Tag Archives: costume design

Masters of Sex 1.06 Review: Different Kinds of Therapy

4 Nov

The women of Masters of Sex are doing it for themselves in a variety of ways in an episode that explores several different therapeutic methods. There’s a lot of healing that needs to be done and while this isn’t entirely successful, the study moves forward with leaps and bounds. Costuming patterns are repeated and continue to evolve and this is the first episode in which one of the prominent characters doesn’t wear red. In an episode that sees Virginia taking the reins of the research this may come as a surprise to lose one of her dominant and most powerful costuming color but it shows that Virginia is gaining confidence in her abilities as a vital member of this team.

Masters of Sex ep 6 lectureWe open with Virginia and Jane at a lecture being given by Sigmund Freud’s daughter, Anna and this kickstarts a discussion about Freud’s theory on female orgasms. Virginia is in professional mode and her grey suit mimics the styling of Dr. Lillian DePaul. It’s not as stiff or formal looking as Dr. DePaul’s and Virginia’s natural openness is why so many different people warm to her; she puts people at ease and they feel more comfortable sharing their most private information. Jane’s costuming continues to feature a range of blues and yellows and like Virginia, Jane is warm and approachable. “Brave New World” gives this pairing a chance to shine as friends, colleagues and pioneers.

Masters of Sex 1.06 lunch with JaneVirginia is skeptical when it comes to Freud in part because of what she has personally experienced and she is not alone as Bill has issues with Freud’s theories. Jane is more convinced by his work and part of that is thanks to Freud’s appearance as a photo in his book shows him with a cigar and this apparently indicates his wisdom – sometimes a cigar is just a cigar. Virginia and Jane discuss Freud over lunch and they standout in a cafeteria of white nurse uniforms and dark doctor suits. Jane is once again in one of her primary bold colors.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Libby and JaneOne woman is in a lab coat, the other in a bathrobe but you don’t get a sense of inequality with this pairing and it feels like real teamwork at play. This scene also gives us the line “My clitoris beat my vagina” and that’s going to be hard to top. Masters is away on vacation with Libby which is why it is left to Virginia to debunk Freud’s theories about women and she goes about this task with poise and enthusiasm.

Masters of Sex 1.06 phone callSomething has shifted between Virginia and Bill since his breakdown at the end of last week and even though he is surprised to hear that she is ringing from his office – and yes she lies about sitting in his chair, people are very fussy about their chairs – there is a new found trust and respect. This is why Bill doesn’t respond well to Dr. DePaul’s complaints that people mistake Virginia for a doctor when she doesn’t have the qualifications. This is a reverse of the conversation that Virginia had with Bill a few weeks ago when he listed his own credentials and experience as a reason why she is the one who has to get the laundry.

Masters of Sex 1.06 a new titleThe shot above is Virginia’s reaction to the news that she has a new job title; she is no longer Bill’s secretary, she is now a researcher. This calls into mind another conversation that occurred in the same episode as the laundry discussion when Virginia referred to herself as an assistant rather than a secretary to Betty. Is there a difference in these titles? Well, yes there is and it sets Virginia apart from the other women in the secretary pool and it brings to mind Peggy’s promotion in Mad Men. Dr. DePaul believes that Bill is being swayed by Virginia’s looks but if she actually listened to Virginia when she talks about her interest in medical matters she would soon come to realize that Virginia is more than a bit of fluff and she would be a good ally to have. Bill mentions getting a new secretary and I hope that Jane will get this job as she already knows the ins and outs of the study (PHRASING) and she’s an asset to the team. Virginia is in green in this scene and as a color of prosperity it represents the growth of Virginia’s relationship with Bill.

At the end of the episode Virginia takes a step with Bill that she hesitated at in the past; it is a giddy reaction to the data they have collected and a desire to see how much more they can both prove and disprove. It’s a conflicting scene because we know that Virginia is good friends with Libby and up to this point Masters of Sex has carved out two strong female friendships. I hesitate to talk about the future direction of Virginia and Bill’s relationship even if history isn’t really a spoiler but some knowledge of this is informing these scenes as well.

Masters of Sex ep 6 LibbyBill and Libby’s vacation to Miami is an attempt to escape their grief and get away from the elephant in the room that haunts their every conversation at home. Their neighbor has just had a baby and Libby attempts to ignore what has just happened in her own life when she goes to see her. She wraps her pink cardigan around herself as a form of protection and it’s awkward as neither the neighbor nor Libby knows how talk around this matter. This includes pointing out that there is something different about Libby, she’s had a haircut and Libby’s situation is not mentioned. Nobody is at fault during this conversation but it is clear that some time away could be a big help. The loss of this baby shouldn’t be ignored, at the same time people deal with tragedy in a variety of ways and for Libby the healing process requires somewhere else.

Masters of Sex 1.06 FloridaOn vacation they don’t have to be the couple that lost their baby and instead they can be the couple celebrating their wedding anniversary. Bill looks incredibly uncomfortable as often does in social situations like this, but vacation really looks good on Libby. Even if it is a temporary mask for her sorrow.

Masters of sex 1.06 Libby in underwearThe spell is broken pretty quickly despite Libby best attempts to distract Bill; he’s either timing the couple next door having sex or he is on the phone to Virginia discussing research. Libby’s not going to let her new holiday wardrobe go to waste including her swimwear in the shot above – yes I love that it has a matching jacket . She sends Bill packing and decides to stay as this is what she needs. It’s a pretty ballsy move and with each week I like Libby even more.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Libby getting drunkBill’s departure gives Libby the chance to let her hair down and drink some strawberry daiquiris with the older couple from the room next door (it’s Serena’s grandmother Cece from Gossip Girl). Libby’s outfit wouldn’t look out of place back home, aside from the straw sunhat as it’s her standard pink pastel color scheme. Barb’s got a lot more skin on show despite her years on Libby and Libby is drawn to this couple because they are so different to her own experience. Libby comes up with a fake life for herself where she has two children and in this world her husband is dead; her life is still not perfect in this reality but she has children.

Masters of Sex 1.06 drunker LibbyAs the drinks flow Libby gets the name of her imaginary son wrong and things start to spiral. Libby deals with her grief with more denial and she ends up with an unwelcome visitor and a proposition from Maurice. He talks about how his wife is like home, but sometimes you want to travel. Ah, got to love the cheating 101 chat up lines. He claims that Barbs likes to listen, which could of course be true but it’s too much for Libby and she reveals that her husband isn’t dead. This new identity she created momentarily doesn’t really work out and it’s unclear whether this trip has been the therapy Libby thought it could be.

Masters of Sex 1.06 MargaretWhile Libby is pretty buttoned up, this is nothing in comparison to Margaret Scully. Last week the vivacious and confident woman that we met in an almost plunging red dress is all but gone; that is the Margaret of hosting parties and the real version is a lot more reserved and aches for something more. Margaret’s regular clothes are in sharp contrast to what we saw in her introduction as they’re all high necked and muted colors. It’s gorgeous tailoring, but a far cry from the person we met at the party.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Margaret Scully

Margaret has heard about the study through a friend and passion is something that her life is definitely lacking. This is hardly surprising as her husband Barton Scully is keeping his true sexuality hidden and this has left Margaret feeling alone and unfulfilled. Margaret visits in an outfit that could be mistaken for mourning wear aside from the blue flourish below the peplum and on the collar.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Margaret in blueMargaret looks less somber but just as conservative as she answer’s Bill and Virginia’s questions and Allison Janney makes my heart ache in this scene as it dawns upon Margaret that her sexual encounters have been lacking the key factor of pleasure. With each question it gets more apparent that Margaret’s sex life is all but dormant and has been for a long time. As Margaret has never had an orgasm she can’t take part in the study and that makes this scene hurt even more.

The walk from Bill’s office to the elevator is long as she tries to keep it together and hide her embarrassment. It’s a small moment but she does that thing where you repeatedly press an elevator button even though you know it won’t make it get there any quicker. In the brief time before the door shuts Margaret Scully lets out a cry of anguish and never have I before wanted a woman on screen to experience an orgasm as much as I did in this scene. This is part of the reason why a study like this one is so important; to dispel myths (as with the couple last week) and show that pleasure is an important aspect of sex.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Scully dinner

This is the dinner table the Scully’s; there’s a lot of physical space between them and the lack of bright color has a draining effect. Nothing here suggests any kind of spark or passion.

Masters of Sex 1.06 leaving the moviesEarlier in the episode Margaret is reading Peyton Place before she goes to see the movie and she reads Barton a passage that hints at what made this book controversial and also a best seller as it deals with sexual coming of age in a small New England town. The community in Peyton Place has many secrets much like the characters that we are watching here. Margaret silently cries during a passionate kiss and seeing her leave the film with this aching loneliness makes what happens next even more satisfying. I really like the shot above as you can see a solitary man lighting his cigarette as he exits the theater and it feels like an encounter with a stranger could be on the cards.

Masters of Sex 1.06 Margaret and AustinIt’s not a stranger though, it’s Dr. Langham and he has been having his own problems related to his sexual performance. Jane suggested that it is all in his head so therapy might be the solution but he seems just as frustrated with his psychoanalytical treatment (Freud is taking a beating). It’s this conversation that leads to a freeing moment from them both after Austin has made a remark about the glow from other people’s houses seeming like something that can’t be seen from your own house. He thinks it’s a dumb comment but Margaret understands and she senses a connection. I think it’s safe to say that Margaret can now participate in the study.

For more Masters of Sex costuming discussions head here.

Masters of Sex 1.05 “Catherine” Review: What You Can’t See

28 Oct

Throughout “Catherine” there are multiple discussions about what you can and can’t influence; how some things can’t be measured by science no matter how hard you try. This starts off in a jovial manner as Bill informs a couple that lying together to get pregnant includes something a little bit extra. It turns into something devastating in the second half of the episode as science and faith don’t provide an easy answer as to why bad things happen. This is probably the strongest Masters of Sex episode so far and we get further insight into what drives Masters (and to a lesser extent Virginia).

Masters of Sex 1.05 Bill and VirginiaThe study has progressed to couples once again and Virginia and Bill have very different ideas of what they need from participants; Virginia believes that attraction despite not being a quantifiable factor needs to be taken into account. In the study there is more equal footing between Virginia and Bill and it’s not just the lab coat as Master’s condescension is limited. Dr Langham proves both of them right when he fails to get an erection for either the woman that he is attracted to or the complete stranger who he rejects. This is one of example of something going wrong for a reason that can’t clearly be defined as Dr Langham claims that this has never happened before (of course) and then he screams at the heavens “Why won’t my dick work?”

Masters of Sex 1.05 Study is back onAs things are going to get substantially heavier I thought we might need this fun shot of Virginia and Bill visiting Dr Langham to tell him the study is back on. Virginia looks thrilled, whereas Masters has his standard professional face on.

Masters of Sex 1.05 JaneAs the study is back on this means the return of Jane (!) and once again she is wearing yellow. This color is all about joy and Dr. Langham is particularly glad that he gets to spend time with her again though random biological (non) movements impact this excitement.

MAsters of Sex 1.05 Jane and EthanJane also gets to point out what an idiot Ethan is being with his treatment of Vivian as she tells him to think about how Vivian feels (this is a novel approach for Ethan when it comes to women). Jane also knows what different color roses means and she helps him because he is clearly clueless and I think that Jane might have dated a lot of Ethan types in the past so she knows how to see through his BS. It’s not quite the J pin she wore a few weeks ago but Jane is wearing yet another fetching broach to brighten up her work wear.

Masters of Sex 1.05 dress shoppingIt’s hard to talk about pregnant Libby shopping for maternity evening gowns with what follows but this scene is important as it shows just how strong the thread of denial is with Master’s mother Essie. It mirrors their conversation from last week when Libby asked Essie about Bill’s father and adds to this notion of self-delusion that Bill brings up later. Libby wonders whether Bill is sleep walking because he is anxious about becoming a father and she wants to know why he slept walked as a child. Essie’s response is rather telling as she recounts that “it was always something darling.” This is clearly not what Bill thinks about his childhood sleep walking adventures. Maternity clothes like the ones that are being modeled for them in this department store is a new concept as Essie describes how when she was pregnant you went away at month five and came back at month ten.

Masters of Sex 1.05 Bill confronts his motherBill has his chance to confront his mother but only after he has completed the hardest surgery of his life – removing his dead child from his wife – and it’s not surprising to see him looking this disheveled with his bow time hanging around his neck. It is a confrontation that has been brewing his whole life as he talks about their combined self delusion and wishful thinking, referring to it as “our sickness.” Bill is normally all about the facts and figures but the sickness he mentions “infects everything, everyone” and isn’t something that science can prove (though therapy could be a real big help). This is probably why Bill has such a strong desire to control everything around him and when he loses this he really doesn’t have the capacity to respond.

We also know that Bill is a man of science and so God doesn’t factor into his process and it’s interesting to hear his mother say “If God wasn’t invented for time like this, then why invent him at all.”

Masters of Sex 1.05 the day afterBill tells Libby they won’t be trying for another baby because they can’t go through this again, but he is also denying Libby any say in the matter. Libby brushes him off and over the last few weeks Libby has become a solid character whose main fault is trying to be the perfect wife and mother. Caitlin Fitzgerald gives a stunning performance as she conveys the heartbreak at losing their baby and she looks so utterly drained the following day as she wraps the coat that is now too big for her around herself. She almost blends into the hospital walls as her pale color costuming palette that is normally a point of light is now a source of sorrow.

Masters of Sex 1.05 Libby and BillIt feels cruel to talk about how radiant Libby looks at the Scully’s party and the color of this gown enhances the horror of the blood that Bill sees when Libby stands up to go to the bathroom. The dress also resembles a wedding cake as it is grand and opulent in design and despite having a life with privilege no amount of money and expertise can prevent something like this from occurring. It’s hard for both Bill and Libby to understand the reasons behind this miscarriage as Bill demands a scientific reason and Libby questions why this has been taken away from them when it was so hard to conceive in the first place.

Masters of Sex 1.05 Vivian and EthanThe shock of blood also features in the Ethan/Vivian relationship as he doesn’t realize that she is a virgin until he sees the blood on the sheets. Ethan plays an interesting role in this episode as he gets himself into as predicament with his bosses daughter (the Provost is encouraging this union). Vivian once again wears pink and this time it has an orange detail to try and show that she isn’t just a young girl. Ethan definitely thought that she was more worldly when it comes to bedroom related matters.

Masters of Sex 1.05 Vivian in pinkAt her parent’s anniversary party she is very much the young girl in her pink dress and pearls.

Masters of Sex 1.05 the ladiesMargaret Scully (Allison Janney!) is in red and as it’s her party it’s her prerogative to stand out and this contrasts with her daughter in youthful pink. In this scene Margaret and Libby are giving Vivian advice with what to do about Ethan, considering the distance that exists between these women and their husbands they might not have all the answers; they tell Vivian that you have to make them love you. Vivian’s declaration to Ethan that they can just have fun seems to work as Ethan tells Virginia later that Vivian is his girlfriend.

Masters of Sex 1.05 Virginia breakdownVirginia’s story is in the background this week as she spends the episode struggling with balancing work and family life; she breaks down in front of Ethan after Henry has almost run away and tells him that her attempts are “not good enough.” Ethan’s motivations with offering to hang out with Henry seem pretty genuine as does his offer of friendship to Virginia, but considering his behavior last week and how obsessed he has been it is hard to fully trust him. I am impressed with how they are developing this character from lovesick jerk to a complex figure that might not be “the worst” as I have said several times on Twitter.

Masters of Sex 1.05 close your eyesWhen you cry like that in front of someone it can be very intimate and Virginia is on the receiving end of an emotionally vulnerable moment as Bill tries not to break down in front of her. This is something that Bill needs to do as he is so tightly wound and he needs to release this emotion. There are still barriers as he makes Virginia close her eyes before he lets out a sound of anguish that is totally devastating as he clutches hold of her hand in his office. Virginia wears dark colors throughout the episode and this red stands out as a sign of her strength and in this moment Masters needs someone to hold onto. Libby tells Virginia about the one time that Bill fell apart (after his father died) and gets to the heart of the matter with Bill wanting to stay in control of everything including how much someone knows him.

This is the second time that Bill infers that it was something non-scientific that made this happen; his negative feelings towards having a child are the thing that caused this. Virginia is the face of reason in this moment as she reminds him that thoughts are not that powerful and sometimes bad things do just happen.

For more Masters of Sex coverage head here.

Scandal 3.04 Costume Review: Trying to be a Good Girl

27 Oct

On Scandal last week Olivia Pope pretty much wore one outfit and to mix it up in “Say Hello to my Little Friend” there are nine costume changes for Olivia. The rest of Pope & Associates also show off their pattern filled closets and these might need downsizing if their financial troubles continue. So let’s get right to it as Olivia showcases her many white jackets and also throws in some rare patterned pieces.

KERRY WASHINGTON, MELORA HARDIN, PATRICK FABIAN, MICHAEL B. SILVER, DARBY STANCHFIELDOlivia in plaid is unusual even though this beautiful Ralph Lauren coat it sticks to her color palette, especially as Olivia is addressing the press. Olivia is facing a lot of turmoil in her personal life as she tries to ignore the plot her father is involved in and she wants to get back to “being a good girl.” Good girl would suggest the white hat but has Olivia come too far with everything she has done to reclaim that role? This shot also gives a better look at Abby’s wine colored Donna Karan draped cashmere coat that she wore a couple of weeks ago pairing it with another patterned scarf.

Scandal 3.04 Olivia on TVThis is one of the white jackets that Olivia wears in episode 4 and she is appearing on TV to talk trash about the girl that their client is accused of murdering. This is the look I expect from Olivia when she is creating spin to help her client and it is paired with a dark top; the battle between light and dark is a repeated motif this year. It’s hard to tell where Olivia is coming from this season and how much of this is intentional and over at The AV Club Sonia Saraiya addresses the confusing nature of Olivia’s motivations and why certain things feel a bit off.

Scandal 3.04 Olivia off white suitA classic Olivia Pope pant suit as she addresses her new client for the first time in front of the other associates; it’s not the bright white we see later in the episode and is entering grey territory. This reflects Olivia’s already wavering belief in this client as also represented by the plaid of her Ralph Lauren. The rest of the Gladiators in this shot are in their usual attire as Quinn is in the electric blue that has become her color this season, Abby is showing off another gorgeous blouse/pencil skirt combo and Harrison looks as dapper as ever.

Scandal 3.04 another white jacketWhite is Olivia’s uniform of choice and this double breasted white jacket is Olivia fits this description as she meets a potential client for the first time. This scene comes after her discussion with Jake about returning to normalcy so it’s not surprising to see her in something like this.

Scandal 3.04 a whole lot of patternAnother patterned piece with a textured wool blend jacquard Akris jacket showing another slight departure for Olivia as the case against their client gets stronger. Patterns aren’t really Olivia’s thing and the chaos that she is trying to control is showing through her clothing choices.

Scandal 3.04 will work for freePatterns are both Harrison and Abby’s thing as Harrison continues to power clash his tie with his shirt and Abby adds more animal print to her wardrobe with this Diane von Furstenberg leopard print silk blouse. The palazzo pants and Tory Burch leather and chain belt are part of Abby’s big wardrobe update and Lyn Paolo has been killing it with Abby’s styling this season. In this scene they tell Olivia they are willing to work for free and I think we need more backstory from both of them to reinforce this level of devotion.

Scandal 3.04 flirty AbbyMore form Abby’s new look and attitude as she attempts to coax David back on side as she visits him for a maybe lunch in this super sexy belted jacket and as I mentioned in the epic pre-season 3 Scandal chat, David and Abby are the couple I root for and it’s good to have one romantic story on this show that isn’t DRAMA all the time. More of this please to go with Abby’s fabulous new look.

Scandal 3.04 Donna Karan jacketBack to Olivia and another incredible jacket – I’m sure her coat/jacket collection could keep the electricity on at OP&A for a good year. This belted Kimono Donna Karan is stunning and as she tries to coax Jan Levinson from The Office into testifying for her husband she indulges in her favorite beverage. This piece covers the Olivia Pope color spectrum with ash grey, white and black and she shows off her amazing red wine not spilling power that I sadly don’t possess.

Scandal 3.04 white burberryBack to white with Burberry (of course) as the verdict is fast approaching. Olivia is in her armor but she has judged the situation wrong and a killer gets to walk free. I think it’s time for Olivia to question her gut as a judging device. Everything is all messed up.

Scandal 3.04 lounge wearThis of course leads to red win and lounge wear because what else can you do at the end of the day but pound a large glass of wine? I like Jake and I think it’s good to have conflict and obstacles with the central love pairing of this show but I also want to see Olivia without the ball and chain of a love triangle around her neck.

Scandal 3.04 Fitz at the funeralThe same applies for Fitz who I find a lot more watchable when it isn’t purely about Olivia. This is why his scenes at the funeral are interesting as it shows him apart from the political machine that has made him a dishonest figure (though really everyone on this show, aside from maybe David is a giant liar at times). Alas he soon gets dragged back in as Cyrus tells him “I would hate to see your conscience get in the way of your goal.” Oh Cyrus, ever the manipulator. This scene also features a wonderful soundtrack moment with Nina Simone’s “Wild is the Wind” accompanying this excellent and emotive scene.

Scandal 3.04 a tender momentThere’s another moment of honesty with Fitz in this episode and it comes from an unexpected place as he offers Mellie comfort and stands up for her after Cyrus berates her for the big microphone gaffe. Mellie is taken in by this for a second but then storms out; is she worried this is another part of their seemingly endless game of who has the upper hand?

Scandal 3.04 Mellie in pink

Mellie’s mistake (#MelliesBigFatMouth) takes place when she is looking at her most First Lady; wearing nurturing pink and her pearls. It’s a rare mistake and one that calls into question her already waning popularity. This runs parallel to Olivia’s reputation being questioned and shows they have more in common than they like to admit.

Scandal 3.04 definat Mellie in black

Mellie’s outfit choice after this blunder goes for the opposite of what Olivia would suggest as there is no soft color in sight, instead Mellie goes for black lace and her titanium looking pearls. She’s trying to downplay the moment to Cyrus who is having none of her shenanigans. Cyrus also gives out some fashion advice later in the episode as Ethan returns from Montana wearing cowboy boots telling him “We wear shoes, real shoes, thinking man’s shoes.”

Scandal 3.4 Lisa KudrowThis brings me to Scandal’s latest guest star and TV Ate My Wardrobe favorite Lisa Kudrow who only appears on TV screens in this episode wearing both red and blue jackets.

Scandal 3.04 more Kudrow on TVWhile there is not much to talk about regarding her costuming at the moment, she is happy to wear the color of both parties and Congresswoman Josephine Marcus is here to cause some political conflict. Cyrus thinks he has the way to take her down swiftly and regain the female vote but he hasn’t factored in the Olivia Pope and she will come into play next week as Josephine becomes Olivia’s latest client.

This episode pushed the Remington plot forward and introduced a new political foil. While Olivia’s motivations are spotty in places I am glad that we got a more Gladiator centric storyline this week. They could definitely broaden Harrison’s role but I will leave you with his excellent dance moment that almost makes up for his lack of backstory.

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The Good Wife and Diane Lockhart’s Wardrobe

22 Oct

The Good Wife has a huge episode coming up this Sunday and the tension that has been building is going to explode (the title of the episode is the not so subtle, but still brilliant “Hitting the Fan”). Season 5 has already unleashed one civil war in the halls of Lockhart/Gardner as Diane and Will effectively split up and it felt like watching your formally happy parents getting a divorce. Will’s quiet rage at Diane is nothing in comparison to what the next episode promises and it is Diane that I want to talk about as Christine Baranski delivered another incredible performance as a woman weighing up her past, present and future. Diane also gets to play detective as she puts together the clues that point to Alicia’s exit plan and huge betrayal.

The Good Wife’s costume designer Daniel Lawson has created a strong look for Diane and this episode showcased Diane’s impeccable style with a variety of outfits.

Diane and KurtWe start off “Outside the Bubble” with Diane relaxing with her fiance Kurt McVeigh and by relaxing I mean letting off steam by shooting some guns. Diane’s leisure wear is just as tailored as her work attire, but it has a softer edge. The red of her suede jacket isn’t as intense as the reds that normally feature on The Good Wife as it nearing the orange end of the scale. This also includes wearing jeans and this is probably the closest Diane and Kurt will get to matching outfits. Diane’s hair is still coiffed to perfection and despite her recent work drama she is happy in her personal life; this is a much needed distraction.

Diane EmeraldWhen Diane is pulled back into her old firm thanks to a lawsuit she comes in wearing the most incredible embellished emerald green dress that wouldn’t look out of place in a modern retelling of The Wizard of Oz. It is simply stunning and this might be my favorite Diane outfit of all time (bold statement ahoy). Of course she is also wearing a strong statement necklace because Diane Lockhart has all the best jewelry and the red lipstick compliments the green of the dress.

The Good Wife Diane full length greenHere is a better look at the full length of this dress and in this scene Diane has just confronted Alicia; it is at this point that Diane gets the first hint that Alicia is doing something underhand. The purple that Alicia is wearing is just as strong as Diane’s green and both women stand out in the (not quite decorated) office that is full of muted browns and oranges. Alicia’s jacket is bold in color but simple in design with no embellishments or frills and this adds to the contrasting elements beyond just color as Diane’s dress looks like it has been made out of crystals. As with many scenes in this episode Diane is the one who holds the power, even if she is the one who no longer works in this office.

Diane satin brown shirtDiane changes into something more like her traditional work wear and continues to look pensive; not because of the lawsuit or her exit from Lockhart/Gardner but because something doesn’t sit right with her. This brown shirt is chic and elegant like pretty much everything Diane wears and it mirrors the Lockhart/Gardner color scheme; showing she is still very invested in the future of the firm despite her fallout with Will.

Diane necklaceAnd yes she is wearing yet another amazing statement necklace.

Diane date faceSo many of these shots are of Diane with her best serious face and so I wanted to include one of her smiling, even if this is the scene where she is perhaps the most nervous as she is just about to meet Kurt’s friends for the first time. Missing is the usual statement necklace, broach or pin but her top does have a beautiful embellished neckline and it’s impossible for Diane not to shine. Ok so this evening doesn’t go too well because Kurt’s friends are all young women and Diane questions whether they should be together.

Diane figuring things outBefore Diane’s big Kurt decision she digs a little further into what Alicia is up to and this includes a visit from Sonja Sohn (Kima from The Wire) who we last saw back in season 1 and she inadvertently reveals all to Diane. Diane is using her best Kalinda like investigative skills but before she drops some epic truth bombs on Will she needs to get changed out of this soft nurturing attire into something more badass.

Diane getting marriedDiane dresses all in black for her all important appointment with Kurt and of course Diane was never going to wear white for her wedding. This episode involved a lot of Diane walking with purpose and watching intently and her late arrival is several shades of perfect. This is the kind of outfit you wear for huge life events when your name is Diane Lockhart.

Diane courthouseThe dragonfly pin is something I discussed last week and this is very much part of the Diane look; to take a simple elegant outfit and add something unique.

Diane Stone ColdThis Diane’s stone cold stare and she doesn’t utter a single word to a very nervous sounding Alicia. I’m surprised Alicia’s blood didn’t turn to ice. This look is beyond bitch face.

Diane's decisionI’m writing a lot about this outfit because while the green dress is the flamboyant show piece, this is the pivotal scene and turning point as Diane makes the decision to tell Will what Alicia is planning. I’ve seen this sequence about 10 times now and it is still giving me chills. The framing of the shot above is slightly off kilter which makes this feel horror movie-esque and yesterday during a discussion on Twitter I compared the tension building of this season to Jaws and in this moment Diane is the very scary predator that is about to reveal itself.

An excellent performance from Christine Baranski and this could easily be her Emmy submission episode even if I suspect that next week’s “Hitting the Fan” is going to provide A+ material for all involved.

Nick, Jess and Style Evolution on New Girl

15 Apr

In a recent interview with InStyle magazine New Girl star Zooey Deschanel declared that “People are more affected by how I look and dress myself than I think anyone would care to admit.” Image and how someone is perceived is a construction of many things and in this discussion Deschanel talks about her career progression from being seen as “tough, sardonic, deadpan” in films such as The Good Girl and this changing to “adorable.” Along came New Girl and this evolved into “adorkable” and this tag has been hard to shake thanks to it being used in the marketing of the show. For Deschanel detractors it gives the perfect excuse to talk about the maturity level of her character, but the show and Jess have come a long way from not being able to say the word penis at the start of season one. While a lot of this has been driven by the story, there has also been a subtle shift in some of the costume choices when it comes to Jess.

The bright, bold hues are still on display and there is a girlish quality to a lot of what Jess wears. The dresses are still vintage looking in design and the waist-cinching look is a Jess staple. There have also been plenty of whimsical prints, stripes and a lot of polka dots that also featured in season one, but hemlines have shrunk on certain outfits and the high waisted shorts that Jess loves (and both Nick and Schmidt have raised separate issues with) have made more appearances this year. New Girl’s costume designer Deb McGuire spoke to Entertainment Weekly about this new look for Jess saying “the sexier costumes are due to the storyline, there seems to be more sensuality and sexuality going on.”

NG_ep221-sc8_09C3769Jess has become more confident with her sexuality this season; first there was what started as a casual fling with Sam and now they are exploring the dynamic between Jess and Nick. The chemistry between this pair has been apparent since the start of the show but the writers have wisely allowed their friendship to grow so there is a sexual attraction coupled with emotional depth. So far there has been several hot hook-ups (the first kiss set my twitter feed alight), but now they are at a point where neither character is making a move or expressing how they really feel. Cece called Jess out saying that for two single adults they’re both regressing to 7th grade relationship antics (Jess has also implemented middle school dance rules).

This might be considered as the show taking a step back in terms of character growth as both Nick and Jess have progressed this season, but structurally this emotional obstacle feels necessary to build towards the season finale. Cece’s big truth bomb also helped deflect some of the attention off her own relationship fears with her upcoming nuptials. The big two romantic dilemmas for the finale are “Will Cece go through with the wedding?” and “Will Nick and Jess admit how they really feel?” Aside from general sitcom conventions that would suggest the answers are “no” and “yes” I’d say that both of these propositions don’t have a clear answer. Whereas last season it seemed clear that Nick wouldn’t move in with Caroline and so the stakes in that finale weren’t high.

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Jess isn’t the only one who has had a slight wardrobe update and Nick Miller has been more than just hoodie this season (ok he’s still worn a lot of hoodies this year). In an attempt to impress Jess on their first date, Nick let Schmidt dress him for the occasion. The desire to dress up could be a reaction to what Jess said in “The Cooler” that “Some basic grooming, Nick, and you’d be smoking hot.” The above photo is proof of this (though I’m all for the hoodie look, see also Cary from The Good Wife). I’d say don’t get used to Nick in a suit, especially after last week’s orange tracksuit but if there is going to be a wedding in the season finale I think we can expect to see Nick in formal wear once again.

One aspect of Jess’ wardrobe that won’t be changing any time soon is her vast collection of pajamas (of which I am very jealous) and this was a point of contention in Jess and Cece’s argument in “Bachelorette Party”. This isn’t the first time that Jess and her pajama wearing ways have been used against her in this way and last season during a raging argument with Nick he yelled “Then throw some dumb pajama outfit on and then tell other people how to live their lives.” So what have the pajamas ever done to anyone? They could be seen as a symbol of this idea of Zooey Deschanel and Jess that some people view negatively; all of the cute/adorable/quirky qualities that have caused detractors to roll their eyes at this show. Or they could just be pajamas.

New Girl returns Tuesday, April 30 on Fox.

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