in a bathrobe but you don’t get a sense of inequality with this pairing and it feels like real teamwork at play. This scene also gives us the line “My clitoris beat my vagina” and that’s going to be hard to top. Masters is away on vacation with Libby which is why it is left to Virginia to debunk Freud’s theories about women and she goes about this task with poise and enthusiasm.

Masters of Sex 1.06 phone callSomething has shifted between Virginia and Bill since his breakdown at the end of last week and even though he is surprised to hear that she is ringing from his office – and yes she lies about sitting in his chair, people are very fussy about their chairs – there is a new found trust and respect. This is why Bill doesn’t respond well to Dr. DePaul’s complaints that people mistake Virginia for a doctor when she doesn’t have the qualifications. This is a reverse of the conversation that Virginia had with Bill a few weeks ago when he listed his own credentials and experience as a reason why she is the one who has to get the laundry.

Masters of Sex 1.06 a new titleThe shot above is Virginia’s reaction to the news that she has a new job title; she is no longer Bill’s secretary, she is now a researcher. This calls into mind another conversation that occurred in the same episode as the laundry discussion when Virginia referred to herself as an assistant rather than a secretary to Betty. Is there a difference in these titles? Well, yes there is and it sets Virginia apart from the other women in the secretary pool and it brings to mind Peggy’s promotion in Mad Men. Dr. DePaul believes that Bill is being swayed by Virginia’s looks but if she actually listened to Virginia when she talks about her interest in medical matters she would soon come to realize that Virginia is more than a bit of fluff and she would be a good ally to have. Bill mentions getting a new secretary and I hope that Jane will get this job as she already knows the ins and outs of the study (PHRASING) and she’s an asset to the team. Virginia is in green in this scene and as a color of prosperity it represents the growth of Virginia’s relationship with Bill.

At the end of the episode Virginia takes a step with Bill that she hesitated at in the past; it is a giddy reaction to the data they have collected and a desire to see how much more they can both prove and disprove. It’s a conflicting scene because we know that Virginia is good friends with Libby and up to this point Masters of Sex has carved out two strong female friendships. I hesitate to talk about the future direction of Virginia and Bill’s relationship even if history isn’t really a spoiler but some knowledge of this is informing these scenes as well.

Masters of Sex ep 6 LibbyBill and Libby’s vacation to Miami is an attempt to escape their grief and get away from the elephant in the room that haunts their every conversation at home. Their neighbor has just had a baby and Libby attempts to ignore what has just happened in her own life when she goes to see her. She wraps her pink cardigan around herself as a form of protection and it’s awkward as neither the neighbor nor Libby knows how talk around this matter. This includes pointing out that there is something different about Libby, she’s had a haircut and Libby’s situation is not mentioned. Nobody is at fault during this conversation but it is clear that some time away could be a big help. The loss of this baby shouldn’t be ignored, at the same time people deal with tragedy in a variety of ways and for Libby the healing process requires somewhere else.

Masters of Sex 1.06 FloridaOn vacation they don’t have to be the couple that lost their baby and instead they can be the couple celebrating their wedding anniversary. Bill looks incredibly uncomfortable as often does in social situations like this, but vacation really looks good on Libby. Even if it is a temporary mask for her sorrow.

Masters of sex 1.06 Libby in underwearThe spell is broken pretty quickly despite Libby best attempts to distract Bill; he’s either timing the couple next door having sex or he is on the phone to Virginia discussing research. Libby’s not going to let her new holiday wardrobe go to waste including her swimwear in the shot above – yes I love that it has a matching jacket . She sends Bill packing and decides to stay as this is what she needs. It’s a pretty ballsy move and with each week I like Libby even more.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Libby getting drunkBill’s departure gives Libby the chance to let her hair down and drink some strawberry daiquiris with the older couple from the room next door (it’s Serena’s grandmother Cece from Gossip Girl). Libby’s outfit wouldn’t look out of place back home, aside from the straw sunhat as it’s her standard pink pastel color scheme. Barb’s got a lot more skin on show despite her years on Libby and Libby is drawn to this couple because they are so different to her own experience. Libby comes up with a fake life for herself where she has two children and in this world her husband is dead; her life is still not perfect in this reality but she has children.

Masters of Sex 1.06 drunker LibbyAs the drinks flow Libby gets the name of her imaginary son wrong and things start to spiral. Libby deals with her grief with more denial and she ends up with an unwelcome visitor and a proposition from Maurice. He talks about how his wife is like home, but sometimes you want to travel. Ah, got to love the cheating 101 chat up lines. He claims that Barbs likes to listen, which could of course be true but it’s too much for Libby and she reveals that her husband isn’t dead. This new identity she created momentarily doesn’t really work out and it’s unclear whether this trip has been the therapy Libby thought it could be.

Masters of Sex 1.06 MargaretWhile Libby is pretty buttoned up, this is nothing in comparison to Margaret Scully. Last week the vivacious and confident woman that we met in an almost plunging red dress is all but gone; that is the Margaret of hosting parties and the real version is a lot more reserved and aches for something more. Margaret’s regular clothes are in sharp contrast to what we saw in her introduction as they’re all high necked and muted colors. It’s gorgeous tailoring, but a far cry from the person we met at the party.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Margaret Scully

Margaret has heard about the study through a friend and passion is something that her life is definitely lacking. This is hardly surprising as her husband Barton Scully is keeping his true sexuality hidden and this has left Margaret feeling alone and unfulfilled. Margaret visits in an outfit that could be mistaken for mourning wear aside from the blue flourish below the peplum and on the collar.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Margaret in blueMargaret looks less somber but just as conservative as she answer’s Bill and Virginia’s questions and Allison Janney makes my heart ache in this scene as it dawns upon Margaret that her sexual encounters have been lacking the key factor of pleasure. With each question it gets more apparent that Margaret’s sex life is all but dormant and has been for a long time. As Margaret has never had an orgasm she can’t take part in the study and that makes this scene hurt even more.

The walk from Bill’s office to the elevator is long as she tries to keep it together and hide her embarrassment. It’s a small moment but she does that thing where you repeatedly press an elevator button even though you know it won’t make it get there any quicker. In the brief time before the door shuts Margaret Scully lets out a cry of anguish and never have I before wanted a woman on screen to experience an orgasm as much as I did in this scene. This is part of the reason why a study like this one is so important; to dispel myths (as with the couple last week) and show that pleasure is an important aspect of sex.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Scully dinner

This is the dinner table the Scully’s; there’s a lot of physical space between them and the lack of bright color has a draining effect. Nothing here suggests any kind of spark or passion.

Masters of Sex 1.06 leaving the moviesEarlier in the episode Margaret is reading Peyton Place before she goes to see the movie and she reads Barton a passage that hints at what made this book controversial and also a best seller as it deals with sexual coming of age in a small New England town. The community in Peyton Place has many secrets much like the characters that we are watching here. Margaret silently cries during a passionate kiss and seeing her leave the film with this aching loneliness makes what happens next even more satisfying. I really like the shot above as you can see a solitary man lighting his cigarette as he exits the theater and it feels like an encounter with a stranger could be on the cards.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Margaret and AustinIt’s not a stranger though, it’s Dr. Langham and he has been having his own problems related to his sexual performance. Jane suggested that it is all in his head so therapy might be the solution but he seems just as frustrated with his psychoanalytical treatment (Freud is taking a beating). It’s this conversation that leads to a freeing moment from them both after Austin has made a remark about the glow from other people’s houses seeming like something that can’t be seen from your own house. He thinks it’s a dumb comment but Margaret understands and she senses a connection. I think it’s safe to say that Margaret can now participate in the study.

For more Masters of Sex costuming discussions head here.

Scandal 3.05 Costume Review: Gowns, Sweats and Uniforms

1 Nov

It is the White House Correspondents’ Dinner on Scandal and yet another stunning gown from Olivia Pope. Olivia is caught between not only her father and her sanity, but between two different campaigns as both the Republicans and Democrats vie for her services. As opposed to the huge nine costume changes last week “More Cattle, Less Bull” focuses on fewer looks and we get to see all the sides of Olivia’s style with work wear, fancy gowns and at home attire.

Scandal 3.05 white diorFirst up is Olivia in a white Dior jacket as Olivia interviews for the role of Josie’s (guest star Lisa Kudrow) campaign manager. This is pretty much standard Olivia Pope and it keeps with the image and color palette of Olivia at work; it is essentially Olivia’s uniform.

Scandal 3.05 Olivia and Jake WHCDIt’s easy to see why this Rubin Singer dress has been talked about all week as it’s a show stopper. It’s a really interesting looking gown and the geometric shapes in black and white aid the swagger walk that Kerry Washington has nailed for Olivia. This is Olivia’s entrance to the WHCD and she looks incredible. Jake doesn’t look too bad either in his tux and you can see why she asked him to be her date, even if she does run off to have a secret rendezvous.

Scandal 3.05 hands on hipsIt’s not who Olivia is expecting and she is greeted by Mellie instead, who after getting off one cheap shot asks Olivia to rejoin the Fitz campaign. Olivia is hostile to Mellie at first and the cut of this dress provides a striking visual with Olivia’s long black gloved hands on hips. There’s something a little superhero couture about this pose and hairstyle. It contrasts with Mellie’s J. Mendel burgundy gown  and for once despite her usual manipulations this feels like an honest Mellie.

Scandal 3.05 Mellie and FitzMellie is very good at faking happiness as demonstrated in the photo above and she is every inch the perfect First Lady at this event even with the many jokes about Fitz and his keeping it in his pants problem. Fitz like Jake also suits this look, but Jake wins the prize thanks to his tux having military flourishes.

Scandal 3.05 big hair MellieThe volume of Mellie’s hair might be an indicator of how unhappy she is and how much she is faking it. In this scene it is at an all new high as is the forced smile.

Scandal 3.05 star pinThey’re feeling the heat thanks to the very likable Josie Marcus who manages to sidestep her very own scandal thanks to Olivia – they need to make “We Got Poped” buttons, tees and bumper stickers. At the debate Josie is wearing an American flag pin but with a twist as hers is shaped like a star instead of the standard flag. So who is Olivia going to chose? It seemed like an easy answer thanks to Mellie’s pleas but the news that Jake and Huck have uncovered will make Fitz the less favorable choice. Oh and Huck is totally Team Olake.

Scandal 3.05 basketballThis basketball scene gives both Jake and Fitz fans something to cheer about and gives Fitz something other than a suits to wear (he also gets some pj time later in the episode).

Scandal 3.05 power clashingYou know who loves to wear something fancy? Yep it’s Harrison who gets to lead the team in Montana and he questions Olivia’s judgement later as she hesitates to take Josie’s offer. It feels like conflict could be brewing between Olivia and Harrison. The tie/shirt power clashing is the standard Harrison work attire and we also get a glimpse at his supper snazzy polka dot suspenders too. Abby is once again rocking the leopard print Diane von Furstenberg blouse that she wore last week and I like it when shows like this includes repeat outfits.

Scandal 3.05 SuspendersLooking a little more casual without a tie, Harrison wears another pattern clashing shirt and suspenders combo all while not looking freaked out by the ram skull on the wall behind him. Instead he is giving Abby grief telling her that she’s “got issues.”

Scandal 3.05 Abby old HollywoodThese issues are to do with Abby’s renewed romance with David and it hits a slight bump thanks to Abby lying to David about why she can’t go to the WHCD; it turns out her ex-husband is also attending. They’re still in the early stages of being a couple again and after all the deception it’s easy to see why it causes this issue. It’s ok as Abby turns up to David’s apartment looking very Old Hollywood in this Ralph Lauren gown (with a hint of Julianne Moore) and the pair smooth things over. This mention of Abby’s ex suggests that there is more to come about Abby’s past soon.

Scandal 3.05 Grant for PrezOne of the things I love about dressing up is when you get home and can change into all the comfy clothes. Olivia does this too and thanks to Mellie’s chat she’s totally into the idea of a Fitz re-election campaign and this leads this old campaign tee and digging out a box of memories. This shot is also a hint of what we can expect in terms of the careful placement of objects if they don’t write Kerry Washington’s real life pregnancy into the show.

Masters of Sex 1.05 “Catherine” Review: What You Can’t See

28 Oct

Throughout “Catherine” there are multiple discussions about what you can and can’t influence; how some things can’t be measured by science no matter how hard you try. This starts off in a jovial manner as Bill informs a couple that lying together to get pregnant includes something a little bit extra. It turns into something devastating in the second half of the episode as science and faith don’t provide an easy answer as to why bad things happen. This is probably the strongest Masters of Sex episode so far and we get further insight into what drives Masters (and to a lesser extent Virginia).

Masters of Sex 1.05 Bill and VirginiaThe study has progressed to couples once again and Virginia and Bill have very different ideas of what they need from participants; Virginia believes that attraction despite not being a quantifiable factor needs to be taken into account. In the study there is more equal footing between Virginia and Bill and it’s not just the lab coat as Master’s condescension is limited. Dr Langham proves both of them right when he fails to get an erection for either the woman that he is attracted to or the complete stranger who he rejects. This is one of example of something going wrong for a reason that can’t clearly be defined as Dr Langham claims that this has never happened before (of course) and then he screams at the heavens “Why won’t my dick work?”

Masters of Sex 1.05 Study is back onAs things are going to get substantially heavier I thought we might need this fun shot of Virginia and Bill visiting Dr Langham to tell him the study is back on. Virginia looks thrilled, whereas Masters has his standard professional face on.

Masters of Sex 1.05 JaneAs the study is back on this means the return of Jane (!) and once again she is wearing yellow. This color is all about joy and Dr. Langham is particularly glad that he gets to spend time with her again though random biological (non) movements impact this excitement.

MAsters of Sex 1.05 Jane and EthanJane also gets to point out what an idiot Ethan is being with his treatment of Vivian as she tells him to think about how Vivian feels (this is a novel approach for Ethan when it comes to women). Jane also knows what different color roses means and she helps him because he is clearly clueless and I think that Jane might have dated a lot of Ethan types in the past so she knows how to see through his BS. It’s not quite the J pin she wore a few weeks ago but Jane is wearing yet another fetching broach to brighten up her work wear.

Masters of Sex 1.05 dress shoppingIt’s hard to talk about pregnant Libby shopping for maternity evening gowns with what follows but this scene is important as it shows just how strong the thread of denial is with Master’s mother Essie. It mirrors their conversation from last week when Libby asked Essie about Bill’s father and adds to this notion of self-delusion that Bill brings up later. Libby wonders whether Bill is sleep walking because he is anxious about becoming a father and she wants to know why he slept walked as a child. Essie’s response is rather telling as she recounts that “it was always something darling.” This is clearly not what Bill thinks about his childhood sleep walking adventures. Maternity clothes like the ones that are being modeled for them in this department store is a new concept as Essie describes how when she was pregnant you went away at month five and came back at month ten.

Masters of Sex 1.05 Bill confronts his motherBill has his chance to confront his mother but only after he has completed the hardest surgery of his life – removing his dead child from his wife – and it’s not surprising to see him looking this disheveled with his bow time hanging around his neck. It is a confrontation that has been brewing his whole life as he talks about their combined self delusion and wishful thinking, referring to it as “our sickness.” Bill is normally all about the facts and figures but the sickness he mentions “infects everything, everyone” and isn’t something that science can prove (though therapy could be a real big help). This is probably why Bill has such a strong desire to control everything around him and when he loses this he really doesn’t have the capacity to respond.

We also know that Bill is a man of science and so God doesn’t factor into his process and it’s interesting to hear his mother say “If God wasn’t invented for time like this, then why invent him at all.”

Masters of Sex 1.05 the day afterBill tells Libby they won’t be trying for another baby because they can’t go through this again, but he is also denying Libby any say in the matter. Libby brushes him off and over the last few weeks Libby has become a solid character whose main fault is trying to be the perfect wife and mother. Caitlin Fitzgerald gives a stunning performance as she conveys the heartbreak at losing their baby and she looks so utterly drained the following day as she wraps the coat that is now too big for her around herself. She almost blends into the hospital walls as her pale color costuming palette that is normally a point of light is now a source of sorrow.

Masters of Sex 1.05 Libby and BillIt feels cruel to talk about how radiant Libby looks at the Scully’s party and the color of this gown enhances the horror of the blood that Bill sees when Libby stands up to go to the bathroom. The dress also resembles a wedding cake as it is grand and opulent in design and despite having a life with privilege no amount of money and expertise can prevent something like this from occurring. It’s hard for both Bill and Libby to understand the reasons behind this miscarriage as Bill demands a scientific reason and Libby questions why this has been taken away from them when it was so hard to conceive in the first place.

Masters of Sex 1.05 Vivian and EthanThe shock of blood also features in the Ethan/Vivian relationship as he doesn’t realize that she is a virgin until he sees the blood on the sheets. Ethan plays an interesting role in this episode as he gets himself into as predicament with his bosses daughter (the Provost is encouraging this union). Vivian once again wears pink and this time it has an orange detail to try and show that she isn’t just a young girl. Ethan definitely thought that she was more worldly when it comes to bedroom related matters.

Masters of Sex 1.05 Vivian in pinkAt her parent’s anniversary party she is very much the young girl in her pink dress and pearls.

Masters of Sex 1.05 the ladiesMargaret Scully (Allison Janney!) is in red and as it’s her party it’s her prerogative to stand out and this contrasts with her daughter in youthful pink. In this scene Margaret and Libby are giving Vivian advice with what to do about Ethan, considering the distance that exists between these women and their husbands they might not have all the answers; they tell Vivian that you have to make them love you. Vivian’s declaration to Ethan that they can just have fun seems to work as Ethan tells Virginia later that Vivian is his girlfriend.

Masters of Sex 1.05 Virginia breakdownVirginia’s story is in the background this week as she spends the episode struggling with balancing work and family life; she breaks down in front of Ethan after Henry has almost run away and tells him that her attempts are “not good enough.” Ethan’s motivations with offering to hang out with Henry seem pretty genuine as does his offer of friendship to Virginia, but considering his behavior last week and how obsessed he has been it is hard to fully trust him. I am impressed with how they are developing this character from lovesick jerk to a complex figure that might not be “the worst” as I have said several times on Twitter.

Masters of Sex 1.05 close your eyesWhen you cry like that in front of someone it can be very intimate and Virginia is on the receiving end of an emotionally vulnerable moment as Bill tries not to break down in front of her. This is something that Bill needs to do as he is so tightly wound and he needs to release this emotion. There are still barriers as he makes Virginia close her eyes before he lets out a sound of anguish that is totally devastating as he clutches hold of her hand in his office. Virginia wears dark colors throughout the episode and this red stands out as a sign of her strength and in this moment Masters needs someone to hold onto. Libby tells Virginia about the one time that Bill fell apart (after his father died) and gets to the heart of the matter with Bill wanting to stay in control of everything including how much someone knows him.

This is the second time that Bill infers that it was something non-scientific that made this happen; his negative feelings towards having a child are the thing that caused this. Virginia is the face of reason in this moment as she reminds him that thoughts are not that powerful and sometimes bad things do just happen.

For more Masters of Sex coverage head here.

The Good Wife and Diane Lockhart’s Wardrobe

22 Oct

The Good Wife has a huge episode coming up this Sunday and the tension that has been building is going to explode (the title of the episode is the not so subtle, but still brilliant “Hitting the Fan”). Season 5 has already unleashed one civil war in the halls of Lockhart/Gardner as Diane and Will effectively split up and it felt like watching your formally happy parents getting a divorce. Will’s quiet rage at Diane is nothing in comparison to what the next episode promises and it is Diane that I want to talk about as Christine Baranski delivered another incredible performance as a woman weighing up her past, present and future. Diane also gets to play detective as she puts together the clues that point to Alicia’s exit plan and huge betrayal.

The Good Wife’s costume designer Daniel Lawson has created a strong look for Diane and this episode showcased Diane’s impeccable style with a variety of outfits.

Diane and KurtWe start off “Outside the Bubble” with Diane relaxing with her fiance Kurt McVeigh and by relaxing I mean letting off steam by shooting some guns. Diane’s leisure wear is just as tailored as her work attire, but it has a softer edge. The red of her suede jacket isn’t as intense as the reds that normally feature on The Good Wife as it nearing the orange end of the scale. This also includes wearing jeans and this is probably the closest Diane and Kurt will get to matching outfits. Diane’s hair is still coiffed to perfection and despite her recent work drama she is happy in her personal life; this is a much needed distraction.

Diane EmeraldWhen Diane is pulled back into her old firm thanks to a lawsuit she comes in wearing the most incredible embellished emerald green dress that wouldn’t look out of place in a modern retelling of The Wizard of Oz. It is simply stunning and this might be my favorite Diane outfit of all time (bold statement ahoy). Of course she is also wearing a strong statement necklace because Diane Lockhart has all the best jewelry and the red lipstick compliments the green of the dress.

The Good Wife Diane full length greenHere is a better look at the full length of this dress and in this scene Diane has just confronted Alicia; it is at this point that Diane gets the first hint that Alicia is doing something underhand. The purple that Alicia is wearing is just as strong as Diane’s green and both women stand out in the (not quite decorated) office that is full of muted browns and oranges. Alicia’s jacket is bold in color but simple in design with no embellishments or frills and this adds to the contrasting elements beyond just color as Diane’s dress looks like it has been made out of crystals. As with many scenes in this episode Diane is the one who holds the power, even if she is the one who no longer works in this office.

Diane satin brown shirtDiane changes into something more like her traditional work wear and continues to look pensive; not because of the lawsuit or her exit from Lockhart/Gardner but because something doesn’t sit right with her. This brown shirt is chic and elegant like pretty much everything Diane wears and it mirrors the Lockhart/Gardner color scheme; showing she is still very invested in the future of the firm despite her fallout with Will.

Diane necklaceAnd yes she is wearing yet another amazing statement necklace.

Diane date faceSo many of these shots are of Diane with her best serious face and so I wanted to include one of her smiling, even if this is the scene where she is perhaps the most nervous as she is just about to meet Kurt’s friends for the first time. Missing is the usual statement necklace, broach or pin but her top does have a beautiful embellished neckline and it’s impossible for Diane not to shine. Ok so this evening doesn’t go too well because Kurt’s friends are all young women and Diane questions whether they should be together.

Diane figuring things outBefore Diane’s big Kurt decision she digs a little further into what Alicia is up to and this includes a visit from Sonja Sohn (Kima from The Wire) who we last saw back in season 1 and she inadvertently reveals all to Diane. Diane is using her best Kalinda like investigative skills but before she drops some epic truth bombs on Will she needs to get changed out of this soft nurturing attire into something more badass.

Diane getting marriedDiane dresses all in black for her all important appointment with Kurt and of course Diane was never going to wear white for her wedding. This episode involved a lot of Diane walking with purpose and watching intently and her late arrival is several shades of perfect. This is the kind of outfit you wear for huge life events when your name is Diane Lockhart.

Diane courthouseThe dragonfly pin is something I discussed last week and this is very much part of the Diane look; to take a simple elegant outfit and add something unique.

Diane Stone ColdThis Diane’s stone cold stare and she doesn’t utter a single word to a very nervous sounding Alicia. I’m surprised Alicia’s blood didn’t turn to ice. This look is beyond bitch face.

Diane's decisionI’m writing a lot about this outfit because while the green dress is the flamboyant show piece, this is the pivotal scene and turning point as Diane makes the decision to tell Will what Alicia is planning. I’ve seen this sequence about 10 times now and it is still giving me chills. The framing of the shot above is slightly off kilter which makes this feel horror movie-esque and yesterday during a discussion on Twitter I compared the tension building of this season to Jaws and in this moment Diane is the very scary predator that is about to reveal itself.

An excellent performance from Christine Baranski and this could easily be her Emmy submission episode even if I suspect that next week’s “Hitting the Fan” is going to provide A+ material for all involved.

Masters of Sex: Fantasy, Reality and Confronting the Past

21 Oct

Confronting the past and looking to the future are big themes in Masters of Sex’s puntastic named episode “Thank You For Coming” as we learn more about the past relationships that have shaped both Masters and Johnson. In terms of color and costuming red and pink are repeated throughout this episode offering up different interpretations of sex and love.

Masters of Sex 1.04 Virginia lipstickVirginia spends the episode as the object of desire of three very different men; her ex-husband George, Ethan and Bill Masters himself. Two of these men have experienced the passion with Virginia that one of her signature colors represents, while the other has only his scientific data as an attempt to understand this side of his assistant. Red is one of the colors that Virginia wears with frequency and for her it’s all about passion and strong emotions.

Masters of Sex 1.04 grey dressAnother repeated style point for Virginia is that both her dresses and blouses tend to have bow details around the collar. While the Peter Pan collar is probably a more indicative style from this period, Virginia’s bows show that she is more fashion forward and less traditional than someone like Libby Masters.

Masters of Sex 1.04 Masters and JohnsonVirginia tends to navigate towards darker color and she dresses head to toe in black for the Masters’ dinner party. This might come across as a somber choice for a lighthearted setting. Instead it reflects Virginia’s music club past where dark colors are the norm and not seen as mourning attire.

Masters of Sex 1.04 Virginia in blackHere’s another look at Virginia’s dinner party costuming including the pillbox hat and it is one black veil and some sparkles away from Janet Snakehole territory. There is not much else to say about Virginia’s costume in the photo above, but it is an excellent example of the epic bitch face that she utilizes more than once this week as she has to deal with unwanted advances from both Ethan and her ex-husband George. It’s not surprising that Virginia has perfected this expression with all the shit she has to put up with in her personal life.

Masters of Sex 1.04 red collarVirginia isn’t the only one in black at the dinner party and Masters’ mother Essie adds some flare with a red bow and collar detail with matching red earrings. Conflict arises at this dinner party when Virginia asks for a story about Bill as a child and what his mother perceives to be a cute story is just another painful reminder to Bill that his father was abusive to him. Part of his own concerns about becoming a father is linked to the fear he will repeat the same mistakes.

Masters of Sex 1.04 red and pinkThis is where the color red comes into play once again as Bill’s mother is no longer wearing the black clothes she has favored since his father died four years prior. It is a sign of her independence and she is finally no longer feeling the effects of the strict control of her husband. It is clearly still having a huge impact on Bill and it goes a long way to explain why he is so rigid. It also contrasts with the nurturing pink tones of Libby beautiful maternity clothes in the same scene and Libby represents all that is pure to Bill. This in itself is incredibly problematic and there is no way that Libby can be the perfect wife and mother that Bill expects her to be. At this point the facade is there even if he is developing strong feelings for Libby’s opposite; Virginia. Bill is putting all the women in his life into boxes but he should realize that you can’t reduce a person to a simple list of attributes. There is much that can’t be measured by science and study.

Masters of Sex 1.04 Libby Peter Pan CollarHere is Libby in a Peter Pan collar maternity dress reflecting Libby’s traditional role as wife, host and mother-to-be. While Libby might not be the most interesting character on this show, Caitlin Fitzgerald injects a warmth and charm particularly with her scenes with Virginia and I wonder whether their friendship will withstand Masters’ growing feelings for Virginia.

Masters of Sex 1.04 LibbyThis is the first time that Libby has worn anything dark so far on Masters of Sex and the embellished white collar gives it a touch of femininity and keeps it in line with her other costuming despite the color. Libby is a woman of means and her accessories reflect this; the pearl necklace in the photo above and the fur shawl that we see her wear earlier in the episode. It’s not surprising that Bill’s mother misinterprets her husband’s actions and she is so reductive when it comes to her thoughts on men; she thinks that men run away from regret and disappointment but Bill proves this theory wrong as he attempts to confront his feelings about his father (thanks to a well timed patient), whereas Essie is the one who is running away from her past.

Masters of Sex 1.03 Bill Blue SweaterIt’s a rare sight to see Bill Masters in day wear that doesn’t involve a bow tie or scrubs, so it is a treat to see him in this blue sweater sans bow tie at home. Despite the relaxed nature of his collar, Bill is anything but as he questions why Libby is trying to set up Virginia with Ethan. Bill gets very defensive and he suggests they would be terrible together – something that we as the audience know to be true – it comes across as more than this as he has feelings for Virginia. One thing that did pleasantly surprise me was how Masters’ mother reacted to Virginia’s two divorces; instead of seeing it as a negative she is receptive to Virginia’s family set up.

Masters of Sex 1.04 VivianTalking of Ethan, he is still having a hard time coming to terms with Virginia’s rejection and despite sleeping his way through the hospital staff he still can’t get over her especially as he has put her up on a Technicolor pedestal – Virginia’s daughter Tessa knows what the what is as she instantly takes a dislike to Ethan. Enter Vivian and if Ethan is going to sleep with anyone the daughter of the Provost is probably the last person he should be doing it with. Luckily for him he is saved by a phone call from the hospital (not so lucky for the woman who is labor and has a drunken doctor) and things don’t go too far. Vivian is wearing both pink and red in the seduction scene representing both her innocence and sexuality.

Masters of Sex 1.04 checks and stripesVivian looks incredibly young the next day in her candy striper uniform as Ethan is incredibly sorry for his actions the night before. It turns into a sweet and sad scene and Ethan is clearly a mess. The story that Vivian tells of Ethan’s kindness at her Sweet 16 contrast with what we have seen of him so far and I wonder if we will see more of this good person that she describes. Ethan doesn’t even remember this interaction when he first meets her earlier in the episode and he’s worried that she is another forgotten woman that he has slept with. It is entirely possible that he is just as self-centered as he first appeared but this episode shows more character growth for Ethan than the previous three episodes combined. I also really like the contrasting pattern with Vivian’s stripes and Ethan’s check shirt.

Masters of Sex 1.04 Virginia lab coatCircling back to Virginia (and her well practiced disdain face) I posed the question last week about Virginia and the lab coat – whether she would carry on wearing it when the study moved from the brothel back to the hospital and I am glad to see that she is. This puts her on the same level as Bill during their out of hours study even if he is the only one of the pair that has an MD.

Masters of Sex 1.04 Virginia redMore red for Virginia as she looks on at her ex-husband George with another silent expression of WTF as George turns up as a volunteer for the study. Virginia has already expressed how she is barely keeping everything together and it is the wistful notion that Virginia is magical that backs up Mama Masters’ assertion that men are running towards pleasure; these men don’t see Virginia’s personal struggle just the ecstasy that they might feel when they are in her presence.

For more Masters of Sex coverage head here.

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