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The Wish List: Tigers and Butterflies on Brooklyn Nine-Nine

30 Apr

Brooklyn Nine-Nine is back and so is the TV Ate My Wardrobe all things Gina love. This week’s Wish List is animal themed and Gina is joined by her drinking bestie Amy – Gina might try and deny this in front of other people but it is true – in costumes to covet.

First up and skipping to the end of “AC/DC” is Gina’s hangover outfit starting with the Torn by Ronny Kobo ‘Amira’ crop top featuring tigers. Spring is here so it is time to dig out playful prints like these. For the added morning after look add a sweater slung over your shoulders and large sunglasses that may or may not have been bought for $200 from a bodega (this cost covers two pairs and a Scarface hoodie).

B99 2.20 GinaHere is a clearer look at the top and matching skirt (the skirt does not appear to be listed anywhere for some reason, which is a shame as it is very cute):

Amira crop top and skirtEarlier in the episode, Amy also turns to a nature theme in this pajama style Equipment ‘Adalyn’ butterfly blouse.

B99 2.20 amy butterfly blouseAlthough I think I prefer the sleeves rolled up styling the model is sporting.

Equipment blouseAn episode that follows Amy and Gina on a night out when things get this messy is definitely something I need in my life. Make it happen, Brooklyn Nine-Nine.

Femininity, Menswear and Pattern on Mad Men

13 Apr

It’s May 1970 on Mad Men and the message is that some things change, some stay the same. Don’s penchant for brunettes in pain is one staple you can rely on and “New Business” opens with the exception to this rule. Yes Betty has been in pain, but she is never going to admit it and now she’s going to be studying psychology. Betty is smart remember (“I speak Italian“) and there’s part of me that would love her to be my therapist. No, really.

The tableau Don looks upon is the family he once had and he can’t go home as this family has moved on. So has Betty’s style as there is a softness here with frills and pattern.

Mad Men 7.09 Betty kitchen“New Business” showcases the women of Don Draper including Megan as she is in town to finalize their divorce and get the rest of her things from the apartment. Megan is as stylish as she has ever been doing Cali cool in a hoodie peasant blouse and flared jeans looking nothing like her more traditionally dressed mother and sister.

Mad Men 7.09 MeganFor her meeting with Harry, Megan dresses up in her “Welcome to LA” blue baby doll number prompting Harry to call her every man’s fantasy and that she looks like Ali MacGraw and Bridget Bardot had a baby. Harry does what Harry does and is the worst by hitting on her and then running to Don to call Megan crazy. Megan is incredibly fashion forward so it is strange to see her wearing something from a year ago, but it is obviously a look she feels confident in despite her lack of good acting fortune recently.

Mad Men 7.09 Megan and HarryPast and present collide for Don with elevator awkwardness and I don’t think Arnold would be cracking so many jokes if he knew what his wife Sylvia, had done with Don. Here we see sadness through the prism of the wealthy and the not so financially secure as Di has nowhere near the amount of money, but just as much pain. Di remarks to Don that he can’t know the amount of heartbreak and boy he should dish out the Dick Whitman routine. Don later gives Megan $1 million dollars and the feeling of ennui can’t be cure by money alone and there’s a whole lot of dissatisfaction running throughout this show.

Mad Men 7.09 awkward elevatorAnnie Hall before Annie Hall and celebrity photograph Pima Ryan sashays in with all her sexuality and confidence in a range of amazing tailored menswear. Pima seduces Stan after he is rude and abrupt when he first meets her and she tries her hand at Peggy delivering the super cheesy ‘I want to photograph you’ line. Mimi Rogers is incredible in this role as she plays Stan and Peggy sees through the hustle. On both occasions Peggy wears bold colors with strong patterns and while her style isn’t ever going to match the sartorial highs of her colleagues it is definitely improving. Peggy is still in control and showing her femininity at the same time.

Mad Men 7.09 Peggy and Pima

Mad Men 7.09 Pima and PeggyAnd because I can’t resist Pete Campbell in sportswear I will leave you with this beauty to round things off.

Mad Men 7.09 Pete and DonFrom these first two episodes alone I am so happy to see what Janie Bryant has already managed to do with the end of 60s fashion with a push into my favorite clothing decade.

Repeating the Cycle on The Good Wife

13 Apr

Alicia Florrick has tried to break the mold in how she ran her campaign on The Good Wife including not going negative and up to now she has managed to win by using this slightly unconventional method. This all ends in “Winning Ugly” as she tries to go against the system and prove she won this race fairly. What she finds out is you can only be so much of a political outlier and the needs of the party far outweigh those of the individual. And for all Alias viewers you know you should be cautious if Ron Rifkin is representing you; the Arvin Sloane backstabbing is to be expected and here he replaces Rambaldi with the Democratic Party. Less prophecies and fancy devices involved.

The Good Wife 6.19 Winning UglyThere is a sense of déjà vu in the goings on at the firm thanks to Kalinda’s tampering with evidence in Cary’s case and now they are back in a similar position with Diane facing jail time unless she testifies against Bishop. Now they have Finn in their corner rather than opposing them, but even he can’t find something to get out of this hole despite his best efforts and the magnificent use of the word ‘exquisite.’ The judge remarks how there has been more remakes of this case than Spider-Man as they are back in the same position we left them in earlier this season. One thing this does is give Kalinda, Cary and Diane a storyline with purpose as ever since Cary was cleared they have been in plot limbo; the somewhat manufactured conflict with Alicia and babysitting Bishop’s son has been far from compelling. Cary has particularly suffered since he has been released in terms of being insignificant and while I don’t want to see him putting himself in a dangerous position with Bishop it is better than standing still.

Diane’s statement jewelry was missing for most the episode as she stuck to bold jackets and simple dresses. There weren’t even any brooches in sight. The black and white jacket she wore when admitting the evidence she submitted had been falsified is chaotic and distracting; the symbolism extends to the blurring of right and wrong in this instance.

the Good Wife 6.19 Diane black and whiteLater on in court Diane has her trust chunky chain necklace on, but she’s paired it with a pale pink blazer and this is a very un-Diane Lockhart color. Cary delivers such an excellent WTF squint here.

The Good Wife 6.19 Cary and DianeThe recent email hack has led to division at the firm and something as monumental as this could fracture matters further. At the moment everyone is in protection mode with Cary and Kalinda both positioning themselves in a manner suggesting they will sacrifice themselves (remember Archie Panjabi is leaving at the end of the season). This tableau mirrors the one from a few weeks ago and instead Finn is now on Diane’s side and Alicia is not present at all; how will she take it when she inevitably returns to work and finds herself on the outside of everything?

the good wife 6.19 officeReturn she must as Alicia’s winning dream has crashed and burned; her attempt at winning in a fair and just manner has failed. The device placed in those machines almost circled back to the voting fraud from Peter’s election, fraud which Will knew about but an investigation that died along with him. Peter was placed in the firing line several times throughout the episode from this moment to the threat that if Alicia didn’t step down then she would be destroyed and Peter could also be collateral. In politics it is all rather utilitarian with decisions made factoring what will be the most beneficial to the party. Alicia is far down that pecking order and so she must be sacrificed.

Alicia winning the race was not a surprise, but it didn’t occur to me during the build-up that she might win and then not get to take the SA position. Chicago politics is full of corruption allegations so it should not have come as a shocker and The Good Wife is all about the twists and turns along the way. Her lawyer, Spencer Randolph appears to be a good guy who Alicia, Marissa and the panel are all enamored with and his betrayal is swift and brutal. As I mentioned in the introduction anyone who watched Alias is familiar with Ron Rifkin playing this kind of character and yet I was still taken back when he went for Alicia’s jugular.

In terms of costuming Alicia flips between her power color of red when they first appear in front of the panel, to dark muted colors and ending on dress/jacket two piece which resembles and apron from the top half (ooh back to the whole wife imagery) and as with Diane’s jacket is rather chaotic in appearance. The smiles in this photo are not representative of how Alicia ends the episode; she steps out of the elevator (!) where her eyes have been brimming with tears and she collapses sobbing into Peter’s arms. After their more than civil chat over wine last week followed by this embrace, this relationship is the best it has been in a long time. All they needed was a political scandal to bring them together.

The Good Wife 6.19 Alicia and EliAt the start of the episode we see Alicia obsessively watching the news as she sits close to the TV alternating by turning the volume down when it goes full negative to turning it up when in her favor. What is important here is Alicia is wearing her sadness sweats and the last time we saw her in this attire was just after Will died and she told Peter their marriage was over except for in name. This is how we know Alicia is in a bad place mentally despite how much of a brave face she puts on. In part because of the fraud allegations, but also because her relationship with Will is playing all over the news and internet and she keeps having to repeat a lie.

The Good Wife 6.19 AliciaEverything is falling apart both for Alicia and at the firm; will they come together in this time of need?

The Americans 3.07 “Walter Taffet” Review: “They Don’t Have a Lot of Choices”

12 Mar

Philip and Elizabeth have been embroiled in a Paige related dance all season so when Elizabeth went ahead and started taking baby steps in pointing their daughter toward who they really are it was never going to go over well with Philip. It is impressive how compelling this story remains considering The Americans has essentially barely budged or moved forward with the Paige problem all season and much like the actual Cold War they are playing with a precarious situation that could tip at any moment; the nuclear issue here is related to the family rather than grand scheme ideology or weapons. Tension continues to build with neither side backing down.

At its heart it is about what a parent wants to do for their child and how they can navigate their differences. So Philip can talk to Stan about this in the broadest of terms describing how he is on opposing side of everything when it comes to parenting decisions with Elizabeth; Stan counters that they are in a better place than him and at this point Philip doesn’t look so sure. Everything is stacking up and some of it is about to come crashing down.

The Americans Walter TaffetFor most relationships admitting you have a child by someone else might cause the already present gulf to grow ever more, in this household it might actually result in bringing them closer together. The Jennings still engage in some very standard arguments resulting from feelings of resentment like who left the empty bottle of aspirin in the medicine cabinet or having the most passive aggressive discussion while getting ready in the morning* and like most relationships trust is a fundamental factor.

*Quick side note regarding some of the nudity on The Americans as it is rare to get such a realistic approach with the naked body that doesn’t lead to or at least hint at sexuality. Here Elizabeth and Philip are essentially having a work related chat as one is getting in the shower while the other is getting out, which of course means the removal of clothes. Oh and they are both mad at each other, also taking any potential sexy business away.

Semantics come into play as when Philip confronts Elizabeth about her Paige field trip and Gregory related revelations she claims that at no point did she lie to Philip, as she had already informed him of her plan to move forward. This is a grey area and she knows it as later on in the middle of the night when Philip gets in from a Martha visit she draws him into her saying “I should have told you about my talk with Paige.” It is not a straight forward apology, but still an admission that he has a right to know. The Philip/Elizabeth confession hour is at its strongest when Philip comes in from whatever asset he has been working and in tiredness it is when they are both at their most emotionally vulnerable state. There is no need for the weed soaked moments of honesty and as he reaches out to Elizabeth to see how awake she is by touching her hair she pulls him into an embrace; earlier on in the evening he pretty much booted her out of the car so he could go to Martha’s and now we’re back at this point of unity.

Despite these huge differences and the distance that lies between how they want to move forward there is still a thread holding them together. Each time they dig a little deeper into how they feel or revealing something about themselves it reinforces this bond. So Philip’s “I have another son” isn’t the devastating confession it might be under other circumstances – particularly as Irene was the breaking up factor in season 1 – and instead leads to more sympathy from Elizabeth towards her husband as she turns to face him in bed. Earlier on she has been talking about Ncgobo waxing lyrical about his stance on getting his children involved in his cause. Philip’s counter is all about choice; Ncgobo and his family are lacking the many choices Paige and Henry have, but what about Mischa Jr? He is involved in the fight in Afghanistan and even though Philip has only just had his existence confirmed – I am still a tiny bit suspicious that Mischa Jr is not real – it gives him a deeply personal connection to this war they are fighting. It is why we see him listening to the news reports on the radio in the laundry room at the start of the episode whereas before he would have openly listened in their bedroom.

Everything is fractured and yet it still doesn’t stop them from performing when called upon so even though they are in a huge fight they are more than capable of playing the roles of super flirty, happy new couple at dinner with Lisa. In the car before and after it is just as icy as the weather. All those years of not actually being in love and faking it really pays off when they are in love and pissed at each other. To escape the bad atmosphere at home Philip goes to Martha’s leaving things in this perpetual state of unresolved tension with Elizabeth, so he kind of deserves the super cold welcome when gets over to his other wife’s apartment.

The Americans 3.07The bug in Gad’s office has been found and Martha reacted as if it had fallen out in front of her. Making a quick exit to go to the bathroom to pull apart the recording device in her bag, she barely held her shit together alternating between teary panic and “I’m going to throw up” panic in equal amounts. Martha’s poker face is pretty terrible; however she manages to escape suspicion at this current point. Will she be able to keep this up in an interview situation?

One thing working in Martha’s favor is that despite her access there is also a certain level of invisibility, which is why going after secretaries makes sense. It is worrying for Philip that instead of letting Clark in on what happened at work she instead does her own mini investigation on him insisting they go over to his place for the first time (lucky his apartment is nice and ready) and not falling for his usual romantic tactics. It is ominous that Martha’s gun makes an appearance and this week Poor Martha takes her crown back from Poor Kimmy. Allison Wright is incredible in her bathroom stall meltdown and with how plays Martha’s new found mistrust of what Clark is asking of her. He passes all the tests with his apartment, but still something is off.

The Americans 3.07 PaigeOne running theme in “Walter Taffet” comes with the offer of takeout food as a peace offering that fails in every instance; Martha is not interested, Paige has already eaten and Henry is out. Takeout is convenient and a luxury, the only person who’s up for sharing with Philip is Stan – considering the horror show combo of toppings I find it hard anyone would want that pizza – and Stan’s kitchen is stocked with a random assortment of not much. Philip has downplayed his activism instead pointing out how other things became important to him and at this point his gesture of pizza in an attempt to be cool dad fails. In a surprising turn and over a nothing special food prep Stan has better luck at engaging with his son Matthew as he talks about his colleague and friend who died last week as they worked undercover with each other; this is the first time Matthew has seemed genuinely in awe of his father and it is a result of hearing about his work. Food wins in the making an impression stakes at dinner with Lisa when Philip as Jack sells his worth by talking about how much he loves exotic cuisine like sushi.

Stan isn’t much of a sharer but he does so with both Philip and Matthew to a degree revealing to Stan that he has some concerns about his overeager colleague; maybe some of his undercover work rubbed off on him as he mentions Agent Aderholt’s race even though that isn’t really pertinent to the story.

The big mission of the week comes as a result of the intel Hans got and it’s his first time out in the field. Elizabeth is concerned that she hasn’t had enough time with him and when we see him shaking an inhaler I am storing that for things that will probably be important later on. Hans has scored big on his suspicions and he corrects Elizabeth when she thinks Todd has been got to when he was impressionable; this isn’t the case as he is just a “miniature copy” of his privileged and self-centered parents. Once again there is this nod to parents and children following on from the example they have been taught. When Elizabeth talks to Ncgobo he references biting as form of discipline and how Americans don’t discipline like this. Elizabeth is quick to note that she isn’t American and the kitchen cleaning in the middle of the night for Paige last season is perhaps the strongest indicator of this, but still she is constrained by her cover and they don’t know the “badass woman their mum is.”

Playing against the odds is how they operate and nothing is easy on The Americans as kinks tend to happen in any plan. Venter is unsurprisingly tough when Philip grabs him and a scuffle breaks out; Philip has the advantage using the van he knows is coming to incapacitate him and they have their man. That isn’t before Elizabeth has dispatched of an eyewitness in typically cold fashion – remember she did drop a car on a dude’s head a few episodes ago – and now for the next stage of the plan. At first I thought she must be involved somehow, but nope I think Elizabeth was just cleaning up the scene. The kill count now stands at Elizabeth with two and Philip on zero. There are so many angles being worked at the moment and it is a concern that Philip thinks Martha’s cold mood is to with kids rather than everything else he is asking from her. This is the kind of thing Gabriel warned against and even though we didn’t see Kimmy this week that mission is looming over them. Cracks are beginning to form and as we have already seen with Martha something is going to give and it is going to be soon.

Shot of the Week

The Americans 3.07 shot of the weekStan himself, Noah Emmerich directed this week’s episode adding flourishes from the get go as we start outside the house with Philip listening to the news and the camera pans up the house. Just before we kick into the opening credits – I see you hula hooping girl also from Unbreakable Kimmy Schmidt – the scene ends outside once again with Philip and Elizabeth embroiled in another standoff. It is an amazing shot and Emmerich delivers throughout including the way he films Martha’s bathroom meltdown spiraling, the way the bug lands on the desk and the Fleetwood Mac infused action sequence rounding out the episode.

Disguise of the Week

The Americans 3.07 date nightElizabeth wore her best ever wig this week. No it isn’t the Michelle, but the one at the top of the review but I have a feeling the ‘Nancy’ will be on display next week so in the meantime it is time to talk about another blonde with Philip rocking this curly look as charming Jack. Very into Elizabeth’s gold top showing off Michelle’s new found glitzy style.

Outfit I Would Wear in 2015

The Americans 3.07 ElizabethSnow! And Elizabeth’s coat/scarf combo is pretty neutral in knowing what decade it is from. Only the widelegged burgundy pants (which I suspect are velvet) and boots suggest a different period. This is Elizabeth essentially in her travel agency threads and I am impressed she’s not falling over in these heels in this weather. She really is a badass.

 

The 17th Costume Designers Guild Awards

18 Feb

An evening celebrating costume design sounds rather marvelous and the Costume Designers Guild hosted their annual ceremony last night with Shameless star Emmy Rossum as host. Mindy Kaling wore a beautiful custom made gown from Mindy Project costume designer* and president of the guild, Salvador Perez as she did the previous year.

*Several of Mindy’s coats from this season of The Mindy Project are custom Salvador Perez and I would love every single colorful houndstooth creation in my life. 

Mindy Kaling Salvador PerezBig winners include Michele Clapton for Game of Thrones and Jenny Eagan took home the contemporary TV costume design award for True Detective. Harrison Ford presented Aggie Guerard Rodgers with the career achievement accolade – the list of movies she has worked on is long and varied – and academic Dr. Deborah Nadoolman Landis received the inaugural Edith Head Award for the Advancement and Education of the Art of Costume Design. Naomi Watts was presented with the Lacoste Spotlight Award (Amy Adams was last year’s recipient) and Boyhood director Richard Linklater collected the Distinguished Collaborator honorary award.

Here is the full list of nominees with the winners highlighted:

OUTSTANDING CONTEMPORARY TELEVISION SERIES 
House of Cards – Johanna Argan
Ray Donovan – Christopher Lawrence
Saturday Night Live – Tom Broecker, Eric Justian
Scandal – Lyn Paolo
True Detective – Jenny Eagan (Winner)

OUTSTANDING PERIOD/FANTASY TELEVISION SERIES
Boardwalk Empire – John Dunn
Game of Thrones – Michele Clapton (Winner)
The Knick – Ellen Mirojnick
Mad Men – Janie Bryant
Masters of Sex – Ane Crabtree

OUTSTANDING MADE FOR TV MOVIE OR MINI SERIES 
American Horror Story: Freak Show – Lou Eyrich (Winner)
Houdini – Birgit Hutter
The Normal Heart – Daniel Orlandi
Olive Kitteridge – Jenny Eagan
Sherlock – Sarah Arthur

EXCELLENCE IN CONTEMPORARY FILM
Birdman – Albert Wolsky (Winner)
Boyhood – Kari Perkins
Gone Girl – Trish Summerville
Interstellar – Mary Zophres
Wild – Melissa Bruning

EXCELLENCE IN PERIOD FILM
The Grand Budapest Hotel – Milena Canonero (Winner)
The Imitation Game – Sammy Sheldon Differ
Inherent Vice – Mark Bridges
Selma – Ruth E. Carter
The Theory of Everything – Steven Noble

EXCELLENCE IN FANTASY FILM
Guardians of the Galaxy – Alexandra Byrne
The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies – Bob Buck, Ann Maskrey, Richard Taylor
The Hunger Games: Mockingjay, Part 1 – Kurt and Bart
Into the Woods – Colleen Atwood (Winner)
Maleficent – Anna B. Sheppard, Jane Clive

EXCELLENCE IN COMMERCIAL COSTUME DESIGN 
Army ‘Defy Expectations, Villagers’ – Christopher Lawrence (Winner)
Direct TV ‘Less Attractive’, with Rob Lowe – Mindy Le Brock, Jessica Albertson
Dos Equis ‘Most Interesting Man in the World Walks on Fire’ – Julie Vogel
Kia Soul Hamster Commercial Featuring ‘Animals’ – Anette Cseri
Smirnoff ‘The Mixologist’ – Laura Jean Shannon

A few quick thoughts with regards to the some of the winners and while there might not be the same wealth of fantasy on television as with film, the number is still relatively high and some quality work is missing out on getting recognized by the doubling down of period and fantasy in the same category. Game of Thrones would be hard to beat regardless of what category it was in, regardless it might be tome to broaden the number of categories. That is the hardest category for me in terms of picking a winner as all the work on these shows is not only excellent, but we cover several of them in extensive detail here. This is my only real grumble with the TV half of the awards and even when I think American Horror Story is a mess you can always count on the costume design of Lou Eyrich. Jenny Eagan didn’t manage the double and I loved her Olive Kitteridge work, but one out of two is pretty good.

In the film categories it isn’t surprising to see Colleen Atwood win for Into the Woods, although Kurt and Bart’s Mockingjay designs and how they tweaked Effie’s look in every scene is where my love lies. The period category is particularly difficult as all five are incredible in terms of costume design (and you can read my thoughts on the costumes of The Imitation Game here) and Milena Canonero continues her Grand Budapest Hotel winning streak; is the Oscar next? The grungy costuming of Emma Stone in Birdman was one of my favorite aspects of this movie and Birdman continues its award season hot streak with Albert Wolsky taking home the contemporary prize.

And because it is hard to resist a TV mother/daughter reunion here is Mad Men costume designer Janie Bryant with January Jones and Kiernan Shipka at the awards show.

http://instagram.com/p/zOr1YACtHz/?modal=true

 

The Americans Inspired Underwear Range from Costume Designer Jenny Gering

28 Jan

A clothing collection inspired by a show and curated by the costume designer is not an unusual venture as we have seen Mad Men’s Janie Bryant team up with Banana Republic and The Limited has a range from Scandal costume designer Lyn Paulo, which Olivia Pope has also been wearing this season. Even Zooey Deschanel had the Tommy Hilfiger dresses she helped design appear on New Girl. The most recent show/brand offering is something of a more intimate nature as The Americans costume designer Jenny Gering has taken the sexy element of the show she works on and delivered pieces for lingerie retailer Cosabella.

IMG_1157The line which is available from now until February 23 and with prices ranging from $40 to $207.50 is inspired by what Elizabeth Jennings has worn in past episodes (and they might even feature on the show this season). Gering spoke to InStyle about the collection and how “Cosabella is such a good fit for the character because it’s so sort of streamlined and elegant but at the same time it’s sexy, but without being overtly girly.” The time period was also considered but as with the other aspects about the costume design on The Americans it doesn’t scream ’80s cliches.

Here is a look at a few of the items which are available:

Americans BraAmalfi’ soft bra ($84.50 and the matching hotpants are $52.50)

Americans slipTrenta’ slip ($179.50)

Americans underwear

 

Blanquita’ cami and boxers set ($207.50)

There is a delicate balance on The Americans when it comes to how sex is used as both a way for Philip and Elizabeth to navigate their very real feelings for each other and as one of their many tools to get the job done (so to speak). It is a sexy show, but it also deals with very emotional and real consequences of intimacy particularly when it is being used to manipulate. This clothing line is part of the recent trend of costume designers branching out and making their work available to a larger market and here at TV Ate My Wardrobe we of course encourage more ventures like this.

It has also got me thinking about a topic that I haven’t really explored too much and that is how undergarments can serve just as important role as everything else a character wears on both period shows like The AmericansMasters of Sex and Mad Men and contemporary ones like Broad City and You’re the Worst when it comes to looking at costume design.

Nominees Announced for the 17th Costume Designers Guild Awards

8 Jan

The Costume Designers Guild 17th Award nominations have been announced and we are now fully into award season. The awards will take place Tuesday, February  17 and celebrate excellence in costume design across a variety of television, film and commercial categories. The division of categories means it isn’t just period costume that is given a place to shine (as it tends to be with the Oscars or BAFTAs) and some of TV Ate My Wardrobe’s most talked about and revered shows are on the list below.

Cersei Game of Thrones

Here is the full list of nominees:

OUTSTANDING CONTEMPORARY TELEVISION SERIES 
House of Cards – Johanna Argan
Ray Donovan – Christopher Lawrence
Saturday Night Live – Tom Broecker, Eric Justian
Scandal – Lyn Paolo
True Detective – Jenny Eagan

OUTSTANDING PERIOD/FANTASY TELEVISION SERIES
Boardwalk Empire – John Dunn
Game of Thrones – Michele Clapton
The Knick – Ellen Mirojnick
Mad Men – Janie Bryant
Masters of Sex – Ane Crabtree

OUTSTANDING MADE FOR TV MOVIE OR MINI SERIES 
American Horror Story: Freak Show – Lou Eyrich
Houdini – Birgit Hutter
The Normal Heart – Daniel Orlandi
Olive Kitteridge – Jenny Eagan
Sherlock – Sarah Arthur

EXCELLENCE IN CONTEMPORARY FILM
Birdman – Albert Wolsky
Boyhood – Kari Perkins
Gone Girl – Trish Summerville
Interstellar – Mary Zophres
Wild – Melissa Bruning

EXCELLENCE IN PERIOD FILM
The Grand Budapest Hotel – Milena Canonero
The Imitation Game – Sammy Sheldon Differ
Inherent Vice – Mark Bridges
Selma – Ruth E. Carter
The Theory of Everything – Steven Noble

EXCELLENCE IN FANTASY FILM
Guardians of the Galaxy – Alexandra Byrne
The Hobbit: The Battle of the Five Armies – Bob Buck, Ann Maskrey, Richard Taylor
The Hunger Games: Mockingjay, Part 1 – Kurt and Bart
Into the Woods – Colleen Atwood
Maleficent – Anna B. Sheppard, Jane Clive

EXCELLENCE IN COMMERCIAL COSTUME DESIGN 
Army ‘Defy Expectations, Villagers’ – Christopher Lawrence
Direct TV ‘Less Attractive’, with Rob Lowe – Mindy Le Brock, Jessica Albertson
Dos Equis ‘Most Interesting Man in the World Walks on Fire’ – Julie Vogel
Kia Soul Hamster Commercial Featuring ‘Animals’ – Anette Cseri
Smirnoff ‘The Mixologist’ – Laura Jean Shannon

The fantasy/period television category leaps out at me because every single one is outstanding when it comes to costume design (among other things) and the intricate detail that is delivered by these costume designers helps transport the viewer to worlds that have existed in the past or previously on the page. The main disappointment here for me is the absence of The Americans as Jenny Gering creates various personas for Elizabeth and Philip to adopt in their spy disguises while grounding them in their regular American family attire all without screaming “It’s the 80s!”

In terms of the contemporary TV offerings it is Lyn Paolo’s work on Scandal that has not only impacted the way we think about how powerful women dress, but there has even been an affordable clothing line featured on the show and available at The Limited so the audience can have a little bit of Olivia Pope’s style in their life. For this very reason I am disappointed to see Daniel Lawson’s work on The Good Wife missing from the nominees as Alicia Florrick’s work wear is just as striking and Lawson also has his own line (which albeit is not quite as affordable, more splurge levels of purchase).

Salvador Perez’s is the costume designer on a show which features another successful career woman, but Mindy Lahiri’s style is nothing like Olivia Pope or Alicia Florrick; however The Mindy Project is no less deserving and this is another huge omission for me. The same goes for the incredible costumes on The Honourable Woman and Ed Gibbon would be one of my choices for the TV movie/mini-series category. And there is no show that does serial killer tailoring quite like Hannibal; three piece suits and plastic bespoke kill suits shouldn’t go this well together but Christopher Hargadon has done just that. Plus he also does the lady power dressing well from Alana’s bold patterns, Freddie’s court attire to Bedelia’s silk blouses.

Congratulations to Jenny Eagan for the double nomination for True Detective and Olive Kitteridge. If only I could wear Zoe Kazan’s giant frames from the latter and pull them off.

Movie wise I don’t have too much to grumble about and The Imitation Game inspired TV Ate My Wardrobe to dip my toes into film costume design analysis; I have yet to see Inherent Vice and Selma (they are both on my list) but this is a strong category. Yesterday I watched The Theory of Everything and it covers all my 60s/70s dress and knitwear coveting areas and The Grand Budapest Hotel is striking in its heightened realism.

Trish Summerville created some of my favorite costumes in 2013 with The Hunger Games: Catching Fire and her work was no less striking for a contemporary drama for Gone Girl as I’m still thinking about Amy’s black and white collar dress. Kurt and Bart took over from Trish Summerville on The Hunger Games and they showed how Effie can still be super stylish when all she has is drab grey and no wigs to work with.

Congratulations to all the nominees and I look forward to February 17 to see who picks up the awards.

For the nominees and winners from the TV categories at last year’s 16th Costume Designers Guild Awards head here.

The Imitation Game’s Costume Design: What do Code Breakers Wear?

18 Nov

Film costume design analysis is a rare venture for this site (TV is in the title for a reason) and it is not because film doesn’t offer up plenty of talking points; The Imitation Game takes me into my first foray into movie costuming with a look at Sammy Sheldon’s excellent work. The muted tones we come to expect from a production that is set in World War II* are present, however there is actually a lot of color and pattern throughout showing this period as far more than the sepia/earth tones it is often portrayed as featuring an endless stream of. Austerity doesn’t mean a strict uniform of clothes and there are plenty of outfits worn by the women in The Imitation Game that would not look out of place today (someone start an Etsy store for the cardigans featured in this movie please). Some spoilers ahead.

*I would be remiss if I didn’t mention that I have yet to see the TV show Bletchley Park (it’s on my list) and when I do I would love to do a comparison piece between the two.

The Imitation Game Alan TuringAlan Turing’s (Benedict Cumberbatch) introduction to Bletchley is in stark contrast to the man we see in the latter years of his life. A well put together and somewhat clashing tweed suit, Prince of Wales check shirt and Prince of Wales tie complete his interview look when we first meet Alan. The man we see during the later period is not interview ready as a bathrobe is part of his everyday attire and even when he is out in public his clothing is on the rumpled side; he is a broken man and as the narrative weaves between the three time periods (Alan’s schooldays, Bletchely and Manchester in the early 1950s) costuming is an indicator of his mental state and how barbarically he has been treated.

The Imitation GameWhen the first Imitation Game trailer was released the piece most coveted was Joan Clarke’s (Keira Knightley) cardigan, which looks like a code in itself.  This vintage item is one of the many patterns we see throughout the film and it is something Joan wears on more than one occasion (I can’t tell you how much I love it when costumes are repeated). Suit wise the guys all have their own distinctive style and levels of dishevelment are at varying points depending on how futile the code breaking task is at that point. There are a lot of long sleepless nights as they try to crack Enigma and Alan’s lack of tie/jacket/rumpled shirt are all indicators for how terribly it is going.

Imitation GameAlternately Matthew Goode’s Hugh is the most put together of the team, even when things have reached peak awful; the waistcoat and dark blue color sets him apart emphasizing his confident demeanor and alpha status (and as Joan points out that he’s a bit of a cad). Clashing tie/shirt patterns (sometimes in a three-way pattern off with suspenders) is part of the code breaker look with Peter’s (Matthew Beard) sweater vest looking much like Joan’s cardigan as a code of its own making. While some of Joan’s attire would look perfectly fine if worn today and not at all like 1940s dress up, the high waisted trousers and shorter ties worn by the men are very much of this time. Unless Her has predicted the future of male pants fashion. Tweed is very much Alan’s staple jacket choice and they all look like the academics that they are; chosen to be part of this very important top secret mission for their intellect.

The Imitation Game Keira knightleyOne person who isn’t from the academic field is Stewart Menzies (Mark Strong) and the double breasted pinstripe suit jacket has a way of demonstrating that he is a powerful man for a not yet know about organization and one of the key figures in this overall operation. Charles Dance is another commanding office and his military prowess is easy to convey through his uniform, plus he’s Charles Dance so it’s not a hard thing to sell.

The Imitation Game JoanBack to Joan and the main injection of femininity into the film and just because her clothing has a slight frivolous edge (polka dots and later Peter Pan collars) she is still a vital part of the team and Alan’s closest friend at Bletchley. The picnic scene (which I sadly don’t have a photo of) is another strong blue outfit for Joan and it is one you can see on display at Bletchley Park along with various other costumes and props from The Imitation Game. It’s also worth noting that most of Joan and Alan’s emotionally charged scenes occur when Joan is in blue; this is visual reminder of their bond. Joan’s hat game is strong and I’m wondering if this is something that can be pulled off in 2014.

Come award season (which we are currently dipping our toes into) Sammy Sheldon will hopefully be recognized for her excellent work as she has created not just one but three timelines worth of pieces (I haven’t mentioned Alan’s school uniform, but it does an excellent job of showing his traditional education and formative years). As I have already mentioned the pleasant surprise comes from how colorful Joan’s wardrobe is without detracting anything from her intellect or value to the Enigma breaking team. You can wear pretty clothes and still be a genius.

Scandal 4.02 “The State of the Union” Costume Review: Peplum, Plaid and Purple

3 Oct

Last week Olivia ditched the swimwear and beach location for her old Washington D.C. haunts and while there are no white hats in sight just yet (metaphorical or physical), Olivia did put on her white suit to show that she is back and ready to work once again on Scandal. The focus of this week’s Scandal post is once again on the costuming and “The State of the Union” features the first piece from The Limited’s Scandal collection.

One color is repeated throughout the episode with variations of purple being worn by pretty much everyone who isn’t Olivia and burgundy symbolizes a connection between two characters who in the past have shared very little beyond the same surname and a treasure trove of animosity.

Scandal 4.02 The LimitedLet’s start with the an item that’s not going to break the bank; it’s Olivia’s first proper interaction with Fitz this season – yes they were in close proximity last week, but they refrained from any contact – and she is wearing the tweed peplum jacket from The Limited collection. It’s pretty neutral and even though the strains of Olivia and Fitz music plays nothing goes on here except speech advice.

Scandal 4.02 white ArmarniOlivia spends the first half of the episode in her ‘fix it’ uniform wearing a double breasted Armani jacket and her trusty Prada purse. There is a similar looking jacket from The Limited collection that’s probably not equivalent to your entire paycheck. For the full Olivia effect make sure you have your cell phone at the ready to give off good serious face. So many problems to fix. Olivia wears this outfit as she’s settling down with her customary bowl of popcorn and glass of red wine; where is the wine cardigan at this vital time.

Part of Olivia’s pensive phone face is a result of a ‘booty call’ debate with Jake and really who uses this phrase in 2014? Jake is getting a little uppity about everything and there’s a whole standoff about who tells the other what to do. Jake is less fun when he’s being all bratty, but he must be doing something right as Olivia shows up at his hotel room wearing nothing but a coat and pair of knee highs.

Scandal 4.02 joggingCyrus tries to get a rise out of Olivia by telling her that she looks like crap, she knows she doesn’t and even her jogging attire is super polished; courtesy of Lululemon.

Scandal 4.02 AbbyGetting a slight wardrobe overhaul is Abby as her White House threads have sharper, more precise tailoring than her OPA ensembles and now her peplum on the season 4 cast promo shots makes sense. There are still the Abby flourishes like the jewelry and the patterns, they’re just slightly muted now and this stunning Armani diamond print jacket is a clear indicator of how Abby’s style has evolved since she left her last job. Abby’s always gravitated towards a purple palette from wine and burgundy coats to DVF wrap dresses.

Scandal 4.02 matching plaidDitching her leather jacket this week is Quinn and she ends up mirroring Huck’s plaid shirt in Rails, drawing parallels once again between these characters. I might consider it cute if all the face licking hadn’t occurred last season and now Olivia has been made of aware of their torrid love affair – the way Olivia looked at the conference table was an accurate representation of the face I make when I think of the shenanigans that went on with these two.

Scandal 4.02 Fitz and MellieBeginning the episode as she spent all of last week is Mellie in her bathrobe and Uggs. There’s also a big plate of chicken and not giving any fucks about what the media think of her attitude/mental state. I doubt Mellie is picking out Fitz’s ties at the moment, but it is worth noting that the one he is wearing in this scene matches the burgundy of her bathrobe; despite Mellie not wanting to do as Fitz asks there is a level of intimacy between this pair unlike anything we have seen before.

Scandal 4.02 MellieMellie does end up at the State of the Union (thanks to the lack of sugar coating from Abby’s) wearing her power color of red – she wanted to wear blue, but that’s what Lisa Elliot is wearing – and while she manages to keep it together in front of the cameras in private she throws off her shoes and rips her pearls from her neck collapsing in devastating sobs. Bellamy Young is giving a tour de force performance as the grieving mother and there’s no solace in the clothes that in the past have acted as armor.

Masters of Sex 2.12 “The Revolution will not be Televised” Review: Leap of Faith

29 Sep

The first season of Masters of Sex ended in an unlikely rom-com fashion; boy stands in the rain telling girl how much he needs her. This year the new President of the United States closes out the episode making grand statements. Using the Kennedy 1960 election victory and inauguration marks a time for great hope and the promise of change as witnessed by the reactions to his speech and victory – while we don’t find out how any of these characters voted there is a sense of wonder at his election – there are tears and smiles at what might be, plus shock at the lack of top hat. There is a new guard in town and he is ditching with tradition. The same could be said for the pioneering work of Masters and Johnson, however this is not their time to stand in the spotlight as there is still much work that needs to be done and Bill is no longer fearful of their rival after he reads how unsubstantial Dr. Kaufman’s work is.

At the heart of “The Revolution will not be Televised” is an examination of compromise and trust; two of the cornerstones of a successful relationship. Taking a leap of faith can require both so what happens when Bill makes a huge decision and sets the wheels in motion before he consults Virginia? Bad things that’s what and while on the surface everything between Bill and Virginia at the end of the season is in a good place, this sabotage and its impact on Virginia’s personal life is going to loom large as a point of potential conflict.

Masters of Sex 2.12 Bill and VirginiaThis finale covers a lot of ground both in time (from November 1960- January 1961) and story. This has been true of the entire second season and at times episodes have felt overstuffed with how many different plot points and social issues they attempt to cover. This finale was mostly successful in addressing the major storylines of the second half of this season; Bill’s impotence, Barb and Lester’s dysfunctions, the Flo/Austin dynamic, Libby’s desire to feel part of something and the recent custody battle between Virginia and her ex-husband George.

Starting off as the episode did with Bill’s problem and we see how the pair comes at it from a scientific angle with moments of success and failure; overall it appears this new method is one they can base their line of research on and Bill is cured to an extent. As a team they work incredibly well together on this matter when Bill finally opened himself up and admitted that a) there was an issue that needed addressing and b) he let Virginia see him in this vulnerable state. Intimacy is one thing, but without trust and completely laying yourself bare (both physically and emotionally) only so much can be achieved.

Bill ended last week being cradled by Virginia and this week it is his turn to provide the comforting embrace. Virginia has not been very present at home and after allowing her kids to go on a 6-week trip to Europe with their father George and his new wife Audrey, the question of custody comes up. Back when the divorce papers were drawn up George never signed the custody document and this leaves Virginia wide open to legal proceedings. So for George to have a chance at custody it means an impending smear campaign to show what an unfit mother Virginia is, effectively putting both Virginia and the study on trial. George takes a drink to the face for this threat – which looks so satisfying – and it causes Virginia to spiral.

Masters of Sex 2.12 Libby and VirginiaOne thing Virginia does is contemplate quitting the study all together and rather than discussing this with Bill she instead talks to Libby who also happens to be going through her own crisis. Libby’s response to Virginia’s dilemma is to ask her what she wants for her kids – safety, happiness, that they know they’re loved – and to suggest that maybe what is right for both Virginia and her kids is to let them go for now.

The question of “Can a woman have it all?” in this form is a relatively new idea, but it has clearly existed for a lot longer than the last twenty years and just because the 50s/60s were predicated on this notion of a certain type of family dynamic with the ideal housewife it doesn’t mean women didn’t struggle with this same BS question. Libby mentions how maybe they should look at what their lives are actually like rather than what they thought they would be and this is an extension of her speech to Robert from last week. Libby has been deeply unhappy for a long time and motherhood has not filled the empty void as she expected it would. Instead it left her feeling more alone and the gulf between Libby and Bill has got even wider.

Like George who suspects that Virginia is sleeping with Bill, Libby knows Bill has been having an affair for years and while she doesn’t mention Virginia by name after her reaction to the TV interview last week, Libby has to know it is Virginia. Libby explains to Robert the different stages of her denial about Bill’s affair at first pretending she didn’t know, followed by looking the other way and then focusing on the children. It hasn’t been enough and then she met Robert; she’s not willing to give up on finally feeling. The Libby story has been a bit of a mess this season, but these final two episodes have been rather satisfying in finally seeing Libby experience a connection like this and in how she has articulated both to Robert and Virginia this idea of wanting something more.

Masters of Sex 2.12 John and JackieAnother cornerstone of a successful relationship is communication and this is something Virginia and Bill possess in droves, except when they don’t. Communication is key to overcoming Bill’s boner problem tying in with the Kennedy election victory and in Bill’s dream he gets to play the role of JFK with a ticker tape parade and Virginia in Jackie Kennedy attire. The celebration is cut short by Libby standing in the middle of the road as the wronged woman dressed all in red.

Masters of Sex 2.12 LibbyThe outfit and shot (this episode was directed by Alan Arkin, pulling double duty) are stunning and at this point Libby is both the scarlet and the wronged woman. Is this Bill’s subconscious pointing out that Libby is stepping out on him (and at this moment is recalling her incredible sexual encounter with Robert in the bathroom) or that she is someone who should be considered before he can ride off into the sunset with Virginia?

Both Virginia and Bill neglect to tell the other what they intend to do with Bill killing the TV appearance without telling Virginia about his plan to do so and Virginia doesn’t let Bill know about her George custody issues. Bill gets some much needed advice from an old friend and I definitely cheered when Barton Scully sat down. Barton points out that Bill has a very specific way of blazing ahead and not considering the people he might hurt in the process (as well as himself in the long run). It’s the one man show and focusing on Bill’s terms only that leads to moments like this. Barton talks of letting people in and taking a leap of faith; how even though Margaret left him, by telling her everything has still meant they have been in it together. Bill and Virginia are so in sync in certain ways, but they still have a habit of shutting down when they are at their most vulnerable.

Virginia scoffs at the tissues that are placed in front of her earlier in the episode and she projects this very strong, unbreakable figure and her only moment of teary weakness this season has been to do with Lillian’s illness (*sob*). Lizzy Caplan is exceptional in this episode at conveying the unraveling of Virginia; from the way she answers the phone after she has told her kids about the new arrangement as she sucks back in her anguish and holds it together, to the full on letting it go despair after they have seen their rivals on TV (oh hi Ethan!). There’s also a manic energy when Virginia explains what she thinks is a foolproof plan to get Henry and Tessa back, a plan that would have been better if one of Bill or Virginia had spoken to the other about these matters. I couldn’t quite figure out just why Bill was so insistent about Virginia scrapping this plan other than he knows how much her kids matter, that is until it is revealed who the saboteur is. Oh, Bill.

Masters of Sex 2.12 group shockCostume designer Ane Crabtree and her team have been killing it all season and here’s just one such instance; in the scene above they are watching the Dr Kaufman/Ethan TV piece and I love how in tune everyone in this scene is as they are all wearing something on the grey/blue color spectrum in similar tones from this palette. Even Betty who tends to stand out in a bold ensemble is wearing something more muted and this offers a sense of unity even if there is someone among them *cough* Bill *cough* who “has massively fucked up.” Unlike the first half of the season, the study has a home, even if it is a shaky one at this point.

Masters of Sex 2.12 mirroring colorAnother case of compatible colors with Barb and Lester both in autumnal tones and earlier they even wear matching clothes, well pajamas. There is a certain synchronicity to this pairing and watching their relationship blossom has been incredibly satisfying. Lester uses his passion for film to come to terms with his approach to romance; he doesn’t want the phony Hollywood ideal, instead he wants something passionate but messy like Antonioni. After a discussion with Bill regarding taking sex out of this relationship and how it hasn’t been problematic, it becomes clear that Lester and Barb do want to explore this side and this is how we close out the season. Both Bill and Virginia admit their past failings when treating Lester and Bard – this also in way feels like Bill silently apologizing to Virginia for killing their TV appearance – and they want to start again by really helping them this time. Trust and a leap of faith are both key to this process; they are all in this together as equal partners striving for the same goal.

Masters of Sex 2.12 Barb and LesterHere’s a stunning shot (although rather dark) of Barb and Lester outside the movies talking about Pillow Talk. It might be because of all the Kennedy imagery throughout the episode and a similar hairstyle, but the pink ensemble Barb is wearing is giving me so many Jackie Kennedy feelings.

Masters of Sex 2.12 BettyAnd even though she didn’t have a crazy amount to do in the season finale, I wanted to include this shot of Betty in a beautiful pink cheongsam complete with a stunning butterfly pin as she gets all misty eyed at JFK’s speech. Betty did also pipe up about while she makes fun of Bill’s bow ties, the long one he wore on TV just isn’t him and he should insist on his regular attire. I hope that Betty gets to be more than just the comic relief in the office next season and gets something more substantial like she had at the start of this season.

One story that has been far more miss than hit for me is Austin and Flo. The general tone and direction of their interactions have felt widely out on their own and while this is still the case this week, the gender reversal aspect felt more of a success this week. It turns out that Flo is connected politically and now that Kennedy is in office so is one of her brothers and this is super appealing to Austin. Austin wants to go to the fancy DNC party with Flo and she turns him down explaining by pretty much calling him a dumb blonde. Austin is dumbfounded that he isn’t up to the standards of Flo’s family and this is the most I have enjoyed this pairing all season.

So while Cal-o-Metric has been one of the weakest aspects of this season, there has been a lot more good on Masters of Sex to make up for narrative messiness and at times a lack of clear direction. At the heart is the Bill and Virginia relationship and whenever this has been the focus it has been mesmerizing, which is why “Fight” is such an exceptional episode. Everything to do with Lillian and Virginia’s friendship was a pure knockout and I’m so glad we got to see something this special, even if it was cut short by Lillian’s cancer. There will always be Lilantha. Masters of Sex is an ambitious show and this has been clear by how many different topics it has covered this year and despite not hitting all the marks, it has been a stimulating watching experience and one that will hopefully be a bit more focused in season 3.

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